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Author Topic:   2001 Evinrude Ficht 225
WarrenFlynn posted 06-05-2009 01:01 AM ET (US)   Profile for WarrenFlynn   Send Email to WarrenFlynn  
I have a bunch of hours on my 225 Ficht. For a long time when the engine was in low idle I would get an alarm but the engine never stopped running.
Now it does the same thing but I can be cruising along and the engine will just die. When I try to start it it does nothing after a while it will start up like nothing happened and will do the same. I was told it may be the computer but I would like to avoid spending 1700 dollars if I can.
Smithsm posted 06-05-2009 07:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for Smithsm  Send Email to Smithsm     
I own a 2000 225 - just got it.

I have not done this but haver read about it - download the diagnostic softward and hook it up to the computer and read the results yourself.

I have read numerous posts on how to do this and also read posts by guys who have done it.

I have not done it yet but will do it this fall when I pull the boat.

We own an auto repair center and use similar technology every day for cars. There is little substitute for just letting the computer tell you EXACTLY what is wrong. We do it all the time and it is the greatest for cars.

seahorse posted 06-05-2009 07:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for seahorse  Send Email to seahorse     

What alarm indicator lit up when you had the idling problem?

When the engine dies suddenly, then will not crank over or start for a time, then runs fine again, usually it is the EMM (engine computer) that is intermittent and has to be repaired or replaced.

Your dealer can exchange it for a new or a rebuilt EMM if available or you can contact for repair.

WarrenFlynn posted 06-05-2009 08:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for WarrenFlynn  Send Email to WarrenFlynn     
I would get a oil light and a heat light but there is plenty f oil and the engine is spitting out plenty of water.
seahorse posted 06-05-2009 09:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for seahorse  Send Email to seahorse     

You have more than one problem. Likely the oil pump diaphragm is stretched and the oil flow is low at idle.

Sal DiMercurio posted 06-05-2009 09:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
DFI rebuilt my EMM for $700, works beautiful.
Your EMM is water cooled & so is mine.
Mine would die on occasion, & I found the water passage was clogged with silt or salt, & when the EMM got to warm, it shut everything down.
Easy to remove & send to DFI.
My engine is a 2000 - 200 hp, same exact engine as yours, but different info in the EMM.
I believe it took 1 week [ round trip ] to get it back from DFI.
They were very helpful when I called, & they know their stuff.
Also, don't forget to de-carb that engine, or you will be very, "VERY" sorry if you don't.
WarrenFlynn posted 06-05-2009 10:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for WarrenFlynn  Send Email to WarrenFlynn     
I don;t know what de Carb is please explain.
And thanks for the info.
Tohsgib posted 06-05-2009 10:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tohsgib  Send Email to Tohsgib     
Look here:

Peter posted 06-05-2009 01:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
As Sal said, the EMM is water cooled. The water cooling circuit for the EMM includes the vapor separator in series. You could have a clog in the vapor separator. I have clogged mine at least a 1/2 dozen times running, at the time unknowingly, in a shallow muck that wasn't visible on the fish finder.

To understand the EMM/Vapor Seperator cooling circuit, follow the hose from the top of the block to the top of the EMM, then another hose from the bottom of the EMM to the top fitting on the vapor separator, and then another hose from the bottom fitting of the vapor separator to the leg of the motor. For full access, its best to pull the port side lower cowl off.

What I usually do to check whether there is a clog is pull the hose off the top of the EMM and also off the top and bottom fittings of the vapor separator as well as off the leg. I will then blow air (with mouth) into the EMM and vapor separator. If there is anything other than very, very light resistance in either component, you probably have a clog. If you have a clog, its is likely to be in the vapor separator.

To unclog a vapor separator, I have had good success so far gently squirting a hose into a hose connected to the lower vapor separator fitting to backflush the cooling passage. I also use a nylon zip tie to poke and loosen the sediment that seems to accumulates at the bottom of the vapor separator. Usually with a little back and forward flushing and poking the junk frees up.

WarrenFlynn posted 06-05-2009 07:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for WarrenFlynn  Send Email to WarrenFlynn     
I'll try that as I am having a hell of a time getting at the bolts that hold the EMM on with fuel injectors in the way and connectors that I can't get off.

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