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Author Topic:   Trailer Brakes

cc378 posted 09-08-2008 12:04 PM ET (US)
So the drum brakes on the trailer for my outage 22 are once again locked up. I flush and clean them but this is the second set. I tow with a Tundra, short distances but some highway. I am thinking of going without brakes? Does this make sense? If not any suggestions on brakes that can hold up to saltwater?
Thanks
SL
wyeisland posted 09-08-2008 02:25 PM ET (US)
I tow once a year for about 140 miles round trip. I also had a series of drum brakes. I removed the brakes this year and had no trouble, however I tow with a 250 truck, It has plenty of brakes. Also my route is very flat and I drive under 55 all the way. Not advise just the facts. Good luck
Tom W Clark posted 09-08-2008 02:27 PM ET (US)
I would not tow an Outrage 22 with a Tundra if the trailer did not have brakes (that work).
David Pendleton posted 09-08-2008 02:30 PM ET (US)
I agree with Tom. Have you attempted to determine why they locked up?
I had a lockup problem once, and it was a relatively easy fix (compared to replacing them).
You could always upgrade to discs.
David Pendleton posted 09-08-2008 02:31 PM ET (US)
I agree with Tom. Have you been able to determine the cause of the lockup?
I had a lockup problem once, and the solution was a relatively easy fix (compared to replacing them).
You could always upgrade to discs.
Jerry Townsend posted 09-08-2008 05:18 PM ET (US)
As others have mentioned - many(including myself) would not tow your boat with a Tundra. Point being - you are towing a lot of weight - and having the tail wag the dog is not a good idea. Plus, when you want to stop - you want to stop!
Having brakes (working) is, in my mind, a requisite - for safety and control.
Also check with your highway patrol - regarding requirements for brakes.
Check out replacement brake systems at http://www.northerntool.com/ where you can get virtually any trailer part desired. ---- Jerry/Idaho
andygere posted 09-08-2008 05:35 PM ET (US)
This year, I finally replaced my rusty drum brakes with a set of Kodiak stainless steel/silver cadmium plated disc brakes. I should have done this years ago! All components except the rotor are stainless, and the rotor is silver cad plated cast iron (for better heat dissipation). I am very pleased with these to date, and consider trailer brakes to be a critical safety item, even though I wet slip the boat just a few miles from my home. I do one or two highway trips per year, and I'm not willing to chance a wreck with my family in the truck to save a few bucks. My tow vehicle is a 3/4 ton Suburban, and the brakes are essential even with this very substantial tow rig.
andygere posted 09-08-2008 05:36 PM ET (US)
FYI, my boat is an Outrage 22 Cuddy.
jimh posted 09-09-2008 12:00 AM ET (US)
When I overhauled my trailer brakes earlier this year I decided to stick with hydraulic actuators, a surge coupler, and drum brakes. I used the galvanized TIE DOWN ENGINEERING drum brakes. I don't know how they will work in saltwater, but everything on them is galvanized or stainless steel. The drum assemblies retail for about $100 per wheel.
When you have a tandem axle trailer and all four wheels have working brakes, there is a considerable improvement in the stopping power compared to rusted, old, non-working brakes.
cc378 posted 09-09-2008 10:06 AM ET (US)
Thanks for all of the great advice. The repeated lockups are due to the activator inside the break freezing. Yes it has been fairly inexpensive to replace but a real head ache since it makes the trailer unreliable. Yes I flush and lubricate the brakes and it still happens.
Given your sound advice I am going to keep the breaks but look into upgrading to a better built system. I think I am going to explore Kodiak disks and Tie Down.
Tom W Clark posted 09-09-2008 10:21 AM ET (US)
My galvanized trailer is 19 years old. My Revenge 25 is launching and retrieved from saltwater only; always has been.
It has conventional drum brakes. I tow it with a Tundra.
In the four years I have owned it, the brakes have never given me trouble though I did have a rusted return spring one year.
I do not hose my trailer down...ever. I removed the flushing attachments on the brakes that it used to have.
