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Author Topic:   Repairing Small Holes In Wood; Varnishes

blade posted 01-06-2010 05:12 PM ET (US)
I just started stripping the wood [on a 1984 Boston Whaler SUPER SPORT 13]. What do you use to repair small holes in the wood? Wood filler I assume. Is one [brand of wood filler] better than the others [for making repairs to small holes in the wood on a Boston Whaler 13-footer]?
Is there a bleaching agent [that can be used on] weathered spots? Or, should I just varnish right over the gray spots that I have sanded down?
Is it a no-no to use the McCloskeys Marine brand of spar varnish? I was going to use the semi-gloss. What do you think? Should I pay the extra bucks for the Z-spar Flagship varnish?
Any thoughts or links appreciated.
Thanks,
Blade
dscew posted 01-06-2010 07:17 PM ET (US)
Depending on the size of the holes, you could use filler or mahogany bungs cut with a plug cutter (an inexpensive tool you can use in a small drill).
Grey spots in the wood will likely end up black with varnish on them. I would try to bleach them out or sand through them if not too deep.
I've varnished hundreds of board feet of Whaler mahogany, and for my money, it's Zspar Flagship hands down. IMO, it has the best overall color, brings out the best of mahogany, and has a high degree of UV protection. Quite simply, it's gorgeous and durable.
blade posted 01-07-2010 12:32 AM ET (US)
Great advice on the plug cutter! I'll try that.
Can I use just regular household bleach on the wood to get the black and gray spots out?
Thanks again.
Blade
dscew posted 01-07-2010 07:02 AM ET (US)
I've used regular household bleach without any negative results; lots of rinsing is a good idea. There are some bleaches specifically made for use on wood, but I've never tried them. Others on this forum may have suggestions regarding that.
jimh posted 01-07-2010 09:14 AM ET (US)
It is common on teak that a black substance (presumed to be some type of mildew or mold) will accumulate in the grain. Several products are sold as teak cleaners. Their effectiveness at removing the black material varies with brand. I have never tried using common household chlorine laundry bleach to remove the black substance from the grain of teak.
A good article on wood care is available in the REFERENCE section:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/whalerWood.html
macfam posted 01-07-2010 03:11 PM ET (US)
With mahogany, the dark spot where water has intruded can be lighted by bleaching with oxalic acid. These wood bleaches are sold in most hardware stores and come in the form of oxalic crystals that are mixed in water to make a paste.
It will lighten, but rarely 100 %
These areas are generally where the SS finish washers have penetrated the varnish. To prevent this from reoccuring, place a slightly larger SS fender washer underneath the finish washer after varnishing.
Tohsgib posted 01-07-2010 05:24 PM ET (US)
I think it is called Dolphin bleach cleaner, it is 2 part, the brightener works great but again not 100%. Anything you use will raise the grain and hence more sanding will be required. Use the best varnish possible. Mike @ Nautical uses this new stuff that is $44/qt...worth it in my opinion.
Tohsgib posted 01-07-2010 05:44 PM ET (US)
PS...if you need to fill in some small holes here is what I do. I save some sawdust from the seats and then make a paste out of it with wood or Elmer's glue...old wood worker/cabinet maker's trick.
BobL posted 01-07-2010 09:34 PM ET (US)
I refinished my SUPER SPORT 15 this fall and used two methods to fill holes in the mahogany. I drilled out the bigger screw holes with a 3/8-inch Forstener bit. Forstener bits cut holes much smoother and cleaner than simple twist bits. The holes can be filled with mahogany bungs ( or plugs) as dscew stated above. You can make the bungs yourself with a 3/8-inch plug cutter or buy the bungs at a marine supply store. Forstener bits and bung cutters are available at home centers or hardware stores. A drill press is best to cut the bungs. The Forstener bit can be used with a drill and a steady hand. I like to use Titebond III carpenter's glue because it is waterproof and dries in a few hours. Try to align the grain of the bung with the grain of the wood you are plugging. When the glue is dry, cut the bung with a fine-tooth saw or a sharp chisel. I cut the bungs a little high and sand them flush with a palm sander.
Another technique of woodworkers is to fill small imperfections with glue and sawdust as Tohsgib mentioned. Squirt a little carpenter’s glue into the hole and rub sawdust in. Sand the excess sawdust flush with a palm sander right away and allow it to dry.
Bob L
Screw holes bunged in my side rail from a previous owner’s rod holder
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2619/4162262772_851a0b8f2d_b.jpg
dscew posted 01-07-2010 09:47 PM ET (US)
Very nice repair!
blade posted 01-08-2010 12:45 PM ET (US)
Awesome information! I will attempt household bleach first and see where that takes me.
Thank you!
Blade
hauptjm posted 01-08-2010 04:11 PM ET (US)
Teka A, Teka B teak cleaning product. Be careful with it though as it will raise your grain fairly quickly. Maybe it's me, but I find the type of repairs shown in BobL's link quite attractive. On a boat, it gives the wood character. Of course, the repair HAS to be followed by a perfect finish on the varnish or it just looks all wrong.
