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Author Topic:   SUPER SPORT 13 With Water In Hull

whitemtauto posted 06-17-2010 09:20 AM ET (US)
Last year I bought a 1987 [Boston] Whaler [SUPER SPORT] 13 that had sunk. I went through the 40-HP engine and [the engine] is fine. I used [the SUPER SPORT 13] a few times last year and [the boat] went like a slug. [The SUPER SPORT 13] will only handle two people and to get [the boat] to plane took a lot [of something]. Our other 13-foot [Boston Whaler boat] with only a 25-HP is a rocket compared to this one. I drilled three holes in [the hull of the SUPER SPORT 13] and let [the hull] set all winter and spring to drain. This model is supposed to weigh 420-lbs. This one weighs 570-lbs. I cannot believe that it has over 20-gallons of water in it! Any suggestions [on how to de-water a Boston Whaler boat]? Or, do I junk it? Thank you.
Tom W Clark posted 06-17-2010 09:23 AM ET (US)
Only 570 pound? That's nothing.
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001747.html
jimh posted 06-17-2010 09:35 AM ET (US)
See the FAQ for advice on de-watering a Boston Whaler.
Q3: Is There Water In My Hull?
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q3
GreatBayNH posted 06-17-2010 02:52 PM ET (US)
whoa whoa whoa...It sunk? Define "sunk".
DillonBW posted 06-17-2010 02:59 PM ET (US)
The idea of a sunken Boston Whaler is a complete myth.
Big Foot - yes. UFO - Yes. Elvis still alive - Yes.
Sunken Whaler - No way, cannot and will not believe that can ever happen!
Tohsgib posted 06-17-2010 03:20 PM ET (US)
They can get caught under a dok and sink when the tide comes up. This however would/could not ingest water into the hull. 150lbs is not a lot, especially since Whaler lied on many brochures about weight. I would drill about 6 small test holes sporatically across the bottom and see if anything comes out. It could be many things. The fact the engine is a dog is most likely engine related.
Plotman posted 06-17-2010 04:11 PM ET (US)
150 lbs of water makes it a dog? Something else is making it a dog. That's a fairly small person.
whitemtauto posted 06-17-2010 05:19 PM ET (US)
I bought this from an insurance auction. It had gone underwater. I spoke with the original owner and it got turned over in a bad storm while being moored. Where the rope was tied to on the bow, it had been pulled with so much pressure, it wore a hole in the fiberglass there. I had that fixed and I had the powerhead on the motor torn down and repaired. It runs great. When I first put it in the water, it was horrible. I thought that it might be because the 40hp Mercury 2 stroke was to heavy for the boat. When I moored it with the plug out of the back , like we do wit our other Whaler, it went so low in the water, the back well in front of the engine was almost completely full of water. When I took it out of the water last fall, I then looked over the whole boat and saw that it had a four cracks holes in the bottom. I then drilled a 1/2-inch hole in each of these so that the water could drain all winter. The holes were about 1/2-inch wide and 1-1/2-inches long. [The cause of the boat riding so low in the water] had to be that the hull was just filling up with water as we were moving along. I never saw much water come out, but I didn't put drain pans under it, either. I put this boat on race-car scales so I know that the actual weight is 570-lbs. This boat is the model that has the nice spray rail, the fiberglass seats, console, and cover over the gas tanks and battery. I now have the bottom repaired, and, after reading everythng that has been written for the past few years on this website, I have decided to finish painting the bottom, put my motor back on, and try [the boat]. Maybe [the SUPER SPORT 13] will go okay with two or three people in it. Or, if it is okday to use this summer, maybe I will have to do a more in-depth water removal next winter.
jimh posted 06-17-2010 08:48 PM ET (US)
How do you plan to perform a "more in-depth water removal"?
whitemtauto posted 06-17-2010 10:21 PM ET (US)
Plan A would be to drill some new holes and use the vacuum system. Plan B would be to drill 6 or so 1/2" holes in the bottom and put it in our heated paint booth for about an hour a day for 5 to 7 days. I would weigh it every other day. BUT, I am really open for any suggestions. Because I want to get it in the water for July 4th, I want to try it and with these holes plugged, I am "hoping" that it may go all right, or like a whaler that just has an extra 150lb person in it at all times.
brisboats posted 06-18-2010 09:05 AM ET (US)
Focus on the motor and leave the hull alone. Fiberglass seats and console the weight is probably OK. It is the motor.
Tohsgib posted 06-18-2010 09:08 AM ET (US)
I like the paint booth idea...keep us posted on that.
