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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods Fuel Tank for Outrage V-20
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Author | Topic: Fuel Tank for Outrage V-20 |
makksumm |
posted 03-21-2004 02:16 PM ET (US)
What manufacturing company makes the correct belly tanks for an Outrage V20? I just realized I've got a fuel leak and need to replace to sell. Any help would be appreciated. Mike. |
overbrook |
posted 03-21-2004 02:52 PM ET (US)
You can get ahold of these guys- http://www.seamount-mattson.com/ Tom |
jimh |
posted 03-21-2004 06:28 PM ET (US)
If "those guys" made the original tanks it would be news to many of us. As mentioned frequently and in the OEM Sources forum, Florida Marine Tanks produced many aluminum fuel tanks for Boston Whaler. |
overbrook |
posted 03-21-2004 07:33 PM ET (US)
I did'nt realize there was a difference? he said correct- what would the difference be between a properly built tank and an "original" built tank?better aluminum??? just trying to help with a source for a good tank. Tom |
jimh |
posted 03-21-2004 08:13 PM ET (US)
Tom--good point. The term "correct" is rather hopelessly ambiguous. |
overbrook |
posted 03-22-2004 01:31 AM ET (US)
Jim- I hope you did'nt think I was bieng "smart" its just that a fuel tank is a fuel tank with only the qaulity setting them apart from others and I would'nt have suggested this guy if I were'nt at least a little certain of his ability- he custom builds all the tanks to the customers specs or to the manufacturers depending on what you need and the guy was extremely knowlegable when I dealt with him, The thing that I really liked was that he did offer a thicker walled tank - I believe it was 5/32" as apposed to the normal 1/8" for a little extra money and that may buy ya a few extra years.I keep referring to him as "guy" because honestly my memory fails me as to his name-been a while since I dealt with them,just happened to still have him under my favorites list and thought I would pass it along as a possible source. Tom |
jimh |
posted 03-22-2004 08:48 PM ET (US)
Tom--no, I am in total agreement. I read "correct" as OEM, and you read "correct" as "suitable". So I was thinking you were saying the OEM vendor was so and so, but really, on re-reading and seeing the actual wording, you are correct--in a sense--your recommended guy is probably very capable of providing a suitable and proper tank. Actually, thinking about it, that old Outrage was probably made up in Massachusetts, so perhaps FMT was not the supplier. I don't know that we have ever dug up the name of anyone up in the Northeast who made tanks for Boston Whaler. Maybe k2163 has the answer for that, too. |
Buckda |
posted 03-22-2004 09:14PM ET (US)
Dave Related question to this post: Is it more likely for a tank to split/rust through at a weld? Just a few questions ....trying to determine if a thicker material is worth it (steel) or if finding a plastic or other material that does not corrode would be a better option for a replacement. Thoughts? Dave |
Clark Roberts |
posted 03-23-2004 07:40 AM ET (US)
Fla. Marine Tanks @ 16480 NW 48th Ave, Miami, FL 33014 (305--620-9030) makes OEM tanks for older (and newer) Whalers. They have the original Whaler drawings from which they manufacture these tanks. They are aluminum and come painted and with choice of electric level sensor or sight gauge. They are a perfect fit with proper fill and vent pipes. happy Whalin'.. Clark.. Spruce Creek Navy |
Tom W Clark |
posted 03-23-2004 08:54 AM ET (US)
Mike, You don't say what year your Outrage V-20 is, but some of those boats had plastic fuel tanks. I do not know who the manufacturer of the plastic tanks was but I would replace it with an aluminum tank in a heart beat if it were plastic. Clark is correct, Florida Marine Tanks was the OEM of a, if not the, correct aluminum tank for your boat. |
David Jenkins |
posted 03-23-2004 01:12 PM ET (US)
