drain tube flaring tool - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  drain tube flaring tool

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   drain tube flaring tool

montauk steve posted 04-28-2006 02:00 AM ET (US)
Does anyone have the drain tube flaring tool that I can borrow or rent. I am in the southern california area. I would probably need it about a week. 2 at the most.
let me know
If this is in the wrong forum, sorry.
Steve
steve randel posted 04-29-2006 11:22 AM ET (US)
use lg ball pien hammer, hold it firmly on end of tube strike it with another hammer. have someone back up the side with something heavy (8-12lb sledge)use 5200 behind it.
steve randel posted 04-29-2006 11:29 AM ET (US)
dry fit it allow about 1/8 sticking out for flair tubing cutter for plumbing pipr works good good luck
Tom W Clark posted 04-29-2006 11:38 AM ET (US)
Montauk Steve,
My tools are spoken for for a while, but if you can wait...
Steve Randel,
The ball peen hammer trick works OK, but if you have the correct flaring tools, the job goes much more smoothly.
You want about 5/16" sticking out of the hull, not 1/8". This will allow enough tubing to cover the O-ring.
You might be interested in reading this:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
montauk steve posted 04-30-2006 08:16 PM ET (US)
Tom,
I can wait for the tool to pop up. The articles is what brought this to my attention. there is a small drip leak on the main drain on my montauk. And since i am doing one mind as well do them all.
Thanks
Steve
CC25 posted 04-30-2006 10:00 PM ET (US)
Freat info. These threads are a watershed of information. I kave to as one question though. If this tube replacement were done at a Whaler dealer, would they do it the same way, and how much should something like this cost?
Thanks
CC25 posted 04-30-2006 10:50 PM ET (US)
(I meant to say Great info, not Freat info) ...
montauk steve posted 04-30-2006 11:43 PM ET (US)
If anyone else is wondering the length of the tubes, this is for a montauk 17
splashwell: 3.5"
transom: 12"
bow locker: 4.5"
will also need 2 o-ring gaskets per tube and 4200 or what ever.
Steve
Sal DiMercurio posted 05-01-2006 12:07 AM ET (US)
I got mine from Hampton marine but it was like $50.00 compared to another place mentioned on this site where they were $29.00.
Mine are spoken for, for at least another month or so because I've got that 1986 ...15 sport to redo.
If I finish sooner your welcome to use mine.
I'm in N. Central Calif,...bay area.
I've done them different ways but Toms method is bY far the best.
Especially heating up the tip to take some of the temper out of it so it will roll smoother.
Your a good teacher Tom, as you taught this old dog a new trick.
Sal
Tom W Clark posted 05-01-2006 11:58 AM ET (US)
Steve,
Be careful to allow extra length on the tubing for the flares. The factory parts diagrams for your hull call for:
one (1) 4-7/8" tube in the bow
one (1) 14" tube in the stern
two(2) 2-5/8" tubes in the splashwell
Sal,
Your "new" Sport 15 needs:
one (1) 2-3/8" tube in the bow
one (1) 15" tube in the stern
two (2) 2-3/8" tubes in the splashwell
Both of you guys need new Perko 2-1/2" clam shells for the bow drain tubes.
sternorama posted 05-01-2006 12:37 PM ET (US)
...you can use mine, and I have extra brass tube and o-rings and 4200, and long piece of all-thread. Also some hard earned experience... (the guy who mentioned the hammer knows what I'm talking about)
-Gary, 1968 16' Classic with rebuild drain tube.
In Huntington Beach, CA (I can email you my cell number)
montauk steve posted 05-01-2006 01:34 PM ET (US)
Tom,
Thanks for the heads up. I will write that down and keep it with me.
Gary,
Thanks for the offer. will drop by wednesday after work
steve
WestBayWhaler posted 05-01-2006 03:29 PM ET (US)
You can wait for the tool if you want, but you should also know that the tool only works on some whalers, and not on others: my 1967 Eastport couldn't use the tool to replace the tubes because the surfaces are not parallel. The wall in the sump is tilted, as is the transom, so the tool, which requires two parellel, square surfaces, was useless.
