posted 01-17-2004 08:19 PM ET (US)        

Some storage details: My boat is either stored on a 3000 lb Lift or is trailered. Bottom Paint isn't necessary.

What's the deal here? Is there a real difference between Gel Coat and Airplaine Paint? I have personally (and recently) witnessed a freind take down a '67 Corvette to the Fiberglass, and repaint with Airplane Paint. After a full restoration, new leather, new engine, trnasmission, etc.. he was able to re-insure his Vette for $65,000. He even took a hammer to his car to show everyone how strong the paint is, and there wasn't even a scratch.

I'd appreciate your help here.

Thanks,

posted 01-17-2004 11:04 PM ET (US)            

What is "airplane paint"? Is is some sort of catilaized paint?

To my limited knowledge, gell coat is usually only applied in the lay up phase of FRP lay-up. It is the first layer in the mold after the release agent. You usually build in the order of release agent (PVA), gell coat (final finish outside), then layers of glass cloth, mat, and resin.

Most refinish jobs I know are some sort of catilized paint such as "Immron" (Dupont TM), very tough & used on truck bodies. Nasty stuff to spray & breath. Some have Cyanide deritives in them in the uncured state.

Best

WLS

posted 01-18-2004 09:27 PM ET (US)            

I don't know a lot about paint, but I have owned three airplanes and had one repainted. Although durable, "airplane paint" will chip and scratch like any other paint.

From reading this forum, It seems like Awlgrip would be a good choice.

posted 01-18-2004 10:02 PM ET (US)            

Beachpanda, the reason having a boat re-gelcoated is so expensive is the tremeondous amount of labor involved in making it shine. As I'm sure you know, the gelcoat finish of a new boat is sprayed in the mold when the boat is produced. When pulled from the mold, the resulting finish is the shiny apprearance seen on a new boat. But to apply gelcoat to an existing boat, a tremendous amount of sanding, buffing & polishing is required to make the boat look new again. Hence, the big bill.

To each his own, but I think it's crazy to spend massive amounts of money re-gelcoating an old boat. Spot fixing is one thing, but if the whole boat needs refinishing, repaint it with 2 part polyurethane such as Awlgrip. Some people seem to feel that you've somehow ruined an old Whaler by painting it, but the finish that can be achieved with modern 2 part paints is at least as pretty, almost as durable, and lower maintenance, than new gelcoat.

If you own an older fiberglass yacht like a Bertram, Viking, etc., chances are it will be re-finished using a two part polyurethane paint. And no one would consider refinishing an older yacht with new gelcoat, the cost would be astronomical. Yet a high quality polyurethane paint job will increase the value of a classic Bertram significantly, and will certainly not hurt the price.

Hatteras Yachts pulls each yacht from the mold with a shiny gelcoat finish, and immediately paints it with 2 part polyurethane paint before it leaves the factory. This is done because the paint finish is shinier, prettier, and much easier to keep clean than gelcoat. Hatteras has painted all of their boats since they started in te 1960's, and they still do today. Every custom yacht builder (Rybovich, Merrit, Jarrett Bay, Huckins, etc) finishes their new yachts in 2 part polyurethane paint. The idea that a well applied 2 part polyurethane paint job is not worthy of a 20+ year old trailer boat such as a Boston Whaler doesn't make sense to me.

posted 01-21-2004 11:10 PM ET (US)            

tomroe, unlike you, I've never owned an airplane... though as a passenger I've crash landed twice. I can't comment on your experience with Airplane Paint scratching, but my friends paint did NOT scratch. Also, neither the Paint or the Fiberglass had stretch marks after he jumped on it w/ me... and I weigh 290 lbs (our combined weight was nearly 600 lbs). He was also using a 12 lb plumbers hammer when he hit the car and no chips either. Maybe he had many coats of paint applied... I'll ask him, but I think the forum has a concensus that it's a moot point anyhow.

Based upon the comments, and advice of the forum's community, it looks like I'll go with AwlGrip. It just makes more economical sense (or cents).

Thanks,

Allen (aka the Beach Panda)

posted 01-21-2004 11:37 PM ET (US)            

Bottom line... Paint is paint (Sort of)... Some way more expensive then others because of the type of use and labor involved in preparing the surface..

Imron has been a preferred paint for Airplanes for years.. To paint an Aircraft which is made out of aluminum skins, you first have to prepare the aluminum surface... Not cheap here either... I know... I painted (myself) an 1946 antique aluminum skinned aircraft.. I used Imron...

Preparation, Preparation, Preparation.... and then, more Preparation..
This included the wings on this aircraft as they were also aluminum skinned.. We are talking a lot of surface area here with the top and bottom of the wings, stabalizer, rudders (yes 2 rudders) and then of course the entire fuselage...

Was not that much fun preparing, but it turned out beautiful....

Bottom line, use the right paint and preparation for the job.. If you want a cheap job, use cheap paint. If you want a paint that will last, use Imron, Awlgrip, or equivilant, and prepare the surface as recommended..

Good Luck