Thank you Clark Roberts! You are an amazing source of valuable information! Tom Clark, I have owned my 1974 Outrage 19 for all of three months so I am still learning about it. But the seller did make a big deal about it having a new fuel tank. However, the new tank is plastic. What problems should I expect? Is this tank so bad that you would recommend pulling it out now and replacing it with an aluminum one? |
David Jenkins |
posted 03-23-2004 01:25 PM ET (US)
I called Florida Marine Tanks and they said that for a 40-gallon aluminum internal tank with all fittings and a fuel-level sensor the price was $345 plus shipping (c. $50). Allow 4 weeks for delivery. On the one hand, I am reluctant to replace a tank that is not leaking. On the other hand, I am about to take the center console and RPS out of the boat and paint the interior. This would be a great time to replace the tank if I was going to replace it.... Tom and Clark, what do you think? PS: maybe someone would be willing to pay $100 for this plastic tank that (I am told) is only one year old? |
Mike Brantley |
posted 03-23-2004 01:48 PM ET (US)
My interest in the subject is purely academic at this point, as I do not own a boat with an internatl fuel tank. But, I do plan to eventually own an Outrage or Guardian model Whaler of some type, so I am curious. Why is it desirable to have an aluminum rather than a plastic internal tank? Does one or the other last longer in this type of installation? Are there other properties that make aluminum more desirable? I'm reading these threads as they pop up, figuring I may be replacing an old internal tank at some point in the next two or three years (unless I go "new" with a Guardian). Thanks -- and sorry for interrupting the thread with my query. |
makksumm |
posted 03-23-2004 01:51 PM ET (US)
Thanks everyone for the information on tanks. Im sorry my post was taken as being vague.. I really didn't mean for anyone to get their undergarments in a bunch. By correct, I was meaning correct size (55-60 gallon belly tank), with fittings in the proper locations and pointing the correct way. Im not a stickler for OEM when a better product could be out there. Thanks again. Mike. |
SS17 |
posted 03-23-2004 02:23 PM ET (US)
As far as plastic vs aluminum: Plastic tanks are used quite a bit now up to about 80 gallons or so. I prefer them since they don't corrode out over time like most aluminum tanks will. One disadvantage is that they do not have baffles in them, so as tanks get over 80 or so, there is too much slosh and aluminum tanks with baffles are used. Grady White uses them up to 82 gallons. I have one on my 208 and have no problems with it, and had a smaller one on my previous boat. Moeller I believe? I hope the one on my Grady lasts as long as I have the boat, because there is no deck access to remove it unless a saw is used. Evidently they are expected to have a long life. The boats with Aluminum tanks all have pre-cut access panels for eventual replacement. |
dfmcintyre |
posted 03-23-2004 06:56 PM ET (US)
Dave - Since I owned a 22 Outrage that had an plastic tank when it was delivered, and then had the factory replace it, I'll give you my recollection of events. I've posted them here before, and will try and be brief: Nothing wrong with the plastic tank, except north of the freeze line, if the boat was stored in an unheated storage facility. The mold release agent didn't allow for the foam to adhere to the tank, and water would accumulate under the tank.....between the bottom of the tank cavity wall and the bottom of the tank. Again, no problem in the south, but the water would freeze and bow up the tank....usually right under the fuel tank sender unit. So you would get a false reading, run out of fuel and when filling the (empty, from being TOWED in, by the way) tank it took about 8 gallons less before overflowing. Drove the factory nuts trying to figure it out from what I recall. Again, factory replacement solved the problem. If you've got a new plastic tank, I'd not give it much thought. Don |