FYI, you may be better off trying the ball peen hammer route.
Sal DiMercurio posted 05-01-2006 05:52 PM ET (US)
Tom, are those measurments the total length the tube needs to be cut before rolling the ends, or is that the length after the roll has been done on both ends?
Sal
sternorama posted 05-02-2006 12:22 PM ET (US)
WestBayWhaler is right about the limitations of the flaring tool on the sloped surfaces. I will say that the tools did help me create the initial form of the flare and then the hammer technique proved itself out in finishing the flares.
P.S....Anyone need any o-rings? I bought the bag of 30 from Mcmaster Carr, and I think I have at least 25 left! Just send me a few stamps!-GS
Tom W Clark posted 05-02-2006 12:31 PM ET (US)
Sal,
I believe that is the length of tube before flaring but I am also sure that the Whaler specified lengths are very conservative. Not all Whaler hulls will use exactly the same length of tubes. I depends on where the hole was drilled at the factory among other things.
I suggest using those measurements as minimums for ordering purposes, but if it is close, just measure your own hull/holes. Remember, you need at least an extra 3/8" on EACH side of the hull to accommodate the flares themselves.
Very few tubes in Whalers hull are perpendicular which is why my air hammer technique works so well. Check out the technique here:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
montauk steve posted 05-02-2006 01:15 PM ET (US)
One question that I just thought about.
what is on the outside of the drain tube?? is foam on the other side?? or did BW glass/coat the inside of the holes??
If its foam, seems like that is a better way to check if there is water in the hull, rather than drilling a few holes on the hull. unless the foam delaminated from the glass on the bottom of the boat, then you would need to drill holes on the bottom or absolute rear of the boat.
montauk steve posted 05-04-2006 12:10 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the replys for borrowing the flaring tool. I got a hold of one local, thanks sternorama (Gary).
Game plan is to pull the 3 plugs in the aft portion of the boat, check if there is any dampness and if there isnt then replace. If there is fishing will have to wait.
Steve
mako34 posted 05-04-2006 08:47 AM ET (US)
Steve, I just pulled the transom tube from my 1969 Katama yesterday, about a full 2 inches from the transom in had rotted out at some point before I even purchased the boat. I had not really paid much attention to it until reading many of the posts on this site and once I finally got that sucker out sure enough there is a cylindrical chamber of soaked foam all the way through. Dont know the year of your montauk but I would imagine you have foam behind your tube as well.
-mako
Tom W Clark posted 05-04-2006 09:16 AM ET (US)
Steve,
To answer your question, the drain tubes are simply inserted into a hole that is drilled through the hull. There is nothing done to the hole before the tube is inserted. It is the tube itself that provides the protection.
This is why the point of contact between the tubes and the fiberglass skins is so critical and why O-rings and sealant are so important.
montauk steve posted 05-04-2006 10:39 AM ET (US)
Mako,
are you in the process of drying it out?
And how wet is it in there? If you placed a paper towel in there would it be soaked and then tear due to the moisture?
I have an 83 montauk by the way.
Thanks for all the posts and answers. I will see tomorrow night when i visit the boat.
thanks again,
Steve
mako34 posted 05-05-2006 10:56 AM ET (US)
Yeah its wet, on the transom side about 2 inches of the tube must have fallen off at some prior time, and on the bilgewell side half of the flare and oring was gone so water could enter that way as well. The boat was not kept in the water so that was probably its only saving grace, the foam is wet throughout the entire chamber left after the tube removal. But, i have dealth with wet foam all over this boat, removing old trolling motors and other hardware, hell the boat is one year older than I am so it certainly has some water in it but it sits even rides great and catches huge fish! I just let those spots dry out for a few days, and stick some paper towels in the exposed holes and then use spray foam the west system epoxy to seal everthing back up. For the transom drain I really dont want to spend 40$ on a flaring tool, and I think pvc will last longer anyway, just need to find a 1" pipe that will accept a plug. Good luck Steve.
montauk steve posted 05-05-2006 02:01 PM ET (US)
i'll see how it goes this weekend. I will also take pictures of the process and what i find and dont find.
