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Author Topic:   Rub Rail Repair

Lame Duck posted 08-16-2010 05:22 PM ET (US)
Hi, Group. I’m getting ready to replace my rub rail, and I need your advice. The railing on my ’89 Montauk (which I purchased new) was originally installed with pop rivets, and I thought I would use stainless steel fastners instead. However, after looking at the wood diagram supplied with the owners pouch I see there is no wood to screw into. Is this a problem or will the screws bite OK anyway?
Thanks in advance.
(And, yes, I did read the fine reference article on rub rails.)
Al Phillips
Blackduck posted 08-16-2010 05:26 PM ET (US)
Stick with aluminum pop rivets.
contender posted 08-16-2010 05:38 PM ET (US)
Some people swear by rivets and some use stainless screws. Rivets in theory are push in a hole and then expanded, should not pull out, should not get loose. But the trouble with rivets is you can not tighten them once used or if they come loose. Stainless screws drill a small pilot hole and then screw in the screw, you can purchase larger head screws for better holding, some people say they back out, but you can always tighten them back. I just redid my 17 and use stainless screws with 5200 in each hole for back up. I put a rub rail on my whaler in 1985 with stainless screws and have not had any problems, I just redid my whaler (25 years later) and put a new rub rail on the same way with stainless screws. I placed the screws every 4 inches and did it myself. I used (Erwin)clamps to hold the rub rail in place. The hardest part was pushing in the center part(insert). I used a larger after market rub rail (Taco) with an insert. To each his own....good luck
dowdhh posted 08-16-2010 07:49 PM ET (US)
I replaced the rub rail on my Whaler last spring. (purchased from my local Whaler dealer) I went with SS screws, I dipped each one in epoxy to seal the hole and prevent them from loosening. The best piece of advice I can give you is get a heat gun to bend the receiver track. The instructions say to lay the track in the sun, that method doesn't work during a New England spring. The Erwin clamps that Contender mentions are also a must have tool. You will need someone to help you, allow plenty of time for the job, go slow and your rub rail should look great! Good luck.
Lame Duck posted 08-17-2010 12:42 PM ET (US)
Thanks, Group. SS screws will be used for this installation. I appreciate your counsel.
Al
Tim OBrien posted 08-17-2010 09:09 PM ET (US)
I just went through fighting my new rub rail installation. it was quite a pain by myself. Forget the heat gun! Get yourself some of the adjustable woodworking clamps to help bend the IMPOSSIBLE receiver track. I still don't understand why it is so rigid. If you have a helper it will make a huge difference, my 10 year old handing me screws would have made a huge difference. I used stainless screws and they are holding great
contender posted 08-17-2010 10:21 PM ET (US)
Duck: Look at this company "Fastnel" for your screws, They have a lot of choices and make sure you purchase stainless. They also have larger head screws for this purpose.
dscew posted 08-17-2010 10:41 PM ET (US)
So, what size stainless screw is need to fasten a new rub rail to a Boston Whaler boat?
tyno22 posted 08-18-2010 12:43 AM ET (US)
I just put a rub rail receiver on my 19 Outrage a few weeks back. I used #10 SS screws that I bought from a Fastenal store. This way you can by them in bulk which is cheaper. I contacted Whaler before I did this project and I was told that Whaler uses SS screws that have an epoxy on them for better sealent or something. The old receiver I took off had pop rivets in it. Many were loose...many were still holding tight. 2 of us did the work. One person would hold the receiver while the other would later drill the screw in. I originally put hex screws in (they work great going into the fiberglass with the proper bit because they don't slip on the drill head), but after I installed the rub rail, I noticed small bumps around the entire length of the rub rail (was from the hex head of the scrw). Even thought there is a small channel for the screw to fit into in the rubrail, the hex head was sticking out far enough to displace some of the rub rail. I then replaced them ALL with flat head SS screws. I'm glad I did it early on, or else the bumps might be there if the hex heads were in longer. Looks nice now with no raised bumps.
tyno22 posted 08-18-2010 12:45 AM ET (US)
I was told that you can get the SS epoxy screws from a Whaler Dealer. I needed the screws now, and figured what I had would work. Pop rivets were in before in this 1973 boat, so am sure the ones I put in now will hold up; minus the epoxy.
dowdhh posted 08-18-2010 08:36 PM ET (US)
Mr. Obrien If you used the heat gun, and your wood clamps that very rigid receiver track would have bent right into place. Again, its a must have tool, so is another set of hands.

