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Author Topic:   Brass Drain Tube Replacement

1985supersport15 posted 06-25-2008 02:59 PM ET (US)
One of the [brass drain tubes] from the upper self bailing well of my boat recently rotted out. It broke from the lip on the transom about half way through the other side. Can you just get replacement brass tubes at West Marine or another marine store? If so how, do I get the rest of the other one out? What kind of sealant do you put around the new scupper?
jimh posted 06-26-2008 08:48 AM ET (US)
Replacement of the brass drain tubes has been described in detail in prior articles. A good place to start reading is
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
and after than, perhaps some of these others:
http://continuouswave.com/cgi-bin/sw.pl?Search=brass+near+drain+near+ tube
1985supersport15 posted 07-03-2008 10:50 AM ET (US)
Jim,
Thanks for the link that thread was very informative. However, with many of the pictures absent some of the process is still unclear as I have no previous knowledge of this area.
My primary questions are:
With a cracked, damaged or otherwised compromised brass drain tube is the foam/wood of the hull directly exposed to water?
Whaler did not put any kind or resin inside the thru hulls before putting the tubing in?
I am concerned because I have not got around to fixing the tube yet and have been out a few times and do not want to get any water ingress into the hull.
With regard to replacing the drain tubes is it possible to simply purchase pre-flared tubes?
I saw some at a marine outfitter but was not sure if this is the right way to go.
Couldnt you just buy two tubes and cut them at the appropriate angle so that they meet flush in the center of the hole and then seal with 4200/5200 and rubber washers?
Does the technique of flaring described in the lengthy thread you supplied make no breaks in the tubing at all inside the hull?
dscew posted 07-03-2008 11:30 AM ET (US)
If you have a through-hull below the water line that has corroded, the foam is exposed to water and it will get into the interior of the hull.
A2J15Sport posted 07-05-2008 09:15 PM ET (US)
I used "Schedule 40" thinwall PVC for all the tubes on my 15' Sport. OK--FIRE AWAY, long time CW members!
It was quite easy.
1. I cut the tubes to protrude about 1/8" on each end.
2. I then cut PVC collars to cover the 1/8" protrusions.
3. I glued the collars on both ends (using appropriate primer and glue).
4. I sealed the collars with 3M 5200.
5. Tuch up any rough edges with a little 400 grit sandpaper and "viola". New tubes. No special tools and no chance of corrosion and/or rot.
1985supersport15 posted 07-10-2008 08:22 AM ET (US)
Do you have any pictures of your installation?
How did you get the collars to cover the 1/8 protrusions of the pvc flush. I understand the transum has a slight angle on both sides.
I like this idea because it will last long after I'm gone. All the new boats seem to have plastic drain tubes. And like you said no corrosion.
The brass tube method seems too complicated. Ive read over that thread several times and it just seems like a pain. I bought a preflanged 3 in brass tube at west marine and got some plumbing orings at home depot but again with the transum angle it didnt sit flush. It seems difficult to find a flange tool that can do angled flanges.
I called whaler and they said the tool was unnecessary and that the entire flange could be done with a ball peen hammer but I am skeptical.
Smithsm posted 05-08-2009 06:27 PM ET (US)
I have read the threads and examined the three ways to do this.
1. Straight Bolt for purpendicular application
2. Impact Hammer
3. Ball Hammer
I am trying a fourth way - that is a slight modification of other suggestions on variations on way #1.
4. 3/8" Bolt (vs. regular supplied 1/2) with COMPRESSION FITTINGS and extra washers to allow the machined heads rotate slightly to account for the non-perpendicular angle in a through hull drain hole on a 1988 Outrage 20. I don't need much offset and I believe this will work well.
My only concern is that the compression fittings "compress" and become difficult to remove from the bolt after I am finnished - that is why I am adding the oil.
I wish I had steel compression fittings. Might anyone have any idea where I could get "non compressing" compression fittings made of steel ?
jimh posted 05-08-2009 08:36 PM ET (US)
[The above article was posted to multiple threads. The duplicates have been removed.]
jimh posted 05-08-2009 08:37 PM ET (US)

quote:
Thanks for the link that thread was very informative. However, with many of the pictures absent some of the process is still unclear as I have no previous knowledge of this area.
Read the other discussion carefully. There are links to a new host for the pictures.
Tom W Clark posted 05-10-2009 03:18 PM ET (US)
Smithsm,
I'm not sure what a compression fitting you're referring to, but I have tried using spherical washers and thinner, 3/8" all-thread to allow the dies to align with the angle to the hull. The washers I used were similar to these:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-5678
The problem with this system is the dies will still have to be modified to angle within the brass tubing. As they come, they held captive in the tubing by their own length and diameter.
There you do not gain much angle using the thinner all-thread, some but not enough for many Whaler thru-hull situations.
For me the air hammer is much easier in most situations.
Yes, the ball-peen hammer technique works, and works well if you are careful.
Andy Gere and I replaced the large tubes in the transom of his Outrage 22 Cuddy with just a ball-peen hammer. The result was very good, but it took me quite a while to fuss with it until it was just so. The air hammer will do this same job in seconds.

