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Author Topic:   3M 5200 Marine Adhesive

Vic633 posted 12-02-2008 10:14 AM ET (US)
A week ago I used [3M 5200 Marine Adhesive] to seal around a light fixture on my older 13, maybe not the best choice for the job but my problem is this, It's still wet, not tacky but wet. It's been 7 days in a warm garage and if I touch it my finger gets covered white, like it just came out of the tube. Anyone have experience with this product? The only two options I can see are either leave it alone until it becomes an issue, or clean it all out, remove all trace of the product and start with something different, but that is a huge undertaking.
Any thoughts?
Victoria

Tom W Clark posted 12-02-2008 10:20 AM ET (US)
Spray water on the caulk. Polyurethane cures by moisture.
Vic633 posted 12-02-2008 11:22 AM ET (US)
That would be a helpful addition to the instructions. What about parts that can not be exposed to water? Like underneath a fixture?
skred posted 12-02-2008 11:59 AM ET (US)
If you haven't wet the surface yet, I suggest removing as much as you can, then wetting all mating surfaces and re-applying the 5200. Use sparingly, since it often expands and squeezes out of joints.
Tom W Clark posted 12-02-2008 12:01 PM ET (US)
I just grabbed a tube of 5200 that I have here. The very first thing it says on the back is:
"A one-part polyurethane that chemically reacts with moisture to deliver strong, flexible bonds with excellent adhesion to wood and fiberglass."
The instructions also indicate a full cure can occur within seven days IF the temperature is 70 degrees F and the relative humidity is 50 percent.
Give it some water and be patient.
Tom W Clark posted 12-02-2008 12:03 PM ET (US)
While 3M 5200 is excellent for sealing screw holes you certainly do NOT want to bed something like a bow light on a Whaler with it.
If this is what you are trying to do, take this opportunity to remove the fixture, clean off the caulk and reinstall the light, sealing only the screw holes.
A2J15Sport posted 12-02-2008 02:24 PM ET (US)
What Tom said. I Use 4200 for "bedding" something.
5200 cures quickly, once wetted.
Vic633 posted 12-02-2008 03:19 PM ET (US)
My tube with part # 05203 says "Clean and dry all bonding surfaces. Do not apply product at temperatures below 4"C. At 21" 50% R.H. material becomes tack free in 48hrs completely cures in 7 days"
Maybe its really old stock,, or because it has French on it...
Why can’t I use it on the deck light? You know what a messy job it will be to clean it out and prepare it for some other sealer, but you still think its worth it?
Please explain.
Thanks
andygere posted 12-02-2008 03:50 PM ET (US)
The reason you don't want to use it to bed the deck lamp fixture is that you will never get it off again without damaging the gelcoat. 3M 5200 is an extremely strong adhesive. You'll be glad you used something different the next time you need to change the bulb.
Vic633 posted 12-02-2008 04:47 PM ET (US)
I can change the bulb from the top,,, but you make a good point, I never thought about the need to remove it in the future.
Thanks
kwik_wurk posted 12-02-2008 05:58 PM ET (US)
Is there any known difference in curing/bonding of 5200 with fresh water vs salt?
jimh posted 12-03-2008 11:47 PM ET (US)
You might enjoy reading my narrative about removing a through hull fitting that had been installed with a strong marine adhesive:

http://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/newDS/
wezie posted 12-04-2008 09:18 AM ET (US)
5200 is identified, labeled as an "Adhesive/Caulk", not the other way around.
Took me awhile to fully appreciate that distinction.
It is a wonderful product. "We" all went through our 5200 phase, and I still have some components bedded in it 23 years later; which I pray I never have to remove.
It does have some great applications!
I would take it off if you can, like some suggested.
Clean up is acetone or lacquer thinner, and gloves to keep you out of it and the thinners, if it is still soft. Most likely Murphy showed up during this discussion and cured it for you. If so, go fishing!
Good Luck
lizard posted 12-04-2008 10:17 AM ET (US)
Both 4200 and 5200 are now available in a quick set version, sets in reportedly 24 hours. I used the quick set 5200 for my transducer bracket mounting. When I attempted to use the regular 5200 I had the same problem described here.
The guy who owner the boat before me put every possible item imaginable in place with 5200, hence items on my console that would be nearly impossible to remove without damaging the console.
I would never use 5200 for anything I MIGHT have to maintain in the future. There is a marine silicone product that is better for the application of your light fixture.
Vic633 posted 12-04-2008 04:32 PM ET (US)
OK thanks,, so 5200 is out, what do you guys like for the job? I'm using it to seal a bow navigation light to the deck, there are 3 screws mounting it now that don’t have enough 'bite' for me. I've got a bunch of little kids that like to ride in the boat and they grab,pull push on anything they can get their hands on.
I can change the bulb from the top. I shouldn’t need to remove it--ever--I hope.
Roarque posted 12-04-2008 05:38 PM ET (US)
Sounds like the 3M 5200 adhesive/caulk would work to seal some old screw holes I have on the deck of my snowboard. This board is so old it doesn't have the pre-drilled and tapped holes that more modern boards have to mount bindings.
TransAm posted 12-04-2008 07:37 PM ET (US)
Use a marine silicone like BoatLIFE. Comes in white or clear. Fill the screw holes before installing and a thin layer between the light and fiberglass.
lizard posted 12-06-2008 11:01 AM ET (US)
Yes, [ a marine silicone like BoatLIFE] (the product TransAm is referring to) is the one I have used for applications like this.

