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Author Topic:   Winterizing my 2007 170 Montauk (90-HP)

pcjackson posted 12-28-2009 07:55 AM ET (US)
This will be the first time I've winterized a boat. Here's my general understanding (let me know if I'm barking up the wrong tree).
- Add stabil to fuel; hook up flusher/water (boat in driveway) and let run in N for 5-10 minutes to make sure fuel with additive has made its way to engine
- Spray fogging oil into air intake ports while running until engine dies; remove plugs and spray fogging oil into each cylinder
- Drain gear oil; replace
- Drain oil; replace
I'm uncertain where the air intake ports are on the 90-hp Mercury. Ideas as to where I should look?
Thanks in advance for looking over this and keeping me in line :)
macfam posted 12-28-2009 08:44 AM ET (US)
pc,
If that is what your Merc 90 hp manual describes, then follow it.
The only concern I have with the procedure, is while spraying the fogging oil "until the engine dies" may not happen if its still getting fuel.
Personally, I believe that the fogging while running is an unnecessary step with 4-strokes.
Simply removing the plugs, spraying into each cylinder, then rotating the flywheel by hand, and then replacing the old plugs is more than sufficient.
The rest of your procedure sounds pretty good.
If you are are using in saltwater: Be sure to clean and lubricate the steering tube, and the steering cable that goes through the tube. If neglected, this can lead to "frozen sterring" next season. If you have installed a "Steersman Nut" that procedure may be unnecessary.
If you have not installed a "Steersman Nut" then its the perfect time to do it. You'll be glad you did.
That's just my opinion, others will post to their preferences.
jimh posted 12-28-2009 03:16 PM ET (US)
Typically the owner's manual for your outboard motor will have specific instructions on the procedure to be followed to prepare the engine for a long lay-up.
In the reference section there is a procedure for preparing a classic two-cycle carburetor motor for lay-up. Reading this procedure may be useful for your motor:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/winterizeOMC.html
The choice of an additive to prepare the gasoline fuel for storage has itself been the topic of many discussions. In that regard, you might want to read some of these prior discussions to get a sampling of opinion. My recommendation is to be guided by the recommendation of your engine manufacturer, and, again, you will likely find that in your owner's manual.
jimh posted 12-28-2009 03:38 PM ET (US)
For some engines, the fuel flow rate at idle speed is very low. For example, on my 225-HP E-TEC the fuel flow rate at idle is about 0.2-gallon-per-hour. In order to be certain that the treated fuel in the fuel tank has circulated through the entire fuel system and into the engine, the engine should be run long enough and at a fuel flow rate high enough to move a reasonable amount of fuel.
In my example, running the engine at idle for ten minutes would only circulate about 0.03-gallons of fuel. This is less than four ounces of fuel. Considering the volume of fuel in the fuel hoses, the fuel-water separating filter, the fuel lift pump, the fuel-vapor separator, and the fuel distribution system in the engine, it is highly unlikely that four-ounces of fuel circulation would be sufficient to introduce the treated fuel to the entire system.
A 90-HP four-cycle engine at idle will probably have a rather low fuel flow rate, and it could take some time to run enough fuel through the engine to circulate the treated fuel.
To avoid the problem of having to run the engine for several hours at idle speed to circulate treated fuel, I try to make it a practice to use stabilized fuel to operate the engine during the fall boating season. In this way I can be sure that the fuel in the engine and fuel system is treated fuel. This is also a good idea in case something happens and you cannot perform the winterization procedure some time later. At least the fuel will be treated fuel, even if other parts of the winterization were omitted.
L H G posted 12-28-2009 04:46 PM ET (US)
Mercury Storage Seal (fogging oil) is not recommended for EFI's, EFI 4-strokes & Verados, or DFI Optimax engines.
http://www.mercurymarine.com/serviceandwarranty/outboardfaqs/ winterization.php

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Author	Topic: Winterizing my 2007 170 Montauk (90-HP)
pcjackson	posted 12-28-2009 07:55 AM ET (US) This will be the first time I've winterized a boat. Here's my general understanding (let me know if I'm barking up the wrong tree). - Add stabil to fuel; hook up flusher/water (boat in driveway) and let run in N for 5-10 minutes to make sure fuel with additive has made its way to engine - Spray fogging oil into air intake ports while running until engine dies; remove plugs and spray fogging oil into each cylinder - Drain gear oil; replace - Drain oil; replace I'm uncertain where the air intake ports are on the 90-hp Mercury. Ideas as to where I should look? Thanks in advance for looking over this and keeping me in line :)
macfam	posted 12-28-2009 08:44 AM ET (US) pc, If that is what your Merc 90 hp manual describes, then follow it. The only concern I have with the procedure, is while spraying the fogging oil "until the engine dies" may not happen if its still getting fuel. Personally, I believe that the fogging while running is an unnecessary step with 4-strokes. Simply removing the plugs, spraying into each cylinder, then rotating the flywheel by hand, and then replacing the old plugs is more than sufficient. The rest of your procedure sounds pretty good. If you are are using in saltwater: Be sure to clean and lubricate the steering tube, and the steering cable that goes through the tube. If neglected, this can lead to "frozen sterring" next season. If you have installed a "Steersman Nut" that procedure may be unnecessary. If you have not installed a "Steersman Nut" then its the perfect time to do it. You'll be glad you did. That's just my opinion, others will post to their preferences.
jimh	posted 12-28-2009 03:16 PM ET (US) Typically the owner's manual for your outboard motor will have specific instructions on the procedure to be followed to prepare the engine for a long lay-up. In the reference section there is a procedure for preparing a classic two-cycle carburetor motor for lay-up. Reading this procedure may be useful for your motor: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/winterizeOMC.html The choice of an additive to prepare the gasoline fuel for storage has itself been the topic of many discussions. In that regard, you might want to read some of these prior discussions to get a sampling of opinion. My recommendation is to be guided by the recommendation of your engine manufacturer, and, again, you will likely find that in your owner's manual.
jimh	posted 12-28-2009 03:38 PM ET (US) For some engines, the fuel flow rate at idle speed is very low. For example, on my 225-HP E-TEC the fuel flow rate at idle is about 0.2-gallon-per-hour. In order to be certain that the treated fuel in the fuel tank has circulated through the entire fuel system and into the engine, the engine should be run long enough and at a fuel flow rate high enough to move a reasonable amount of fuel. In my example, running the engine at idle for ten minutes would only circulate about 0.03-gallons of fuel. This is less than four ounces of fuel. Considering the volume of fuel in the fuel hoses, the fuel-water separating filter, the fuel lift pump, the fuel-vapor separator, and the fuel distribution system in the engine, it is highly unlikely that four-ounces of fuel circulation would be sufficient to introduce the treated fuel to the entire system. A 90-HP four-cycle engine at idle will probably have a rather low fuel flow rate, and it could take some time to run enough fuel through the engine to circulate the treated fuel. To avoid the problem of having to run the engine for several hours at idle speed to circulate treated fuel, I try to make it a practice to use stabilized fuel to operate the engine during the fall boating season. In this way I can be sure that the fuel in the engine and fuel system is treated fuel. This is also a good idea in case something happens and you cannot perform the winterization procedure some time later. At least the fuel will be treated fuel, even if other parts of the winterization were omitted.
L H G	posted 12-28-2009 04:46 PM ET (US) Mercury Storage Seal (fogging oil) is not recommended for EFI's, EFI 4-strokes & Verados, or DFI Optimax engines. http://www.mercurymarine.com/serviceandwarranty/outboardfaqs/ winterization.php