Lots of boat work and no fishing this weekend... JOY. HA
Thanks for the info and techniques.
Steve
montauk steve posted 05-07-2006 11:01 PM ET (US)
ok
pulled the rear aft thru hull drains. the two in the splash well had a bit of moistness, the main transom drain was pretty wet. I placed a few paper towels in there and when i pulled them they were moist.
I am allowing the boat to dry over the next week. hopefully sunny san diego will be sunny and no more june gloom in may
Steve
Gaurdian 18 posted 06-08-2009 07:56 PM ET (US)
I have an 18' that the tubes have really gone on. The hull is wet, but seems very sound still. I just ordered new tubes for all the thru hulls from Twin Cities Marine in Wisconsin. Sue was very helpfull as the discussions mentioned. Pleasure to deal with her. I got the 1" flange tool for the sump and bow. I plan on using the hammer method on the transom as they are not 1"? Why not just have one size train tube? The transome are 1-1/4" diameter... Oh well. Once I can keep the hull dry, it's going to be fun trying to dry it out. I plan on using it anyway this summer, then get it in the garage in the fall and tilt it as high as possible and drill a bunch of holes in it.
Any other suggestions/tips?
Once I get the tubes and replace mine, I'll have a 1" flange tool I can share. I hope I won't need it again for 5-10 years:)
arctic cruiser posted 06-09-2009 02:24 PM ET (US)
I have a 71 ribbed outrage and pretty sure the thru hull that drains the sump at the back of the boat needs to be replaced. But where the fitting fits in the sump is in a very small recessed area so I don't know how a tool can fit in there to flare the tube. Any ideas as I have not replaced this before?

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: drain tube flaring tool
montauk steve	posted 04-28-2006 02:00 AM ET (US) Does anyone have the drain tube flaring tool that I can borrow or rent. I am in the southern california area. I would probably need it about a week. 2 at the most. let me know If this is in the wrong forum, sorry. Steve
steve randel	posted 04-29-2006 11:22 AM ET (US) use lg ball pien hammer, hold it firmly on end of tube strike it with another hammer. have someone back up the side with something heavy (8-12lb sledge)use 5200 behind it.
steve randel	posted 04-29-2006 11:29 AM ET (US) dry fit it allow about 1/8 sticking out for flair tubing cutter for plumbing pipr works good good luck
Tom W Clark	posted 04-29-2006 11:38 AM ET (US) Montauk Steve, My tools are spoken for for a while, but if you can wait... Steve Randel, The ball peen hammer trick works OK, but if you have the correct flaring tools, the job goes much more smoothly. You want about 5/16" sticking out of the hull, not 1/8". This will allow enough tubing to cover the O-ring. You might be interested in reading this: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
montauk steve	posted 04-30-2006 08:16 PM ET (US) Tom, I can wait for the tool to pop up. The articles is what brought this to my attention. there is a small drip leak on the main drain on my montauk. And since i am doing one mind as well do them all. Thanks Steve
CC25	posted 04-30-2006 10:00 PM ET (US) Freat info. These threads are a watershed of information. I kave to as one question though. If this tube replacement were done at a Whaler dealer, would they do it the same way, and how much should something like this cost? Thanks
CC25	posted 04-30-2006 10:50 PM ET (US) (I meant to say Great info, not Freat info) ...
