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Author Topic:   Binnacle controls for 90-hp E-TEC
erik selis posted 09-25-2005 08:22 AM ET (US)   Profile for erik selis   Send Email to erik selis  
We have ordered a 90-hp E-TEC engine for the 1984 Montauk we are restoring. After doing a search on the Evinrude website I found a couple of binnacle control options for top mounting, including the trim switch. It's not very clear to me what the best model would be for this combination.

These are the part numbers I found:

-0176371
-0174695

I think the first part number describes the one we need but I'm not sure. Can anyone help us out so we get it wrong?

Does anyone know where I can find the cut-out dimensions for this part? Maybe it fits in the original cut-out but I would like to be sure before we fill the unwanted holes and redo the console gelcoat.

Btw, the dealer already ordered the controls but he ordered the wrong ones. He ordered side mount controls without the trim switch. Apparently he's not used to working on Whalers or other CC boats.

Thanks guys,

Erik

erik selis posted 09-25-2005 08:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
The above sentence should read:

"Can anyone help us out so we DON'T get it wrong"....:-)

Erik

Joe Kriz posted 09-25-2005 02:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Joe Kriz  Send Email to Joe Kriz     
Erik,

1. I am familiar with part #176371
This is a single Binnacle mount control with trim switch in handle.
It has the System Check wiring for the newer, 1996 and later engines.
It does not have the intregral ignition switch and safety lanyard built-in.

2. Part #176372
Is a single Binnacle mount conrol for the newer engines with System Check, trim switch in handle and has the intregal ignition switch and safety lanyard built-iin.

I am not totally familiar with the part #174695 but this sounds like the older Non-System Check single Binnacle mount with trim switch in the handle and does not have the built-in ignition switch. You do not want to buy this one if you are upgrading your controls to the System Check System. If you already have this model, you can make it work with a wiring adapter kit.

I am not sure which model you want or need, number 1 or 2 above. Do you want to have the ignition switch in the Binnalce mount or do you want it separate and mounted somewhere else on the console?

I believe the System Check version has a little larger hole than the older version but am not positive. I have the templates but they are not full size... I know the newer dual Binnacle version has a larger cutout than the older dual version.

erik selis posted 09-25-2005 05:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
Thanks for your reply Joe,

It looks like we will be needing the first one: part #176371 as you also indicated.

We have also ordered a separate ignition switch/kill switch (part #176408)

Do the templates you have also show the measurements? This could also help us out.

Thanks again for your help Joe.

Erik

ratherwhalering posted 09-26-2005 11:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Erik:

I installed a new binnacle on my 1987 Montauk-17, part number #176371. I was replacing a Morse MN binnacle control. The bolt pattern was identical, but the new binnacle required me to enlarge the cut-out on the dash. It does come with a cut out guide, but I'm sorry that I threw it out after installing (or maybe I gave it to Joe?) Anyway, It was not a major project. The coweling of the control base should cover any modifications that you undertake to complete installation.

The following is a list of parts I used in my installation:

OMC 20’ Wiring Harness. Part No. 176341.
Cooks Manufacturing Company 4” Power Lift. Part No 40012.
OMC 7000 RPM Tachometer, Tech Series, with system check lights. #176301
OMC Tech Series Voltmeter - #174687
OMC Tech Series Trim Gauge - #174679
OMC Water Pressure Kit, 30 PSI, Tech series. Part No. 17511.
Bombardier Remote Ignition Switch & Horn. Part No. 175974.
Bombardier Top Mount Binnacle w/ Power T/T. Part no. 176371.
Bombardier Control Cables, 22 feet. Part No. CC20522. (This allows for routing with the steering cable at the transom and a 12" loop at the engine. Replaced 15 foot straight shot cables.)
Stiletto 13.25 x 15 propeller. Part No. 21315.
OMC Triple Guard Grease.
(4) Stainless Steel Mounting bolts (4) nuts, and (12) washers.
Delron Washers (8) (Tap Plastics.)
3M 4200 sealant.
Dealer check install, linkage and program for XD100 oil
Raycor Fuel Filter.
4 Fuel hose clamps & additional 3/8 inch gas line.
OMC fuel bulb.

--Rob--

erik selis posted 09-26-2005 12:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for erik selis  Send Email to erik selis     
Wow, thanks a million Rob! Very kind of you for taking the time to go into so much detail. This information is very useful indeed.

Erik

ratherwhalering posted 09-26-2005 04:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Not a problem, Erik. Make sure you get the key switch WITH the warning horn...you may need one of those!
seasaw posted 09-26-2005 08:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for seasaw  Send Email to seasaw     
ratherwhalering, could you define a little more the warning horn on the ignition switch? I have the same set-up on my 86 (rigged in June) but I do not have a warning horn. also any prop recomendations for a 86 Montauk without the set-back bracket like yours? I bought the same prop as yours and have it one hole up. It has tremendous hole shot but I get a max RPM's of 5,000.
thanks
PS I am very happy with my E-Tec after 3 months of hard use!
ratherwhalering posted 09-27-2005 05:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Hmmm. You are spinning a 13.25 x 15-inch stiletto, and only getting 5000 RPM. This doesn't sound quite right. Seasaw, what is your WOT speed via GPS?

