Removing Bottom Paint - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  Removing Bottom Paint

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Removing Bottom Paint

dlschutz posted 04-29-2010 01:32 PM ET (US)
Hello all!. Now that I've decided on my trim tab install specs, it is time to strip some bottom paint on the transom of my [1922]. [Editor's note: very old boat!] I'm going to clean up the whole trasom as there are a few holes to plug and don't know what else might be lurking under the 20 years of paint. Any advice on paint strippers? Have heard good results with expensive Peel Away. I've used Easy Off with great success on graphics but don't really think it [is] toxic enough for a job like this. For metals there are all kinds of good choices, but have very limited experience with fiberglass and gel coat stripping. Need to get it clean enough, like 80 or 100 grit, to see what's there. Will then clean up areas to repair, plug, fill sand and paint. Your wisdom my friends? Dave
tjxtreme posted 04-29-2010 01:41 PM ET (US)
"The best tool for removing bottom paint is your checkbook."
-Jim Hebert

I can attest to this, I just removed it myself on a 13 and it was a big pain. I can't imagine on a 22.
tom976 posted 04-29-2010 03:01 PM ET (US)
Soda blasting is what they do at marinas.
As for the guy at home.. Peel away is an option.
I haven't used it. You "paint" it on, stick a special "paper" to it, peel it off & throw it away.
dlschutz posted 04-29-2010 03:34 PM ET (US)
Yeah, have to agree checkbook, pile of cash most effective way. Soda blasting is definitely the way to go for complete refinish and barrier coat. In this case, just transom of boat for the reasons stated, and to get the job done and the boat back in the water where it belongs. Keep those cards and letters comin'! Dave
tjxtreme posted 04-29-2010 04:26 PM ET (US)
I'd try some of the oven cleaners as discussed in other threads. That didn't work too well on mine, but others have reported good results. I'd try the easiest thing first, then move on to more involved methods if that doesn't work.
burning_hXc_soul posted 04-29-2010 04:27 PM ET (US)
I stripped all the paint off of my truck to put a roll-on bedliner in it and I used Airplane Paint Remover that you can buy at Advance Auto Parts for about $7 bucks a can. You just spray it on and in about 20 minutes the paint is bubbled up and can just be scrapped off. I have no idea what airplane paint remover would do to bottom paint, your gel-coat, or fiberglass but it's an possibility.
burning_hXc_soul posted 04-29-2010 04:29 PM ET (US)
Oh, yeah, if you do use it, when the can says CAUTION: TOXIC. They really mean it. I used my Army gas mask and I still had to spray for 30 seconds and then walk away. And I used it outside. It's really strong stuff.
dlschutz posted 04-29-2010 05:18 PM ET (US)
Hi burning. Ah yeah, um, I'm sure it worked great on your truck. Most likely it contained methylene chloride or even better stuff. This why your handle is "burning"? Aircraft strippers work great as you know and leave you 'burning' for quite some time--will also melt fiberglass if left on too long. Don't use it on your [1956] Corvette. How'd the truck bed come out? Dave
dlschutz posted 04-29-2010 05:27 PM ET (US)
I'm going outside right now to spray some "Easy Off." Wind's outta' the NE 18-20 knots,the transom is down wind, shouldn't be a problem.
dlschutz posted 04-29-2010 05:52 PM ET (US)
Ok then. The oven cleaner does not work very well although I must admit, the transom does smell lemon fresh.
jimh posted 04-29-2010 10:04 PM ET (US)
If you are just removing the bottom paint from the transom, the project is manageable. The transom is easy to work on compared to the hull bottom. The ease of removal of the bottom paint will be in inverse proportion to the amount of preparation used to apply it. If the anti-fouling paint was applied to the hull without the hull being abraded, the paint may come off without too much trouble. If the hull was properly prepared for the anti-fouling paint by being rough sanded, removing all the bottom paint will be a chore. Keep us posted on your results.
dlschutz posted 04-30-2010 04:37 PM ET (US)
Hi jimh,
As aside, thanks for input on trim tab subject. I think there are many who do not realize the substantial improvement in performance and comfort that can be had with this relatively inexpensive and simple modification.
Latest on stripping:
Was in Lowes today and took a stroll down chemical aisle. Picked up a quart of "Peel Away"...
Just slathered on a bit in the lower corner of the transom. Unlike methylene chloride strippers, it goes on very smoothly with a nice even, heavy coat. No noxious smell or burning and stays put without sagging. I'm trying to imagine how it can get the job done...
I'm going to leave it on for a while, as it has very low evaporation rate. Will check periodically but it seems to be pretty friendly stuff.... I hate that.
