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Author Topic:   Repair Advice: Refuse to Buy Service Manual

Marathon posted 01-13-2010 05:49 PM ET (US)
[Moved from another discussion on a different topic--jimh]
I am a novice and this is my first boat motor purchase, so I apologize ahead for my ignorance, and highly appreciate any recommendations you have. I just bought a Johnson SeaHorse 4.5-HP outboard Model J5RLCS, a 1980, rope start with long shaft--is that correct? The seller said it had been in storage for two years. Upon buying it, I was able to turn the motor a few times with starter fluid straight into the carburetor and it gave a few turns, so then I can understand it is not seized, correct?
Please correct me where I may have gone wrong and advise what else I should do. I am doing this without a manual--I am too cheap to buy a manual--and am using the help of a friend that works in unrelated field as a maintenance man. Here is my self maintenance plan:
--pulled out the gas tank and cleaned it
--pulled out the two hoses from tank and will replace with new [hose] and clamps.
--pulled out the carburetor, spayed with with cleaner and currently is submerged in a container of un-blended gasoline.
--buy new carburetor gasket; what size?
--pulled out the propeller, cleaned the inside of the propeller
--will replace the cotter pin with new.
--the prop is painted white and the paint is chipping; will sand down the prop. Should I repaint it? My friend says exposed metal corrodes? Doea paint on the prop throw off the balance on the blades?
Still have to do:
--pull out spark plugs and replace. What plugs to buy? Where to buy them? I'm in Honolulu. If I buy new plugs, do I have to set the [spark gap]? Do they come set already?
--pull out the impeller and replace with new.
What moving parts need to be greased?
Should I pack the propeller with grease before mounting again?
I know these are a lot of questions, and I appreciate any feedback.
Mahalo.

R T M posted 01-14-2010 07:11 AM ET (US)
Check out this website for picture catalogs of all OMC engines from 1961 t0 1971. Match the picture in the various years catalog to your motor, and you have your info. Many of the Electromatic gearshifts were built in the '60's. I always heard they were problematic when they got to be old. Is that true?
http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post?id=3442998
rich/Binkie
jimh posted 01-14-2010 09:10 AM ET (US)
My advice to you:
--buy the service manual
--read the service manual
--follow the recommendations in the service manual
Marathon posted 01-14-2010 06:17 PM ET (US)
[Deleted a sidebard discussion about the separation of this discussion from another thread on a different topic.]
Update:
--replaced two spark plugs
--purchased new gasket paper and will score, cut, and replace carburetor gasket
Tell me what ratio of fuel and oil to use for the 1980 Johnson 4.5-HP seahorse. Can I use gas with ethanol? Will the ethanol hurt the engine? Should I use unblended gas?
Mahalo for any advice.
jimh posted 01-14-2010 11:13 PM ET (US)
Gasoline diluted with ethanol was not in widespread use in 1980 when your motor was manufactured. It could very well be that the motor has rubber components which will not tolerate ethanol fuel blends. If you can obtain gasoline without ethanol I recommend you use it.
Tohsgib posted 01-15-2010 12:23 PM ET (US)
Honestly if you don't know what ratio of oil to use....buy a manual.
Marathon posted 01-15-2010 03:36 PM ET (US)
Aloha,
Latest update: used 24:1 ratio fuel mix and ran fine, thinking I may move up to 50:1. It purrs like a kitten and feel very lucky, since I'm a novice to get this ol' timer started. Forward and Reverse works--Yippie! Next on the agenda, now that I have gotten the motor working, is to address the lower part of the outboard, and change the lower gear oil and also the impeller. Apologies, since I don't know the proper names for parts. I ran it in a small tub of water and only covered the propeller, maybe up to 3 or 4 inches above prop. What I noticed is there was no water coming out. I noticed smoke/exhaust coming from the bath. I noticed warm air and little smoke coming from under the motor casing on the back or stem of the leg (sorry....watchamacallit). Did I submerse the leg enough for water to go in circulate and come out? Where is the water intake hole? Where is the water [vulgarity deleted] Does the motor need to reach a certain hot temp, before water circulates? Should the water circulate [vulgarity deleted] in neutral or just when in gear.
Mahalo for the advice.
cgodfrey posted 01-16-2010 03:01 AM ET (US)
Marathon.
Under no circumstances should you run the motor again until you replace the impeller. If you notice the motor is not pumping water, you TURN IT OFF IMMEDIATELY. When you have replaced the impeller, give the lower unit plenty of water to draw on. No buckets. Not even the 5 gallon ones. You want a barrel, large garbage can, or special earmuffs that hook up to the garden hose and supply water to the motor.

R. T. F. M.
jimh posted 01-17-2010 09:40 AM ET (US)
Marathon writes:
"...I don't know the proper names for parts...."
A good way to learn the proper name for the components in your outboard engine is to purchase the owner's manual and the service manual. In the owner's manual and the service manual there will be illustrations which identify all the parts of the outboard motor. Also, if you do not know the name of a component in your outboard motor, please do not use a vulgar name for it. The website is read by many people and vulgar language should not be used. Please re-read the guidelines for posting articles which explicitly twice caution against the use of vulgar language.
Buckda posted 01-18-2010 11:08 AM ET (US)
I will speculate that your method of trial and error will likely extract significantly more cash from your wallet than would the advance purchase of a manual, as well as the time to read and understand what it is telling you.
However, as everyone knows, education is expensive. The best education is typically the most expensive. I believe you will learn (and pay) a lot in gaining that experience and education on this motor.
kglinz posted 01-18-2010 11:25 AM ET (US)
I'm with Marathon. Don't waste money on a manual. Just run it till it blows. Your replacement motor will probably come with a manual.

