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Author Topic:   FLO-TORQ Propeller Hub Kits

howlingdogsteve posted 12-31-2009 06:02 PM ET (US)
I have a Mercury 90 FOURSTROKE with a VENGEANCE prop that currently has a FLO-TORQ-II hub in it. I'd like to upgrade to a FLOR-TORQ-III hub to eliminating the shift clunk and idle rattle. I took the propeller off; now what? Do I need to drive the old rubber sleeve out of the prop? Any advice would be most welcomed. Thanks and Happy New Year All.
Steve
Tom W Clark posted 12-31-2009 06:06 PM ET (US)
The Drive Sleeve is not rubber, it is a hard plastic called Delrin and made by DuPont.
Yes, you just push the old Drive Sleeve out and put the Flo-Torq III Drive Sleeve in its place.
Yiddil posted 12-31-2009 10:19 PM ET (US)
Tom, if you don't mind, could you explain the differences between the II, III and IV. On my 115 I have the III--I could be wrong--and it always clunked when I put a stainless steel propeller on. I can't remember but I know we discussed my propeller and the properties of these once before somewhere. I'd use the SS prop if it just would not sound so bad going into gear. I don't get that with the Black Max 13 X 19 I use regularly, and, actually, it gets [the boat] off and keeps [the boat] going faster than the stainless steel propeller, for some reason. I can't remember the type of stainless steel propeller I have and it size. My best,
Henry
howlingdogsteve posted 01-01-2010 11:08 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the information. Should I use a drift to tap it out?
Also, where to get the best pricing on a Flo-Torq III ?
Thanks much.
howlingdogsteve posted 01-01-2010 06:53 PM ET (US)
Well I just tapped on the sleeve and it came right out. Still wondering where to get the best pricing on a Flo Torq III hub. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Steve
Marlin posted 01-02-2010 10:01 AM ET (US)
I switched to a Flo-Torq III last year or maybe it was for 2008 and frankly, I don't know that there was a heck of a lot of difference on my 2003 Mercury 115 FOURSTROKE, 17-inch Trophy Plus 4-blade.
Tom W Clark posted 01-02-2010 12:35 PM ET (US)
Removing a Flo-Torq Hub Insert:
Much of the time it will just drop out and can be pushed out with your fingers. Sometimes it will require a hammer or mallet to get it out of the propeller's hub casting.
In such situations, you should resist the temptation to use a drift punch or screwdriver with your hammer or mallet. It is important to apply force equally and broadly around the exposed portion of the end of the hub insert.
The easiest way to do this is to take the 1-1/16" socket you use on the prop nut and place it on the back end of the hub insert. Tap this with a hammer or mallet and it will drive the hub insert out without marring the hub insert itself.
I use a 1-1/16" DEEP six-point socket for installing propellers, but you can also use a regular depth socket with a three inch extension and both work well for this task.
The other tool I have for driving out the hub insert is a 1/2" carriage bolt which I use in conjunction with a 3/4" flat washer. The washer has an o.d just the right size for the hub insert and the i.d. is less than the head of the carriage bolt.
The carriage bolt fits into the washer in a sort of ball-and-socket fit that allows it to apply the force from the hammer equally even if the bolt is not held perfectly perpendicular to the propeller.
Tom W Clark posted 01-02-2010 12:48 PM ET (US)
Flo-Torq, Flo-Torq II, Flo-Torq III and Flo-Torq IV Hub Differences:
The Flo-Torq II hub kit uses a one piece DuPont Delrin hub insert that is sacrificial in the event of a severe propeller strike, but it is less resilient than a rubber hub.
The Flo-Torq III hub is a two-piece insert that has two halves, one fixed relative to the propeller shaft, the other fixed relative to the prop. The two halves are connected with eight titanium rods that act as springs to cushion and dampen the transmission of the torque from the propeller shaft to the propeller.
The idea was this would soften the shift clunk and absorb the pulses of torque loading that lead to propeller rattle at idle speeds, especially in four-cycle outboards. The Flo-Torq III hub is designed for intermediate size geacase motors up to 115 HP.
The Flo-Torq IV is the same ideas as the Flo-Torq III but is designed for large gearcase motors up to 200-HP. It simply uses larger diameter titanium rods to create a stiffer spring rate in the hub for the greater toque.
The other curious difference between the Flo-Torq III and the Flo-Torq IV is that the half of the insert which is fixed relative to the propeller shaft and the half that is fixed relative to the prop, are reversed between these two hubs. I do not know why.
The Flo-Torq hub (n.k.a Flo-Torq I) is nothing but a rubber hub that is designed to fit the "square bore" of propellers designed for Flo-Torq hubs.
