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Author Topic:   Nonskid Paint
rsgwynn1 posted 11-18-2003 11:56 PM ET (US)   Profile for rsgwynn1   Send Email to rsgwynn1  
Has anyone had experience with nonskid paint? I am restoring an old 14' McKee Craft and am afraid that if I simply paint the floor all of the nonskid pattern will be covered.
wayne baker posted 11-19-2003 07:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for wayne baker  Send Email to wayne baker     
I have painted two boats,I am not an expert. I painted a 14 foot Mckee several years ago using easypoxy paint. I painted the inside with the bikini blue. The boat was in rough shape as a crabber had spent many years slideing traps around in the floor. The areas where the nonskid was ok turned out fine after painting. The area where the non skid was worn away was slick as owl poop after painting. I ended up puting down boat carpet.
For my next adventure I found a 15 foot whaler. This boat too had not been loved over the years. It had what I belive to have been two previous paint jobs,and not very good ones. I sanded the boat down to the gell coat to begin my prep work. The floor of this baot did have paint filling the non skid. I belive it may have been rolled on and probably to thick or too many caots. I sanded the floor smooth and applied the non skid that was recomended with the awl grip paint I used on this boat.
The long and the short of it is I belive if you spray nice thin coats of paint you will not have a problem if the non skid is in good shape. I am sure other opinions will follow. Good luck.
coleman posted 11-19-2003 08:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for coleman  Send Email to coleman     
Check out DURABAK on the internet. Best and most durable paint-on non-skid I've found. Can be applied painted on sections or as a waterproof coating. Many color options.
alkar posted 11-19-2003 11:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
I used Line-X, a Durabak-like bedliner material, to cover/replace all my non-skid sections. Photos and details are available at:

Many marine paints, including Awlgrip, are available with non-skid additives. Many of them are effective, but none look as nice as your factory non-skid did when it was new. If you can repair your floor without painting it that would be your best choice.

I have used Awlgrip and I am impressed with it's performance. I am also very impressed with the Line-X, which has been holding up very well on my deck & gunwales, in the holds, and on the keel (applied as a keel guard).

Original is best, but if you can't restore it, the above products are a good second choice.

rsgwynn1 posted 11-22-2003 02:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for rsgwynn1  Send Email to rsgwynn1     
Thanks. This is an old (1979) boat that I bought for almost nothing. I've patched up several dozen screw holes in the topside, and I think one of the non-skids mentioned here should do a good job covering up all of the dings in the gelcoat. The Durabak looks impressive but is pretty pricey. I used UrethanePlus in painting the hull, and it came out looking pretty good. I'm more concerned with utility and safety than in restoring this one to its original condition. I'm going with all white (even though that blue interior has its qualities) so everything will match the white center console I've replaced the side console with.
dfmcintyre posted 11-22-2003 05:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
When I renovated my old 21' Outrage, there were a number of patches and the floor we had cut open in some spots to make sure there was no internal water (there was in the stern, which caused the transom to dry rot, but that is another story), so we had to do something about the floor.

What an old boat restorer suggested worked out great:

After spraying the hull, we taped off the floor sprayed it and then threw a light coating of sandblasting sand onto the wet paint. Let dry and vacumn up the residue that didn't stick. then shot another coat of paint over it to seal the sand in. Came out looking like a factory job (although not the Whaler non-skid)

I did the same when I fabricated a forward platform out of Baltek and fiberglass but without using a spary gun, just brush and roller.


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