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Author Topic:   Mercury Classic 40 questions

eedork posted 07-10-2010 09:18 PM ET (US)
Hey everyone -
I finally got my 13' Sport in the water last weekend. Some of you may remember my posts this past winter about this boat. The hull is a '73, but the motor is 1998 Mercury 4-cylinder 2-stroke 'Classic' 40. The motor started very hard when cold last weekend (I almost pulled it back out of the water and brought it back to the marina), but once warm, it ran great. This morning I couldn't get it started and finally gave up before draining the battery.
The motor was completed serviced and tuned back in May by a local marina and deemed to be in excellent operating condition. The guy working on it said it ran like a top.
Anyhow, I have a few questions about this motor that I have been unable to answer via Google. Note that I am not an engine guy .... so these may be newbie questions.
1. What is the proper starting procedure for this motor? I'm beginning to think that the cold starts are more operator error than anything else. This is what I am currently doing:
-prime till bulb is hard
-lift fast idle lever all the way up
-push in key to choke and turn it over
I'm thinking that I may be flooding the engine by lifting the fast idle lever all the way. I'm also not sure if I should push the key in (choke) before turning it over, or while turning it over (or both??). There seem to be differing opinions on this. The reason I think it is flooding is because I pulled a plug this morning after turning it for a while and it was wet.
2. Should I hear a 'click' when I push the key in to the choke position? I'm not sure how these systems work (choke vs. enricher etc.). Anyhow, I'm not hearing any noises now when I push the key in to the choke position. I'm wondering if that may be the problem - the choke isn't working, which would explain the difficult cold starts.
Thanks for any help!
-Matt
number9 posted 07-10-2010 10:45 PM ET (US)
Matt,
Are you keeping the key pushing in while cranking as the manual says?
You may also try advancing the fast idle less than fully or not at all until.
Bill

eedork posted 07-10-2010 11:13 PM ET (US)
Hi Bill,
I normally push the key in and keep it in while cranking. I let it crank for 5 seconds or so, stop, and repeat. All to no avail this morning.
Do you know what the recommended starting procedure is for this engine? Unfortunately I do not have a user manual for it.
Tomorrow I think I'll try starting it with the fast idle lever all the way down. I think I may be flooding it by keeping the fast idle all the way up.
Do you know if I should be hearing any clicks when I push the key in to the choke position?
Thanks for your help!
-Matt
jimh posted 07-10-2010 11:49 PM ET (US)
The "proper starting procedure" for every motor is different. Consult the owner's manual for your particular motor for advice. If you don't have a copy you can get a copy from the links I give in my REFERENCE article on sources of owner's manuals:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ownersManuals.html
eedork posted 07-11-2010 12:22 AM ET (US)
Thanks Jim!
I think I found the correct starting procedure, but will have to confirm tomorrow once I pull the id numbers from the motor.
Seems like I should be putting the fast idle lever at half instead of full. That may have been the problem the entire time.
Any idea if I should hear a clicking noise when pushing the key in?
-Matt
Dave Sutton posted 07-11-2010 11:35 AM ET (US)
The clicking noise when you push in the key is the choke solenoid closing. Remove the engine cowl, push in the key, and watch what happens. A solenoid should trigger, and thru a linkage will close the choke plate, thus restricting the airflow into the carb and enrichening the fuel/air mix as a result of having less air. Make sure it's all working: On mine, the linkage was a bit sticky and even with the "click", nothing was really happening at the carb. It's all simple to look at and see work. If it needs to be "un-stuck", just use some spray solvent. I'd look at this first... hard starting is very often a bad choke system.
Dave
.
eedork posted 07-11-2010 12:15 PM ET (US)
Hey guys -
Thanks for all the help!
I downloaded the manual via Jim's link and used the recommended starting procedure. It didn't start on the first crank but on the third it did. I would have on the second attempt, but it stalled because I did not have the fast idle lever high enough. Once warmed up, it purred and started great with just a quick turn of the key.
Anyhow, I think a lot of the problems were due to my starting procedure. For good measure, I removed the cowling and had my uncle listen for the choke solenoid when I pushed in on the key. He heard it, but it was faint. There's no way I could hear it from the driver's seat.
One last question - the starter pinion is a little sticky sometimes. Should I lubricate it with WD-40 or something else?
Thanks!
-Matt
tmann45 posted 07-11-2010 01:02 PM ET (US)

quote:
One last question - the starter pinion is a little sticky sometimes. Should I lubricate it with WD-40 or something else?

Use something else, WD-40 is a water displacer and a poor lubricant, it dries very sticky/gummy.
protek9543 posted 07-11-2010 01:27 PM ET (US)
The 40hp is a 4 cylinder?
eedork posted 07-11-2010 02:05 PM ET (US)
Hi protek -
Yes, this 40 is a 4 cylinder 2-stroke. I was shocked when I first pulled the cowling off and discovered this myself.