A Flo-Torq I hub kit can be used to convert a Flo-Torq propeller back to a conventional rubber hub.
Tom W Clark posted 01-02-2010 12:51 PM ET (US)
The Flo-Torq III and IV hub kits are designed to help with shift clunk and prop rattle but they will not necessarily alleviate all of it.
The four-blade Trophy Plus is a very large and heavy propeller relative to an intermediate size gearcase. If you are still experiencing shift clunk and prop rattle with the Flo-Torq III on a 90-HP outboard, I recommend you try a Flo-Torq IV hub insert. Its stiffer spring rate may take care of it.
Tom W Clark posted 01-02-2010 02:04 PM ET (US)
The cheapest pricing on the Flo-Torq III is about $70, delivered
This site has them as low as any I can find, but only because they are not gouging on the shipping:
http://www.boatingsolutions.com/Flo-Torq-III-Kit-Mercury--P14998C1680. aspx
There are many other options:
http://www.google.com/products?client=safari&rls=en&q=flo-torq%20III
Tom W Clark posted 01-02-2010 02:13 PM ET (US)
http://www.google.com/products?q=Flo-Torq%20III
howlingdogsteve posted 01-02-2010 06:40 PM ET (US)
Thank you so much Tom for all your information.
I'll be placing an order on Monday.
Yiddil posted 01-03-2010 01:08 AM ET (US)
Thanks Tom, As always, a lot of info and always a gentleman:)
Henry
jimh posted 01-03-2010 08:40 AM ET (US)
Tom's succinct and excellent summary notwithstanding, also see these prior articles about the Flo-Torq hub kits from Mercury:
Flo-Torq Adaptors
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/005155.html
Detailed explanation and illustrations
Flo-Torq IV Hub Decreases Loud Clunk, But Has Wobble
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/005785.html
First person narrative of results of installation and further discussion
FLO-TORQ II v. FLO-TORQ III
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/006600.html
Comparison of the two devices
Mercury FLO-TORQ Hub
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/004988.html
News of introduction of Flo-Torq iV
Yiddil posted 01-03-2010 04:31 PM ET (US)
Thanks for pointing to other postings that discuss Flo-Torq. The photos and discussions are very informative.--Henry
howlingdogsteve posted 01-07-2010 06:17 PM ET (US)
Thanks Jim for all the links.
Very interesting reading indeed.


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Author	Topic: FLO-TORQ Propeller Hub Kits
howlingdogsteve	posted 12-31-2009 06:02 PM ET (US) I have a Mercury 90 FOURSTROKE with a VENGEANCE prop that currently has a FLO-TORQ-II hub in it. I'd like to upgrade to a FLOR-TORQ-III hub to eliminating the shift clunk and idle rattle. I took the propeller off; now what? Do I need to drive the old rubber sleeve out of the prop? Any advice would be most welcomed. Thanks and Happy New Year All. Steve
Tom W Clark	posted 12-31-2009 06:06 PM ET (US) The Drive Sleeve is not rubber, it is a hard plastic called Delrin and made by DuPont. Yes, you just push the old Drive Sleeve out and put the Flo-Torq III Drive Sleeve in its place.
Yiddil	posted 12-31-2009 10:19 PM ET (US) Tom, if you don't mind, could you explain the differences between the II, III and IV. On my 115 I have the III--I could be wrong--and it always clunked when I put a stainless steel propeller on. I can't remember but I know we discussed my propeller and the properties of these once before somewhere. I'd use the SS prop if it just would not sound so bad going into gear. I don't get that with the Black Max 13 X 19 I use regularly, and, actually, it gets [the boat] off and keeps [the boat] going faster than the stainless steel propeller, for some reason. I can't remember the type of stainless steel propeller I have and it size. My best, Henry
howlingdogsteve	posted 01-01-2010 11:08 AM ET (US) Thanks for the information. Should I use a drift to tap it out? Also, where to get the best pricing on a Flo-Torq III ? Thanks much.
howlingdogsteve	posted 01-01-2010 06:53 PM ET (US) Well I just tapped on the sleeve and it came right out. Still wondering where to get the best pricing on a Flo Torq III hub. Any suggestions? Thanks Steve
Marlin	posted 01-02-2010 10:01 AM ET (US) I switched to a Flo-Torq III last year or maybe it was for 2008 and frankly, I don't know that there was a heck of a lot of difference on my 2003 Mercury 115 FOURSTROKE, 17-inch Trophy Plus 4-blade.