No skull and crossbones, and pets seem to like the taste.
What's this world coming to?
Will let you all know.
Dave
dlschutz posted 05-01-2010 03:11 PM ET (US)
Well....
Left the "Peel Away" on overnight. It was in low 60's last night and near 70 early this morning.
The stuff was still wet and hadn't sagged one bit.
Result:
Took about 9 coats of paint off, I think it was still working, but impatience got the better of me. Scraped it off and put another coat on; 6 hrs later scraped it off (plastic spreader) took last couple coats off down to the gel.
Clean up with acetone and cotton wrag and it's good to go!
Gel coat looks like 80 or 100 finish underneath, no damage to speak of, a couple of screw holes (improper repair) no leaks, will plug tomorrow....
Conclusion:
Good stuff if you need to do small area for repair or refinish. At $16 a quart, it would likely cost $3,000 and take a couple of years to do the whole bottom... You will also need chiropractor
If you want to strip the entire bottom, for whatever reason, the only way to go is soda or walnut shell blasting. No arguments here, I have experience.
Next: Trim tabs, 9.9 kicker...
Thanks to all,
Dave
elaelap posted 05-02-2010 11:19 AM ET (US)
"The oven cleaner does not work very well although I must admit, the transom does smell lemon fresh."
;-)
MATTANZA posted 05-07-2010 02:03 AM ET (US)
I took 30 years of bottom paint of my boat with Jasco heavy duty epoxy & paint remover. It's a thick jell. You paint it on, let it sit for 15 minute and scrape off. It'll take most of the paint off in the first coat. I wet sanded the gel coat to get the residual paint off, 100 grit - 1000. I will use 3M compounds and polishes. I've got the paint off the sides and transom , the hull will be a major bitch.
dlschutz posted 05-07-2010 09:18 AM ET (US)
MATTANZA, Just flip her over on saw horses, my friend.
If the console, t-top, etc. does not clear the ground, simply dig a hole underneath. This will also provide storage area for old paint, striper, and maybe your cell phone and car keys. Also, this method will prevent excessive sagging of the striper and save material.....
Isn't it great how the most gratifing part of the job takes only 10% of the time, while the worst of it takes 90%?
Kidding aside, thanks for the info. I'd like to say "I hope it goes well", but I'm with you, it's going to be a bitch!
Best,
Dave

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Removing Bottom Paint
dlschutz	posted 04-29-2010 01:32 PM ET (US) Hello all!. Now that I've decided on my trim tab install specs, it is time to strip some bottom paint on the transom of my [1922]. [Editor's note: very old boat!] I'm going to clean up the whole trasom as there are a few holes to plug and don't know what else might be lurking under the 20 years of paint. Any advice on paint strippers? Have heard good results with expensive Peel Away. I've used Easy Off with great success on graphics but don't really think it [is] toxic enough for a job like this. For metals there are all kinds of good choices, but have very limited experience with fiberglass and gel coat stripping. Need to get it clean enough, like 80 or 100 grit, to see what's there. Will then clean up areas to repair, plug, fill sand and paint. Your wisdom my friends? Dave
tjxtreme	posted 04-29-2010 01:41 PM ET (US) "The best tool for removing bottom paint is your checkbook." -Jim Hebert I can attest to this, I just removed it myself on a 13 and it was a big pain. I can't imagine on a 22.
tom976	posted 04-29-2010 03:01 PM ET (US) Soda blasting is what they do at marinas. As for the guy at home.. Peel away is an option. I haven't used it. You "paint" it on, stick a special "paper" to it, peel it off & throw it away.
dlschutz	posted 04-29-2010 03:34 PM ET (US) Yeah, have to agree checkbook, pile of cash most effective way. Soda blasting is definitely the way to go for complete refinish and barrier coat. In this case, just transom of boat for the reasons stated, and to get the job done and the boat back in the water where it belongs. Keep those cards and letters comin'! Dave
tjxtreme	posted 04-29-2010 04:26 PM ET (US) I'd try some of the oven cleaners as discussed in other threads. That didn't work too well on mine, but others have reported good results. I'd try the easiest thing first, then move on to more involved methods if that doesn't work.
burning_hXc_soul	posted 04-29-2010 04:27 PM ET (US) I stripped all the paint off of my truck to put a roll-on bedliner in it and I used Airplane Paint Remover that you can buy at Advance Auto Parts for about $7 bucks a can. You just spray it on and in about 20 minutes the paint is bubbled up and can just be scrapped off. I have no idea what airplane paint remover would do to bottom paint, your gel-coat, or fiberglass but it's an possibility.