Clark Roberts |
posted 03-23-2004 07:08 PM ET (US)
The old 19'4" and the 21'4" hulls (Outrage/Revenge banana boat style) all had a 40 gallon belly tank (except the early ones.. 1970/71 I believe, which had only above deck saddle tanks) and the Fla Marine Tank/Whaler dwg # and designation is FMT-40-BW. David, seems like a plastic tank would hold up just fine but the post above mentions no baffles on plastic tanks! That tank in your 19 is a long one and baffles are an advantage.. the al tank has two baffles!... happy Whalin... Clark.. SCN |
Tom W Clark |
posted 03-23-2004 10:59 PM ET (US)
David, My comment was directed at the prospect of a 20 year old plastic tank, not a new one. While ceteris paribus, I would prefer an aluminum tank, I think both types have their advantages and disadvantages. I do, however, reject the simplistic argument that plastic does not corrode, therefor it will last forever. |
jimh |
posted 03-26-2004 08:30 AM ET (US)
I have given some idle thought to the notion of using two fuel tanks installed under the gunwales as an alternative or an adjunct to the typical large central fuel tank found in many Boston Whaler boats. There are some pre-made plastic fuel tanks on the market which might be close fits. One advantage would be that the tank fill could be very simple and short. There would be no worry about fuel leaking into the central hull from rotted fill hoses hidden under the deck. If the tank were translucent you could judge its level by eye, so remote tank level gauges would not be needed. If side tanks could hold enough fuel, you could even eliminate the main tank in the central cavity, and, if really ambitious, turn that area into something else, perhaps a storage area. The disadvantage to dual side tanks would seem to be mainly in their possible effect on the boat's roll behavior and trim. Locating the weight of the fuel off of the boat's centerline will certainly change the characteristics of the boat's roll motion. I would assume that the greater distance off-center of the weight would not be an advantage. If the fuel lines were not rigged to drain both tanks simultaneously, then the boat's lateral trim could be affected by unequal weight of fuel in the tanks. |
Clark Roberts |
posted 03-26-2004 11:48 AM ET (US)
I have installed saddle tanks (Tempo 20 gal/18 useable) on each side of my 1979 Revenge 21. These tanks were acquired from Don McIntyre (Thanks again Don) and I had to go into a trance to install due to very tight fit but once in place they are perfect. I kept the aluminum belly tank (40 gals) and all tanks are available for use via a 4 way valve (off/tank1/tank2/tank3) and each tank has its own electric gauge. I cruise at times where there is over 150 miles between available fuel and need the range (a tad over 400 miles). If anyone is interested I will get the part # off the tanks for you. Happy Whalin'... Clark.. Spruce Creek Navy PS> as Jim mentioned above the fill is short/verticle and caps fit on flat gunwhale so no drips inside boat. Each tank is vented forward and overboard...I covered the tanks with pleated vinyl Whaler upholstery to insulate and keep condensation to a minimum. Looks factory stock to the casual observer.. |
LHG |
posted 03-26-2004 02:05 PM ET (US)
The original tank in my 1986 18 outrage, built in Rockland MA, is by Florida Marine Tanks. Still working fine 18 years later, with no leaks or problems. I fill it to the top before winter storage, to avoid interior condensation and subsequent "phase separation" (alcohol in fuel combining with water in fuel/tank forming a highly corrosive liquid at bottom of tank). This happens during prolonged winter storage where there is no movement of boat. |
Chuck Tribolet |
posted 03-26-2004 07:25 PM ET (US)
Clark: 40+20+20=80 gallons, 400 mile range, 5 MPG in an 21? I wish I got that in my Montauk.
