Trailer Disc Brakes: Axle Bearing Overhaul - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Trailer Disc Brakes: Axle Bearing Overhaul

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Trailer Disc Brakes: Axle Bearing Overhaul

jimh posted 04-06-2010 03:09 PM ET (US)
On a typical boat trailer installation of disc brakes, can the wheel hub be removed from the axle for the purpose of overhauling the wheel bearings, without removing the disc brake caliper assembly?
contender posted 04-06-2010 03:34 PM ET (US)
The caliper should slide off and you should be able to put it to the side so you can pull the disc off. The part that supports the caliper in position should be bolted to the axle or something that will hold it in place. You may need a large c clamp to depress the pistion in the caliper to put it back on the disc when you are done. Good luck
andygere posted 04-06-2010 05:49 PM ET (US)
Jim,
There are two basic configurations, but in each case the caliper needs to be moved out of the way in order to service the bearings.
The most common type uses a hub with an integral rotor. The caliper attaches to the mounting flange with a pair of bolts and can be moved out of the way quite easily to access the hub/rotor. One bolt is removed, the other loosened, and the caliper swings clear of the rotor. The hub/rotor goes on the axle in exactly the same way that a standard idler hub does.
The less common type uses an ordinary idler hub and a "top hat" style rotor that slides over the top of the hub, and is secured to it by being clamped between the wheel rim and the hub via the studs and lug nuts. The disadvantage of this arrangement (as reported by the manufacturers) is that there is the possibility of run-out, or a change in the distance between the hub and the rotor, presumably due to corrosion of the hub or different heat expansion rates of dissimilar metals.
The Kodiak branded systems use cast iron for the integral hub/rotor, and the buyer has a choice of several different corrosion resistant treatments. My system uses silver cadmium plating, and after 2 years the system is working very well, with no corrosion issues on the hub/rotor. I chose a system where all the other parts are stainless steel, including the mounting flange, caliper and slide pins, and none of these have any corrosion problems either.
If you want stainless steel rotors, the Kodiaks are only offered with the separate hub and rotor configuration. Other brands may be configured differently.
After a lot of research, I concluded that the cast iron systems dissipate heat better and have great longevity when the better corrosion protection systems are applied to them. This is consistent with my experience so far.
Here's a few photos of my system, taken during installation:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/Kodiak%20Brakes/
high sierra posted 04-07-2010 11:57 AM ET (US)
No[, the wheel hub cannot be removed from the axle for the purpose of overhauling the wheel bearings, without removing the disc brake caliper assembly]
jimh posted 04-07-2010 09:43 PM ET (US)
It sounds like disc brakes create some extra work when you need to work on a wheel bearing. You have to tear off the calipers.
DeeVee posted 04-07-2010 10:57 PM ET (US)
Jim,
I concur with Andy, the removal of a caliper is virtually five minutes of work, at most, each.
I did not spring for the nicer brake set up like Andy did when I added brakes to my trailer 4 years ago. I bought the relatively inexpensive Tiedown system.
The rotors are looking a little rough, but everything still works well. I have replaced the pads once so far. I usually lube up the pistons and caliper pin bolts a couple of days after I use the boat/trailer. I believe that may have something to do with the continued serviceability of the system.
My boat/trailer combination is used exclusively in salt water. The boat is stored on the trailer, under cover in a carport.
Doug Vazquez
andygere posted 04-08-2010 01:46 AM ET (US)
Jim, moving the calipers out of the way is no big deal. It's a lot easier than trying to get a rusty brake drum off of the backing plate assembly. You don't actually have to tear off the calipers, just remove one bolt and pivot the assembly out of the way. Believe me, disc brakes are much less trouble to maintain than drums.
jimh posted 04-09-2010 09:10 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the clarification on the simplicity of removing the caliper assembly prior to servicing the bearing.
