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  2002 Dauntless 180 Center Console Connection to Deck

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Author Topic:   2002 Dauntless 180 Center Console Connection to Deck
K Albus posted 08-20-2009 08:52 PM ET (US)   Profile for K Albus   Send Email to K Albus  
I have a 2002 Dauntless 180, and I’m having a bit of a problem with the connection of my center console to the deck. The console is held in place by seven flat head screws which pass through countersunk washers, then through holes in the console, and then screw into a raised portion of the deck. This photo shows the front of the console, where three of the screws can be seen near the bottom of the console: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/ Center%20Console%20Connection/Frontview.jpg

The problem I’m having is that the screws and their countersunk washers are pulling through the fiberglass of the console. The whole console assembly is loose, and can easily be rocked back-and-forth. I've tightened the screws in the past, but there is still significant play in the connection. This movement appears to be causing the screws and washers to be gradually eating their way through the center console.

Here’s a picture of the center front hole with the screw and washer in place: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/ Center%20Console%20Connection/Centerholewithscrew.jpg And here’s the same hole with the screw and washer removed (you can see some fiberglass dust laying on the deck beneath the hole): http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/ Center%20Console%20Connection/Centerhole.jpg

This is what the screws and washers look like: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/ Center%20Console%20Connection/Screwandwasher.jpg

As you may have noticed from the first picture above, I’ve already had one of these screws shear off. The port side screw on the front of the console sheared off about three years ago. As a result, the hole for that screw shows much less wear. http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/ Center%20Console%20Connection/Porthole.jpg

I’d like some suggestions on how to go about remedying this problem. I am thinking about using a thin two-to-three inch wide stainless steel plate across the bottom of the front of the console (sort of as an exposed backing plate) and drilling four new holes through it and into the raised portion of the deck. I would then attached the console to the deck using pan head screws without washers. Not the most elegant solution, but I think it would look better than just switching from flat head screws with countersunk washers to pan head screws with flat washers.

When making your suggestions, please keep in mind that the front of the console has a slight radius to it, as seen in this picture: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/ Center%20Console%20Connection/Radius.jpg

I’ve also thought about putting the strip of stainless steel all the way around both sides and the front of the console, but the sides would need some bends that I don’t think I’m capable of making cleanly. See: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/ Center%20Console%20Connection/Sideofconsole1.jpg I might have to resort to one stainless steel plate on the front of the console, and a smaller plate on each side.

Please give me some feedback on my idea, or provide your own suggestions.

SJUAE posted 08-20-2009 10:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
K Albus

I agree the stainless or ali strip all the way around would be the best looking.

I think you may only require a very thin strip say 1 to 1 1/2 inches wide in a very thin gauge which would bend very easily to suit the profile of your console, aided by the screws.

Although this would look right cosmetically by covering the damage etc it would not stop the screws coming loose again or create a good bond with the metal strip to the console.

I would suggest additionally to bond the metal strip to the console by either an adhesive or similar sized thin neoprene backing strip.

You would also need to ensure the new screws are biting fully, the existing holes may need filling and re-drilling.

Don't forget to take the sharp edges of the metal strip and round the corners

Regards
Steve

Phil T posted 08-20-2009 11:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Phil T  Send Email to Phil T     
That "finish" washer (not the correct name) is, in my non-professional opinion totally incorrect for that application. Any movement will cause the washer to dig right through the fiberglass. Eventually it will go completely through.

While the strip would spread the load, I think changing the washers out to flat will help significantly. I would use the widest ones you can. You might even get ones too wide and cut the bottom straight so it fits on the floor.

There is also the option of adding additional screws. I only see 3 in the front. That is clearly not sufficient.

Just one opinion.

jimh posted 08-21-2009 08:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I suggest using a thin strip of a plastic material like KING StarBoard to spread the load of the fasteners across a larger area. Change to through bolted fasteners. Use elastic stop nuts. On the inside where not visible, use aluminum backing plates.
SJUAE posted 08-21-2009 10:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
Jim

I don't think he can use through bolted fasteners or backing plates as the console is attached to a raised moulding that is part of the tank cover/floor, that can't be accessed.

http://www.whalerparts.com/Diagrams/2002/180%20Dauntless/PB180DA22.pdf

Looks like he could put some extra screws in though.

