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  2004 Optimax XL - quits @ mid - hi speed

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Author Topic:   2004 Optimax XL - quits @ mid - hi speed
CapnJeff posted 06-30-2008 08:31 AM ET (US)   Profile for CapnJeff   Send Email to CapnJeff  
Has anyone seen this type of problem? My merc dealer has had the boat for 2 months now and cannot seem to get a handle on the problem even though he has the computer to check it with and has consulted the Mercury Tech in Wisconsin. On choppy days where the boat is bouncing a little the engine will only run for a mile or so and then quit as if someone turned off the key. It will usually start right back up but eventually will not start at all. The last time, it was beeping at me contintiously and would not start once we made it back to the dock. It also seemed to surge as if a cylinder was kicking in and out.

If it is flat out I have run it as far as 25 miles without any problems. The first time I took it in, the computer check told him that one of the air injectors was bad and that the starboard temp readings were only 48 degrees even though a manual check indicated both at normal op temps of 150. Replaced the air injector, thermostat & sending unit and no difference - computer check indicated same issue. He thinks the ECM might be bad - the ECM's are $1800. I would spend the money IF I thought that would fix the problems but I am not convinced that this is it. The last time I talked to him, he had it on the computer and running and when he shut it off, the fuel pump would not stop running. He had to disconnect the wiring to get it to quit.

I bought this boat used in the fall of 2007 and it ran without any problems whatsoever although I would get an ocassional 1 beep which I understood to be the system check. It also ran without any of these issues for the month of April and then things have progressivly gotten worse since then.

Any help would be appreciated.

sosmerc posted 06-30-2008 12:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for sosmerc  Send Email to sosmerc     
Sounds like a challenging problem.
First thing I would try and do is eliminate the boat's fuel system and electrical system...to do this you would run the boat on a seperate fuel tank and line...a Merc 6 gallon portable tank will supply enough fuel without restriction...some aftermarket tanks will NOT.
Running on a seperate keyswitch/harness assembly will help rule out the boat electrical...although you could still have a battery or battery switch or battery cable issue.
I recently encountered a strange electrical problem on an Optimax that turned out to be a bad keyswitch. It would sometimes supply enough voltage to the start circuit that after the engine was running it would re-engage the starter and this would create a "grinding" noise that the customer said was only there in neutral...it would go away when put in gear (because the neutral safety switch would shut off the current flow in gear). On this same boat I noticed awhile back that it sometimes took several seconds before the Smartcraft guages would turn off when the keyswitch was put in the off position. I didn't think that much of it because I had noted this on some other engines...but I think it was the beginning signs of keyswitch failure.
Keep us posted...this is an interesting problem.
jross036 posted 07-06-2008 04:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for jross036  Send Email to jross036     
you may want to have a look in the vapor separator, possibly the float or rubbish/sludge down in there.

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