Repair of Stress Cracks; Applying Barrier Paint

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Author Topic:   Repair of Stress Cracks; Applying Barrier Paint

ttboy posted 04-21-2009 12:41 PM ET (US)
Hi. [I] have a 1974 Revenge 19. [I am] working on minting-out the topside, above the water line. There were about 100 gel coat stress cracks around the boat, and most of them on the flats of the boat. So [I] took a [DREMEL] tool and opened up the cracks. Now it is time to start back filling them in. [I] started doing this using a gel coat and cabasal mixture. The problem with this is [I] can only mix up a small bit at a time, and, after [I] apply it and it drys, it shrinks. [I] have to re-apply. This is taking too much time that [I] don't have. Can [I] use a fiberglass resin to fill in the cracks?
Spraying the topside is not an option.
[I] wanted to brush on [Interlux brand] barrier paint. Is [applying Interlux-brand barrier paint by brushing it on] recommended?
jimh posted 04-21-2009 01:00 PM ET (US)
Hello. Congratulations on having a fine classic Boston Whaler REVENGE 19. Your plan to "mint-out" the topsides above the water line sounds good. Minting out the topside below the waterline can be more difficult.
I'll leave your questions about filling stress cracks to others. I have not had much success at that repair.
Regarding barrier paint, you seem to have three parts to your question:
--is barrier paint needed?
--is barrier paint applied by brush?
--is Interlux a good brand for barrier paint?
Boston Whaler has historically recommended that their fiberglass boat hulls be protected by a barrier coat if the boat is to be left in the water for more than a few days. Cf:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/maintenance. html#bottom
Deciding how to apply the barrier coat depends on your goals for overall appearance of the boat when it is not in the water. Many owners prefer that their boats do not show any sign of having a barrier coat when on the trailer, and for those owners a smoother finish to the barrier coat is important. If you can live with a brushed on finish, I do not think there are any prohibitions against brushing the barrier coat. I defer to the paint manufacturer for advice on this.
As for a brand, I will leave that to others. My boat does not have a barrier coating.
jimh posted 04-21-2009 01:07 PM ET (US)
Hello, again. I should have mentioned that Boston Whaler has also provide detailed instructions on repair of gel coat surfaces. See:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/maintenance. html#gelcoat
There are hyperlinks embedded in that text which will lead you to more advice on making repairs to the gel coat surface of your 1974 Boston Whaler REVENGE 19.
ttboy posted 04-21-2009 04:10 PM ET (US)
Thank you for the reply. Your web site has been an unbelievable help to me for a very long time and has given me lots of help. But more then help, it has given me a great deal of confidence to work on the many Boston Whaler boats that [I] have had over the years.
This boat has been the biggest challenge yet. The boat had years of bottom paint on it that [I] sanded off. Then [I] filled in any little problems below the water line and set up to spray the bottom with Spectrum gel coat. The day came to spray and [I] had my friend come over to help. He was going to mix the gel coat and have it ready as my spray container was near empty. All goes well and the job comes out mint. I'm so happy and can't stop looking at this boat. After some time goes by [I] realize that nothing is drying. As you know my friend forgot to add something during the mixing. Yes he still is my friend.
[I] got all that gel coat off and that's where I am now. [I] say never again will [I] spray.
What I would lke to do is fill the stress cracks topside and brush the whole boat with the barrier coat. I have had it with the boat at this point. I am just looking to get back in the water. The boat will always be on a trailer and never left in the water. I replaced the rub rail and had a fuel tank made for the boat. All is done. If [I] can get out of this mess I am in now I will have the boat another 30 years. What do you think?
RM NY posted 04-21-2009 04:38 PM ET (US)
Barrier coat by itself is not a UV stable coating and will end up looking terrible by itself.
You can however use Interlux 2000E barrier coat as a "no sand" primer prior to topcoating. Meaning you can apply the 2000E and in the specified time frame which will vary according to temperature that day you can paint right over it without having to sand it.
So you may want to change your plan and brush some of Interlux's Perfection over the 2000E as a finish coating, otherwise your boat wont be that minted out and your hard work up to that point will be wasted.
For below the waterline you can also use the Perfection, but it is not suggested that you leave the boat in the water for more then a few days at a time.
