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Author Topic:   Replacing Transom Tube

Babywhaler posted 08-29-2010 12:28 PM ET (US)
I have a 1988 15' Sport CC. The transom tube corroded and
failed and I am relacing it. I read the long thread on this subject, but it said to use .032" wall brass tube.
I measured the tube that came out of my boat and it is more like .065" wall thickness, 1" OD, and 15" long.
Mcmaster-Carr sells a .065" wall thickness brass tube,
but I wonder if I can form a lip on this thicker wall.
I plan to anneal it as recommended. I really don't want to use that thin wall .032 as I don't think it will last as long before corroding. Any thoughts? Great forum!

tjxtreme posted 08-29-2010 04:39 PM ET (US)
Are you sure that the corrosion isn't making it look like it is thicker than it should be?
If your original lasted 22 years, doing it again in another 22 years would be a pretty good deal.... or even another 11.
Babywhaler posted 08-31-2010 09:08 AM ET (US)
No, its .065" wall, only one end was corroded. (end in the water at back). Also this transom drain tube is 15.1" long, as the transom under the splashwell is thick. I've decided to go with the .032" wall tube as it is also less expenssive ($16) and should be easier to work with. I was wondering why I even need to put a flare on the ends as I will seal it in place with 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive so probably don't need a flare lip except for aesthetics.
Thx for your comments, fell free to add any more...
Babywhaler posted 02-10-2011 10:56 AM ET (US)
Thought I'd follow up and let you know the .032" wall
worked out OK. However, I never could get a good lip on the tube even tho I did anneal it first. So I just installed it without a full 180 degree lip and it is OK, but doesn't look as good as one with a full lip. I used the 3M marine Adhesive/Sealant and it cured nicely. So now I'm back in businees with my Whaler...
cohasett73 posted 02-11-2011 08:38 AM ET (US)
Babywhaler,
There is only one reason for arolled flare on the tubing. To compress the o-ring against the hull to assure a good seal.
Tom from Rubicon,WI
Babywhaler posted 04-05-2011 08:58 PM ET (US)
OK thanks for the reponses. I ended up installing a scupper valve/cover on the transom where the tube comes out, so it looks nice and now have a flapper valve to keep water out. I also have the other problems of older Whalers, like deck gelcoat crazing, light/electrical problems, hard to find parts, etc. But its a great boat that tops out at 41 MPH with a 70 HP Merc and can handle the waves on our Oklahoma lakes when the wind is gusting out of the South.

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Author	Topic: Replacing Transom Tube
Babywhaler	posted 08-29-2010 12:28 PM ET (US) I have a 1988 15' Sport CC. The transom tube corroded and failed and I am relacing it. I read the long thread on this subject, but it said to use .032" wall brass tube. I measured the tube that came out of my boat and it is more like .065" wall thickness, 1" OD, and 15" long. Mcmaster-Carr sells a .065" wall thickness brass tube, but I wonder if I can form a lip on this thicker wall. I plan to anneal it as recommended. I really don't want to use that thin wall .032 as I don't think it will last as long before corroding. Any thoughts? Great forum!
tjxtreme	posted 08-29-2010 04:39 PM ET (US) Are you sure that the corrosion isn't making it look like it is thicker than it should be? If your original lasted 22 years, doing it again in another 22 years would be a pretty good deal.... or even another 11.
Babywhaler	posted 08-31-2010 09:08 AM ET (US) No, its .065" wall, only one end was corroded. (end in the water at back). Also this transom drain tube is 15.1" long, as the transom under the splashwell is thick. I've decided to go with the .032" wall tube as it is also less expenssive ($16) and should be easier to work with. I was wondering why I even need to put a flare on the ends as I will seal it in place with 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive so probably don't need a flare lip except for aesthetics. Thx for your comments, fell free to add any more...
Babywhaler	posted 02-10-2011 10:56 AM ET (US) Thought I'd follow up and let you know the .032" wall worked out OK. However, I never could get a good lip on the tube even tho I did anneal it first. So I just installed it without a full 180 degree lip and it is OK, but doesn't look as good as one with a full lip. I used the 3M marine Adhesive/Sealant and it cured nicely. So now I'm back in businees with my Whaler...
cohasett73	posted 02-11-2011 08:38 AM ET (US) Babywhaler, There is only one reason for arolled flare on the tubing. To compress the o-ring against the hull to assure a good seal. Tom from Rubicon,WI
Babywhaler	posted 04-05-2011 08:58 PM ET (US) OK thanks for the reponses. I ended up installing a scupper valve/cover on the transom where the tube comes out, so it looks nice and now have a flapper valve to keep water out. I also have the other problems of older Whalers, like deck gelcoat crazing, light/electrical problems, hard to find parts, etc. But its a great boat that tops out at 41 MPH with a 70 HP Merc and can handle the waves on our Oklahoma lakes when the wind is gusting out of the South.