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Clark Roberts |
posted 03-26-2004 09:16 PM ET (US)
Chuck, the 21 hull is very efficient and my power is a Merc 115 EFI four stroker. At a steady cruise of 25mph she gets 5.5 mpg. Same hull with previous 135 Optimax got around 5mpg but at a higher cruise speed of about 30mph. Same hull with a 90 Merc 2 stroker was a little less than 3mpg at 25mph. I think I'll try to wear this 4 stroker out before I trade again... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy |
AC |
posted 03-26-2004 10:51 PM ET (US)
Consider this when you replace your tank: I just removed the belly tank from my 1977 Outrage...it is not symetrical! I have no choice but to order a replacement from Fla. Marine Tanks. My hull was made in Rockland. I sure hope Fla. has the dimensions for it or I am in a real pickle. |
Clark Roberts |
posted 03-27-2004 06:15 AM ET (US)
AC, they have the drawing for your tank (FMT-40-BW) and will custom fabricate a new one for a perfect fit! You can specify either the sight gauge (mechanical) fuel level sender or the electrical level sender for a remote gauge. Happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy PS> If you are in doubt, they will send you the drawing so that you can verify all the dimensional and feature details! |
AC |
posted 03-27-2004 10:56 PM ET (US)
Thanks, Clark. I had already made notes from your prior responses. I take it the position of the mechanical fuel ga. is standard. Am I correct? I'll heed your advice and get a drawing first. |
Clark Roberts |
posted 03-28-2004 05:55 AM ET (US)
AC, correct, but since you are going to get the drawing you can verify! Good luck and happy Whalin'.. Clark... Spruce Creek Navy |
overbrook |
posted 04-03-2004 07:27 PM ET (US)
WOW- all I can say is WOW!! what I miss when I go off to work! 1st- Jim no hard feelins! that is indeed how I interpereted it was correct size, all the right parts in all the right places and so on. Second Dave and sorry it took so long to answer-but your talkin two seperate deals you say steel?? I don't know if they make steel tanks, but to answer your question in respects to an aluminum tank- Aluminum does'nt rust it corrodes (and I'm not trying to be sarcastic) that is two totally different things. to really get to the heart of your question-thicker is better-it will take longer for corrosion to eat through the thicker aluminum. As far as a tank corroding on the inside-I've never seen it and the reason is that for corrosion to take place it needs several elements I.E. salt ,oxygen,another metal that counter acts with aluminum and so on and these things are not usually going to exist in the right circumstance on the inside of the tank bieng filled with gasoline most of the time.As wether the tank is going to corrode through the metal or the welds cracking or going first is a hard question to answer-again that depends on the circumstance-My tank was pitted all over the top of the tank but the sides,bottom and especailly the welds were all in near perfect condition-reason exposure to salt and oxygen on the top of the tank only in the areas exposed- However thats not the average case- most tanks suffer from water intrusion that seeps down and around the tank where it does eventually weeken the welds and thats where most tanks give- I've also heard of many tanks circumming to electrolisis where lets say a screw or something falls into the tank cavity or better yet a fish hook? anyways that will begin the corrosion in that spot and eat its way out from there.This all goes back to a thread I had sometime back questioning the use of some sort of zinc sacrificial annode inside the tank cavity to protect the fuel tank-my problem was I would have no way to change those out once they started to go bad-so I opted for coating my tank with a zinc phosphate primer then I sprayed it with a bedliner material such as rhinoliner. Its my contention that this will permanately seal off any inhibitors such as salt,oxygen or contact with anything else and as I have mentioned only time will tell wether it will work or not.But yes if I were going to have a tank built -I would definitely go with thicker aluminum and ask the welder to use a heavier rod or wire in the case of a mig to also insure thicker stronger welds.to see what I did with my tank go here- http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/overbrook999/album?.dir=/ded5 tom |
jimh |
posted 04-03-2004 10:29 PM ET (US)
[Changed TOPIC; was "Fuel Tanks..."] |
overbrook |
posted 04-04-2004 10:06 AM ET (US)
Mike- after going back and reading again-LHG made a good point I eluded to but did not clarify-I mentioned no corrosion on the inside but his point clarifies it a little better-best to keep a full fuel tank whenever possible-and when in storage be sure to add some stabill.Down in the south here I don't ever really put my boats up for the winter or do much to winterize them because I use them yr round.The only thing I really concern my self with is making sure in the real bad cold snaps not to leave my motor tilted up so that water can not freeze in the prop area and such.Any how -My preference is with an aluminum Tank- plastic tanks can go bad just as quick if not quicker exposed to the harsh environments and abuses that some of our boats experience- plastic can "rot" and dry crack and so on.Anyway just wanted to point out LHG's comment on the "full" tank thing- I don't think I clarified that well enough when I was speaking of why tanks usually wont go bad inside to out. Tom |
DjPro |
posted 07-23-2005 06:34 PM ET (US)
My 79 v20 Outrage has a tempo aluminum tank. I think it is original. 66 gallons. |
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