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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods Repairing Loose Console on Montauk
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Author | Topic: Repairing Loose Console on Montauk |
Landlocked |
posted 03-11-2009 11:23 AM ET (US)
My console has been loose for several years. Finally got around to dealing with the problem last night. The original Mahogany mounting blocks are completely rotted out. I made exact copies out of treated pine. Actually cut down a 2x6's to 2" so that I could use only the heart wood of the board. I had one that was cut from the center of the log based on growth rings. I plan on trying to stain it as dark as possible tonight and then cover with a few coats of epiphanes I have left from refinishing the rest of the boat. Has anyone else used treated wood (pine) for this application? Just wondering what kind of service life I can expect. Not really worried about appearance since the blocks barely show. I don't have a convenient source for mahogany here. Considered using aluminum angle but couldn't figure out how to re-install the factory trim pieces on the outside of the console if I did. Ll. |
Phil T |
posted 03-11-2009 02:44 PM ET (US)
Most pressure treated lumber is of poor quality material. You will get a longer life with a clear piece of white cedar or other species. Then again, contact Mike Stennent (sp?) at Nautical lumber. I am sure he can fab up two pieces for you. |
beantown |
posted 03-11-2009 03:35 PM ET (US)
The same thing happened on my console, the pieces we completely rotted. I found some mahogany shorts on ebay, they we the perfect size, and were kind of cheap. I just typed in mahogany lumber on ebay. I cut them to size, sanded and coated with epoxy. I hope they with last a long time. I read somewhere that pressure treated wood is not good to use on boats. Just my two cents... |
Landlocked |
posted 03-11-2009 04:44 PM ET (US)
I bought some mahogany from Mike a while back and was very pleased. Unfortunately, I'm in a time and budget crunch for this project. I think by ripping down to the heartwood, I've got some pretty good material to work with. It's almost completely free of knots and what's there are very small. It's also been drying in my shop for about 6 months now. May end up doing this again in a few years, we'll see. But, I've seen treated posts that have held up for years in the ground. As far as use on boats, I suspect that is due to concerns over CCA contamination. CCA is no longer used in the treatment process. Since no one else seems to have done this, I guess we'll consider it an experiment!. I'll post some results in a few years (hopefully) Ll. |
Chuck Tribolet |
posted 03-11-2009 08:24 PM ET (US)
The pine will very likely get you through this season or more, esp. if you make efforts to keep it dry. But it's not the long-term answer. Be watching for a deal on GOOD mahogany (there's a lot of crap) or better, teak. And next winter swap out the pine.
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Tom W Clark |
posted 03-11-2009 08:36 PM ET (US)
You do not want to use pressure treated lumber in a Whaler, it is nasty, corrosive stuff and not always as rot-proof as most folks think. If I were doing a console cleat replacement now (and I've owned a Montauk with cleats that let go) I would use King Starboard, not Mahogany or Teak (which would work well be be expensive). Good comments here: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/016250.html |
Landlocked |
posted 03-11-2009 10:33 PM ET (US)
I appreciate the comments and advice. That's why I posted the question. I've had the Montauk now for about 10 years. I bought it to replace an Outrage that was just too much for me to comfortably tow back and forth between here (Nashville) and the gulf coast. Since buying the boat, I've removed and re-finished the wood 3 times prior to this effort. The first two times, I used only teak oil. The third I used Epiphanes for Teak. I sanded, re-sanded, added coat upon coat. Then, when I found a small run on the bottom of the anchor locker hatch, I sanded and added additional coats. The end result was a finish that was fit for a fine piece of furniture! Then, I took the boat to the water and found myself cringing each time my kid's sand covered flip flops touched the emaculate finish. This time around, I'm taking a different approach. I'm tired of working so hard to make the boat perfect that it takes away from my enjoyment of actually using it. I removed the wood once again and gave it a quick sand but not quite as detailed as what I've done in the past. I covered it with 5 coats of Epiphanes, but I didn't worry so much about the bubbles or the runs. Just got a good coat on to protect