The motor is a 1994 model year, which is a little older than I originally thought (I looked up the s/n this morning). This is what some call a 'Classic 40'. In any event, it is a big motor with a ton of power - almost too much for the 13.
-Matt
jimh posted 07-11-2010 08:28 PM ET (US)
I once owned a 1976 Mercury 50-HP four-cyclinder two-cycle motor--it was a beautiful classic outboard motor. The choke enrichment operated a solenoid that closed off a choke butterfly on the carburetors. I think your 40-HP might be the same basic engine. Mine was 44-cubic-inch displacement, and it was a very smooth running motor.
These older two-cycle carburetor motors need some help to stay running when started cold, but you should get the hang of the fast throttle lever without much trouble.
If your motor is the one I am thinking of, it is a beautiful outboard. They don't make four-cylinder 40-HP motors anymore, so hang on to that one. A true classic Mercury.
Dave Sutton posted 07-11-2010 09:02 PM ET (US)
I'd agree with Jim that these are great old classics.
Hearing a faint "click" and SEEING the choke butterfly close when the key is pushed in are far different things. Have your uncle push in the key and LOOK and SEE what happens. You'll need to remove the air filter to look into the carb. Dollars to donuts the butterfly is not closing due to the linkage being gummed up. At the very least it's a dirt simple thing to check out and either confirm or exclude.
Dave
.
jimh posted 07-12-2010 12:25 AM ET (US)
The only problem I ever had with that old Mercury motor was with the carburetors. The float and needle valve would stick, causing the carburetor to run out of fuel. A gentle tap on the carburetor bowl would unstick the float. I learned that one day in the middle of Grand Traverse Bay, several miles offshore. Two thorough cleanings and carefully polishing of the needle valve cured that problem.
eedork posted 07-12-2010 12:19 PM ET (US)
Thanks guys!
I'll remove the air cleaner this weekend and see what happens when I push the key in. I'll report back.
-Matt
eedork posted 07-17-2010 08:53 PM ET (US)
Update -
There's no air filter on this engine, so nothing to remove. There's also no action on the carb when the key is pushed in. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to see though, as this is not a typical choke - it is a fuel enrichment valve.
Anyhow, I can definitely say that it appears that the fuel enrichment solenoid/valve isn't working properly. I actually had to get towed in today from the opposite end of the lake.
A few hours after getting towed in, I poked around more and realized that there is a manual override on the bottom of the fuel enrichment valve. Pushing this after following the recommended starting procedure resulted in a nice start. Tried the same trick a little later and it fired right up.
Clearly something isn't working. It could be the key switch or perhaps the solenoid itself or the wiring. I don't know, but am planning to experiment more tomorrow. I'll check for voltage at the solenoid first and go from there.
At least now I know how to get it started now and shouldn't get stranded.
-Matt
eedork posted 07-20-2010 03:38 PM ET (US)
Update 2:
The motor starts beautifully as long as I manually trigger the enrichment solenoid before starting.
My new starting procedure is: open gas vent, pump fuel bulb until hard, lift fast idle to about 1/4, turn key to "on" position, push key in for five seconds, lift cowling and push fuel enrichment solenoid manual control, start. It usually starts in under three seconds now.
I've tested the wiring, and I'm getting 14 volts at the solenoid when the key is pushed. I think the wiring is OK - I think the solenoid is either defection or gunked up from 10 years of sitting in the barn. Rather than trying to clean the original, I just purchased a new one online. I'll just swap it in for the old one and see what happens. It should only take an hour (guessing) to install the new solenoid - just two hoses and two wires. Getting at the clamp that holds it will be the only hard part.
I probably won't get to it until next weekend, but I'll post an update.
-Matt
eedork posted 07-26-2010 06:57 PM ET (US)
So it wasn't the enrichment solenoid ... both the original and replacement solenoids work well when I connect them straight to the battery.
After further testing, I believe it is now the key switch. Measuring straight from the harness, the "choke" switch shows high resistance when pushed in (it should show a short). The end result is that I *sometimes* get 13 Volts at the solenoid, but more often than not I only get 7 Volts. 7 Volts I'm guessing is not enough to engage the solenoid which explains the problem I'm having.
I took the remote control apart and it looks like a simple job to swap out the switch. So I might do that next. I noticed however that there is a small relay in the control as well - I'm not sure what this is for ... it could be part of the enrichment circuit. I didn't trace it out, but I will next time I have the control apart. It could very well be bad contacts on the relay that explain the high resistance.