Tom W Clark posted 06-18-2010 09:58 AM ET (US)
A few things do not add up here. By your description you have a Super Sport Limited 13'. The specified weight of this model is 410 pounds. You have weighed this boat and found it to weigh 570 pounds which is 160 pounds more than normal.
160 pounds is, as David pointed out, the weight of one person and there is no way the addition of one person in a Sport 13 will affect its performance as much as you describe.
Furthermore, the depth to which the hull settles without it drain plug is very low. You describe almost filling the splashwell. That does suggests a badly waterlogged hull, but to a much greater extent than a mere 160 pounds.
How did you weigh the boat on the race car scale? Bare hull or complete boat (seats, steering, rails, etc.)?
As far as getting water out of a waterlogged Whaler hull, you have already discovered that it will not just *drain* out. Nor will suction be able to pull it out. Been there, tried that.
The only way to get water out of the foam core of a Whaler hull is to allow it to evaporate. Raising the temperature and reducing the humidity of where it is stored...plus time, will do that...eventually.
The paint booth idea is a good one, but instead of one hour a day for several days, you'll need 24 hours a day for several weeks to make any significant progress on loosing the water in the hull.
whitemtauto posted 06-18-2010 01:14 PM ET (US)
When I weighed it with the 4 racing electronic scales, it was complete minus the motor. It was bottom side up. As far as putting it in our paint booth and "baking it" for 24 hours a day for a period of time, it would cost me more in propane gas than the boat is worth. I have read everything that you all have written and linked to and have found this experience very helpfull. My motor actually runs perfect. I am going to check to see if someone might have switched the prop, but it looks like it is original and has never been off. It doesn't even have a nick in it. By trying to think this all out, I have decided to finish fixing the holes in the bottom that was there and the ones that I drilled and then putting the motor back on and trying it again. I did not see the cracks/holes it had in the bottom last summer. I believe that quite a bit of water could enter the hull, especially while moving. This might have been my problem. And I now agree that the extra 160 lbs was equal to the weight of one person. I will keep you posted as to the results and if by some chance I can find a cure. One side note. If anyone needs to weigh a boat to see what the total weight is, especially these little ones that a few people can lift, these electronic racing scales are very good. You get the total weight, but more importantly, you can see which of the 4 scales has the most weight so if I was ever going to drill and take a piece of the core out, you would know which quadrant to work in. Thanks to everyone for all the help.
Tom W Clark posted 06-18-2010 01:20 PM ET (US)
Check the part number on the prop. A wrong propeller can make a huge difference in the boat's performance.
It will not, however, change how it floats.
waterlogged posted 06-24-2010 09:27 AM ET (US)
"whitemtauto" I have a late 60's vintage 13 waterlogged to the gills and she still pops up on plane no problem with 25hp Yamaha, even with 4 people in it. Sounds like the engine is being fickle on that one. Loss of speed at WOT (wide open throttle) is one of most common symptoms in outboards. Good chance the corrosion issue from the dunking is behind it. Trouble shooting balls- either mechanical, fuel or electrical is culprit. Isolate the symptom and have at it! As for keeping the boat, unless the hull is delaminating, save the drying out for winter. There's a reason the good Lord lowers the humidity in winter, so we can work on that stuff when the ponds are frozen. Good luck!
whitemtauto posted 07-05-2010 09:32 PM ET (US)
I fixed the holes in the bottom, painted the bottom, took the boat to out place in Georgetowm, Me and launched it. The boat went quite well, even being a little heavy. The motor ran very well. Now my only problem is with our other whaler that has a 25hp Johnson, we just pull the plug and moor it. We leave it for weeks and it is fine. This SS has a 2003 Mercury 2cylinder, 2 stroke, with power tilt and trim. When I try to moor it with the plug out , it seems to be so heavy in the reat, the back fils up with water more than 1/2 way inside with water. It is more than 1/2 way up the battery. I got nervous and brought it to shore and took the battery out and left it with the plug out and beached close to shore where it should not go under water. Could it be that this motor is too heavy for this SS boat? Everyone's input has been very helpful so far. Thanks
Tohsgib posted 07-06-2010 11:20 AM ET (US)
Anything with a battery and a heavier than 110 engine will fill pretty good without the pkug. Put a bilge pump in it. With my setup it almost gets up to the splashwell and overflows.
whitemtauto posted 07-06-2010 04:39 PM ET (US)
I already have a bilge pump that I can set on automatic. The problem is I might not get back to Maine to use the boat to keep the battery charged soon enough and then would have a sunken boat. I am working on a solar charger that I could leave hooked up. I should have it ready by the next time I go back. I am always looking for sugestions. Thanks.