My E-TEC will hit 5200 without trim, and trimmed waaaaay out with a light load it will hit 5500, but I have to really tilt the $#@% out of her. My E-TEC is back in the shop, for the second time this month, with a faulty injector connection. Hopefully this will be the last time it goes in for warranty work.

ratherwhalering posted 09-27-2005 05:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Oh, the warning horn is a seperate unit that came with the key switch as a package, or you can order it seperatly. It just plugs into a connector on the wiring harness. Good thing to have. I think it's around $26.00 and takes all of 30 seconds to install.
seasaw posted 09-27-2005 09:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for seasaw  Send Email to seasaw     
what does the warning horn "warn you about"?

unfortunatly I do not have a gps unit to measure my speed. maybe Santa will bring one as I am closing out the season fast with perhaps only one more trip to go!

ratherwhalering posted 09-28-2005 06:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
The warning horn emits a beep when you toggle the ignition to let you know your Whaler loves you...and to announce that it is working. When underway, it will emit a loud beep when any of the following occur: oil, water temp., check engine, and low oil.

It's nice to have, because how often do you really look at the Multi Function Warning Display? It'll tell you in no uncertain terms if there is something wrong with the engine.

Teak Oil posted 09-29-2005 06:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for Teak Oil  Send Email to Teak Oil     
ratherwhalering did you have a non-OMC engine before? If I get an E-Tec I dont want to have to replace every gauge. I planned on getting the tach with the system check gauge and keeping my other gauges. Will this work?

Also I have the chrome Morse control which I really like. No way of getting an adapter kit to make it work, eh?

ratherwhalering posted 09-30-2005 05:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Well, theoretically it is possible. You may need several adapters, though. It really depends on your wiring harness. If you have a non-OMC engine, you will need a new wiring harness. If you have a pre-1996 OMC engine, you will need an engine-end adapter and a new multi-function gauge harness. If you have a 1996 or later OMC, you should be good to go.

I seem to remember you have a Merc? Assuming you have a non-OMC engine, you'll need a wiring harness, which comes with the 8-pin plug for your new tach/multi display gauge (you can also have a 3-inch, 6/12 pole tachometer and a separate 2" multi-display gauge.) You'll need an OMC compatable trim gauge. Volts will work, water pressure will work, engine temp should work (but you'll need a OEM OMC compatable sender). What other gauges do you have?

Don't forget that you need 3/8-inch gas line too.

The Morse control should work, but I don't know if there is an adapter available. If not, you can just cut off the OMC compatable neutral safety plug from the wiring harness, and then directly wire that sucker using bullet connectors or butt connectors to the neutral safety connector mechanism on your Morse control. I think ;-)
On the other end, the connection to the engine, you will need control cable adapters.

I believe you have a remote key switch, so the switch, warning horn, ect. can be either OMC plug & play, or aftermarket. But again, you will need to cut off the OMC compatable plugs and wire it yourself.

If I were to do it all over again, I'd replace all the gauges, but keep my old Morse MN binnacle.

Your breathalizer should also work fine!

Shoot me an e-mail with your phone number if you want to talk about it.

Teak Oil posted 09-30-2005 09:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Teak Oil  Send Email to Teak Oil     
Breathalizer? Hope I stay away from those, LOL.

I have a 1985 Evinrude. So I need an adapter for the engine end, and a new harness for all the gauges, is that correct? Does that harness just plug into the wiring going to the engine?

I have all OMC gauges, Battery, trim, water pressure, speedo and tach. I would just change the tach and change the other gauges later on if I wanted them all to match.

I wont be doing anything until spring at the earliest, I am just getting a list now so I know what to order.

Thanks for the help

ratherwhalering posted 10-01-2005 12:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
O.K. that makes it easier...you have two choices. Keep your old wiring harness, buy an adapter for the engine end, AND another, separate wiring harness for the multi-function, System Check gauge(s) or buy a completely new wiring harness with the multi-function, System Check harness already built in, and a new key switch/warning horn. The rest of the gauges should work fine.


My advice? Spend the $100.00 and buy a new wiring harness and key switch/warning horn. Keep it simple. The new wiring harness plugs into the engine connections simple enough...no bulky adapters in an already crowded coweling. The console end plugs into the System Check tachometer. The new key switch and warning horn also just plug into the wiring harness. So then keep your binnacle and cut the wiring hraness plug off and splice the neutral safety switch wires to the wiring harness. Now we are talking about a new wiring system with just two splices.

Or just buy a new OMC/BRP binnacle and plug that in too. That's what I did because I didn't want to splice anything. I got it for $100.00 on e-bay.

Good luck!


Teak Oil posted 10-01-2005 12:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Teak Oil  Send Email to Teak Oil     
Thanks for the info. I am getting a lot more confident that I can rig this thing myself. Now just need to save a few $$$

ratherwhalering posted 10-09-2005 10:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
After thinking about it, I forgot to mention that there is also a trim/tilt wiring harness plug that will also need to be spliced...three wires. The neutral safety wires come with bullet connecters on a new wiring harness. Hope this helps.

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