What's interesting is that an entire new remote control unit is actually not that expensive - just over $200. I may just go that route.
-Matt

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Author	Topic: Mercury Classic 40 questions
eedork	posted 07-10-2010 09:18 PM ET (US) Hey everyone - I finally got my 13' Sport in the water last weekend. Some of you may remember my posts this past winter about this boat. The hull is a '73, but the motor is 1998 Mercury 4-cylinder 2-stroke 'Classic' 40. The motor started very hard when cold last weekend (I almost pulled it back out of the water and brought it back to the marina), but once warm, it ran great. This morning I couldn't get it started and finally gave up before draining the battery. The motor was completed serviced and tuned back in May by a local marina and deemed to be in excellent operating condition. The guy working on it said it ran like a top. Anyhow, I have a few questions about this motor that I have been unable to answer via Google. Note that I am not an engine guy .... so these may be newbie questions. 1. What is the proper starting procedure for this motor? I'm beginning to think that the cold starts are more operator error than anything else. This is what I am currently doing: -prime till bulb is hard -lift fast idle lever all the way up -push in key to choke and turn it over I'm thinking that I may be flooding the engine by lifting the fast idle lever all the way. I'm also not sure if I should push the key in (choke) before turning it over, or while turning it over (or both??). There seem to be differing opinions on this. The reason I think it is flooding is because I pulled a plug this morning after turning it for a while and it was wet. 2. Should I hear a 'click' when I push the key in to the choke position? I'm not sure how these systems work (choke vs. enricher etc.). Anyhow, I'm not hearing any noises now when I push the key in to the choke position. I'm wondering if that may be the problem - the choke isn't working, which would explain the difficult cold starts. Thanks for any help! -Matt
number9	posted 07-10-2010 10:45 PM ET (US) Matt, Are you keeping the key pushing in while cranking as the manual says? You may also try advancing the fast idle less than fully or not at all until. Bill
eedork	posted 07-10-2010 11:13 PM ET (US) Hi Bill, I normally push the key in and keep it in while cranking. I let it crank for 5 seconds or so, stop, and repeat. All to no avail this morning. Do you know what the recommended starting procedure is for this engine? Unfortunately I do not have a user manual for it. Tomorrow I think I'll try starting it with the fast idle lever all the way down. I think I may be flooding it by keeping the fast idle all the way up. Do you know if I should be hearing any clicks when I push the key in to the choke position? Thanks for your help! -Matt
jimh	posted 07-10-2010 11:49 PM ET (US) The "proper starting procedure" for every motor is different. Consult the owner's manual for your particular motor for advice. If you don't have a copy you can get a copy from the links I give in my REFERENCE article on sources of owner's manuals: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ownersManuals.html
eedork	posted 07-11-2010 12:22 AM ET (US) Thanks Jim! I think I found the correct starting procedure, but will have to confirm tomorrow once I pull the id numbers from the motor. Seems like I should be putting the fast idle lever at half instead of full. That may have been the problem the entire time. Any idea if I should hear a clicking noise when pushing the key in? -Matt
Dave Sutton	posted 07-11-2010 11:35 AM ET (US) The clicking noise when you push in the key is the choke solenoid closing. Remove the engine cowl, push in the key, and watch what happens. A solenoid should trigger, and thru a linkage will close the choke plate, thus restricting the airflow into the carb and enrichening the fuel/air mix as a result of having less air. Make sure it's all working: On mine, the linkage was a bit sticky and even with the "click", nothing was really happening at the carb. It's all simple to look at and see work. If it needs to be "un-stuck", just use some spray solvent. I'd look at this first... hard starting is very often a bad choke system. Dave .
eedork	posted 07-11-2010 12:15 PM ET (US) Hey guys - Thanks for all the help! I downloaded the manual via Jim's link and used the recommended starting procedure. It didn't start on the first crank but on the third it did. I would have on the second attempt, but it stalled because I did not have the fast idle lever high enough. Once warmed up, it purred and started great with just a quick turn of the key. Anyhow, I think a lot of the problems were due to my starting procedure. For good measure, I removed the cowling and had my uncle listen for the choke solenoid when I pushed in on the key. He heard it, but it was faint. There's no way I could hear it from the driver's seat. One last question - the starter pinion is a little sticky sometimes. Should I lubricate it with WD-40 or something else? Thanks! -Matt
tmann45	posted 07-11-2010 01:02 PM ET (US) quote: One last question - the starter pinion is a little sticky sometimes. Should I lubricate it with WD-40 or something else? Use something else, WD-40 is a water displacer and a poor lubricant, it dries very sticky/gummy.
protek9543	posted 07-11-2010 01:27 PM ET (US) The 40hp is a 4 cylinder?
