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Author Topic:   Gas Tank Bonding System

jkweigand posted 04-12-2006 01:34 PM ET (US)
I searched/reviewed extensive discussion on this topic, but didn't see a recommendation. I have a 1985 OUTRAGE 18. I am in the process of replacing the gas tank. I need to ground it properly. I repaired transom, and in doing so, filled and re-gel coated over the hole for ground wire brass ground plate.
I can reinstall plate, if that would be best. Alternatively, I can ground to negative terminal of battery (or fuse block?). Any recommendations?
Bulldog posted 04-12-2006 02:00 PM ET (US)
My 1987 Revenge has the wire from tank to the ground plate on transom and also a wire from the tank to the fill fitting. This is bonding all the tank fittings to the water, but no where is there an elctrical ground to the battery. Unless you have an electrical fuel gauge I would stay away from the battery.......Jack
jimh posted 04-12-2006 08:40 PM ET (US)
My observation regarding the grounding of the fuel tank in boats made by Boston Whaler which have a metallic fuel tank:
--the original configuration was to isolate the fuel system and its bonding from the battery. All metallic components of the fuel system were bonded together with a 10-AWG wire with green insulation. A sintered bronze electrode was installed below the waterline on the transom and bonded to the fuel system.
--sometime after c.1992 this was changed to eliminate the sintered bronze electrode on the transom. The metallic components of the fuel system were bonded to the battery negative. Note that the outboard motor is also bonded to the battery negative, so when the outboard is immersed in water the fuel system would be coupled to the sea via the sacrificial anodes of the motor.
I mention c.1992 as an epoch because I have a 1992 Boston Whaler boat and it still has the sintered bronze electrode.
jkweigand posted 04-13-2006 12:25 PM ET (US)
jimh (and others), would you ground to battery instead of reinstlling ground plate and grounding to it since Whalers now do that? Bulldog suggests against grounding to battery, but since that seems to be the "technique" on the post-'92 Whalers, why wouldn't I adopt this and ground to battery? Thanks!
acassidy posted 04-13-2006 09:40 PM ET (US)
Yes Bond it to the Battery. Ground fuel tank by connecting the fuel fill ground wire (this eliminates static) and tank ground wire (should all be green wires) to the boats ground, which should be grounded to the grounding plate on the transom.
On the 22’ Whaler I just rewired, (the original bonding wire was 8 gauge wire to the brass grounding plate), I ran a 10 gauge wire from the Fuel tank fill, to the aluminum tank, then to the main ground bus. From the bus I ran a 6 Gauge wire to the grounding plate. From the tank itself I ran another green wire to a second smaller grounding plate on the transom and then tied the 2 plates together via a 6 gauge. I put a lot of redundancy into my rewiring and like to have something I can trust.
If the bonding is not done correct, in salt water the outboard lower unit will act as a bonding surface and can increase corrosion. This was happening on my outboard before I rewired and I discovered that the previous owner had disconnected the original bonding wire.
Archie

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Author	Topic: Gas Tank Bonding System
jkweigand	posted 04-12-2006 01:34 PM ET (US) I searched/reviewed extensive discussion on this topic, but didn't see a recommendation. I have a 1985 OUTRAGE 18. I am in the process of replacing the gas tank. I need to ground it properly. I repaired transom, and in doing so, filled and re-gel coated over the hole for ground wire brass ground plate. I can reinstall plate, if that would be best. Alternatively, I can ground to negative terminal of battery (or fuse block?). Any recommendations?
Bulldog	posted 04-12-2006 02:00 PM ET (US) My 1987 Revenge has the wire from tank to the ground plate on transom and also a wire from the tank to the fill fitting. This is bonding all the tank fittings to the water, but no where is there an elctrical ground to the battery. Unless you have an electrical fuel gauge I would stay away from the battery.......Jack
jimh	posted 04-12-2006 08:40 PM ET (US) My observation regarding the grounding of the fuel tank in boats made by Boston Whaler which have a metallic fuel tank: --the original configuration was to isolate the fuel system and its bonding from the battery. All metallic components of the fuel system were bonded together with a 10-AWG wire with green insulation. A sintered bronze electrode was installed below the waterline on the transom and bonded to the fuel system. --sometime after c.1992 this was changed to eliminate the sintered bronze electrode on the transom. The metallic components of the fuel system were bonded to the battery negative. Note that the outboard motor is also bonded to the battery negative, so when the outboard is immersed in water the fuel system would be coupled to the sea via the sacrificial anodes of the motor. I mention c.1992 as an epoch because I have a 1992 Boston Whaler boat and it still has the sintered bronze electrode.
jkweigand	posted 04-13-2006 12:25 PM ET (US) jimh (and others), would you ground to battery instead of reinstlling ground plate and grounding to it since Whalers now do that? Bulldog suggests against grounding to battery, but since that seems to be the "technique" on the post-'92 Whalers, why wouldn't I adopt this and ground to battery? Thanks!
acassidy	posted 04-13-2006 09:40 PM ET (US) Yes Bond it to the Battery. Ground fuel tank by connecting the fuel fill ground wire (this eliminates static) and tank ground wire (should all be green wires) to the boats ground, which should be grounded to the grounding plate on the transom. On the 22’ Whaler I just rewired, (the original bonding wire was 8 gauge wire to the brass grounding plate), I ran a 10 gauge wire from the Fuel tank fill, to the aluminum tank, then to the main ground bus. From the bus I ran a 6 Gauge wire to the grounding plate. From the tank itself I ran another green wire to a second smaller grounding plate on the transom and then tied the 2 plates together via a 6 gauge. I put a lot of redundancy into my rewiring and like to have something I can trust. If the bonding is not done correct, in salt water the outboard lower unit will act as a bonding surface and can increase corrosion. This was happening on my outboard before I rewired and I discovered that the previous owner had disconnected the original bonding wire. Archie