The key to any trailer surviving with saltwater use is to immerse it wholly in fresh water after being dipped in saltwater. Sometimes I do this an hour after use in saltwater, sometimes a week later, but I always dip it in a lake.
wayne baker posted 09-09-2008 10:45 AM ET (US)
Change the brakes to disc for less chance of rusting up. Or change your tundra to the new 10,000 tow rated TUNDRA.
On the dipping the trailer. I went fishing with a guy once in salt water. On the way home we stopped to dip his Painted trailer in fresh water. I had a lot of fun with the guys at the ramp that kept trying to politely tell me my buddy forgot to take the straps off the boat.
contender posted 09-09-2008 12:18 PM ET (US)
Long time ago big boat trailers did no come with brakes, And yes salt water will eat your brakes especially drums. There is also a kit that attaches to the inside of the dust cover on the inside of your trailer and you can hook up to a garden hose to flush the brakes. Depending were you live (in the mountains or Fla. flat lands) I would get some brakes do to the size of your truck.(you might be able to get away with it in Fla (Florida's flat) but you need to drive safe) The best brakes that hold up to salt water are bronze, There is suppose to be a person in Naples Fla, that has and does the complete ridging for bronze disc brakes(I'm sure there are other places that does this conversion as well), or can send you the kit. I heard its not that cheap, and do not remember the place nor the guys name. I think the best system is a disc brakes with a hydraulic actuators on a surge coupler, need to make sure you have a power line/connection for the reverse lock...stop sure
RJG posted 09-09-2008 05:58 PM ET (US)
To answer your original question I would not eliminate the brake system.
I used to trailer a 22' Revenge WT WD short distances without brakes and it scared the heck out of me doing it. I would never trailer it if the threat of rain existed.
My new trailer has the set up described by Contender. I spend as much time cleaning my trailer brakes as I do the boat itself even though I launch in brackish(sp)water most of the time. When I do launch in salt water I hope to run through an afternoon thunder shower on the way home. Pretty predictable here in Fla.
Don't skimp on safety. Spend the money on a good brake system.
Mambo Minnow posted 09-15-2008 10:38 AM ET (US)
RJG - Even in the brackish St. Johns, it only took two years and I had to replace my drums.

How was boating this fall by the way? Hope to be home in December.

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Author	Topic: Trailer Brakes
cc378	posted 09-08-2008 12:04 PM ET (US) So the drum brakes on the trailer for my outage 22 are once again locked up. I flush and clean them but this is the second set. I tow with a Tundra, short distances but some highway. I am thinking of going without brakes? Does this make sense? If not any suggestions on brakes that can hold up to saltwater? Thanks SL
wyeisland	posted 09-08-2008 02:25 PM ET (US) I tow once a year for about 140 miles round trip. I also had a series of drum brakes. I removed the brakes this year and had no trouble, however I tow with a 250 truck, It has plenty of brakes. Also my route is very flat and I drive under 55 all the way. Not advise just the facts. Good luck
Tom W Clark	posted 09-08-2008 02:27 PM ET (US) I would not tow an Outrage 22 with a Tundra if the trailer did not have brakes (that work).
David Pendleton	posted 09-08-2008 02:30 PM ET (US) I agree with Tom. Have you attempted to determine why they locked up? I had a lockup problem once, and it was a relatively easy fix (compared to replacing them). You could always upgrade to discs.
David Pendleton	posted 09-08-2008 02:31 PM ET (US) I agree with Tom. Have you been able to determine the cause of the lockup? I had a lockup problem once, and the solution was a relatively easy fix (compared to replacing them). You could always upgrade to discs.
Jerry Townsend	posted 09-08-2008 05:18 PM ET (US) As others have mentioned - many(including myself) would not tow your boat with a Tundra. Point being - you are towing a lot of weight - and having the tail wag the dog is not a good idea. Plus, when you want to stop - you want to stop! Having brakes (working) is, in my mind, a requisite - for safety and control. Also check with your highway patrol - regarding requirements for brakes. Check out replacement brake systems at http://www.northerntool.com/ where you can get virtually any trailer part desired. ---- Jerry/Idaho
andygere	posted 09-08-2008 05:35 PM ET (US) This year, I finally replaced my rusty drum brakes with a set of Kodiak stainless steel/silver cadmium plated disc brakes. I should have done this years ago! All components except the rotor are stainless, and the rotor is silver cad plated cast iron (for better heat dissipation). I am very pleased with these to date, and consider trailer brakes to be a critical safety item, even though I wet slip the boat just a few miles from my home. I do one or two highway trips per year, and I'm not willing to chance a wreck with my family in the truck to save a few bucks. My tow vehicle is a 3/4 ton Suburban, and the brakes are essential even with this very substantial tow rig.
