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Author Topic:   Stuck Bolt

mag posted 09-26-2009 05:44 PM ET (US)
One of the two clamp screws on my 1989 8HP Johnson outboard is stuck. I was able to purchase a replacement screw from ebay but before installing it I need to remove the stuck screw. So far I have busted off the screw handle and drilled thru the remainder of the screw with a 3/8" drill. The screw is a 5/8-11 size and made from aluminum. Any ideas before I resort to re-tapping the hole would be appreciated. Thanks -Mike

contender posted 09-26-2009 06:07 PM ET (US)
Marvel oil let it sit overnight, go purchase some good easy outs, drill and tap, sometimes the trick is to tighten it a little before trying to loosen it...Good luck
deepwater posted 09-27-2009 08:43 AM ET (US)
At least the bolt was soft and not a hardened one ,,You can try taping out the center to get as close to the threads as you can than taping the hole to clean out the bolt threads
R T M posted 09-27-2009 09:21 AM ET (US)
I will have the same problem with an old Chrysler outboard I intend to put back in service, except the screws are steel. I am planning to use deepwaters method, drilling as large as possible and re taping the threads.
rich/Binkie
contender posted 09-27-2009 12:24 PM ET (US)
Rick I would try the easy out first, you can always drill a larger hole and retap....good luck
modenacart posted 09-27-2009 08:23 PM ET (US)
I would emphasize good easy outs because a crappy one might break off and make it worse. I have done that already.
mag posted 09-28-2009 01:06 AM ET (US)
Thanks for all the responses. It is soaking in Marvel Oil now. I'll try an easy-out in the morning. I noticed there is a freezing type of spray that claims to break away corrosion and I may try that before re-tapping (the tap cost $22 from McMaster). -Mike

Russ57 posted 09-28-2009 09:35 AM ET (US)
Can you remove the motor from the boat? Can you turn the bolt at all?
If you can turn it some, and can remove it from the transom, it shouldn't be too bad of a job. I'd get some "PB blaster", a torch, and a small pipe wrench. Spray the area well and tap on it with a hammer. Work on it for a couple/few days. Then heat it up and put some pressure on it with the pipe wrench. Work it back and forth. Ideally you will be able to get a few turns on it. Take time to clean the threads as well as you can. Once you can get a few turns on it run it in as far as possible and cut the remainder off on the transom side. File the ends smooth and spray and heat while you remove it. Clean it up with a tap afterwards.
Heat will get you a long ways. Just take your time and give the PB blaster a few days to do its thing. If you can't get it to move saw the bolt off flush on both sides, file flush, and carefully mark the center of the bolt. Use a center punch and start off small with your drill sizes. Using left hand twist drills can help once you get close.

Russ
simonmeridew posted 09-29-2009 10:05 PM ET (US)
get the "square" ezey outs, rather than the worthless spiral ones that break off. Be sure to drill a lot bigger hole than you think you need. You need a big ezey out.Tap it in well with plenty of PB blaster, take your time, and as was said, try tightening it a little first.
simonmeridew
btb posted 10-01-2009 01:22 PM ET (US)
drill it out with the right size drill and retap the original size. If necessary make a jig to put your drill in exactly the right place.
Tohsgib posted 10-01-2009 02:21 PM ET (US)
I bet heat and some PB would have worked...too late now from what I read.
mag posted 10-01-2009 08:49 PM ET (US)
By the time I asked for advice, the bolt was already broken off and drilled, so I ended up buying a tap and re-tapping the hole. That worked out easier than I expected. Now I am faced with the remaining clamp-screw which is also stuck but not yet broken. I have been spraying periodically with PB for a few days and also applied some heat with a propane torch but it still doesn't budge. I am now wondering if the problem is not corrosion but possibly that the threads on both of these aluminum bolts were deformed by the bouncing that the kicker motor sometimes endured on my boat. Thanks for all the advice ... I'll feedback the final outcome of this remaining bolt.
deepwater posted 10-03-2009 12:49 PM ET (US)
well the cause is of no concern now that you know the fix and its not as scary a fix as you thought,, now that its fixed work toward to not having to fix it again,,Like diffrent bolts or anti-cease or a good supply of bolts and taps