eedork	posted 07-11-2010 02:05 PM ET (US) Hi protek - Yes, this 40 is a 4 cylinder 2-stroke. I was shocked when I first pulled the cowling off and discovered this myself. The motor is a 1994 model year, which is a little older than I originally thought (I looked up the s/n this morning). This is what some call a 'Classic 40'. In any event, it is a big motor with a ton of power - almost too much for the 13. -Matt
jimh	posted 07-11-2010 08:28 PM ET (US) I once owned a 1976 Mercury 50-HP four-cyclinder two-cycle motor--it was a beautiful classic outboard motor. The choke enrichment operated a solenoid that closed off a choke butterfly on the carburetors. I think your 40-HP might be the same basic engine. Mine was 44-cubic-inch displacement, and it was a very smooth running motor. These older two-cycle carburetor motors need some help to stay running when started cold, but you should get the hang of the fast throttle lever without much trouble. If your motor is the one I am thinking of, it is a beautiful outboard. They don't make four-cylinder 40-HP motors anymore, so hang on to that one. A true classic Mercury.
Dave Sutton	posted 07-11-2010 09:02 PM ET (US) I'd agree with Jim that these are great old classics. Hearing a faint "click" and SEEING the choke butterfly close when the key is pushed in are far different things. Have your uncle push in the key and LOOK and SEE what happens. You'll need to remove the air filter to look into the carb. Dollars to donuts the butterfly is not closing due to the linkage being gummed up. At the very least it's a dirt simple thing to check out and either confirm or exclude. Dave .
jimh	posted 07-12-2010 12:25 AM ET (US) The only problem I ever had with that old Mercury motor was with the carburetors. The float and needle valve would stick, causing the carburetor to run out of fuel. A gentle tap on the carburetor bowl would unstick the float. I learned that one day in the middle of Grand Traverse Bay, several miles offshore. Two thorough cleanings and carefully polishing of the needle valve cured that problem.
eedork	posted 07-12-2010 12:19 PM ET (US) Thanks guys! I'll remove the air cleaner this weekend and see what happens when I push the key in. I'll report back. -Matt
eedork	posted 07-17-2010 08:53 PM ET (US) Update - There's no air filter on this engine, so nothing to remove. There's also no action on the carb when the key is pushed in. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to see though, as this is not a typical choke - it is a fuel enrichment valve. Anyhow, I can definitely say that it appears that the fuel enrichment solenoid/valve isn't working properly. I actually had to get towed in today from the opposite end of the lake. A few hours after getting towed in, I poked around more and realized that there is a manual override on the bottom of the fuel enrichment valve. Pushing this after following the recommended starting procedure resulted in a nice start. Tried the same trick a little later and it fired right up. Clearly something isn't working. It could be the key switch or perhaps the solenoid itself or the wiring. I don't know, but am planning to experiment more tomorrow. I'll check for voltage at the solenoid first and go from there. At least now I know how to get it started now and shouldn't get stranded. -Matt
eedork	posted 07-20-2010 03:38 PM ET (US) Update 2: The motor starts beautifully as long as I manually trigger the enrichment solenoid before starting. My new starting procedure is: open gas vent, pump fuel bulb until hard, lift fast idle to about 1/4, turn key to "on" position, push key in for five seconds, lift cowling and push fuel enrichment solenoid manual control, start. It usually starts in under three seconds now. I've tested the wiring, and I'm getting 14 volts at the solenoid when the key is pushed. I think the wiring is OK - I think the solenoid is either defection or gunked up from 10 years of sitting in the barn. Rather than trying to clean the original, I just purchased a new one online. I'll just swap it in for the old one and see what happens. It should only take an hour (guessing) to install the new solenoid - just two hoses and two wires. Getting at the clamp that holds it will be the only hard part. I probably won't get to it until next weekend, but I'll post an update. -Matt
eedork	posted 07-26-2010 06:57 PM ET (US) So it wasn't the enrichment solenoid ... both the original and replacement solenoids work well when I connect them straight to the battery. After further testing, I believe it is now the key switch. Measuring straight from the harness, the "choke" switch shows high resistance when pushed in (it should show a short). The end result is that I sometimes get 13 Volts at the solenoid, but more often than not I only get 7 Volts. 7 Volts I'm guessing is not enough to engage the solenoid which explains the problem I'm having. I took the remote control apart and it looks like a simple job to swap out the switch. So I might do that next. I noticed however that there is a small relay in the control as well - I'm not sure what this is for ... it could be part of the enrichment circuit. I didn't trace it out, but I will next time I have the control apart. It could very well be bad contacts on the relay that explain the high resistance. What's interesting is that an entire new remote control unit is actually not that expensive - just over $200. I may just go that route. -Matt