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Author Topic:   Spotlight or Candlelight?
Wayneman posted 03-20-2004 08:32 PM ET (US)   Profile for Wayneman   Send Email to Wayneman  
Hi all. I am looking for a decent spotlight for my old Nauset. Perusing the usual Boat-US and West Marine catalogues confuses me a little in that one sees lights with anything from 100,000 candle-power to 3 million candle-power. Now come on; how many gazillion-power does one need? What is a good all around not incredibly pricey light for a 16-17 ft boat?
HAPPYJIM posted 03-21-2004 08:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for HAPPYJIM  Send Email to HAPPYJIM     
I bought one from West Marine for around $40.

1,000,000 CP spotlight with a floresent worklight.

It will light up inlet markers 1/4 mile away.

It has 120volt and 12volt charger.

HAPPYJIM posted 03-21-2004 08:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for HAPPYJIM  Send Email to HAPPYJIM     
Make sure you get one made for marine environment. I made the mistake of buying a cheap one that plugs into lighter outlet....used it once and the next time I picked it up it was deader than a doornail and corroded.
Over the LINE posted 03-22-2004 08:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for Over the LINE  Send Email to Over the LINE     
Maybe I'm not looking hard enough, but I have not found a light that will stand up to water. At least not the amount of water you get on a 13'. I have taken to buying the cheap rechargable 1,000,000 candle power, but I only get about six months of use. The batteries and lights seem to hold up but the switches and circuit boards die. Has anyone found a reasonably priced light that survives.
where2 posted 03-22-2004 12:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
Sounds like time to draw the line and overhaul the next one you buy, before you take it in the 13'. A bit of clear silicone caulk to completely cover the circuit board, and replace the soon to be defective switch with something water-proof, and then you'll be down to connector corrosion as the usual problem.

Nothing irks me more than having a new-boater with a 3 million candle power light using it like headlights to drive up the channel. For those guys, I'd like to have a blue light, and a book of citations...

Over the LINE posted 03-22-2004 04:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Over the LINE  Send Email to Over the LINE     

Looked at my last one with thoughts of sealing it myself, after it quit working. Looked like it might work, but I have not done it yet. I was hoping someone would make what I want for a change instead of me having to custom make / modify something.

A new boater with a 3,000,000 candle power spot will really get your blood flowing on a foggy night.

gnr posted 03-22-2004 04:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for gnr  Send Email to gnr     
My Wife bought me a "Great White" spotlight for Christmas about ten years ago.

It is supposed to be completely waterproof including submersion.

This thing has been in the drink a number of times as well as used in the rain and snow and it is still lighting the way just fine.

I don't remember what the "candlepower" is but it lights up the markers from a good distance.

HAPPYJIM posted 03-22-2004 07:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for HAPPYJIM  Send Email to HAPPYJIM     
The one I bought from West Marine is waterproof with rubber covering over the switches and the outlet for charging. I have owned lots of spotlights and this one is good. It is a Vector Sport Spot.
Chuck Tribolet posted 03-22-2004 09:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
FWIW, there's splashproof, there's submersible, and there's
dive lights. I have three dive lights that go in the water,
and another behind the seat of the Montauk as a utility
flashlight. Dive lights are SERIOUSLY sealed. They are good
to 150-300' or more. My personal choice is the Ikelite
mini-C (I've got three). It's not a million candlepower, but
it works every time. They are getting hard to find because
they aren't the latest and greatest, but they still work.
Underwater Kinetics is another good brand, though I don't
like their models where you turn the bezel to turn them
on (bezels should be clamped down, and there should be a
real switch).


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