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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods MONTAUK 17 Hull Repair
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Author | Topic: MONTAUK 17 Hull Repair |
bsully50 |
posted 09-07-2010 04:35 PM ET (US)
This past weekend we apparently had a slice (origin unknown) in the hull of our [1976 Boston Whaler MONTAUK], and, while underway, the slice became a 18-inch by 18-inch hole on the bottom of the starboard side by the transom and took a little bit of glass off the transom, as well.Some of the foam left the hull with the layer of glass. The good news: whalers do still float when the hull is seriously compromised and the foam exposed! Even 34-year-old whalers. My plan [is to] drain the intruding water with the bow up and the boat leaning to the starboard side. When [the exposed portion of the interior of the hull] is dry, [I will] remove the leaning post, console, motor, gas tank, and railings, and flip [the hull] over. [I will] remove any damaged or loose foam and cut the glass back four to five inches to a solid surface, then use two-part foam to fill in the cavity. When [the foam] dries, [I will] shape it to match the port side lines. \[I will] glass over this with the heavy-duty matting and epoxy. Am I on the right track with my plans? I need to do this sooner rather than later, as the foam needs 75 to 80-degrees and I live in Connecticut; summer is ending soon. Thank you for your input. Sully |
Buckda |
posted 09-07-2010 05:02 PM ET (US)
18 inches long by 18 inches wide by how many inches deep? If less than three inches deep, I'd just build the area up with glass and resin - there's no way you'll recreate the unibond anyway and this will be much easier. If deeper than three inches, you might be getting into weight problems, but I'd still consider just filling the cavity with chopped glass and then gelcoating over it. |
bsully50 |
posted 09-07-2010 05:29 PM ET (US)
Thanks Buckda-I will take a measurement-it may only be 1 to two inches of foam. I will check-thanks again |
crabby |
posted 09-07-2010 06:15 PM ET (US)
Clean it up, then fill with two part foam. Shape the foam, then glass and resin (my preference would be epoxy, such as WEST, rather than polyester resin) the rest. While you have the boat flipped, clean off the rest of the bottom and barrier coat it. Take pictures and post them. You may also want to look at some of the other classic boat sites (classicmako, classicseacraft, etc.) for some unbelievable restoration stories and advice. |
Jerry Townsend |
posted 09-07-2010 06:24 PM ET (US)
Buckda - if the damage is inches deep - that is a lot of glass. bsully50 - my suggestions - if the damage is less than 1/2 inch deep - just use glass - but use the woven glass fabric, as it is much stronger than the matting. If the damage is deep - clean up the damage as possible, then "wet" the "parent" foam with resin and use the urethane foam, contour the foam to where you have 3/8 to 1/2 inch to your desired hull contour, take a router and "machine" a 1/2 - 3/8 inch wide lengthwise trough/channel in the foam about every 4 - 5 inches apart and then start the glass work. These channel surfaces will be glassed as the repair is being built up and provides additional strength to the repair by "constructing" a "box" The resin doesn't make much difference , though epoxy is strnger - both epoxy and polyester are compatible with urethane foam. With /glass - cleaniness and thorough wetting of the fabric is all important. There are severeal articles in the reference section regarding repairs. ---- Jerry/Idaho |
bsully50 |
posted 09-07-2010 07:59 PM ET (US)
Thanks all for the input and advice. [Asks if this website will host pictures--it does not.--jimh] Thank you.BSully |
jimh |
posted 09-07-2010 09:06 PM ET (US)
To make repairs to the Unibond hull of a Boston Whaler boat, I recommend you read and follow the procedures given in the REFERENCE section, where there are two excellent articles on this topic. Repairing Hull Damage the Whaler Way INSTRUCTIONS -- HULL PATCH KITS |
bsully50 |
posted 09-08-2010 06:10 AM ET (US)
Thank you for the articles-they are an excellent source of information and extremely detailed.BSully |
Taylor |
posted 09-08-2010 06:01 PM ET (US)
So I took a few minutes to re-read the hull repair article and reflect. The license tab in the photo reads 2003 and my daughter looks to be about 6. Now she's 13 and the license tab reads 2010. I was buffing out my hull over the weekend, for the first time since I bought the boat in 2001. The repair still looks pretty much the same as it did back then. I can see a slight difference in gelcoat texture if I get right down next to it and there's still that same wow in the chine that bothered me after we initially did the repair. I think the critical thing is to take it one step at a time, just like you are planning, Sully, and not get intimidated by the extent of the damage. |
modenacart |
posted 09-08-2010 11:13 PM ET (US)
If you plan on re-applying gel coat, I would use polyester resin. The instructions on some gel coats state that you should not use their product over epoxy. |
jimh |
posted 09-09-2010 07:49 AM ET (US)
Epoxy is wonderful for repairs. I much prefer it to polyester resins. It is an old wife's tale that you cannot apply polyester resin over epoxy. If the surface preparation is done properly there will be no problems. I have done it and it works fine. |
bsully50 |
posted 09-09-2010 12:43 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the information and support.I will give it a shot, once those drops of water stop coming out of the damaged area.I ordered the foam and resin from Aeromarine-very reasonable. My sons and I still have the Mako in the water so we will not be without a boat for the fall stripers. I will provide updates as I proceed with the whaler repairs. Thank you for the input. B Sully |
modenacart |
posted 09-10-2010 05:06 PM ET (US)
Maybe it is an old wives tale, but if a person uses a product outside of the OEM's instructions, don't expect any help from that OEM if there is a problem. |
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