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Author	Topic: SUPER SPORT 13 With Water In Hull
whitemtauto	posted 06-17-2010 09:20 AM ET (US) Last year I bought a 1987 [Boston] Whaler [SUPER SPORT] 13 that had sunk. I went through the 40-HP engine and [the engine] is fine. I used [the SUPER SPORT 13] a few times last year and [the boat] went like a slug. [The SUPER SPORT 13] will only handle two people and to get [the boat] to plane took a lot [of something]. Our other 13-foot [Boston Whaler boat] with only a 25-HP is a rocket compared to this one. I drilled three holes in [the hull of the SUPER SPORT 13] and let [the hull] set all winter and spring to drain. This model is supposed to weigh 420-lbs. This one weighs 570-lbs. I cannot believe that it has over 20-gallons of water in it! Any suggestions [on how to de-water a Boston Whaler boat]? Or, do I junk it? Thank you.
Tom W Clark	posted 06-17-2010 09:23 AM ET (US) Only 570 pound? That's nothing. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001747.html
jimh	posted 06-17-2010 09:35 AM ET (US) See the FAQ for advice on de-watering a Boston Whaler. Q3: Is There Water In My Hull? http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q3
GreatBayNH	posted 06-17-2010 02:52 PM ET (US) whoa whoa whoa...It sunk? Define "sunk".
DillonBW	posted 06-17-2010 02:59 PM ET (US) The idea of a sunken Boston Whaler is a complete myth. Big Foot - yes. UFO - Yes. Elvis still alive - Yes. Sunken Whaler - No way, cannot and will not believe that can ever happen!
Tohsgib	posted 06-17-2010 03:20 PM ET (US) They can get caught under a dok and sink when the tide comes up. This however would/could not ingest water into the hull. 150lbs is not a lot, especially since Whaler lied on many brochures about weight. I would drill about 6 small test holes sporatically across the bottom and see if anything comes out. It could be many things. The fact the engine is a dog is most likely engine related.
Plotman	posted 06-17-2010 04:11 PM ET (US) 150 lbs of water makes it a dog? Something else is making it a dog. That's a fairly small person.
whitemtauto	posted 06-17-2010 05:19 PM ET (US) I bought this from an insurance auction. It had gone underwater. I spoke with the original owner and it got turned over in a bad storm while being moored. Where the rope was tied to on the bow, it had been pulled with so much pressure, it wore a hole in the fiberglass there. I had that fixed and I had the powerhead on the motor torn down and repaired. It runs great. When I first put it in the water, it was horrible. I thought that it might be because the 40hp Mercury 2 stroke was to heavy for the boat. When I moored it with the plug out of the back , like we do wit our other Whaler, it went so low in the water, the back well in front of the engine was almost completely full of water. When I took it out of the water last fall, I then looked over the whole boat and saw that it had a four cracks holes in the bottom. I then drilled a 1/2-inch hole in each of these so that the water could drain all winter. The holes were about 1/2-inch wide and 1-1/2-inches long. [The cause of the boat riding so low in the water] had to be that the hull was just filling up with water as we were moving along. I never saw much water come out, but I didn't put drain pans under it, either. I put this boat on race-car scales so I know that the actual weight is 570-lbs. This boat is the model that has the nice spray rail, the fiberglass seats, console, and cover over the gas tanks and battery. I now have the bottom repaired, and, after reading everythng that has been written for the past few years on this website, I have decided to finish painting the bottom, put my motor back on, and try [the boat]. Maybe [the SUPER SPORT 13] will go okay with two or three people in it. Or, if it is okday to use this summer, maybe I will have to do a more in-depth water removal next winter.
jimh	posted 06-17-2010 08:48 PM ET (US) How do you plan to perform a "more in-depth water removal"?
whitemtauto	posted 06-17-2010 10:21 PM ET (US) Plan A would be to drill some new holes and use the vacuum system. Plan B would be to drill 6 or so 1/2" holes in the bottom and put it in our heated paint booth for about an hour a day for 5 to 7 days. I would weigh it every other day. BUT, I am really open for any suggestions. Because I want to get it in the water for July 4th, I want to try it and with these holes plugged, I am "hoping" that it may go all right, or like a whaler that just has an extra 150lb person in it at all times.
brisboats	posted 06-18-2010 09:05 AM ET (US) Focus on the motor and leave the hull alone. Fiberglass seats and console the weight is probably OK. It is the motor.
Tohsgib	posted 06-18-2010 09:08 AM ET (US) I like the paint booth idea...keep us posted on that.