Blackduck posted 04-21-2009 05:01 PM ET (US)
I think the one thing you do not want to do, is to apply a barrier coating. A barrier coat is ment to be top coated with a bottom paint, as a preventative action to stop hull blisters. You really want to buy some more gelcoat and spray the area in question. You've done all the hard work, and for a boat that is going to stay on a trailer , it;s the right way to go.
ttboy posted 04-21-2009 05:10 PM ET (US)
[Wants more details about the Perfection paint.]
RM NY posted 04-21-2009 05:18 PM ET (US)
Interlux's 2000E, which is considered a barrier coat when you apply the proper amount of mils, can also be used as a no-sand primer prior to topcoat application when you brush or roll on a single coat, perfect for brush applications or applications where you dont want to sand- like a bilge.
Perfection is a 2 part polyurethane, so it is a chemical cure. It would not be a wise choice to use any air dry enamels on the boat.
dg22 posted 04-21-2009 05:28 PM ET (US)
I had good results with Interlux Brightside which is a 1 part topside paint and is very easy to use. Since I don't have much experience with this sort of thing I chose this method. I used a foam roller and my daughter followed with a foam brush in a criss-cross motion to remove the paint bubbles. I think this is called "roll and tip". Most likely the same approach would work with barrier coat but you'd be best to check with Interlux. I think the paint needs to have self-leveling properties.
I filled the spider cracks with a 2 part Marine filler (3M) and sanded using a rotary sander. I read that it is very important to use a fiberglass solevant wash to clean the surface before filling, priming, etc.
The best advice I can give is follow exactly what the paint manufacture says on the paint can.
Good luck with your project.
acseatsri posted 04-21-2009 08:56 PM ET (US)
See this thread. It will answer a lot of your questions.
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/016009.html
R T M posted 04-22-2009 08:26 PM ET (US)
You need to sand the areas with the spider cracks down to the glass hull. It is the only way to eliminate these cracks. The methods that you are doing and propose, will not work, and are in fact more work time consuming and expensive than doing the job the right way.
rich/Binkie
dg22 posted 04-22-2009 09:28 PM ET (US)
RTM is correct. When I did my boat, I did not sand the spider cracks down to the glass and some came back in less than a year.
ttboy posted 04-24-2009 10:26 AM ET (US)
RTM if I use the dremel on the cracks and take them done to the glass and a little passed each one is that not the same as sanding down the whole area? Also I picked up the primekote primer. So I just wanted to check with you guys I. Plane on brushing the interlux perfection on over the primekote is that right? Also am I sanding between all primer coats or just the last one? And with the perfection I'm I sanding between coats?thank you. YOU ALL KNOW THAT THIS IS ALL PART OF THE WHALER SICKNESS WE HAVE!!
ttboy posted 04-24-2009 10:30 AM ET (US)
By the way I'm thinking of doing the whole boat above and below H20 line this way one shot.
gsull posted 04-25-2009 08:50 AM ET (US)
I have a 1968 13 footer and i was wondering if a barrier coat(interlux 2000e) is the same thing as a primer?
gsull posted 04-25-2009 08:53 AM ET (US)
Do i have to sand between coats withe the 2000e of is it self leveling? Do i have to sand between coats of perfection also?
acseatsri posted 04-26-2009 06:16 PM ET (US)
When I did my boat, I just did the spider crackes until they were smooth, then put on the FIRST coat of Primecote thinned out until it very thin. This ran into the cracks and sealed them nicely. With subsequent coats, I just thinned it normally and rolled it on fairly heavily with a foam roller. It took about 3 coats in most areas to cover the cracks.
I sanded between ALL coats of paint, both primer & Perfection, albeit lightly on the final coats.
I found that a 4" foam roller worked best, and did NOT try to tip it out after my first attempt. Tipping made it look worse, in my opinion.
