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Author Topic:   New Johnson 4-stroke "CHECK ENGINE" warning
lakelanier posted 02-02-2004 09:29 AM ET (US)   Profile for lakelanier  
On the maiden voyage of my new Johnson 70 4-stroke, no sooner than I was off the trailer, I got a warning buzzer and CHECK ENGINE light from the system check gauge. The owner's manual for the motor seems to indicate that the only warning lights that should function are the "NO OIL" and "HOT". They make no reference to the "CHECK ENGINE" indicator. I loaded it back up (on the trailer) and plan on taking it back to the shop that rigged it. Anyone have any ideas about what may have caused this ?
NausetBoy posted 02-02-2004 04:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for NausetBoy  Send Email to NausetBoy     
When you picked it up at the shop, did they crank it up for you?
Rock On
lakelanier posted 02-02-2004 05:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for lakelanier    
Yes- We ran it at the shop twice--No alarm. I have learned since my initial post that this motor will store a code that the shop can retrieve with there equipment. Probably monitors ignition and throttle sensors.
Stauter99 posted 02-02-2004 07:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Stauter99  Send Email to Stauter99     
I would take it back to the shop, just as you said.
Rock On
Sal DiMercurio posted 02-02-2004 07:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Bet it's a twisted or kinked fuel line, bad primer bulb [ fuel restriction buzzer, possible vent closed on tank ] or 1/4" of water in your internal fuel filter.
If you have access to a lap top, the correct card to insert, cable to hook up to the engine, you can check these things yourself [ thats the very first things I bought ].
Yes, the tech will know in about 2 seconds after he hooks up his laptop or palm pilot.
lakelanier posted 02-03-2004 09:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for lakelanier    
Thanks Sal. You are probably correct. Between the shop and the lake I filled the tank. I bet I did not open the vent far enough.
Clark Roberts posted 02-03-2004 10:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for Clark Roberts  Send Email to Clark Roberts     
Try disconnecting the negative lead from battery and reconnect after about 5 minutes. This may cause a reset to normal if alarm is false. Worth a try!? I did this several times on my 135 optimax when the check engine light came on and always the alarm went away. Happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
JBCornwell posted 02-03-2004 01:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Hi, Lake Lanier.

You did not mention what code your warning device was beeping. That code is your first diagnostic tool.

With a "Check Engine" light, no fail-safe rpm limiting:

Single beeps: overcharging, regulator or rectifier. This can also be caused by a dual battery setup with a diode network to charge, but not discharge a deep cycle battery.

Three beeps followed by 1 beep: IAC sensor, By-pass air screw adjustment.

Two beeps, repeated: CTP switch.

Three followed by 2: MAP sensor 2, Sensor hose.

Your battery setup may be triggering a false "overcharging" indication.

Another possibility is that it has 20 hours on it already ("Check engine" light and steady beep) and is demanding it's first service. This function can be disabled by opening the kill switch and reclosing it several times with the ignition switch on, but I do not recommend it. Take it to the dealer.

Red sky at night. . .

Bigshot posted 02-03-2004 01:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Actually "remove" both the pos & neg cables and hold them together(yes touch them together) for a minute or so. Should reset your codes. If it comes back, then you DEFINATELY have a problem. I have done this on my cars and it has saved me from the stealership a few times.
lakelanier posted 02-03-2004 02:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for lakelanier    
The warning was a steady beep but it can not be asking for 20 hour service. I took it out of the crate myself. It does not have 20 minutes yet.
lakelanier posted 02-04-2004 07:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for lakelanier    
Turned out to be IAC sensor, By-pass air screw adjustment
jimh posted 02-04-2004 08:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[Changed TOPIC; was something undecipherable--jimh]
scaleplane posted 02-05-2004 10:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for scaleplane  Send Email to scaleplane     
Lots of in-depth guesses. It could be just a faulty guage. When I picked up my new Johnson 40HP two cycle this Summer, it ran fine from the boat ramp to my dock. When I started it up again to take the wife for a ride, the Low Oil light and beeper went off. Eventually the No Oil light joined it. I disconnected the beeper, ran it through the break-in period, and when I took it back to the dealer for winterizing, they determined it was just a bad guage.
lakelanier posted 02-05-2004 12:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for lakelanier    
It was very interesting to learn the extent of the self diagnostic system. I found out that by turning the ignition to the on position(without cranking) a the warning light will blink in long and short pulses a code in that can be looked up on a chart. None of this information is included in the owner’s manual.

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