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Author	Topic: Stuck Bolt
mag	posted 09-26-2009 05:44 PM ET (US) One of the two clamp screws on my 1989 8HP Johnson outboard is stuck. I was able to purchase a replacement screw from ebay but before installing it I need to remove the stuck screw. So far I have busted off the screw handle and drilled thru the remainder of the screw with a 3/8" drill. The screw is a 5/8-11 size and made from aluminum. Any ideas before I resort to re-tapping the hole would be appreciated. Thanks -Mike
contender	posted 09-26-2009 06:07 PM ET (US) Marvel oil let it sit overnight, go purchase some good easy outs, drill and tap, sometimes the trick is to tighten it a little before trying to loosen it...Good luck
deepwater	posted 09-27-2009 08:43 AM ET (US) At least the bolt was soft and not a hardened one ,,You can try taping out the center to get as close to the threads as you can than taping the hole to clean out the bolt threads
R T M	posted 09-27-2009 09:21 AM ET (US) I will have the same problem with an old Chrysler outboard I intend to put back in service, except the screws are steel. I am planning to use deepwaters method, drilling as large as possible and re taping the threads. rich/Binkie
contender	posted 09-27-2009 12:24 PM ET (US) Rick I would try the easy out first, you can always drill a larger hole and retap....good luck
modenacart	posted 09-27-2009 08:23 PM ET (US) I would emphasize good easy outs because a crappy one might break off and make it worse. I have done that already.
mag	posted 09-28-2009 01:06 AM ET (US) Thanks for all the responses. It is soaking in Marvel Oil now. I'll try an easy-out in the morning. I noticed there is a freezing type of spray that claims to break away corrosion and I may try that before re-tapping (the tap cost $22 from McMaster). -Mike
Russ57	posted 09-28-2009 09:35 AM ET (US) Can you remove the motor from the boat? Can you turn the bolt at all? If you can turn it some, and can remove it from the transom, it shouldn't be too bad of a job. I'd get some "PB blaster", a torch, and a small pipe wrench. Spray the area well and tap on it with a hammer. Work on it for a couple/few days. Then heat it up and put some pressure on it with the pipe wrench. Work it back and forth. Ideally you will be able to get a few turns on it. Take time to clean the threads as well as you can. Once you can get a few turns on it run it in as far as possible and cut the remainder off on the transom side. File the ends smooth and spray and heat while you remove it. Clean it up with a tap afterwards. Heat will get you a long ways. Just take your time and give the PB blaster a few days to do its thing. If you can't get it to move saw the bolt off flush on both sides, file flush, and carefully mark the center of the bolt. Use a center punch and start off small with your drill sizes. Using left hand twist drills can help once you get close. Russ
simonmeridew	posted 09-29-2009 10:05 PM ET (US) get the "square" ezey outs, rather than the worthless spiral ones that break off. Be sure to drill a lot bigger hole than you think you need. You need a big ezey out.Tap it in well with plenty of PB blaster, take your time, and as was said, try tightening it a little first. simonmeridew
btb	posted 10-01-2009 01:22 PM ET (US) drill it out with the right size drill and retap the original size. If necessary make a jig to put your drill in exactly the right place.
Tohsgib	posted 10-01-2009 02:21 PM ET (US) I bet heat and some PB would have worked...too late now from what I read.
mag	posted 10-01-2009 08:49 PM ET (US) By the time I asked for advice, the bolt was already broken off and drilled, so I ended up buying a tap and re-tapping the hole. That worked out easier than I expected. Now I am faced with the remaining clamp-screw which is also stuck but not yet broken. I have been spraying periodically with PB for a few days and also applied some heat with a propane torch but it still doesn't budge. I am now wondering if the problem is not corrosion but possibly that the threads on both of these aluminum bolts were deformed by the bouncing that the kicker motor sometimes endured on my boat. Thanks for all the advice ... I'll feedback the final outcome of this remaining bolt.
deepwater	posted 10-03-2009 12:49 PM ET (US) well the cause is of no concern now that you know the fix and its not as scary a fix as you thought,, now that its fixed work toward to not having to fix it again,,Like diffrent bolts or anti-cease or a good supply of bolts and taps