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Author	Topic: Rub Rail Repair
Lame Duck	posted 08-16-2010 05:22 PM ET (US) Hi, Group. I’m getting ready to replace my rub rail, and I need your advice. The railing on my ’89 Montauk (which I purchased new) was originally installed with pop rivets, and I thought I would use stainless steel fastners instead. However, after looking at the wood diagram supplied with the owners pouch I see there is no wood to screw into. Is this a problem or will the screws bite OK anyway? Thanks in advance. (And, yes, I did read the fine reference article on rub rails.) Al Phillips
Blackduck	posted 08-16-2010 05:26 PM ET (US) Stick with aluminum pop rivets.
contender	posted 08-16-2010 05:38 PM ET (US) Some people swear by rivets and some use stainless screws. Rivets in theory are push in a hole and then expanded, should not pull out, should not get loose. But the trouble with rivets is you can not tighten them once used or if they come loose. Stainless screws drill a small pilot hole and then screw in the screw, you can purchase larger head screws for better holding, some people say they back out, but you can always tighten them back. I just redid my 17 and use stainless screws with 5200 in each hole for back up. I put a rub rail on my whaler in 1985 with stainless screws and have not had any problems, I just redid my whaler (25 years later) and put a new rub rail on the same way with stainless screws. I placed the screws every 4 inches and did it myself. I used (Erwin)clamps to hold the rub rail in place. The hardest part was pushing in the center part(insert). I used a larger after market rub rail (Taco) with an insert. To each his own....good luck
dowdhh	posted 08-16-2010 07:49 PM ET (US) I replaced the rub rail on my Whaler last spring. (purchased from my local Whaler dealer) I went with SS screws, I dipped each one in epoxy to seal the hole and prevent them from loosening. The best piece of advice I can give you is get a heat gun to bend the receiver track. The instructions say to lay the track in the sun, that method doesn't work during a New England spring. The Erwin clamps that Contender mentions are also a must have tool. You will need someone to help you, allow plenty of time for the job, go slow and your rub rail should look great! Good luck.
Lame Duck	posted 08-17-2010 12:42 PM ET (US) Thanks, Group. SS screws will be used for this installation. I appreciate your counsel. Al
Tim OBrien	posted 08-17-2010 09:09 PM ET (US) I just went through fighting my new rub rail installation. it was quite a pain by myself. Forget the heat gun! Get yourself some of the adjustable woodworking clamps to help bend the IMPOSSIBLE receiver track. I still don't understand why it is so rigid. If you have a helper it will make a huge difference, my 10 year old handing me screws would have made a huge difference. I used stainless screws and they are holding great
contender	posted 08-17-2010 10:21 PM ET (US) Duck: Look at this company "Fastnel" for your screws, They have a lot of choices and make sure you purchase stainless. They also have larger head screws for this purpose.
dscew	posted 08-17-2010 10:41 PM ET (US) So, what size stainless screw is need to fasten a new rub rail to a Boston Whaler boat?
tyno22	posted 08-18-2010 12:43 AM ET (US) I just put a rub rail receiver on my 19 Outrage a few weeks back. I used #10 SS screws that I bought from a Fastenal store. This way you can by them in bulk which is cheaper. I contacted Whaler before I did this project and I was told that Whaler uses SS screws that have an epoxy on them for better sealent or something. The old receiver I took off had pop rivets in it. Many were loose...many were still holding tight. 2 of us did the work. One person would hold the receiver while the other would later drill the screw in. I originally put hex screws in (they work great going into the fiberglass with the proper bit because they don't slip on the drill head), but after I installed the rub rail, I noticed small bumps around the entire length of the rub rail (was from the hex head of the scrw). Even thought there is a small channel for the screw to fit into in the rubrail, the hex head was sticking out far enough to displace some of the rub rail. I then replaced them ALL with flat head SS screws. I'm glad I did it early on, or else the bumps might be there if the hex heads were in longer. Looks nice now with no raised bumps.
tyno22	posted 08-18-2010 12:45 AM ET (US) I was told that you can get the SS epoxy screws from a Whaler Dealer. I needed the screws now, and figured what I had would work. Pop rivets were in before in this 1973 boat, so am sure the ones I put in now will hold up; minus the epoxy.
dowdhh	posted 08-18-2010 08:36 PM ET (US) Mr. Obrien If you used the heat gun, and your wood clamps that very rigid receiver track would have bent right into place. Again, its a must have tool, so is another set of hands.