aquaholic3720 posted 04-27-2009 09:40 PM ET (US)
I am restoring a 1961 Whaler 13 sport and have as many if not more spider cracks than you are discribing. I have been grinding them out with a Dremel and filling with fiberglass resin mixed with fairing powder to give it a non-run consistency. 2 things I recommend are 1) when opening the cracks with the Dremel tool, make sure you make a small circle or line at the end of the opening you are making or the crack will reappear and become even longer even after you have top coated. 2) Mix the fairing powder in the resin to the thickness you want BEFORE you add your hardener. This method has worked very well for me on previous repairs and it is not that hard to do. The resin sets up fairly quickly has minimal shrinkage if any. Good luck and enjoy your project when your done. It is definately a "Labor of Love". jon
ttboy posted 04-27-2009 11:12 PM ET (US)
How about using bondo for filling in the cracks?does any know anything in regards to this

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Author	Topic: Repair of Stress Cracks; Applying Barrier Paint
ttboy	posted 04-21-2009 12:41 PM ET (US) Hi. [I] have a 1974 Revenge 19. [I am] working on minting-out the topside, above the water line. There were about 100 gel coat stress cracks around the boat, and most of them on the flats of the boat. So [I] took a [DREMEL] tool and opened up the cracks. Now it is time to start back filling them in. [I] started doing this using a gel coat and cabasal mixture. The problem with this is [I] can only mix up a small bit at a time, and, after [I] apply it and it drys, it shrinks. [I] have to re-apply. This is taking too much time that [I] don't have. Can [I] use a fiberglass resin to fill in the cracks? Spraying the topside is not an option. [I] wanted to brush on [Interlux brand] barrier paint. Is [applying Interlux-brand barrier paint by brushing it on] recommended?
jimh	posted 04-21-2009 01:00 PM ET (US) Hello. Congratulations on having a fine classic Boston Whaler REVENGE 19. Your plan to "mint-out" the topsides above the water line sounds good. Minting out the topside below the waterline can be more difficult. I'll leave your questions about filling stress cracks to others. I have not had much success at that repair. Regarding barrier paint, you seem to have three parts to your question: --is barrier paint needed? --is barrier paint applied by brush? --is Interlux a good brand for barrier paint? Boston Whaler has historically recommended that their fiberglass boat hulls be protected by a barrier coat if the boat is to be left in the water for more than a few days. Cf: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/maintenance. html#bottom Deciding how to apply the barrier coat depends on your goals for overall appearance of the boat when it is not in the water. Many owners prefer that their boats do not show any sign of having a barrier coat when on the trailer, and for those owners a smoother finish to the barrier coat is important. If you can live with a brushed on finish, I do not think there are any prohibitions against brushing the barrier coat. I defer to the paint manufacturer for advice on this. As for a brand, I will leave that to others. My boat does not have a barrier coating.
jimh	posted 04-21-2009 01:07 PM ET (US) Hello, again. I should have mentioned that Boston Whaler has also provide detailed instructions on repair of gel coat surfaces. See: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/maintenance. html#gelcoat There are hyperlinks embedded in that text which will lead you to more advice on making repairs to the gel coat surface of your 1974 Boston Whaler REVENGE 19.
ttboy	posted 04-21-2009 04:10 PM ET (US) Thank you for the reply. Your web site has been an unbelievable help to me for a very long time and has given me lots of help. But more then help, it has given me a great deal of confidence to work on the many Boston Whaler boats that [I] have had over the years. This boat has been the biggest challenge yet. The boat had years of bottom paint on it that [I] sanded off. Then [I] filled in any little problems below the water line and set up to spray the bottom with Spectrum gel coat. The day came to spray and [I] had my friend come over to help. He was going to mix the gel coat and have it ready as my spray container was near empty. All goes well and the job comes out mint. I'm so happy and can't stop looking at this boat. After some time goes by [I] realize that nothing is drying. As you know my friend forgot to add something during the mixing. Yes he still is my friend. [I] got all that gel coat off and that's where I am now. [I] say never again will [I] spray. What I would lke to do is fill the stress cracks topside and brush the whole boat with the barrier coat. I have had it with the boat at this point. I am just looking to get back in the water. The boat will always be on a trailer and never left in the water. I replaced the rub rail and had a fuel tank made for the boat. All is done. If [I] can get out of this mess I am in now I will have the boat another 30 years. What do you think?
RM NY	posted 04-21-2009 04:38 PM ET (US) Barrier coat by itself is not a UV stable coating and will end up looking terrible by itself. You can however use Interlux 2000E barrier coat as a "no sand" primer prior to topcoating. Meaning you can apply the 2000E and in the specified time frame which will vary according to temperature that day you can paint right over it without having to sand it. So you may want to change your plan and brush some of Interlux's Perfection over the 2000E as a finish coating, otherwise your boat wont be that minted out and your hard work up to that point will be wasted. For below the waterline you can also use the Perfection, but it is not suggested that you leave the boat in the water for more then a few days at a time.
Blackduck	posted 04-21-2009 05:01 PM ET (US) I think the one thing you do not want to do, is to apply a barrier coating. A barrier coat is ment to be top coated with a bottom paint, as a preventative action to stop hull blisters. You really want to buy some more gelcoat and spray the area in question. You've done all the hard work, and for a boat that is going to stay on a trailer , it;s the right way to go.
ttboy	posted 04-21-2009 05:10 PM ET (US) [Wants more details about the Perfection paint.]