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Author	Topic: Repair Advice: Refuse to Buy Service Manual
Marathon	posted 01-13-2010 05:49 PM ET (US) [Moved from another discussion on a different topic--jimh] I am a novice and this is my first boat motor purchase, so I apologize ahead for my ignorance, and highly appreciate any recommendations you have. I just bought a Johnson SeaHorse 4.5-HP outboard Model J5RLCS, a 1980, rope start with long shaft--is that correct? The seller said it had been in storage for two years. Upon buying it, I was able to turn the motor a few times with starter fluid straight into the carburetor and it gave a few turns, so then I can understand it is not seized, correct? Please correct me where I may have gone wrong and advise what else I should do. I am doing this without a manual--I am too cheap to buy a manual--and am using the help of a friend that works in unrelated field as a maintenance man. Here is my self maintenance plan: --pulled out the gas tank and cleaned it --pulled out the two hoses from tank and will replace with new [hose] and clamps. --pulled out the carburetor, spayed with with cleaner and currently is submerged in a container of un-blended gasoline. --buy new carburetor gasket; what size? --pulled out the propeller, cleaned the inside of the propeller --will replace the cotter pin with new. --the prop is painted white and the paint is chipping; will sand down the prop. Should I repaint it? My friend says exposed metal corrodes? Doea paint on the prop throw off the balance on the blades? Still have to do: --pull out spark plugs and replace. What plugs to buy? Where to buy them? I'm in Honolulu. If I buy new plugs, do I have to set the [spark gap]? Do they come set already? --pull out the impeller and replace with new. What moving parts need to be greased? Should I pack the propeller with grease before mounting again? I know these are a lot of questions, and I appreciate any feedback. Mahalo.
R T M	posted 01-14-2010 07:11 AM ET (US) Check out this website for picture catalogs of all OMC engines from 1961 t0 1971. Match the picture in the various years catalog to your motor, and you have your info. Many of the Electromatic gearshifts were built in the '60's. I always heard they were problematic when they got to be old. Is that true? http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post?id=3442998 rich/Binkie
jimh	posted 01-14-2010 09:10 AM ET (US) My advice to you: --buy the service manual --read the service manual --follow the recommendations in the service manual
Marathon	posted 01-14-2010 06:17 PM ET (US) [Deleted a sidebard discussion about the separation of this discussion from another thread on a different topic.] Update: --replaced two spark plugs --purchased new gasket paper and will score, cut, and replace carburetor gasket Tell me what ratio of fuel and oil to use for the 1980 Johnson 4.5-HP seahorse. Can I use gas with ethanol? Will the ethanol hurt the engine? Should I use unblended gas? Mahalo for any advice.
jimh	posted 01-14-2010 11:13 PM ET (US) Gasoline diluted with ethanol was not in widespread use in 1980 when your motor was manufactured. It could very well be that the motor has rubber components which will not tolerate ethanol fuel blends. If you can obtain gasoline without ethanol I recommend you use it.
Tohsgib	posted 01-15-2010 12:23 PM ET (US) Honestly if you don't know what ratio of oil to use....buy a manual.
Marathon	posted 01-15-2010 03:36 PM ET (US) Aloha, Latest update: used 24:1 ratio fuel mix and ran fine, thinking I may move up to 50:1. It purrs like a kitten and feel very lucky, since I'm a novice to get this ol' timer started. Forward and Reverse works--Yippie! Next on the agenda, now that I have gotten the motor working, is to address the lower part of the outboard, and change the lower gear oil and also the impeller. Apologies, since I don't know the proper names for parts. I ran it in a small tub of water and only covered the propeller, maybe up to 3 or 4 inches above prop. What I noticed is there was no water coming out. I noticed smoke/exhaust coming from the bath. I noticed warm air and little smoke coming from under the motor casing on the back or stem of the leg (sorry....watchamacallit). Did I submerse the leg enough for water to go in circulate and come out? Where is the water intake hole? Where is the water [vulgarity deleted] Does the motor need to reach a certain hot temp, before water circulates? Should the water circulate [vulgarity deleted] in neutral or just when in gear. Mahalo for the advice.
cgodfrey	posted 01-16-2010 03:01 AM ET (US) Marathon. Under no circumstances should you run the motor again until you replace the impeller. If you notice the motor is not pumping water, you TURN IT OFF IMMEDIATELY. When you have replaced the impeller, give the lower unit plenty of water to draw on. No buckets. Not even the 5 gallon ones. You want a barrel, large garbage can, or special earmuffs that hook up to the garden hose and supply water to the motor. R. T. F. M.
jimh	posted 01-17-2010 09:40 AM ET (US) Marathon writes: "...I don't know the proper names for parts...." A good way to learn the proper name for the components in your outboard engine is to purchase the owner's manual and the service manual. In the owner's manual and the service manual there will be illustrations which identify all the parts of the outboard motor. Also, if you do not know the name of a component in your outboard motor, please do not use a vulgar name for it. The website is read by many people and vulgar language should not be used. Please re-read the guidelines for posting articles which explicitly twice caution against the use of vulgar language.
Buckda	posted 01-18-2010 11:08 AM ET (US) I will speculate that your method of trial and error will likely extract significantly more cash from your wallet than would the advance purchase of a manual, as well as the time to read and understand what it is telling you. However, as everyone knows, education is expensive. The best education is typically the most expensive. I believe you will learn (and pay) a lot in gaining that experience and education on this motor.
kglinz	posted 01-18-2010 11:25 AM ET (US) I'm with Marathon. Don't waste money on a manual. Just run it till it blows. Your replacement motor will probably come with a manual.