montauk steve	posted 04-30-2006 11:43 PM ET (US) If anyone else is wondering the length of the tubes, this is for a montauk 17 splashwell: 3.5" transom: 12" bow locker: 4.5" will also need 2 o-ring gaskets per tube and 4200 or what ever. Steve
Sal DiMercurio	posted 05-01-2006 12:07 AM ET (US) I got mine from Hampton marine but it was like $50.00 compared to another place mentioned on this site where they were $29.00. Mine are spoken for, for at least another month or so because I've got that 1986 ...15 sport to redo. If I finish sooner your welcome to use mine. I'm in N. Central Calif,...bay area. I've done them different ways but Toms method is bY far the best. Especially heating up the tip to take some of the temper out of it so it will roll smoother. Your a good teacher Tom, as you taught this old dog a new trick. Sal
Tom W Clark	posted 05-01-2006 11:58 AM ET (US) Steve, Be careful to allow extra length on the tubing for the flares. The factory parts diagrams for your hull call for: one (1) 4-7/8" tube in the bow one (1) 14" tube in the stern two(2) 2-5/8" tubes in the splashwell Sal, Your "new" Sport 15 needs: one (1) 2-3/8" tube in the bow one (1) 15" tube in the stern two (2) 2-3/8" tubes in the splashwell Both of you guys need new Perko 2-1/2" clam shells for the bow drain tubes.
sternorama	posted 05-01-2006 12:37 PM ET (US) ...you can use mine, and I have extra brass tube and o-rings and 4200, and long piece of all-thread. Also some hard earned experience... (the guy who mentioned the hammer knows what I'm talking about) -Gary, 1968 16' Classic with rebuild drain tube. In Huntington Beach, CA (I can email you my cell number)
montauk steve	posted 05-01-2006 01:34 PM ET (US) Tom, Thanks for the heads up. I will write that down and keep it with me. Gary, Thanks for the offer. will drop by wednesday after work steve
WestBayWhaler	posted 05-01-2006 03:29 PM ET (US) You can wait for the tool if you want, but you should also know that the tool only works on some whalers, and not on others: my 1967 Eastport couldn't use the tool to replace the tubes because the surfaces are not parallel. The wall in the sump is tilted, as is the transom, so the tool, which requires two parellel, square surfaces, was useless. FYI, you may be better off trying the ball peen hammer route.
Sal DiMercurio	posted 05-01-2006 05:52 PM ET (US) Tom, are those measurments the total length the tube needs to be cut before rolling the ends, or is that the length after the roll has been done on both ends? Sal
sternorama	posted 05-02-2006 12:22 PM ET (US) WestBayWhaler is right about the limitations of the flaring tool on the sloped surfaces. I will say that the tools did help me create the initial form of the flare and then the hammer technique proved itself out in finishing the flares. P.S....Anyone need any o-rings? I bought the bag of 30 from Mcmaster Carr, and I think I have at least 25 left! Just send me a few stamps!-GS
Tom W Clark	posted 05-02-2006 12:31 PM ET (US) Sal, I believe that is the length of tube before flaring but I am also sure that the Whaler specified lengths are very conservative. Not all Whaler hulls will use exactly the same length of tubes. I depends on where the hole was drilled at the factory among other things. I suggest using those measurements as minimums for ordering purposes, but if it is close, just measure your own hull/holes. Remember, you need at least an extra 3/8" on EACH side of the hull to accommodate the flares themselves. Very few tubes in Whalers hull are perpendicular which is why my air hammer technique works so well. Check out the technique here: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
montauk steve	posted 05-02-2006 01:15 PM ET (US) One question that I just thought about. what is on the outside of the drain tube?? is foam on the other side?? or did BW glass/coat the inside of the holes?? If its foam, seems like that is a better way to check if there is water in the hull, rather than drilling a few holes on the hull. unless the foam delaminated from the glass on the bottom of the boat, then you would need to drill holes on the bottom or absolute rear of the boat.