Tom W Clark	posted 06-18-2010 09:58 AM ET (US) A few things do not add up here. By your description you have a Super Sport Limited 13'. The specified weight of this model is 410 pounds. You have weighed this boat and found it to weigh 570 pounds which is 160 pounds more than normal. 160 pounds is, as David pointed out, the weight of one person and there is no way the addition of one person in a Sport 13 will affect its performance as much as you describe. Furthermore, the depth to which the hull settles without it drain plug is very low. You describe almost filling the splashwell. That does suggests a badly waterlogged hull, but to a much greater extent than a mere 160 pounds. How did you weigh the boat on the race car scale? Bare hull or complete boat (seats, steering, rails, etc.)? As far as getting water out of a waterlogged Whaler hull, you have already discovered that it will not just drain out. Nor will suction be able to pull it out. Been there, tried that. The only way to get water out of the foam core of a Whaler hull is to allow it to evaporate. Raising the temperature and reducing the humidity of where it is stored...plus time, will do that...eventually. The paint booth idea is a good one, but instead of one hour a day for several days, you'll need 24 hours a day for several weeks to make any significant progress on loosing the water in the hull.
whitemtauto	posted 06-18-2010 01:14 PM ET (US) When I weighed it with the 4 racing electronic scales, it was complete minus the motor. It was bottom side up. As far as putting it in our paint booth and "baking it" for 24 hours a day for a period of time, it would cost me more in propane gas than the boat is worth. I have read everything that you all have written and linked to and have found this experience very helpfull. My motor actually runs perfect. I am going to check to see if someone might have switched the prop, but it looks like it is original and has never been off. It doesn't even have a nick in it. By trying to think this all out, I have decided to finish fixing the holes in the bottom that was there and the ones that I drilled and then putting the motor back on and trying it again. I did not see the cracks/holes it had in the bottom last summer. I believe that quite a bit of water could enter the hull, especially while moving. This might have been my problem. And I now agree that the extra 160 lbs was equal to the weight of one person. I will keep you posted as to the results and if by some chance I can find a cure. One side note. If anyone needs to weigh a boat to see what the total weight is, especially these little ones that a few people can lift, these electronic racing scales are very good. You get the total weight, but more importantly, you can see which of the 4 scales has the most weight so if I was ever going to drill and take a piece of the core out, you would know which quadrant to work in. Thanks to everyone for all the help.
Tom W Clark	posted 06-18-2010 01:20 PM ET (US) Check the part number on the prop. A wrong propeller can make a huge difference in the boat's performance. It will not, however, change how it floats.
waterlogged	posted 06-24-2010 09:27 AM ET (US) "whitemtauto" I have a late 60's vintage 13 waterlogged to the gills and she still pops up on plane no problem with 25hp Yamaha, even with 4 people in it. Sounds like the engine is being fickle on that one. Loss of speed at WOT (wide open throttle) is one of most common symptoms in outboards. Good chance the corrosion issue from the dunking is behind it. Trouble shooting balls- either mechanical, fuel or electrical is culprit. Isolate the symptom and have at it! As for keeping the boat, unless the hull is delaminating, save the drying out for winter. There's a reason the good Lord lowers the humidity in winter, so we can work on that stuff when the ponds are frozen. Good luck!
whitemtauto	posted 07-05-2010 09:32 PM ET (US) I fixed the holes in the bottom, painted the bottom, took the boat to out place in Georgetowm, Me and launched it. The boat went quite well, even being a little heavy. The motor ran very well. Now my only problem is with our other whaler that has a 25hp Johnson, we just pull the plug and moor it. We leave it for weeks and it is fine. This SS has a 2003 Mercury 2cylinder, 2 stroke, with power tilt and trim. When I try to moor it with the plug out , it seems to be so heavy in the reat, the back fils up with water more than 1/2 way inside with water. It is more than 1/2 way up the battery. I got nervous and brought it to shore and took the battery out and left it with the plug out and beached close to shore where it should not go under water. Could it be that this motor is too heavy for this SS boat? Everyone's input has been very helpful so far. Thanks
Tohsgib	posted 07-06-2010 11:20 AM ET (US) Anything with a battery and a heavier than 110 engine will fill pretty good without the pkug. Put a bilge pump in it. With my setup it almost gets up to the splashwell and overflows.
whitemtauto	posted 07-06-2010 04:39 PM ET (US) I already have a bilge pump that I can set on automatic. The problem is I might not get back to Maine to use the boat to keep the battery charged soon enough and then would have a sunken boat. I am working on a solar charger that I could leave hooked up. I should have it ready by the next time I go back. I am always looking for sugestions. Thanks.