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  2000/225 FICHT Starting issues

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Author Topic:   2000/225 FICHT Starting issues
cujo13 posted 09-02-2009 09:22 AM ET (US)   Profile for cujo13   Send Email to cujo13  
Hello, I am having starting issues with my 2000/225 Ficht. I have done the following to it:
-new fuel filter
-new low pressure fuel pump
-new plugs QC12PEP gapped and indexed
-checked starting battery (checked out good)
-high pressure fuel pump is reading correct psi.

After the motor has been used and sits for a day it can be tough to start. I pump the ball let the fuel pump run for 10 seconds and still no go. It can take several minutes of repeating this before it will fire up. Some times if I squirt some fuel in one of the pistons it will pop then start maybe the second or third turn of the key. Once it is started it will start back up fairly easy. Some times it will take a couple turns of the key (and it will pop each time) but it will start. Once it starts it run great. No missing, smooth and will run top speed with no issues. I am beating my head off a wall so any help would be appreciated.

Thank you

an86carrera posted 09-02-2009 09:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for an86carrera  Send Email to an86carrera     
If you want to get that EMM checked out just remove it and send it to DFI Technologies in Orange Beach, AL. They will check it out for free. If there is anything wrong it will come back rebuilt for ~$800. It is not cheap but your engine will run like new.

I have used them and very happy with the results, There are others here who have also. After the rebuild your EMM will be more robust than when it came from the factory. Mine was done four years ago and starts right away all the time with good batteries.

Len

Peter posted 09-02-2009 01:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
How did you determine that the starting battery was good?
Sal DiMercurio posted 09-02-2009 07:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
That engine "MUST" have a "HOT" battery, or it's not going to fire very well.
Your manual tells you to use 2 - group 29s fully charged.
Are there any alarms going off, or red lights on your tach, such as check engine?
Before you send your emm in, have a tech put a computer on it to see if there's any codes.
DFI re-did my emm & yes, it came back better than it was from the factory.
Just for kicks, pull the water hose off your emm exhaust side [ should be the top side of the emm ], or after the water has gone through the emm to make sure there's water going through it.
Pull that hose off that goes to the tell tail & put just a piece of hose on the outlet of the emm & let the water run on the ground, so it doesen't run all over the emm or engine.
Allow your engine to run for a couple minutes, so the water can go through all the other passages, before getting to the emm, [ takes about 30 seconds or more ].
If your water passage through the emm gets plugged, the emm will over heat, & screw it up, engine wont start, run rough ect.
Sal
cujo13 posted 09-02-2009 08:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for cujo13  Send Email to cujo13     
My battery was suspect, so I went a head and got a new one with 875cca. The alarms have never gone off to this point. I was planning on having a tech hook a computer up to it. I think the emm may need to be rebuilt. I will definitely check to make sure there is a good flow of water running through the emm.

Thanks for the replies and any additional replies.

seahorse posted 09-02-2009 10:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for seahorse  Send Email to seahorse     

Hook a digital voltmeter to the starter threaded B+ terminal and the engine block. Read the voltage as the motor is cranking for at least 5 seconds. It should not be below 10 volts. If so, the battery is weak or the cables and connections are suspect.

Do not use any wing nuts on the battery, stainless steel nuts and lockwashers tightened with a wrench only.

Also check for at least 10 volts at the starter solenoid pink wire terminal while cranking. That is part of the start assist circuit.

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