andygere posted 04-10-2010 12:38 AM ET (US)
Jim, if you are thinking about installing disc brakes, I'd be happy to share the details on my experience including vendors, parts selection and installation tips. For me, it was very much worth the expense, and the installation was straightforward and simple to do.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Trailer Disc Brakes: Axle Bearing Overhaul
jimh	posted 04-06-2010 03:09 PM ET (US) On a typical boat trailer installation of disc brakes, can the wheel hub be removed from the axle for the purpose of overhauling the wheel bearings, without removing the disc brake caliper assembly?
contender	posted 04-06-2010 03:34 PM ET (US) The caliper should slide off and you should be able to put it to the side so you can pull the disc off. The part that supports the caliper in position should be bolted to the axle or something that will hold it in place. You may need a large c clamp to depress the pistion in the caliper to put it back on the disc when you are done. Good luck
andygere	posted 04-06-2010 05:49 PM ET (US) Jim, There are two basic configurations, but in each case the caliper needs to be moved out of the way in order to service the bearings. The most common type uses a hub with an integral rotor. The caliper attaches to the mounting flange with a pair of bolts and can be moved out of the way quite easily to access the hub/rotor. One bolt is removed, the other loosened, and the caliper swings clear of the rotor. The hub/rotor goes on the axle in exactly the same way that a standard idler hub does. The less common type uses an ordinary idler hub and a "top hat" style rotor that slides over the top of the hub, and is secured to it by being clamped between the wheel rim and the hub via the studs and lug nuts. The disadvantage of this arrangement (as reported by the manufacturers) is that there is the possibility of run-out, or a change in the distance between the hub and the rotor, presumably due to corrosion of the hub or different heat expansion rates of dissimilar metals. The Kodiak branded systems use cast iron for the integral hub/rotor, and the buyer has a choice of several different corrosion resistant treatments. My system uses silver cadmium plating, and after 2 years the system is working very well, with no corrosion issues on the hub/rotor. I chose a system where all the other parts are stainless steel, including the mounting flange, caliper and slide pins, and none of these have any corrosion problems either. If you want stainless steel rotors, the Kodiaks are only offered with the separate hub and rotor configuration. Other brands may be configured differently. After a lot of research, I concluded that the cast iron systems dissipate heat better and have great longevity when the better corrosion protection systems are applied to them. This is consistent with my experience so far. Here's a few photos of my system, taken during installation: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/Kodiak%20Brakes/
high sierra	posted 04-07-2010 11:57 AM ET (US) No[, the wheel hub cannot be removed from the axle for the purpose of overhauling the wheel bearings, without removing the disc brake caliper assembly]
jimh	posted 04-07-2010 09:43 PM ET (US) It sounds like disc brakes create some extra work when you need to work on a wheel bearing. You have to tear off the calipers.
DeeVee	posted 04-07-2010 10:57 PM ET (US) Jim, I concur with Andy, the removal of a caliper is virtually five minutes of work, at most, each. I did not spring for the nicer brake set up like Andy did when I added brakes to my trailer 4 years ago. I bought the relatively inexpensive Tiedown system. The rotors are looking a little rough, but everything still works well. I have replaced the pads once so far. I usually lube up the pistons and caliper pin bolts a couple of days after I use the boat/trailer. I believe that may have something to do with the continued serviceability of the system. My boat/trailer combination is used exclusively in salt water. The boat is stored on the trailer, under cover in a carport. Doug Vazquez
andygere	posted 04-08-2010 01:46 AM ET (US) Jim, moving the calipers out of the way is no big deal. It's a lot easier than trying to get a rusty brake drum off of the backing plate assembly. You don't actually have to tear off the calipers, just remove one bolt and pivot the assembly out of the way. Believe me, disc brakes are much less trouble to maintain than drums.
jimh	posted 04-09-2010 09:10 AM ET (US) Thanks for the clarification on the simplicity of removing the caliper assembly prior to servicing the bearing.
andygere	posted 04-10-2010 12:38 AM ET (US) Jim, if you are thinking about installing disc brakes, I'd be happy to share the details on my experience including vendors, parts selection and installation tips. For me, it was very much worth the expense, and the installation was straightforward and simple to do.