L H G posted 01-10-2010 06:09 PM ET (US)
I recommend Blade read this thread also:
http://whalercentral.com/forum/viewthread.php?thread_id=8998&pid=56247

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Author	Topic: Repairing Small Holes In Wood; Varnishes
blade	posted 01-06-2010 05:12 PM ET (US) I just started stripping the wood [on a 1984 Boston Whaler SUPER SPORT 13]. What do you use to repair small holes in the wood? Wood filler I assume. Is one [brand of wood filler] better than the others [for making repairs to small holes in the wood on a Boston Whaler 13-footer]? Is there a bleaching agent [that can be used on] weathered spots? Or, should I just varnish right over the gray spots that I have sanded down? Is it a no-no to use the McCloskeys Marine brand of spar varnish? I was going to use the semi-gloss. What do you think? Should I pay the extra bucks for the Z-spar Flagship varnish? Any thoughts or links appreciated. Thanks, Blade
dscew	posted 01-06-2010 07:17 PM ET (US) Depending on the size of the holes, you could use filler or mahogany bungs cut with a plug cutter (an inexpensive tool you can use in a small drill). Grey spots in the wood will likely end up black with varnish on them. I would try to bleach them out or sand through them if not too deep. I've varnished hundreds of board feet of Whaler mahogany, and for my money, it's Zspar Flagship hands down. IMO, it has the best overall color, brings out the best of mahogany, and has a high degree of UV protection. Quite simply, it's gorgeous and durable.
blade	posted 01-07-2010 12:32 AM ET (US) Great advice on the plug cutter! I'll try that. Can I use just regular household bleach on the wood to get the black and gray spots out? Thanks again. Blade
dscew	posted 01-07-2010 07:02 AM ET (US) I've used regular household bleach without any negative results; lots of rinsing is a good idea. There are some bleaches specifically made for use on wood, but I've never tried them. Others on this forum may have suggestions regarding that.
jimh	posted 01-07-2010 09:14 AM ET (US) It is common on teak that a black substance (presumed to be some type of mildew or mold) will accumulate in the grain. Several products are sold as teak cleaners. Their effectiveness at removing the black material varies with brand. I have never tried using common household chlorine laundry bleach to remove the black substance from the grain of teak. A good article on wood care is available in the REFERENCE section: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/whalerWood.html
macfam	posted 01-07-2010 03:11 PM ET (US) With mahogany, the dark spot where water has intruded can be lighted by bleaching with oxalic acid. These wood bleaches are sold in most hardware stores and come in the form of oxalic crystals that are mixed in water to make a paste. It will lighten, but rarely 100 % These areas are generally where the SS finish washers have penetrated the varnish. To prevent this from reoccuring, place a slightly larger SS fender washer underneath the finish washer after varnishing.
Tohsgib	posted 01-07-2010 05:24 PM ET (US) I think it is called Dolphin bleach cleaner, it is 2 part, the brightener works great but again not 100%. Anything you use will raise the grain and hence more sanding will be required. Use the best varnish possible. Mike @ Nautical uses this new stuff that is $44/qt...worth it in my opinion.
Tohsgib	posted 01-07-2010 05:44 PM ET (US) PS...if you need to fill in some small holes here is what I do. I save some sawdust from the seats and then make a paste out of it with wood or Elmer's glue...old wood worker/cabinet maker's trick.
BobL	posted 01-07-2010 09:34 PM ET (US) I refinished my SUPER SPORT 15 this fall and used two methods to fill holes in the mahogany. I drilled out the bigger screw holes with a 3/8-inch Forstener bit. Forstener bits cut holes much smoother and cleaner than simple twist bits. The holes can be filled with mahogany bungs ( or plugs) as dscew stated above. You can make the bungs yourself with a 3/8-inch plug cutter or buy the bungs at a marine supply store. Forstener bits and bung cutters are available at home centers or hardware stores. A drill press is best to cut the bungs. The Forstener bit can be used with a drill and a steady hand. I like to use Titebond III carpenter's glue because it is waterproof and dries in a few hours. Try to align the grain of the bung with the grain of the wood you are plugging. When the glue is dry, cut the bung with a fine-tooth saw or a sharp chisel. I cut the bungs a little high and sand them flush with a palm sander. Another technique of woodworkers is to fill small imperfections with glue and sawdust as Tohsgib mentioned. Squirt a little carpenter’s glue into the hole and rub sawdust in. Sand the excess sawdust flush with a palm sander right away and allow it to dry. Bob L Screw holes bunged in my side rail from a previous owner’s rod holder http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2619/4162262772_851a0b8f2d_b.jpg
dscew	posted 01-07-2010 09:47 PM ET (US) Very nice repair!
blade	posted 01-08-2010 12:45 PM ET (US) Awesome information! I will attempt household bleach first and see where that takes me. Thank you! Blade
hauptjm	posted 01-08-2010 04:11 PM ET (US) Teka A, Teka B teak cleaning product. Be careful with it though as it will raise your grain fairly quickly. Maybe it's me, but I find the type of repairs shown in BobL's link quite attractive. On a boat, it gives the wood character. Of course, the repair HAS to be followed by a perfect finish on the varnish or it just looks all wrong.
L H G	posted 01-10-2010 06:09 PM ET (US) I recommend Blade read this thread also: http://whalercentral.com/forum/viewthread.php?thread_id=8998&pid=56247