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Author	Topic: 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive
Vic633	posted 12-02-2008 10:14 AM ET (US) A week ago I used [3M 5200 Marine Adhesive] to seal around a light fixture on my older 13, maybe not the best choice for the job but my problem is this, It's still wet, not tacky but wet. It's been 7 days in a warm garage and if I touch it my finger gets covered white, like it just came out of the tube. Anyone have experience with this product? The only two options I can see are either leave it alone until it becomes an issue, or clean it all out, remove all trace of the product and start with something different, but that is a huge undertaking. Any thoughts? Victoria
Tom W Clark	posted 12-02-2008 10:20 AM ET (US) Spray water on the caulk. Polyurethane cures by moisture.
Vic633	posted 12-02-2008 11:22 AM ET (US) That would be a helpful addition to the instructions. What about parts that can not be exposed to water? Like underneath a fixture?
skred	posted 12-02-2008 11:59 AM ET (US) If you haven't wet the surface yet, I suggest removing as much as you can, then wetting all mating surfaces and re-applying the 5200. Use sparingly, since it often expands and squeezes out of joints.
Tom W Clark	posted 12-02-2008 12:01 PM ET (US) I just grabbed a tube of 5200 that I have here. The very first thing it says on the back is: "A one-part polyurethane that chemically reacts with moisture to deliver strong, flexible bonds with excellent adhesion to wood and fiberglass." The instructions also indicate a full cure can occur within seven days IF the temperature is 70 degrees F and the relative humidity is 50 percent. Give it some water and be patient.
Tom W Clark	posted 12-02-2008 12:03 PM ET (US) While 3M 5200 is excellent for sealing screw holes you certainly do NOT want to bed something like a bow light on a Whaler with it. If this is what you are trying to do, take this opportunity to remove the fixture, clean off the caulk and reinstall the light, sealing only the screw holes.
A2J15Sport	posted 12-02-2008 02:24 PM ET (US) What Tom said. I Use 4200 for "bedding" something. 5200 cures quickly, once wetted.
Vic633	posted 12-02-2008 03:19 PM ET (US) My tube with part # 05203 says "Clean and dry all bonding surfaces. Do not apply product at temperatures below 4"C. At 21" 50% R.H. material becomes tack free in 48hrs completely cures in 7 days" Maybe its really old stock,, or because it has French on it... Why can’t I use it on the deck light? You know what a messy job it will be to clean it out and prepare it for some other sealer, but you still think its worth it? Please explain. Thanks
andygere	posted 12-02-2008 03:50 PM ET (US) The reason you don't want to use it to bed the deck lamp fixture is that you will never get it off again without damaging the gelcoat. 3M 5200 is an extremely strong adhesive. You'll be glad you used something different the next time you need to change the bulb.
Vic633	posted 12-02-2008 04:47 PM ET (US) I can change the bulb from the top,,, but you make a good point, I never thought about the need to remove it in the future. Thanks
kwik_wurk	posted 12-02-2008 05:58 PM ET (US) Is there any known difference in curing/bonding of 5200 with fresh water vs salt?
jimh	posted 12-03-2008 11:47 PM ET (US) You might enjoy reading my narrative about removing a through hull fitting that had been installed with a strong marine adhesive: http://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/newDS/
wezie	posted 12-04-2008 09:18 AM ET (US) 5200 is identified, labeled as an "Adhesive/Caulk", not the other way around. Took me awhile to fully appreciate that distinction. It is a wonderful product. "We" all went through our 5200 phase, and I still have some components bedded in it 23 years later; which I pray I never have to remove. It does have some great applications! I would take it off if you can, like some suggested. Clean up is acetone or lacquer thinner, and gloves to keep you out of it and the thinners, if it is still soft. Most likely Murphy showed up during this discussion and cured it for you. If so, go fishing! Good Luck
lizard	posted 12-04-2008 10:17 AM ET (US) Both 4200 and 5200 are now available in a quick set version, sets in reportedly 24 hours. I used the quick set 5200 for my transducer bracket mounting. When I attempted to use the regular 5200 I had the same problem described here. The guy who owner the boat before me put every possible item imaginable in place with 5200, hence items on my console that would be nearly impossible to remove without damaging the console. I would never use 5200 for anything I MIGHT have to maintain in the future. There is a marine silicone product that is better for the application of your light fixture.
Vic633	posted 12-04-2008 04:32 PM ET (US) OK thanks,, so 5200 is out, what do you guys like for the job? I'm using it to seal a bow navigation light to the deck, there are 3 screws mounting it now that don’t have enough 'bite' for me. I've got a bunch of little kids that like to ride in the boat and they grab,pull push on anything they can get their hands on. I can change the bulb from the top. I shouldn’t need to remove it--ever--I hope.
Roarque	posted 12-04-2008 05:38 PM ET (US) Sounds like the 3M 5200 adhesive/caulk would work to seal some old screw holes I have on the deck of my snowboard. This board is so old it doesn't have the pre-drilled and tapped holes that more modern boards have to mount bindings.
TransAm	posted 12-04-2008 07:37 PM ET (US) Use a marine silicone like BoatLIFE. Comes in white or clear. Fill the screw holes before installing and a thin layer between the light and fiberglass.
lizard	posted 12-06-2008 11:01 AM ET (US) Yes, [ a marine silicone like BoatLIFE] (the product TransAm is referring to) is the one I have used for applications like this.