Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Costs for Awlgrip OUTRAGE 25 Interior

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Costs for Awlgrip OUTRAGE 25 Interior
bradenton_whaler posted 11-24-2003 04:51 PM ET (US)   Profile for bradenton_whaler   Send Email to bradenton_whaler  
I'm about to inquire about having the interior of my 25 OR awlgripped this Spring. The hull would likely require the primer in order to fill some of the imperfections from 20 years of wear.

Can anyone give me an idea about costs (having a professional do the work)? The hull is currently stripped of its hardware but still has the engine mounted. I appreciate any useful comparisons.

Thanks.

Frank

where2 posted 11-24-2003 05:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
$10k on the east coast of Florida (Stuart), but it's a little more involved than what you are looking for. This is a complete stripping of hardware, stripping of electricals, repaint from bottom paint to the very top of a 25' Frontier. Repaint of the cleats, rewire all electricals, pull up deck and inspect fuel tank, (fuel tank replacement was additional above the $10k)...

Any way you look, it's cheaper than a new 25' whaler, the depth of the cost for you ought to be quite a bit less than $10k, if you're only doing the top side from the rub-rails in...

bradenton_whaler posted 11-25-2003 03:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for bradenton_whaler  Send Email to bradenton_whaler     
Wow! I was thinking more around 2K to 3K for the topside. I guess I am being little too optomistic.

I've already re-cored all the wood in the two deck plates and am the process of replacing the tanks. (What a trainwreck).

Thanks.

timbaho posted 11-25-2003 04:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for timbaho  Send Email to timbaho     
On a 20' Guardian it took me about a week worth of sanding and using a dremel to open up and then fill in cracks with a good marine filler. $200 worth of Awlgrip and $200 to have it professionaly applied. Certainly not 10K. That sounds excessively high to me, especially having done it mostly myself. Kevin
Abaco posted 11-25-2003 04:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Abaco  Send Email to Abaco     
bradenton_whaler,

$2K - $3K sounds about right as long as you don't contract with a boat yard to do the work. The more prep work you do yourself the lower the price. Materials should run you at least $500.

Good luck.

where2 posted 11-25-2003 05:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
Oh, I know all about the value of doing things myself. Certainly, the more you can do yourself, the less expensive it should be. I was just offering an example of "It's Gotta Be Less Than This...".
alkar posted 11-25-2003 06:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
Out here I would expect that job to less than $2K if you did most of the disassembly and prep yourself.

I brought my 22' Outrage to a yard in Portland after I had done most of the prep work. It cost me about $3500 to have my 22 Outrage primed and Awlgripped inside and out (two colors).

alkar posted 11-25-2003 06:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
p.s. My heavy Honda 115s were on my boat when I dropped it off for painting, so the yard had to do the R & R as part of the job.
bradenton_whaler posted 12-09-2003 03:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for bradenton_whaler  Send Email to bradenton_whaler     
Ouch! just recieved my first quote. $5,200 for the interior and $3,300 for the exterior. This included using an the awlgrip epoxy primer. I'll keep looking.

Has anyone applied the primer themselves? If so, how difficult is it and how much error does it allow you with a brush?

jimh posted 12-09-2003 09:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[Administrative post]
jflots posted 12-15-2003 02:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for jflots  Send Email to jflots     
I've sprayed epoxie primer on an antique truck project over bare metal. Since it's a two-part product it chemically drys instead of air so humidity and temp don't effect it as much. Regular primer doesn't seal, so I applied epoxy first and then sandable primer over it with layers of body work. I was told that if you top coat within so many days you don't have to sand because of the "chemical" bond instead of "mechanical". Not sure if it's true, but it's worth looking into. It's easy to spray and durable, but is very toxic. Not to sound like your Mom but use a paint mask and a ventilated area.
Chesapeake posted 12-19-2003 06:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Shooting the 545 Primer is not a bad chore at all. When it goes down and dries, it leaves a slightly rough surface. The prep pre-primer is what takes the time, though. Awl-grip is such a terrific finish, however, that it telegraphs most structural flaws right through. Hence, you've got to make certain your glass repairs are good or you will see them.
dfmcintyre posted 12-19-2003 08:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
_IF_ you decide on spraying it yourself, I'll expand on what was mentioned by jflots regarding wearing a mask and in a well vented area. He gave some excellent advise:

Most pro shops are using a positive flow mask, i.e. one that has filtered or outside air pumping to it continuously for a reason; the fumes/residue can be extremely harmfull to your lungs. You won't realize there is a problem until damage has been done.

Don

bradenton_whaler posted 12-22-2003 06:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for bradenton_whaler  Send Email to bradenton_whaler     
Thanks guys! I was actually curious if I could paint the primer. I am not experienced with spraying paint. I would feel more comfortable with a good quality brush. I do not want brush marks, etc.
I would hate to spend a lot of time and money on the materials and have the finish product look like I went out and purchased some Five & Dime spray paint and painted my vintage Whaler!
In terms of prep work, how extensive of a job would I have to do with the spider cracks and other stress marks?

Thanks.

Curtis Johnson posted 12-27-2003 06:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for Curtis Johnson  Send Email to Curtis Johnson     
Do you mind explaining more about the tank replacement? Did you do it just because it was older, or was there a noticeable reason? What was the most difficult part? I'm facing that on my GTX, but I don't want to do it if I don't have to. Thanks. I'll do a search for tank replacement.
bradenton_whaler posted 12-31-2003 11:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for bradenton_whaler  Send Email to bradenton_whaler     
The tank replacement was a bear. The hardest part was pulling the two 70 gal tanks out. I have ordered new tanks and hope to have them by the end of the month. I will likely put the tanks back but I do not plan to foam them in. Rather, I will use cypress planks to wedge them into place. I replaced them because they are 20+ years old and I did not want to do a lot of cosmetic repairs without first addressing the mechanical aspects of the vessel.

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.