Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: Restoration Questions|
posted 01-03-2004 08:25 AM ET (US)
I am in the process of restoring a 1970 13' Whaler and have a few questions that I would be interested in feedback on.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to strip the paint from the molded non-skid. I will be spraying the interior with awlgrip. There are several coats of single part epoxy paint which has been striped from the entire interior other than the non-skid area. One thought is to brush on some paint stripper (west marine stuff for fiberglass) and scub it with some scotchbrite pads.
I am replacing the drain tubes in the transom and splash well. The splash well tube was cooper and badly deteriorated. I am also planning on installing some pvc piping in the 3 locker drains as they don't appear to have any tubes. My question is regarding the oarlocks. They don't have any drains and it appears that the foam is exposed. Since I don't plan on rowing this boat wouldn't it be best to remove these, pour in some 2 part foam and glass over? Just for the heck of it I poured some water into the oarloacks and let it sit for a couple days and the water level did not drop so it appears that the foam is not absorbing water.
The norman pins need to be removed and rebedded. The bow pin is bent and very loose. I am having trouble removing them without tearing them up. I have tried covering them with duct tape and using vise grips but the duct tape just turns. Any suggestions on how to remove these without ruining them. I am assuming that they are 2 piece threaded at the ends (female/male) and they are right handed threads.
Last question. I have stripped the anti-fouling paint from the bottom and have a fair amount of surface gelcoat blisters (not through to the laminate). I plan on applying an epoxy barrier coat. I have stripped the gelcoat in areas where the gelcoat was in poor condition. In those areas where the gelcoat is in good condition but there are surface blisters should I take it down to the laminate or fill and fair the areas with thickened apoxy and microballoon filler?
Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This website is an enormous help.
posted 01-03-2004 09:21 AM ET (US)
As far as paint removal, I've had great luck with Soy-gel, from Fran-Mar Chemical (www.franmar.com)
It's very thick and clings well, works VERY SLOWLY, but very thoroughly. There is virtually NO ODOR, and it's non-toxic. Will not burn your skin. Really safe to use. I've used it on several urathanes with great success.
I've used this gel on several Whalers(mahogany areas)with multiple coats of urathane/varnish. I think it will work well with the non-skid, if there's a one-part epoxy.
You cna probably get a sample size from Fran-Mar to try.
I put on a thick layer of gel using a cheap disposable paint brush,(not a foam brush, it slowly dissolves!), then cover the entire area with strips of plastic wrap or "cut open" leaf bags (so it doesn't dry). Let sit for 12-24 hours. Remove the plastic wrap or leaf bags, and roll them up in old newspaper. Scrub and/or powerwash, rinse, and you're done.
I do the majority of the work in my basement, and just can't tolerate Strip-eaze or 5F5, or other volatile strippers.
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