burning_hXc_soul	posted 04-29-2010 04:29 PM ET (US) Oh, yeah, if you do use it, when the can says CAUTION: TOXIC. They really mean it. I used my Army gas mask and I still had to spray for 30 seconds and then walk away. And I used it outside. It's really strong stuff.
dlschutz	posted 04-29-2010 05:18 PM ET (US) Hi burning. Ah yeah, um, I'm sure it worked great on your truck. Most likely it contained methylene chloride or even better stuff. This why your handle is "burning"? Aircraft strippers work great as you know and leave you 'burning' for quite some time--will also melt fiberglass if left on too long. Don't use it on your [1956] Corvette. How'd the truck bed come out? Dave
dlschutz	posted 04-29-2010 05:27 PM ET (US) I'm going outside right now to spray some "Easy Off." Wind's outta' the NE 18-20 knots,the transom is down wind, shouldn't be a problem.
dlschutz	posted 04-29-2010 05:52 PM ET (US) Ok then. The oven cleaner does not work very well although I must admit, the transom does smell lemon fresh.
jimh	posted 04-29-2010 10:04 PM ET (US) If you are just removing the bottom paint from the transom, the project is manageable. The transom is easy to work on compared to the hull bottom. The ease of removal of the bottom paint will be in inverse proportion to the amount of preparation used to apply it. If the anti-fouling paint was applied to the hull without the hull being abraded, the paint may come off without too much trouble. If the hull was properly prepared for the anti-fouling paint by being rough sanded, removing all the bottom paint will be a chore. Keep us posted on your results.
dlschutz	posted 04-30-2010 04:37 PM ET (US) Hi jimh, As aside, thanks for input on trim tab subject. I think there are many who do not realize the substantial improvement in performance and comfort that can be had with this relatively inexpensive and simple modification. Latest on stripping: Was in Lowes today and took a stroll down chemical aisle. Picked up a quart of "Peel Away"... Just slathered on a bit in the lower corner of the transom. Unlike methylene chloride strippers, it goes on very smoothly with a nice even, heavy coat. No noxious smell or burning and stays put without sagging. I'm trying to imagine how it can get the job done... I'm going to leave it on for a while, as it has very low evaporation rate. Will check periodically but it seems to be pretty friendly stuff.... I hate that. No skull and crossbones, and pets seem to like the taste. What's this world coming to? Will let you all know. Dave
dlschutz	posted 05-01-2010 03:11 PM ET (US) Well.... Left the "Peel Away" on overnight. It was in low 60's last night and near 70 early this morning. The stuff was still wet and hadn't sagged one bit. Result: Took about 9 coats of paint off, I think it was still working, but impatience got the better of me. Scraped it off and put another coat on; 6 hrs later scraped it off (plastic spreader) took last couple coats off down to the gel. Clean up with acetone and cotton wrag and it's good to go! Gel coat looks like 80 or 100 finish underneath, no damage to speak of, a couple of screw holes (improper repair) no leaks, will plug tomorrow.... Conclusion: Good stuff if you need to do small area for repair or refinish. At $16 a quart, it would likely cost $3,000 and take a couple of years to do the whole bottom... You will also need chiropractor If you want to strip the entire bottom, for whatever reason, the only way to go is soda or walnut shell blasting. No arguments here, I have experience. Next: Trim tabs, 9.9 kicker... Thanks to all, Dave
elaelap	posted 05-02-2010 11:19 AM ET (US) "The oven cleaner does not work very well although I must admit, the transom does smell lemon fresh." ;-)
MATTANZA	posted 05-07-2010 02:03 AM ET (US) I took 30 years of bottom paint of my boat with Jasco heavy duty epoxy & paint remover. It's a thick jell. You paint it on, let it sit for 15 minute and scrape off. It'll take most of the paint off in the first coat. I wet sanded the gel coat to get the residual paint off, 100 grit - 1000. I will use 3M compounds and polishes. I've got the paint off the sides and transom , the hull will be a major bitch.
dlschutz	posted 05-07-2010 09:18 AM ET (US) MATTANZA, Just flip her over on saw horses, my friend. If the console, t-top, etc. does not clear the ground, simply dig a hole underneath. This will also provide storage area for old paint, striper, and maybe your cell phone and car keys. Also, this method will prevent excessive sagging of the striper and save material..... Isn't it great how the most gratifing part of the job takes only 10% of the time, while the worst of it takes 90%? Kidding aside, thanks for the info. I'd like to say "I hope it goes well", but I'm with you, it's going to be a bitch! Best, Dave