RM NY	posted 04-21-2009 05:18 PM ET (US) Interlux's 2000E, which is considered a barrier coat when you apply the proper amount of mils, can also be used as a no-sand primer prior to topcoat application when you brush or roll on a single coat, perfect for brush applications or applications where you dont want to sand- like a bilge. Perfection is a 2 part polyurethane, so it is a chemical cure. It would not be a wise choice to use any air dry enamels on the boat.
dg22	posted 04-21-2009 05:28 PM ET (US) I had good results with Interlux Brightside which is a 1 part topside paint and is very easy to use. Since I don't have much experience with this sort of thing I chose this method. I used a foam roller and my daughter followed with a foam brush in a criss-cross motion to remove the paint bubbles. I think this is called "roll and tip". Most likely the same approach would work with barrier coat but you'd be best to check with Interlux. I think the paint needs to have self-leveling properties. I filled the spider cracks with a 2 part Marine filler (3M) and sanded using a rotary sander. I read that it is very important to use a fiberglass solevant wash to clean the surface before filling, priming, etc. The best advice I can give is follow exactly what the paint manufacture says on the paint can. Good luck with your project.
acseatsri	posted 04-21-2009 08:56 PM ET (US) See this thread. It will answer a lot of your questions. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/016009.html
R T M	posted 04-22-2009 08:26 PM ET (US) You need to sand the areas with the spider cracks down to the glass hull. It is the only way to eliminate these cracks. The methods that you are doing and propose, will not work, and are in fact more work time consuming and expensive than doing the job the right way. rich/Binkie
dg22	posted 04-22-2009 09:28 PM ET (US) RTM is correct. When I did my boat, I did not sand the spider cracks down to the glass and some came back in less than a year.
ttboy	posted 04-24-2009 10:26 AM ET (US) RTM if I use the dremel on the cracks and take them done to the glass and a little passed each one is that not the same as sanding down the whole area? Also I picked up the primekote primer. So I just wanted to check with you guys I. Plane on brushing the interlux perfection on over the primekote is that right? Also am I sanding between all primer coats or just the last one? And with the perfection I'm I sanding between coats?thank you. YOU ALL KNOW THAT THIS IS ALL PART OF THE WHALER SICKNESS WE HAVE!!
ttboy	posted 04-24-2009 10:30 AM ET (US) By the way I'm thinking of doing the whole boat above and below H20 line this way one shot.
gsull	posted 04-25-2009 08:50 AM ET (US) I have a 1968 13 footer and i was wondering if a barrier coat(interlux 2000e) is the same thing as a primer?
gsull	posted 04-25-2009 08:53 AM ET (US) Do i have to sand between coats withe the 2000e of is it self leveling? Do i have to sand between coats of perfection also?
acseatsri	posted 04-26-2009 06:16 PM ET (US) When I did my boat, I just did the spider crackes until they were smooth, then put on the FIRST coat of Primecote thinned out until it very thin. This ran into the cracks and sealed them nicely. With subsequent coats, I just thinned it normally and rolled it on fairly heavily with a foam roller. It took about 3 coats in most areas to cover the cracks. I sanded between ALL coats of paint, both primer & Perfection, albeit lightly on the final coats. I found that a 4" foam roller worked best, and did NOT try to tip it out after my first attempt. Tipping made it look worse, in my opinion.
aquaholic3720	posted 04-27-2009 09:40 PM ET (US) I am restoring a 1961 Whaler 13 sport and have as many if not more spider cracks than you are discribing. I have been grinding them out with a Dremel and filling with fiberglass resin mixed with fairing powder to give it a non-run consistency. 2 things I recommend are 1) when opening the cracks with the Dremel tool, make sure you make a small circle or line at the end of the opening you are making or the crack will reappear and become even longer even after you have top coated. 2) Mix the fairing powder in the resin to the thickness you want BEFORE you add your hardener. This method has worked very well for me on previous repairs and it is not that hard to do. The resin sets up fairly quickly has minimal shrinkage if any. Good luck and enjoy your project when your done. It is definately a "Labor of Love". jon
ttboy	posted 04-27-2009 11:12 PM ET (US) How about using bondo for filling in the cracks?does any know anything in regards to this