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  90's OMC 48hp dies at higher rpms

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Author Topic:   90's OMC 48hp dies at higher rpms
pcrussell50 posted 05-05-2010 11:22 PM ET (US)   Profile for pcrussell50   Send Email to pcrussell50  
Trying to help a friend of a friend... (my neighbor's friend). He's a super experienced fisherman, (40 years +), but has never really been much into his boats, except as a means to fish.

Anyway, he and my neighbor were out fishing the other day and the motor started acting up such that when they matted the throttle to get up on plane and cruising, it died on them... and then flooded, so it wouldn't restart. (They didn't know at the time that it was flooded).

So they bring it over to me today so I can have a look at it. It starts and idles, though I found that I had to hold the link bar connecting the butterflies, (twin carbs), slightly cracked for a few minutes until it warmed up, then it idled ok, with only a slight stumble or miss.

As out on the lake, when I tried to rev it, using the fast idle lever, it stumbled and hesitated before it would clear, and then rev. If I left it spooled up, it would do a quick stumble, then die. Sometimes, if I brought the fast idle paddle down quickly enough, it wouldn't die.

If not for the wonky, wet plug issues, it almost acted as if there is some kind of "failsafe" intentionally cutting the motor, but I've never had one of my own motors be sick enough to activate a failsafe.

Stuff that may or may not be related:

This is one of those models that has one of those weird solenoid "chokes" that doesn't actuate a linkage, but has fuel lines hooked up to it and a red lever knob with a Schrader valve. There is a small fuel leak from the red plastic knob, where the Schrader valve goes into it. Also, the tip of the solenoid shaft is supposed to be a something that rides in a semi-circular groove on the shaft of the red knob... but that "something" is now gone. I can't tell if that is enough to cause erratic fueling issues.

No matter how long we idled her, the telltale water never got warm, though the stream was strong.

My prescription to him would change that solenoid thing and test/replace the thermostat. But he is down on his luck, with the economy like it is, and doesn't want to "throw parts at it"

I didn't do any testing of the spark, since it started and idled fine as long as the plugs weren't wet. I've never had to chase down a problem of "no spark at high rpm", so if that's a possibility, what would you do to test it?

-Peter

-Peter

pcrussell50 posted 05-05-2010 11:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
Ok, that "weird solenoid choke" I referred to is the the QuickStart system's primer solenoid.

Can anyone run me through the diagnostic "tree" for troubleshooting this hombre?

I'm thinking at the very least, maybe I could pinch off it's fuel supply with some Vise Grips and take it out of the loop, once the motor is running. If it runs right then, maybe the solenoid is the culprit?

-Peter

jimh posted 05-06-2010 01:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Peter--I think you are asking about the fuel enrichment solenoid and manual valve. The device allows fuel to be pumped into the engine intake air stream. It is intended to be used to help start a cold engine by enrichment of the fuel-air ratio.

The valve can be operated electrically or manually. An electrical solenoid is wired to the remote start controls. Typically if you push in the ignition key switch, the solenoid is activated.

The valve can also be operated manually. The normal setting for the manual valve control is fully clockwise to close the valve. The valve is only opened in emergency situations to start a cold engine if the solenoid fails.

jimh posted 05-06-2010 01:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Because there is a Schrader inlet on the manual fuel enrichment valve body, and this is used to inject fogging oil in winterization procedures, it can happen that in the process of unthreading the fogging oil canister from the Schrader valve that the fuel enrichment valve will be inadvertently opened.

If the manual fuel enrichment valve is inadvertently left open, the engine running characteristics will be affected. The fuel-air ratio will be too rich. The engine will not idle well, and it may stall out.

It is easy to inadvertently open the manual valve. I speak from experience.

The manual valve normally has a red cap fitting with a wing pointer. If this has been lost, you can still probably turn the valve stem by hand.

pcrussell50 posted 05-06-2010 01:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
Bingo!

Thanks. I had read about that QuickStart system and those primer solenoids, but none of my motors have that system, so I never faced troubleshooting it and the knowledge atrophied. We had that primer solenoid fully counter-clockwise--er, that's the way I found it when it was brought to me. I'll get the boater with the stricken motor back over to my house tomorrow and try that and report back.

-Peter

Tohsgib posted 05-06-2010 11:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tohsgib  Send Email to Tohsgib     
They do go bad and they are like $79 but it sounds like it is stuck in manyual mode. If not bypass it and see.
pcrussell50 posted 05-06-2010 01:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
To properly bypass it, do you pull the main fuel feed line to the solenoid and plug it? Or is it something more involved?

BTW, the diaphragm and rotary valve and such are available separately for a few dollars in the event that those parts go bad, but the solenoid still works.

-Peter

Tohsgib posted 05-06-2010 02:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tohsgib  Send Email to Tohsgib     
I don't know how to bypass it, never did it nor do I have one to look at. Should be pretty self explanatory when you see it and follow the hoses. Might not be able to be bypassed for all I know.

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