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Procedure For Adding Gear Lube
|Author||Topic: Procedure For Adding Gear Lube|
posted 04-14-2004 09:18 PM ET (US)
My Clymer's manual for my '98 Honda 90 gives me contradictory information. The text says to fill from the drain hole (at the bottom) until the fluid comes out the vent hole (at the top); however the diagram has the drain and vent holes mislabeled (vent is labeled drain and vice-versa).
I know this is a novice question, but I've never done it before and would like to do it right.
Additionally, I have the following 3 ports on my engine:
1. Drain (bottom)
Should I fill the bottom (drain) hole up to the vent port?
posted 04-14-2004 10:46 PM ET (US)
Fill from the bottom until it comes out the top. Plug the
top. Then, quickly with confidence, remove the filler from
the bottom and put the plug in. It wil leak a little, don't
worry about it.
Clymer's mislabeling is no surprise. Clymer manuals suck.
Get the real Honda manual. It might be in pidgin, but it will
posted 04-14-2004 10:50 PM ET (US)
I sort of figured that was the way it was done based on the description, but just wanted to be sure.
I've noticed more than a few errors in the Clymer's manual and I have only gotten into just a few sections (lower unit as most of you guys know). Having said that, it's better than nothing - but I do think the "real" Honda manual is in order.
posted 04-15-2004 07:25 AM ET (US)
Among outboard owners adding gear lube, there appears to be two schools: those who use a pump to inject the lubricant, and those who use a squeeze tube to inject the lubricant.
So far my experience has been among the group that uses the pump method. This technique works well, but there is always a bit of a mess when done. Some lubricant remains in the pump and hose following their use. No amount of coaxing can persuade the last ounce of lubricant to flow from the confines of the pump mechanism or its hose. Eventually, however, the thick oil does flow out of these, but only after a few days in your tool box.
As a result, I have developed the technique of removing the pump and its hose from the filler bottle, cleaning them as best I can, wrapping them in paper towels, and putting them into a large zip-lock bag. Then I store the zip-lock bag in a plastic container lined with paper towels. It seems the viscosity of the gear lube decreases as soon as you put it in a dark place, where it then flows like water and seeks the lowest level of your tool box.
I have been eyeing the folks that buy their gear lube in a squeeze tube. I presume they just cut the top of the applicator off, screw the tube right into the lower unit threaded access hole, and squeeze away. Is this right?
Does the squeeze tube applicator thread match the lower unit hole thread? The threads on my Asian-built engine are different from the threads on my American-built engines. Do the squeeze tubes come in different threads?
Or am I mislead, and the threads never match. One just holds the applicator in place against the bore of the fill hole?
posted 04-15-2004 07:33 AM ET (US)
Jim, I have always used the squeeze tube method. Unfortunately you are correct on both counts...I have had engines (Evinrude) that either I got lucky or bought the correct gear lube tube. I have also had to press hard against the hole and perhaps half of what I squeeze made it into the engine.
Currently, I use a bottle with the tube that does screw into the hole, and as you do...keep everything sealed tightly away from everything else in a zip lock bag.
posted 04-15-2004 08:33 AM ET (US)
Well, since i already have the pump (the one I stole the bottom fitting from for my home brew pressure tester), I'll use it.
My method for cleaning it out has been to loop it over the edge of my trashcan handle with the pump inlet and outlet both in the trash can and leave it for a few days. Everything slowly drips out and it looks good as new. The ziplock for storage is a good idea though...I may do that just to keep it free of sawdust and the like.
posted 04-15-2004 11:25 AM ET (US)
I use the pump and tubing assembly, and when I remove the threaded connector from the drain hole in the lower unit, I drain it as much as possible and tie a half hitch in the plastic tubing and put the bottle back on the shelf.This keeps any oil left in the tubing in the bottom of the knot,and away from everything else.
posted 04-15-2004 11:54 AM ET (US)
I just use the squeeze bottle. I have not experienced a problem with "wastage" using this method.
I simply cut off the very end of the applicator tip and insert it firmly into the drain hole. There is very little "backflow" or leakage, but I do keep a plastic oil collection resevoir under the skeg (to catch the old oil, and to catch any additional leakage in the filling process, of which there is very little).
The nice thing about this method is that you don't need to worry about the mess in the toolbox that JimH describes.
I do, however, have a similar "messy" problem with my grease gun for the trailer axle bearings.
posted 04-15-2004 12:07 PM ET (US)
Same paper towels and double freezer grade ziplocks solution
for my grease guns too.
posted 04-15-2004 12:11 PM ET (US)
My little plastic pump lasted for exactly one oil change. The lube changes I just recently did reqired me to use the hose and fitting from the pump on the standard 1 quart bottle to squeeze the lube in. A big C clamp helped to squeeze the plastic bottle after my hand got tired.
posted 04-15-2004 12:13 PM ET (US)
The shop manual for my 200 hp Mercury says to allow about 1 oz. of lube to leak out the fill hole after the vent hole overflows. That's just about how much leaks out when removing the little fill tube and screwing in the plug.
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