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Author	Topic: Brass Drain Tube Replacement
1985supersport15	posted 06-25-2008 02:59 PM ET (US) One of the [brass drain tubes] from the upper self bailing well of my boat recently rotted out. It broke from the lip on the transom about half way through the other side. Can you just get replacement brass tubes at West Marine or another marine store? If so how, do I get the rest of the other one out? What kind of sealant do you put around the new scupper?
jimh	posted 06-26-2008 08:48 AM ET (US) Replacement of the brass drain tubes has been described in detail in prior articles. A good place to start reading is http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html and after than, perhaps some of these others: http://continuouswave.com/cgi-bin/sw.pl?Search=brass+near+drain+near+ tube
1985supersport15	posted 07-03-2008 10:50 AM ET (US) Jim, Thanks for the link that thread was very informative. However, with many of the pictures absent some of the process is still unclear as I have no previous knowledge of this area. My primary questions are: With a cracked, damaged or otherwised compromised brass drain tube is the foam/wood of the hull directly exposed to water? Whaler did not put any kind or resin inside the thru hulls before putting the tubing in? I am concerned because I have not got around to fixing the tube yet and have been out a few times and do not want to get any water ingress into the hull. With regard to replacing the drain tubes is it possible to simply purchase pre-flared tubes? I saw some at a marine outfitter but was not sure if this is the right way to go. Couldnt you just buy two tubes and cut them at the appropriate angle so that they meet flush in the center of the hole and then seal with 4200/5200 and rubber washers? Does the technique of flaring described in the lengthy thread you supplied make no breaks in the tubing at all inside the hull?
dscew	posted 07-03-2008 11:30 AM ET (US) If you have a through-hull below the water line that has corroded, the foam is exposed to water and it will get into the interior of the hull.
A2J15Sport	posted 07-05-2008 09:15 PM ET (US) I used "Schedule 40" thinwall PVC for all the tubes on my 15' Sport. OK--FIRE AWAY, long time CW members! It was quite easy. 1. I cut the tubes to protrude about 1/8" on each end. 2. I then cut PVC collars to cover the 1/8" protrusions. 3. I glued the collars on both ends (using appropriate primer and glue). 4. I sealed the collars with 3M 5200. 5. Tuch up any rough edges with a little 400 grit sandpaper and "viola". New tubes. No special tools and no chance of corrosion and/or rot.
1985supersport15	posted 07-10-2008 08:22 AM ET (US) Do you have any pictures of your installation? How did you get the collars to cover the 1/8 protrusions of the pvc flush. I understand the transum has a slight angle on both sides. I like this idea because it will last long after I'm gone. All the new boats seem to have plastic drain tubes. And like you said no corrosion. The brass tube method seems too complicated. Ive read over that thread several times and it just seems like a pain. I bought a preflanged 3 in brass tube at west marine and got some plumbing orings at home depot but again with the transum angle it didnt sit flush. It seems difficult to find a flange tool that can do angled flanges. I called whaler and they said the tool was unnecessary and that the entire flange could be done with a ball peen hammer but I am skeptical.
Smithsm	posted 05-08-2009 06:27 PM ET (US) I have read the threads and examined the three ways to do this. 1. Straight Bolt for purpendicular application 2. Impact Hammer 3. Ball Hammer I am trying a fourth way - that is a slight modification of other suggestions on variations on way #1. 4. 3/8" Bolt (vs. regular supplied 1/2) with COMPRESSION FITTINGS and extra washers to allow the machined heads rotate slightly to account for the non-perpendicular angle in a through hull drain hole on a 1988 Outrage 20. I don't need much offset and I believe this will work well. My only concern is that the compression fittings "compress" and become difficult to remove from the bolt after I am finnished - that is why I am adding the oil. I wish I had steel compression fittings. Might anyone have any idea where I could get "non compressing" compression fittings made of steel ?
jimh	posted 05-08-2009 08:36 PM ET (US) [The above article was posted to multiple threads. The duplicates have been removed.]
jimh	posted 05-08-2009 08:37 PM ET (US) quote: Thanks for the link that thread was very informative. However, with many of the pictures absent some of the process is still unclear as I have no previous knowledge of this area. Read the other discussion carefully. There are links to a new host for the pictures.
Tom W Clark	posted 05-10-2009 03:18 PM ET (US) Smithsm, I'm not sure what a compression fitting you're referring to, but I have tried using spherical washers and thinner, 3/8" all-thread to allow the dies to align with the angle to the hull. The washers I used were similar to these: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-5678 The problem with this system is the dies will still have to be modified to angle within the brass tubing. As they come, they held captive in the tubing by their own length and diameter. There you do not gain much angle using the thinner all-thread, some but not enough for many Whaler thru-hull situations. For me the air hammer is much easier in most situations. Yes, the ball-peen hammer technique works, and works well if you are careful. Andy Gere and I replaced the large tubes in the transom of his Outrage 22 Cuddy with just a ball-peen hammer. The result was very good, but it took me quite a while to fuss with it until it was just so. The air hammer will do this same job in seconds.