posted 08-25-2008 10:38 AM ET (US)            

I torn apart my 1972 19' Outrage two winters ago. There are two concerns that came up: Do you reseat the tank in foam; how do you keep water from entering and settling in the tank cavity.

I did not use foam. Rather, I afixed 1/2-inch thick and about 4-inch wide slats of Starboard laterally to the bottom of the cavity with 5200. I placed these about every 10-inches. I then placed the tank on top of these slats and put 1/2-inch pieces of Starboard in the fore and aft gaps and the port and starboard gaps. I thought that the foam, when wet, stays wet and will cause problems in the future. Using the Starboard allows water to drain to the bottom of the cavity and allows some air to circulate around the tank.

The cavity on my Outrage left no place for water to drain in the event that water entered the cavity. So, I created a sump at the aft portion of the cavity. I used a 6-inch hole saw and cut through the inner fiberglass surface and foam hull core. Then I cut a few 6-inch round pieces of fiberglass matte to build up the outer hull surface from the inside of the sump to about 1/2" thick. I also use fiberglass matte to cover the exposed foam on the inside surfaces of hole I cut. I then installed a garboard drain in the sump so I could check for water and drain any if needed. When I store the boat in winter I remove the garboard drain plug and the pry-out plate covering the fuel fitting that is in the cockpit floor right behind the console. That lets air circulate around the tank and throughout the tank cavity during the winter.

While I resealed the hatch over the tank well and replaced the pry-out plate with a new one I still figured that water will find a way into the fuel tank cavity some way. That is why I build provisions for checking, draining and drying water that may end up there.

Good luck!

posted 08-25-2008 11:41 AM ET (US)            

While Dino's sump is one method, I would recommend Jeff Rolfling's technique of adding a bilge tube with strainer in the aft section, attached to the back wall and use a primeless pump. This skips cutting into the foam etc.

Check out photo #51 here: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outrageRestore2.html

posted 08-25-2008 12:35 PM ET (US)            

There was not room to install a bilge pump and if there had it would have been sealed in so well that if something ever happened to it that needed repair I would have had to dismantle the entire tank hatch and remove the tank to get at it. I considered installing a tube and bilge pump from the tank cavity to the bilge but elected the more passive system I installed because I thought it would accomplish the task in a simpler manner.

posted 08-27-2008 09:11 AM ET (US)            

I recommend you closely inspect the gelcoat/fiberglass in the rigging tunnels for deterioration, chips, etc and fix any you find.

If I were re-replacing the floor on my Outrage (i.e., if I had it to do over again), I would have changed the lay-up schedule of the plywood backing and added a 1/4" sheet of aluminum plate under the general areas for the leaning post and the console, so i could drill and tap screw holes to better anchor those components. I would also "build" the thickness where the perimeter screws attach the deck to the hull with fiberglass only, no wood. Then I would come back in from behind, and put an epoxy only plug behind each hole. When installing the deck again, I'd drill and tap that epoxy plug. This should eliminate the source of rot on the perimeter. Likewise, I'd overdrill the holes in the hull where those perimeter screws attached, and plug them with an epoxy plug. Once the deck is in place, drill and tap through the deck and into the hull and install the bolt to hld the deck down.

Some things to think about.

Personally, I'd re-foam the tank like Whaler did it, and just be vigilant to keep the area dry when the boat isn't in use (i.e. open the deck plates in storage).