andygere	posted 09-08-2008 05:36 PM ET (US) FYI, my boat is an Outrage 22 Cuddy.
jimh	posted 09-09-2008 12:00 AM ET (US) When I overhauled my trailer brakes earlier this year I decided to stick with hydraulic actuators, a surge coupler, and drum brakes. I used the galvanized TIE DOWN ENGINEERING drum brakes. I don't know how they will work in saltwater, but everything on them is galvanized or stainless steel. The drum assemblies retail for about $100 per wheel. When you have a tandem axle trailer and all four wheels have working brakes, there is a considerable improvement in the stopping power compared to rusted, old, non-working brakes.
cc378	posted 09-09-2008 10:06 AM ET (US) Thanks for all of the great advice. The repeated lockups are due to the activator inside the break freezing. Yes it has been fairly inexpensive to replace but a real head ache since it makes the trailer unreliable. Yes I flush and lubricate the brakes and it still happens. Given your sound advice I am going to keep the breaks but look into upgrading to a better built system. I think I am going to explore Kodiak disks and Tie Down.
Tom W Clark	posted 09-09-2008 10:21 AM ET (US) My galvanized trailer is 19 years old. My Revenge 25 is launching and retrieved from saltwater only; always has been. It has conventional drum brakes. I tow it with a Tundra. In the four years I have owned it, the brakes have never given me trouble though I did have a rusted return spring one year. I do not hose my trailer down...ever. I removed the flushing attachments on the brakes that it used to have. The key to any trailer surviving with saltwater use is to immerse it wholly in fresh water after being dipped in saltwater. Sometimes I do this an hour after use in saltwater, sometimes a week later, but I always dip it in a lake.
wayne baker	posted 09-09-2008 10:45 AM ET (US) Change the brakes to disc for less chance of rusting up. Or change your tundra to the new 10,000 tow rated TUNDRA. On the dipping the trailer. I went fishing with a guy once in salt water. On the way home we stopped to dip his Painted trailer in fresh water. I had a lot of fun with the guys at the ramp that kept trying to politely tell me my buddy forgot to take the straps off the boat.
contender	posted 09-09-2008 12:18 PM ET (US) Long time ago big boat trailers did no come with brakes, And yes salt water will eat your brakes especially drums. There is also a kit that attaches to the inside of the dust cover on the inside of your trailer and you can hook up to a garden hose to flush the brakes. Depending were you live (in the mountains or Fla. flat lands) I would get some brakes do to the size of your truck.(you might be able to get away with it in Fla (Florida's flat) but you need to drive safe) The best brakes that hold up to salt water are bronze, There is suppose to be a person in Naples Fla, that has and does the complete ridging for bronze disc brakes(I'm sure there are other places that does this conversion as well), or can send you the kit. I heard its not that cheap, and do not remember the place nor the guys name. I think the best system is a disc brakes with a hydraulic actuators on a surge coupler, need to make sure you have a power line/connection for the reverse lock...stop sure
RJG	posted 09-09-2008 05:58 PM ET (US) To answer your original question I would not eliminate the brake system. I used to trailer a 22' Revenge WT WD short distances without brakes and it scared the heck out of me doing it. I would never trailer it if the threat of rain existed. My new trailer has the set up described by Contender. I spend as much time cleaning my trailer brakes as I do the boat itself even though I launch in brackish(sp)water most of the time. When I do launch in salt water I hope to run through an afternoon thunder shower on the way home. Pretty predictable here in Fla. Don't skimp on safety. Spend the money on a good brake system.
Mambo Minnow	posted 09-15-2008 10:38 AM ET (US) RJG - Even in the brackish St. Johns, it only took two years and I had to replace my drums. How was boating this fall by the way? Hope to be home in December.