Author
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Topic: 1997 Yamaha 200 oil injection problem
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greyg8r |
posted 04-09-2004 07:10 PM ET (US)
One of my 1997 Yamaha 200 Saltwater Series (2-stroke of course) engines has had a problem since I bought the boat two months ago. The starboard engine would idle down and eventually stall out. The marine mechanic put a laser on it (whatever that means) and the engine was overheating. Because the engines are 7 years old and had only 100 hours, the mechanic and I felt it was the water pump and/or thermostats and replaced both. Afterward, the mechanic put the laser on it and it ran at an acceptable temp.Now, the engine does not overheat but still idles down. He checked the oil delivery and it was inadequate. The mechanic says I can run it with premixed fuel until he fixes the ultimate problem which he believes is the oil pump. The mechanic says friction in the block signals that there is a problem with the oil delivery, which causes it to idle down. I have several questions: 1. How does the engine know that there is an oil delivery problem? I imagine there is a sensor for this? 2. If oil is pre-mixed, why does the computer allow the engine to run? In other words, how would it know that there was oil in the fuel? 3. Have I done damage to this engine, even though it has idled down? Thanks for any input. PS: I will also post this on iboats.com and ask for input from "Rodbolt" Richard
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Bigshot
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posted 04-12-2004 12:18 PM ET (US)
I think you might want a second opinion. If she is running low oil an alarm should sound. If she is running low, it will eventually do MAJOR damage if not already. |
Bigshot
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posted 04-12-2004 12:18 PM ET (US)
Have you cleaned the carbs? |
Clark Roberts
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posted 04-13-2004 08:25 AM ET (US)
Grey, your engine does not have an Engine Control Module (ECM = digital computer which controls engine functions like timing of fuel injectors etc) as these are usually found only on electronic fuel injucted (EFI) engines. Your alarms system is most likely controled by and alarm module which is a computer of sorts. I believe that your engine has three two barell carbs (maybe six one barel?) and the oil is injected via a small tube (plastic I believe... this could be the problem) into air stream just ahead of each cyls reed valves (one tube and nozzle per cyl). It is entirely possible that one of these tube is broken/cracked/stopped up etc and that may be cause of under lube. There is no alarm system to detect this so best to get a manual and introduce yourself to your engine. Take air box etc off and take a good look. Can't imagine what putting a "laser" on the engine refers to... Beam me up! Happy Whalin'.. Clark... Spruce Creek Navy |
Tom W Clark
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posted 04-13-2004 08:43 AM ET (US)
The "laser" is probably what the mechanic is calling his infrared thermometer with laser pointer which is a device that you can point and measure temperature from a short distance away without direct contact. It is a common outboard mechanic's tool. |
greyg8r
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posted 04-13-2004 10:21 PM ET (US)
Clark,I had lengthy discussion with the mechanic today and you hit the nail on the head! Nice going. Here is what happened: Two of the tubes from the oil pump to the cylinders were clogged (one completely, the other partially). Because these cylinders were getting little or no oil, friction was building up and that caused the engine to idle down and eventually stop. The mechanic had thought the problem was with the water pump, which had never been replaced on a 1997 engine (with only 100+ hours), but after replacing the water pump, the engine still would idle down and eventually stop. However, after adding oil to the gas, the engine ran fine because it was getting oil and was not overheating! The mechanic checked the compression and it was high and consistent among the cylinders so I think the problem is solved with no permanent damage. As a precaution, he is going to check the other engine. I am excited to take this boat out this weekend. Richard |
Clark Roberts
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posted 04-14-2004 08:32 AM ET (US)
Richard, if those were my engines I would remove all oil from the remote tanks and the "under cowling" ready tanks, clean tanks and purge lines, replace all the plastic delivery lines, and refill tanks/bleed pumps. Until completed I would run 100:1 ratio ready mix for insurance. The condition(s) that caused the clogging quite likely still exists and it could be lumpy slugs of oil caused by who knows... maybe mixing incompatable brands or contamination of sorts. It would be a shame to let those engines die an unnatural death. It would be a good idea to completely clean/inspect/refill oil injection system on any used engine purchase! Can be messy and could be time consuming (especially when you drop some hardware down the mid-section like I always do) but well worth the effort and think of how familiar you will become with your engine. Happy Whalin... Clark... SCN/GLN PS> Yamaha (and I believe the Tohatsu/Nissan and Suzuki) have individual oil delivery tubes but Mercury and OMC (VRO)oiling systems deliver oil to the fuel at fuel pump but still have some plastic tubes from reservoir to pump that can clog/crack... blah, blah, blah |
greyg8r
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posted 04-14-2004 09:04 AM ET (US)
Thanks, Clark,I was planning on doing exactly that. I will empty the tanks, clean and check all the oil delivery lines and replace the oil. And, I was going to run 60:1 in the main tanks as insurance. I'll back that down to 100:1. The seller of the boat (a millionaire with a house on the Gulf of Mexico in Sarasota) offered to foot the bill for this repair, but I like to tinker with my engines myself, because of my unending curiosity and to make sure that things are done right. From now on, I will be doing almost all the work on them. Thanks again. |