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Author Topic:   RPS Question
Slippery Eel posted 02-17-2004 08:06 PM ET (US)   Profile for Slippery Eel   Send Email to Slippery Eel  
I am in the process of restoring my RPS and building the lhg 6" lift and have a question. On the RPS there are 2 oval teak blocks that house the SS supports. They then mount to the seat itself. Can anyone tell me if the can be removed from the rocker arms? It looks like they are just pressed in and rotate in the socket but don't seem to want to let go to easily. I don't want to apply too much force and break them. Do they just ride in the holes? Can they be forced out with a hammer? If I run a risk of breaking them I will just refinish in place.

Slippery Eel

greyg8r posted 02-17-2004 08:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for greyg8r    
Eel,

On my 1974 Katama the rods just sit in the holes. They are not attached otherwise.

Richard

Slippery Eel posted 02-17-2004 08:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Slippery Eel  Send Email to Slippery Eel     
Thanks Richard,

My Montauk is a 79 and although I have had the seat apart a few times the swing arms don't seem to want to part from those holes. After 25 years and they must still like each other.

Rick Dewees posted 02-17-2004 08:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick Dewees  Send Email to Rick Dewees     

Don't use the hammer. The ss rods pull out like a tight spring. Once one side is pulled out, the other comes out much easier. You may have some dirt or old varnish in there, but just pull hard and it will come out. Don't worry, it won't break by doing this way. It might with a hammer, though.

Rick

whalersman posted 02-17-2004 10:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalersman  Send Email to whalersman     
I agree with Rick....

Also try holding the two rods together gently while pushing outward with your thumbs against the wood.. If that doesn't work, then try gently pushing the rods apart and pushing the wood out with your thumbs...

The wood can be stubborn but it should slide out...

Joe Kriz

hooter posted 02-18-2004 10:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for hooter    
Did anyone remind you to unscrew the "oval" pieces from the sides of the seat back? These things have always come apart easily for me.
kingfish posted 02-18-2004 10:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
I was thinking the same thing - getting the rocker arms out of those pivot block holes must be pretty near impossible when the blocks are still bolted to the backrest, and it seems to me that if they were persuaded to come out, they would be at least partially sprung. Reach down into the rod holders with a long shank screw driver to release the two screws set into the bottom of the backrest so the rod holders can be removed and out of the way of unbolting the pivot blocks.
Rick Dewees posted 02-18-2004 11:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for Rick Dewees  Send Email to Rick Dewees     

You can take it apart in ten seconds without tools. A single ss tube looks like this from the rear, with the bottom of the tube going under the seat:

[________]

It acts like a spring in attaching to the seat back. You can pull the ends out of the seat like this:

[_______] or [_______]

First do one, then the other. It is quick, easy and the ss tubes will not get 'sprung'. They are very durable. You may need to protect the teak block from scratching by the tube end.

Tom W Clark posted 02-18-2004 12:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
The "oval" pieces in question are called "pivot blocks".

There is no satisfactory way you can remove the pivot blocks from the ends of the pivot frames (stainless steel bars) without first detaching them from the teak seat back and sliding the seat back out from between them.

Once the seat back is removed, the pivot blocks will slide off the ends of the pivot frames. Yes, they can be VERY stubborn, especially if they are still wet. Try wiggling or rocking them back and forth a wee bit to get them started. Once movement is perceptible, they will come off easily.

DO NOT simply bent the pivot frames back in an attempt to pull them out of the pivot blocks while still attached to the seat back.

Slippery Eel posted 02-18-2004 12:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for Slippery Eel  Send Email to Slippery Eel     
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it. Yes I do have the pivot blocks removed from the seat itself. I will try to un-spring the arms.

Slippery

hooter posted 02-18-2004 03:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for hooter    
Rick, no disrespect intended, but Ah've encountered sev'ral RPS's with broken stainless steel rods over the years. In each instance, the break was at the weld, there where the up-right piece joins the horizontal runner that goes under the seat cushion. Your post now gives me a clue as to what could have caused those things to break. Never could figure it out, before. Stainless steel is pretty brittle and those welds have no "give" whatsoever. Better to remove the pivot blocks from the seat back, then remove the rods, and save your "spring" recommendation for your expert trampoline maneuvers:-!
Rick Dewees posted 02-18-2004 04:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Rick Dewees  Send Email to Rick Dewees     
I'll defer to Hooter's experience, wisdom, and mature judgment....although I'm probably older and better looking.
Slippery Eel posted 02-18-2004 05:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for Slippery Eel  Send Email to Slippery Eel     
Thanks to all for the advise. I stared at that thing for an hour last night and never figured it out. That's want makes this forum so valuable. I sucessfully removed the pivot blocks from the ss rails. It turns out that there was some water in on side since I has them hanging from from one side. Its funny that there was water in that side due to the fact that they have been in my heated basement for about 2 months.

Thanks again,

Slippery Eel

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