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Author Topic:   OMC Shift Linkage Removal
ladygullrock posted 05-17-2006 04:47 PM ET (US)   Profile for ladygullrock   Send Email to ladygullrock  
I am trying to replace a water pump on a 1988 70hp Johnson model #J70TLCCA, serial # G7801301. The 70hp is a 3 cylinder with a VRO2 setup. I am having difficulty in finding the shift rod screw. Do I need to remove any parts to help me remove the screw? The service manual for this motor shows the screw, but mine is not readily seen. Any help would be appreciated.
thanks,
Tucker

bsmotril posted 05-17-2006 06:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
I've not done it personally on a 70hp, but my book shows the screw accessible from the starboard side of the motor below the carbs. The step by step procedure does not show anything needing to be removed first. I've done plenty of OMC V4s and they are very similar. I've used a socket on a swivel extension to get mine out since the screw also has a hex head and sockets swivel better than screwdrivers. BillS
Joe Kriz posted 05-17-2006 08:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for Joe Kriz  Send Email to Joe Kriz     
Lew,

I answered your other post last night but that post evidently was deleted for some reason.

ladygullrock posted 05-18-2006 06:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for ladygullrock  Send Email to ladygullrock     
Hi Joe

I did not receive your post. Please resend. I can use all the insight I can get.

Thanks,

Lew

jimh posted 05-18-2006 12:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The other discussion was removed because the discussion turned away from the repair of the motor and into a discussion on how some people feel the forum should be conducted. I hope that does not reoccur in this discussion. As I have said many times, there is an entirely separate discusion in which the focus of the discussion is the discussions themselves, and that is the proper place to raise questions of how the discussions are to be conducted. Please do not re-introduce the topic of how discussions ought to be conducted into this discussion.

Back to the discussion of the Shift lever removal:

Please see:
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/johnrudetips.htm

This is an excellent article that illustrates the process. It has large image files linked to the small ones shown initiall if you need more detail.

I have heard many anecdotal reports of the connection at the shift lever on OMC engines being somewhat difficult to access.

There is another OMC oriented forum where many experts hang out and can offer more advice about this detail of the OMC repair procedure than might be available here on our BOSTON WHALER discussion. See:

http://forums.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=28

ladygullrock posted 05-18-2006 01:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for ladygullrock  Send Email to ladygullrock     
JMH
Thank you for providing the link. I have visited and posted my question on the lower end maintenance. The engine depicted is not the same. I know that my model # and serial # are correct. I am going to post a couple of pictures of my engine.

Tucker

crabby posted 05-18-2006 02:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for crabby  Send Email to crabby     
On my 1986 70hp Evinrude the shift rod is not held by a screw but rather with a pin, located under the carbs just above the lower cowling. You can see it if you move the shift lever.

I am assuming yours is similar as OMC used the same design for a long time on those motors. In any event, good luck.

--paul

fairdeal2u posted 05-19-2006 12:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for fairdeal2u  Send Email to fairdeal2u     
Is a big secret. None of the mechanics would tell me how to disconnect the shift linkage on a 70 hp 2 stroke. It took a while to figure it out. Once you understand its a piece of cake.

Here's how:

On the starboard side take take the pin off of the lever after disconnecting it from the cable end.

Push the lever towards the port side and turn clockwise a little.

Done.

The shift rod comes out with the lower end so make sure that you tilt the motor enough to clear.

Be sure to note the position of the end of the shift rod because it spins 360 degrees. If it is off 180, you won't be able to line it up again.

email me if you can't understand the instructions.

ladygullrock posted 05-19-2006 07:00 AM ET (US)     Profile for ladygullrock  Send Email to ladygullrock     
Thank you fairdeal2u. I have a service manual, specific to the motor, that shows the "standard" removal and the removal with a VRO2. Suffice it to say a little ambiguous. I am going to try the repair tomorrow. Pictures to be taken.

Tucker

fairdeal2u posted 05-19-2006 02:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for fairdeal2u  Send Email to fairdeal2u     
Let me know if you have any trouble. Mine was an 87 with the VRO. I am sure that it is the same as yours.

Just be sure to note and remember which side of the rod goes towards the front of the motor since the end of the rod is offset.

I use to chance the watepump in less than 45 minutes.

Use new seals for the water tube and be sure to put some triple guard on your bolts before putting bak together.

jimh posted 05-21-2006 02:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Thanks for the great first-hand experience and tip on how to remove the shift linkage on an OMC outboard motor when dropping the gear case in preparation to change the water pump and impeller. That is excellent advice. Anyone trying to change the water pump and impeller on their OMC outboard will be glad to know. The shift linkage connection sounds like it is something you learn to deal with after doing a few of them.
fairdeal2u posted 05-21-2006 03:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for fairdeal2u  Send Email to fairdeal2u     
yes, it was very frustrating when I tried to do it the first time. It is not written in any books. When I went to ask mechanics, they out right lie. They said that I had to have special tools and small sockets and wrenches to take the link
a part since it is so tight to get too. Or they would say that I had to take apart the VR0 to get to it. When in fact, all you need is a pair of good needle nose pliers and a common wrench. I am pretty sure that this works for the 90 hp motors as well.

Hope that this is helpful to the weekend mechanic and boat owner that needs to save some money for gas these days.

where2 posted 05-21-2006 09:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
There are some definite issues in seeing what it is you need to deal with while having the VRO pump in place. On my 1985 70Hp Johnson, I seem to recall having to move the VRO pump out of my way to get my tools down under the carbs. While you're in that neighborhood, take a look at the various fuel hoses attaching to the VRO pump and replace any that are showing signs of cracking. When I did my water pump 2 years ago, I had some hoses looking their age (19 years old) and showing signs of cracking. It's all about preventative maintenance.
fairdeal2u posted 05-21-2006 10:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for fairdeal2u  Send Email to fairdeal2u     
Just put the do a vacuum test to see if you have leaks in your hoses. Good idea to replace your vro hoses every ten years or a thousand hours.

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