the wood. You know what I've found? Everyone that looks at it compliments me on how good the wood looks. I'm the only one that notices the few bubbles in the finish! The decision to go with treated pine was a spur of the moment thing. The console was suspended from my shop winch above the boat and I was measuring and figuring what I needed when I glance over in the corner and saw the piece of treated wood laying in the corner and said to myself "Why Not?" I put a heavy coat of stain on the pine tonight and it now closely approximates the color of mahogany. Once I add 4-5 coats of epiphanes, I think it will blend well- Especially given the fact that it will be in the shade underneath the center console and barely visible. Structurally, I don't think there will be a difference. The original toe nail screws installed by the factory went through the trim piece, through the console and the mahogany and into the fiberglass and imbedded wood of the boat bottom. The new screws will do the same. I'm going up a size on the screws and taking the extra step of filling the old holes and re-drilling. My point in this dissertation is not to seek approval, I know it's blasphemy, but - to point out an alternate approach to maintenance to those it might apply to. I think we can get so caught up in the "Keep it original and perfect" train of thought that it actually begins to take away from the enjoyment of our boats. Again, just an experiment. I may come crawling back to the group with questions on how to correct my errors in the future. We'll see. Right now, I'm pretty proud of the fact that the boat looks great and I've only spent a week and 60 bucks on a can of epiphanes. I'm planning on using it hard this summer without having to worry about the hours and hours I put into the finish. Next on the list.... I'm going to re-paint the bottom! I've been letting the paint the previous owner put on wear off little by little over the last ten years; helped along by an occasional pressure wash. My wife has convinced me it would actually be an improvement if I just repainted it. You know what - I think she may be right! Ll. |
Tohsgib |
posted 03-12-2009 10:51 AM ET (US)
I made cooler chocks from treated wood and they lasted ...well they are still around after 7 years or so. |
Landlocked |
posted 03-12-2009 12:49 PM ET (US)
Man, If I can get 7 years out of this, I'll be tickled pink! Kid #3, will be out of daycare by then. Maybe I'll actually be able to afford mahogany. Ll. |
Kookadala |
posted 03-21-2009 11:49 AM ET (US)
The console mounting wood on my 1980 outrage is also rotted. I first considered using that TREX artificial deck material since the blocks are under the console and not visible. Now I am considering using aluminum angle. Is there any reason to not use wood for this purpose? I mean will I lose flexibility if I go with aluminum angle? |
Waccamaw Whaler |
posted 03-21-2009 01:06 PM ET (US)
My 1993 Outrage has an aluminum angle with one leg bolted on the outside of the console (with 6 screws - I think). The other leg is bolted to the deck with 8 screws. A length of what looks to be white King Starboard is then screwed on top of the exposed angle to hide it with 4 screws. http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii268/WhalerRon/Miscellaneous/ ConsoleHolddown.jpg |
Kookadala |
posted 03-21-2009 04:02 PM ET (US)
Thanks Wac, looks good to me. I still have the original wood strip for the outside of the console, its in good shape, just need to replace the part beneath the console. Looks like aluminum angle works fine! |
dfmcintyre |
posted 03-21-2009 05:10 PM ET (US)
If you cen keep the wwater from penetrating the wood, you've got most of the problem solved. The varnish is a great idea, but you want to coat very well, any screw holes that you make in the piece to mount it. Otherwise you'll end up re-doing it at a later date. I wanted to raise my console and did what a number of other members have done; fabricated "risers" about 4"x4"x(length of console) out of 1" oak, laminated together. Coated with two coats of epoxy, neet and then sprayed the same color as the console. The risers were drilled, re-coating the drill holes, and bedded on a coating of 3M 5200 on the floor. The console was then mounted with wood screws to the risers. What's important, again is sealing the wood by either varnish, epoxy or both to keep the water away. Don |
mateobosch |
posted 03-25-2009 07:59 PM ET (US)
I had custom fit starboard made for my console base with a CNC laser. It is the stongest and best way to fix up your console. If you want something made, my friend still has the program he made for my console in his computer and I could get a price for you. Matt |
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