Keel work needed, how to jack boat off trailer?

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Author Topic:   Keel work needed, how to jack boat off trailer?

SJH posted 06-04-2009 04:25 PM ET (US)
Fiberglass is chipped off a portion of the front of the keel. Eight or so years ago, I built up a section with Formula 27. It seemed to work real good and is still holding. Should I continue using this?
Second question. What's the best way to jack the boat up off the front rollers of the trailer, so I can work on the keel? (bunks in the back) I have a 1989, 17ft Newport. Right now, there is not engine on it. Should I build some kind of a brace that will fit the keel (where I place the jack), and then jack it up? The jack would be placed just about under the seats in front of the console.
I'm new at this fix it stuff. Any advice?
Stan
Note: I'll be off the internet for a couple of days, so thanks in advance.
Buckda posted 06-04-2009 04:47 PM ET (US)
Stan -
It's probably safest to take the boat completely off the trailer and use boat stands and keel blocks to support the hull - like in a boat yard. That will provide lateral support while you grind and work on the keel. Leaving the trailer underneath will restrict your access and not provide any lateral support.
There are plenty of posts about how to do this. In fact, my 18' Outrage is on blocks in my driveway right now.
Start by gathering the materials you will need. I used cinder tiles for the foundation for my support, because I have a gravel driveway. Atop the tiles, I used 4x6 lumber to support the keel at 3 locations and 2x6 lumber to support the outer sides of the hull.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30436033&l=5c2e7f102c& id=1383963684
Tie the back of the boat to a firm object - a post or tree works well.
Then slowly pull the trailer out from under the boat, supporting the keel as you go and then erecting the supports for the outer sides of the hull. I used sturdy cardboard to soften the edges on the lumber.
Good luck.
Dave
Jefecinco posted 06-05-2009 10:13 AM ET (US)
Because all the work you mention is on the forward portion of the boat I see no advantage to removing it from the trailer unless you need to elevate the keel so you can do the work while standing.
I believe a safe way to elevate the keel is to first use chocks to secure the trailer tires front and rear. Next use a donut type device to secure the tongue jack wheel. The rear tie down straps should be in place and snugged down to maintain the transom in place on the trailer bunks. Use the tongue jack to raise the bow all the way. Next lower the bow about two inches. Place a board approximately 2 feet in length by eight inches in width and two inches thick beneath the keel but forward of the center of balance of the keel. Place one or two jack stands beneath the center line of the board. The board may be moved forward or backward in order to obtain a snug fit with the jack stands and the keel. DO NOT move the board behind the center of balance of the keel. Because the engine is not installed on your boat the center of balance may be more forward than expected. Be careful.
Once the board has been positiond to your satisfaction lower the front of the trailer by raising the tounge jack wheel thus lowering the trailer away from the keel. Proceed slowly in order to determine that the board and jack stands supporting the keel are properly positioned.
Reverse the procedure when done.
I do this with my Dauntless 16 every couple of years to wax the keel area and those parts of the bottom where the bunks otherwise don't allow waxing. Clearly, this method does not allow waxing of the rearmost few inches of the hull in way of the bunks.
Butch

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Author	Topic: Keel work needed, how to jack boat off trailer?
SJH	posted 06-04-2009 04:25 PM ET (US) Fiberglass is chipped off a portion of the front of the keel. Eight or so years ago, I built up a section with Formula 27. It seemed to work real good and is still holding. Should I continue using this? Second question. What's the best way to jack the boat up off the front rollers of the trailer, so I can work on the keel? (bunks in the back) I have a 1989, 17ft Newport. Right now, there is not engine on it. Should I build some kind of a brace that will fit the keel (where I place the jack), and then jack it up? The jack would be placed just about under the seats in front of the console. I'm new at this fix it stuff. Any advice? Stan Note: I'll be off the internet for a couple of days, so thanks in advance.
Buckda	posted 06-04-2009 04:47 PM ET (US) Stan - It's probably safest to take the boat completely off the trailer and use boat stands and keel blocks to support the hull - like in a boat yard. That will provide lateral support while you grind and work on the keel. Leaving the trailer underneath will restrict your access and not provide any lateral support. There are plenty of posts about how to do this. In fact, my 18' Outrage is on blocks in my driveway right now. Start by gathering the materials you will need. I used cinder tiles for the foundation for my support, because I have a gravel driveway. Atop the tiles, I used 4x6 lumber to support the keel at 3 locations and 2x6 lumber to support the outer sides of the hull. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30436033&l=5c2e7f102c& id=1383963684 Tie the back of the boat to a firm object - a post or tree works well. Then slowly pull the trailer out from under the boat, supporting the keel as you go and then erecting the supports for the outer sides of the hull. I used sturdy cardboard to soften the edges on the lumber. Good luck. Dave
Jefecinco	posted 06-05-2009 10:13 AM ET (US) Because all the work you mention is on the forward portion of the boat I see no advantage to removing it from the trailer unless you need to elevate the keel so you can do the work while standing. I believe a safe way to elevate the keel is to first use chocks to secure the trailer tires front and rear. Next use a donut type device to secure the tongue jack wheel. The rear tie down straps should be in place and snugged down to maintain the transom in place on the trailer bunks. Use the tongue jack to raise the bow all the way. Next lower the bow about two inches. Place a board approximately 2 feet in length by eight inches in width and two inches thick beneath the keel but forward of the center of balance of the keel. Place one or two jack stands beneath the center line of the board. The board may be moved forward or backward in order to obtain a snug fit with the jack stands and the keel. DO NOT move the board behind the center of balance of the keel. Because the engine is not installed on your boat the center of balance may be more forward than expected. Be careful. Once the board has been positiond to your satisfaction lower the front of the trailer by raising the tounge jack wheel thus lowering the trailer away from the keel. Proceed slowly in order to determine that the board and jack stands supporting the keel are properly positioned. Reverse the procedure when done. I do this with my Dauntless 16 every couple of years to wax the keel area and those parts of the bottom where the bunks otherwise don't allow waxing. Clearly, this method does not allow waxing of the rearmost few inches of the hull in way of the bunks. Butch