I had also thought of a plastic/KING StarBoard strip that could use countsunk screws but the thickness may not allow bending around the console corners/profile.

Regards
Steve

Jefecinco posted 08-21-2009 10:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
I suspect that part of the problem is that the fit of the console around the mounting bracket is not close enough and may be uneven around the perimeter. If so, most of the strain on the mounting screws will be eliminated by careful shimming between the inner console skin and the outer mounting bracket.

Console movement can be exacerbated by slightly loose screws securing the windshield and hand rails to the console. Before proceeding with any repair of the console mounting screws the railing mounting screws should be well tightened.

Presently the screws are stressed in two directions. First is the pulling stress caused by the poor fit of the console to the mounting bracket and second is the shear stress of holding the console down against the deck.

Jim's suggestion of using King Starboard to distribute stress is very useful and should be cosmetically acceptable if carefully executed. King Starboard does not bend well unless heated. If a single strip around the front and sides of the console is desired a heat gun will make the task easier. Otherwise a single strip can be used for the front and each side of the console. Using single strips will also decrease costs considerable as a long single piece will not be required and the three strips can be ripped from a smaller sheet of material. Cutting shims from the same material and fitting them between the console inner skin and the bracket should ensure that the screws will only be stressed in shear and eliminate a tendency to be pulled through the console skin. Through bolting with self locking nuts and large stainless steel fender washers under the nuts will also serve well.

Butch

White Bear posted 08-21-2009 10:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for White Bear  Send Email to White Bear     
The 'finish washers' are a major part of your problem as their knife-like edges are cutting through the fiberglass. As suggested, stainless fender washers will do a much better job of spreading the load and preventing further damage. For a long term solution I second your idea of a stainless strip, additional holes and more screws.
SJUAE posted 08-21-2009 11:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
Jefecinco

Good point is there is a void between the console and the raised moulding as this will allow and exagerate any movement.

Fitting and drilling through the plastic shims should stop the movement.

May be as first try fit the shims and add a washer under the 'finish washers', plus some extra screws, before trying the full backing strip.

This would be a simpler task especially if K Albus is not happy bending the KING StarBoard or metal strip .

Regards
Steve

Buckda posted 08-21-2009 11:37 AM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
For those concerned about the "cut" from finish washers, you can eliminate this tendency by putting slightly larger flat washers on your hardware underneath the finish washer. I do this on all my varnished wood to protect the wood from the "cut" in the protective layer of varnish.

Kevin -

I recommend, as others, that you remove the console and overdrill the holes (and perhaps add additional holes for additional screws). Fill the larger hole with epoxy resin plugs. Re-fit the console and then drill and tap the resin plugs with threads that will go through BOTH the aluminum or steel plate on front of the console and into the plug. Then use machine screws to hold the console in place.

I suggest this as a winter project, as it will take some time and effort to accomplish...but knowing how you like to keep your boat, will be the best solution.

Good luck.
Dave

K Albus posted 08-21-2009 12:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for K Albus  Send Email to K Albus     
I don't think over-drilling the existing holes and filling them is an option. I believe that the material that provides the bite for the screws is a piece of Whaleboard just under the fiberglass. I don't think epoxy will bond to Whaleboard.

My plan is to reuse the center hole, and add two new holes on each side on the front of the console, without reusing the other two existing holes. That is why I'm leaning toward a stainless steel strip (or strap) - it will cover the unused existing holes and save me the trouble of repairing them.

Mounting an aluminum angle bracket to the deck inside the console and through-bolting the console to the bracket, as Jim suggests, would also leave me with a lot of holes to repair.

SJUAE posted 08-21-2009 05:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for SJUAE    
Just a thought,

Whilst you are fidling around you may also wish to consider adding some cockpit/floor lights and make a feature out of this repair/mod, especially over the existing holes to hide them, if the cooler seat does not get in the way etc

Regards
Steve

K Albus posted 08-31-2009 10:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for K Albus  Send Email to K Albus     
Well, I took the easy way out. I put fender washers behind the countersunk/finish washers. That should fix the problem for now. I'll think about doing something more permanent next summer.

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