posted 12-16-2009 11:36 PM ET (US)        

After looking at the wood placement diagrams on CW, I concluded there is no or insufficient wood inside the transom to firmly hold an occupied swim ladder at the preferred mounting spot. Sooo, I am thinking:

1. Bond a rectangular piece of one-half inch thick “starboard” or equivalent high tech marine structural board with a second piece aligned on the other side of the transom. These boards will have about a 3-inch larger footprint than the ladder’s mounting plates in both horizontal and vertical planes.

2. Drill through the two bonded boards and hull and attach the ladder with stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers. Appropriate 3M sealant / adhesive applied to the holes and all holes will be above the waterline.

Candidly, not being an engineer, I want this to be over built and sounder than the unsinkable Titanic.

Now, what have I overlooked??

What unintended consequences are looming to bite me, my grand plans and my beloved Whaler??

Your concerns and recommendations please.

posted 12-17-2009 09:20 AM ET (US)            

I'll try to get some shots of my Montauk set-up to you this weekend. Needs re-varnishing (going with epoxy and clearcoat next time) but I'm still quite proud of it. I managed to attach a 3 step telescoping ladder UNDER the platform, giving me far superior boarding comfort and leaving the entire platform flat and usable whether the ladder was deployed or not. In my humble opinion, it's the way these sorts of platforms should have been made in the first place.

Because the primary forces at play for the lower, outside mount that aligns with the wood-less section of the Montauk transom are against the hull, and to some degree downward, I decided I could afford to experiment with a less intrusive more conservative approach for that attachment point. I fashioned an appropriately sized teak block and simply glued it to the transom with 3m 4200. I cut the equivalent of a biscuit crevice into the face of the teak block (facing transom) to create a much larger 4200 plug within the block for maximum strength. Years later, hundreds of boardings and even quick take-offs with the ladder down and still no problems. Because the Montauk transom indents somewhat on the sides anyway, this solution also allowed me to properly align the swim platform with the rest of the boat.

I think what you propose would work fine but if indeed you are talking about the lower brace mounting point, it's nice to not have to breach the inner and outer hull skins below or near the waterline.

posted 12-31-2009 12:15 PM ET (US)            

dscrew, shoot me an e-mail and I can get them to you pronto. I assume macsfriended would also share.

posted 01-01-2010 10:58 AM ET (US)            

Contender's thoughts are certainly good advice re keeping it simple and avoids the need to "pierce" the hull. I have seen many comments re the difficulties (and often impracticality) of retrieving a ladder that is stored aboard should the occupants "hit" the water unexpectedly without having riggesd a ladder while still aboard the boat. So I will use the transom mounted ladder that can ue easily extended for use by folks already in the water.

posted 01-01-2010 02:04 PM ET (US)            

I'll be happy to if you'll supply me with an e-mail address. Your profile doesn't contain one. E-mail me via my profile address and I'll send them on.

posted 01-01-2010 06:52 PM ET (US)         

http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/ladder/

I made the brackets myself out of 2 pieces of aluminum angle. The smaller angle is bolted to the larger angle so that the ladder will hang at an angle to facilitate climbing. A vertical ladder would be almost impossible to climb. The brackets are bolted through the transom with a large fender washer on the inside of the transom.
The ladder is set in place and blocked up on the transom and then taped around the perimeter for a locating template, and the bolt holes are marked and drilled. There is no wood in this part of the transom. 5200 fast set is applied to the fender washers and the back of the angles.
The nuts are tightened fairly securely on the ladder in order to create friction enough to hold the ladder in an upright position without needing some sort of strap, and the nuts are drilled and cotter pinned to prevent loosening. This is a very simple installation and should work well.

posted 01-01-2010 08:23 PM ET (US)            

As I mocked-up the ladder the transom in the mounting area appeared flat.

The ladder model I purchased is designed for transom mounting (i.e. a vertical surface.)

My intended assembly is: (from the rear moving towards the bow)

1. Ladder mounting plates. (Factory provided stainless steel)

2. “Starboard” 1/2 inch thick rectangular plate bonded to transom exterior with appropriate 3M adhesive. The “starboard” plate will exceed the footprint
of the ladder’s mounting plates by 6 inches overall in both horizontal and vertical dimensions.

3. Transom

4. Interior “Starboard” same as exterior plate and aligned with it.

5. All above are through bolted and secured with stainless steel bolts, locking washers and nuts.

I just saw your 13' photos. Very good. I am aware of the potetial need to 'shim out" the lower brackets to aid climbers on the ladder and I expect to "do no drilling" until I have that worked out.

So what do you think?

Ed

posted 01-02-2010 08:01 AM ET (US)         

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c191/floridaboy2053/ladder/ladder8.jpg