montauk steve	posted 05-04-2006 12:10 AM ET (US) Thanks for the replys for borrowing the flaring tool. I got a hold of one local, thanks sternorama (Gary). Game plan is to pull the 3 plugs in the aft portion of the boat, check if there is any dampness and if there isnt then replace. If there is fishing will have to wait. Steve
mako34	posted 05-04-2006 08:47 AM ET (US) Steve, I just pulled the transom tube from my 1969 Katama yesterday, about a full 2 inches from the transom in had rotted out at some point before I even purchased the boat. I had not really paid much attention to it until reading many of the posts on this site and once I finally got that sucker out sure enough there is a cylindrical chamber of soaked foam all the way through. Dont know the year of your montauk but I would imagine you have foam behind your tube as well. -mako
Tom W Clark	posted 05-04-2006 09:16 AM ET (US) Steve, To answer your question, the drain tubes are simply inserted into a hole that is drilled through the hull. There is nothing done to the hole before the tube is inserted. It is the tube itself that provides the protection. This is why the point of contact between the tubes and the fiberglass skins is so critical and why O-rings and sealant are so important.
montauk steve	posted 05-04-2006 10:39 AM ET (US) Mako, are you in the process of drying it out? And how wet is it in there? If you placed a paper towel in there would it be soaked and then tear due to the moisture? I have an 83 montauk by the way. Thanks for all the posts and answers. I will see tomorrow night when i visit the boat. thanks again, Steve
mako34	posted 05-05-2006 10:56 AM ET (US) Yeah its wet, on the transom side about 2 inches of the tube must have fallen off at some prior time, and on the bilgewell side half of the flare and oring was gone so water could enter that way as well. The boat was not kept in the water so that was probably its only saving grace, the foam is wet throughout the entire chamber left after the tube removal. But, i have dealth with wet foam all over this boat, removing old trolling motors and other hardware, hell the boat is one year older than I am so it certainly has some water in it but it sits even rides great and catches huge fish! I just let those spots dry out for a few days, and stick some paper towels in the exposed holes and then use spray foam the west system epoxy to seal everthing back up. For the transom drain I really dont want to spend 40$ on a flaring tool, and I think pvc will last longer anyway, just need to find a 1" pipe that will accept a plug. Good luck Steve.
montauk steve	posted 05-05-2006 02:01 PM ET (US) i'll see how it goes this weekend. I will also take pictures of the process and what i find and dont find. Lots of boat work and no fishing this weekend... JOY. HA Thanks for the info and techniques. Steve
montauk steve	posted 05-07-2006 11:01 PM ET (US) ok pulled the rear aft thru hull drains. the two in the splash well had a bit of moistness, the main transom drain was pretty wet. I placed a few paper towels in there and when i pulled them they were moist. I am allowing the boat to dry over the next week. hopefully sunny san diego will be sunny and no more june gloom in may Steve
Gaurdian 18	posted 06-08-2009 07:56 PM ET (US) I have an 18' that the tubes have really gone on. The hull is wet, but seems very sound still. I just ordered new tubes for all the thru hulls from Twin Cities Marine in Wisconsin. Sue was very helpfull as the discussions mentioned. Pleasure to deal with her. I got the 1" flange tool for the sump and bow. I plan on using the hammer method on the transom as they are not 1"? Why not just have one size train tube? The transome are 1-1/4" diameter... Oh well. Once I can keep the hull dry, it's going to be fun trying to dry it out. I plan on using it anyway this summer, then get it in the garage in the fall and tilt it as high as possible and drill a bunch of holes in it. Any other suggestions/tips? Once I get the tubes and replace mine, I'll have a 1" flange tool I can share. I hope I won't need it again for 5-10 years:)
arctic cruiser	posted 06-09-2009 02:24 PM ET (US) I have a 71 ribbed outrage and pretty sure the thru hull that drains the sump at the back of the boat needs to be replaced. But where the fitting fits in the sump is in a very small recessed area so I don't know how a tool can fit in there to flare the tube. Any ideas as I have not replaced this before?