Tom W Clark	posted 01-02-2010 12:35 PM ET (US) Removing a Flo-Torq Hub Insert: Much of the time it will just drop out and can be pushed out with your fingers. Sometimes it will require a hammer or mallet to get it out of the propeller's hub casting. In such situations, you should resist the temptation to use a drift punch or screwdriver with your hammer or mallet. It is important to apply force equally and broadly around the exposed portion of the end of the hub insert. The easiest way to do this is to take the 1-1/16" socket you use on the prop nut and place it on the back end of the hub insert. Tap this with a hammer or mallet and it will drive the hub insert out without marring the hub insert itself. I use a 1-1/16" DEEP six-point socket for installing propellers, but you can also use a regular depth socket with a three inch extension and both work well for this task. The other tool I have for driving out the hub insert is a 1/2" carriage bolt which I use in conjunction with a 3/4" flat washer. The washer has an o.d just the right size for the hub insert and the i.d. is less than the head of the carriage bolt. The carriage bolt fits into the washer in a sort of ball-and-socket fit that allows it to apply the force from the hammer equally even if the bolt is not held perfectly perpendicular to the propeller.
Tom W Clark	posted 01-02-2010 12:48 PM ET (US) Flo-Torq, Flo-Torq II, Flo-Torq III and Flo-Torq IV Hub Differences: The Flo-Torq II hub kit uses a one piece DuPont Delrin hub insert that is sacrificial in the event of a severe propeller strike, but it is less resilient than a rubber hub. The Flo-Torq III hub is a two-piece insert that has two halves, one fixed relative to the propeller shaft, the other fixed relative to the prop. The two halves are connected with eight titanium rods that act as springs to cushion and dampen the transmission of the torque from the propeller shaft to the propeller. The idea was this would soften the shift clunk and absorb the pulses of torque loading that lead to propeller rattle at idle speeds, especially in four-cycle outboards. The Flo-Torq III hub is designed for intermediate size geacase motors up to 115 HP. The Flo-Torq IV is the same ideas as the Flo-Torq III but is designed for large gearcase motors up to 200-HP. It simply uses larger diameter titanium rods to create a stiffer spring rate in the hub for the greater toque. The other curious difference between the Flo-Torq III and the Flo-Torq IV is that the half of the insert which is fixed relative to the propeller shaft and the half that is fixed relative to the prop, are reversed between these two hubs. I do not know why. The Flo-Torq hub (n.k.a Flo-Torq I) is nothing but a rubber hub that is designed to fit the "square bore" of propellers designed for Flo-Torq hubs. A Flo-Torq I hub kit can be used to convert a Flo-Torq propeller back to a conventional rubber hub.
Tom W Clark	posted 01-02-2010 12:51 PM ET (US) The Flo-Torq III and IV hub kits are designed to help with shift clunk and prop rattle but they will not necessarily alleviate all of it. The four-blade Trophy Plus is a very large and heavy propeller relative to an intermediate size gearcase. If you are still experiencing shift clunk and prop rattle with the Flo-Torq III on a 90-HP outboard, I recommend you try a Flo-Torq IV hub insert. Its stiffer spring rate may take care of it.
Tom W Clark	posted 01-02-2010 02:04 PM ET (US) The cheapest pricing on the Flo-Torq III is about $70, delivered This site has them as low as any I can find, but only because they are not gouging on the shipping: http://www.boatingsolutions.com/Flo-Torq-III-Kit-Mercury--P14998C1680. aspx There are many other options: http://www.google.com/products?client=safari&rls=en&q=flo-torq%20III
Tom W Clark	posted 01-02-2010 02:13 PM ET (US) http://www.google.com/products?q=Flo-Torq%20III
howlingdogsteve	posted 01-02-2010 06:40 PM ET (US) Thank you so much Tom for all your information. I'll be placing an order on Monday.
Yiddil	posted 01-03-2010 01:08 AM ET (US) Thanks Tom, As always, a lot of info and always a gentleman:) Henry
jimh	posted 01-03-2010 08:40 AM ET (US) Tom's succinct and excellent summary notwithstanding, also see these prior articles about the Flo-Torq hub kits from Mercury: Flo-Torq Adaptors http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/005155.html Detailed explanation and illustrations Flo-Torq IV Hub Decreases Loud Clunk, But Has Wobble http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/005785.html First person narrative of results of installation and further discussion FLO-TORQ II v. FLO-TORQ III http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/006600.html Comparison of the two devices Mercury FLO-TORQ Hub http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/004988.html News of introduction of Flo-Torq iV
Yiddil	posted 01-03-2010 04:31 PM ET (US) Thanks for pointing to other postings that discuss Flo-Torq. The photos and discussions are very informative.--Henry
howlingdogsteve	posted 01-07-2010 06:17 PM ET (US) Thanks Jim for all the links. Very interesting reading indeed.