Proper Anti-Fouling Paint For Top Coating Existing Paint

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Author Topic:   Proper Anti-Fouling Paint For Top Coating Existing Paint

zx12r posted 11-20-2010 09:30 AM ET (US)
My Montauk 17 has had its [initial] paint [here I assume we are discussing anti-fouling bottom paint--jimh] for two seasons, and, come springtime, it will need a fresh coat. The gentleman who initially scuffed and painted [the MONTAUK] did a great job, and [the anti-fouling paint] has lasted two seasons. [The MONTAUK has] been slipped all season long--summer months--for two years. [The gentleman who initally scuffed and painted the MONTAUK] had stated that when the time to paint [arrived], however, a different paint than was originally used for the first coat [would be required], as this was initially a gel coated bottom. Which paint should [I] use? [T]he [Boston Whaler MONTAUK 17] sits moored in a canal on the South shore of Long Island, remains until November, and then trailered [until] the following spring. Then it sits in the water again.
jimh posted 11-20-2010 10:23 AM ET (US)
Since you seem to be confident in accepting advice from the unnamed gentleman who told you that a different type of paint will be required for any top coats over the existing paint, may I suggest you seek his advice on which paint he recommends?
It might be helpful if you discovered what type or brand of anti-fouling paint has been applied by the gentleman. Once you have that information you could solicit advice from others regarding what a suitable top coating paint might be.
zx12r posted 11-21-2010 08:58 PM ET (US)
[I] did [seek information from the gentleman who applied the initial anti-fouling paint to the bottom of the MONTAUK as to his recommendation for the preferred paint to use for follow-on top coats], and he claims that Petit brand should be used. [I] guess they make [anti-fouling paint that is] water based and oil based. [The author says he is] not sure which to use. [I] will wait to hear from some others.
tom976 posted 11-21-2010 09:49 PM ET (US)
There are really a few different mindsets on the stuff. You may have an epoxy based paint or an ablative paint. Epoxy can last a while but loses its effectiveness generally after a season. The other type is ablative. This stuff wears away as it used in the water, so everytime you drive it's like a new coat. It will wear away over time.
Nice part about [ablative anti-fouling paint] that if done right with a diffent color underlying paint you would know when it's time to paint again. Let's say you use black paint. The first coat would have been maybe red then two coats of black. You would know when the black coat wears out when the red is showing.
Epoxy is generally cheaper but eventually it'll need to be blasted off as the epoxy will build up over the years. No fun with that.
One thing to note is that some ablative paints are not trailerable. They loose the effectiveness when on a trailer for awhile. Others are okay with it.
tedious posted 11-22-2010 08:11 AM ET (US)
ZX, you need to find out what paint was used on your boat before. It's not a matter of brand, it's a matter of type of paint and compatibility with what's on there. All of the paint company websites have information on this. Interlux is particularly good, and Pettit is OK too. Just do a search and you'll be inundated with information.
Tim
Newtauk1 posted 11-22-2010 09:41 AM ET (US)
Did he use the wrong paint the first time?
sdwhaler17 posted 11-22-2010 02:07 PM ET (US)
Driscoll Boat Works in San Diego is painting my Newport. The ablative bottom paint I had was peeling and flaking off because the gelcoat was not roughed prior to painting years ago. I am having it all removed and done properly, with an Epoxy. You can later paint ablative style paint over an epoxy but not the other way around.
Driscoll advised that this is the way to go because at some point the regulations may change and traditional ablative paints may not be usable in CA.
Tohsgib posted 11-22-2010 02:34 PM ET (US)
That makes sense to me. If [the first coat is an albative paint], it is hard for any other paint to adhere to it. If it rubs off on your finger easily it is albative. If it was painted in epoxy and it still looks good, I would do an albative over it to limit your sanding and prep. On my painted boats I went three seasons on epoxy and it worked fine, hence I [had] little buildup. I also use a foam brush as it is a much thinner coat and smoother than a roller.
zx12r posted 12-02-2010 11:00 AM ET (US)
[The author says he is still] not sure what was used on the initial cote. [I] will just [use a follow up coating of an] ablative [anti-fouling paint] like recommended. Even if the first [coat were] epoxy--which I doubt--[an ablative anti-fouling paint] will work. [The author says he is] thinking about the different color [technique]. [The] first [coat] was black so [I] don't know how hard or how many [coats] it will need to turn her blue, the color [I am] thinking about using. [T]hanks [guys].

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Author	Topic: Proper Anti-Fouling Paint For Top Coating Existing Paint
zx12r	posted 11-20-2010 09:30 AM ET (US) My Montauk 17 has had its [initial] paint [here I assume we are discussing anti-fouling bottom paint--jimh] for two seasons, and, come springtime, it will need a fresh coat. The gentleman who initially scuffed and painted [the MONTAUK] did a great job, and [the anti-fouling paint] has lasted two seasons. [The MONTAUK has] been slipped all season long--summer months--for two years. [The gentleman who initally scuffed and painted the MONTAUK] had stated that when the time to paint [arrived], however, a different paint than was originally used for the first coat [would be required], as this was initially a gel coated bottom. Which paint should [I] use? [T]he [Boston Whaler MONTAUK 17] sits moored in a canal on the South shore of Long Island, remains until November, and then trailered [until] the following spring. Then it sits in the water again.
jimh	posted 11-20-2010 10:23 AM ET (US) Since you seem to be confident in accepting advice from the unnamed gentleman who told you that a different type of paint will be required for any top coats over the existing paint, may I suggest you seek his advice on which paint he recommends? It might be helpful if you discovered what type or brand of anti-fouling paint has been applied by the gentleman. Once you have that information you could solicit advice from others regarding what a suitable top coating paint might be.
zx12r	posted 11-21-2010 08:58 PM ET (US) [I] did [seek information from the gentleman who applied the initial anti-fouling paint to the bottom of the MONTAUK as to his recommendation for the preferred paint to use for follow-on top coats], and he claims that Petit brand should be used. [I] guess they make [anti-fouling paint that is] water based and oil based. [The author says he is] not sure which to use. [I] will wait to hear from some others.
tom976	posted 11-21-2010 09:49 PM ET (US) There are really a few different mindsets on the stuff. You may have an epoxy based paint or an ablative paint. Epoxy can last a while but loses its effectiveness generally after a season. The other type is ablative. This stuff wears away as it used in the water, so everytime you drive it's like a new coat. It will wear away over time. Nice part about [ablative anti-fouling paint] that if done right with a diffent color underlying paint you would know when it's time to paint again. Let's say you use black paint. The first coat would have been maybe red then two coats of black. You would know when the black coat wears out when the red is showing. Epoxy is generally cheaper but eventually it'll need to be blasted off as the epoxy will build up over the years. No fun with that. One thing to note is that some ablative paints are not trailerable. They loose the effectiveness when on a trailer for awhile. Others are okay with it.
tedious	posted 11-22-2010 08:11 AM ET (US) ZX, you need to find out what paint was used on your boat before. It's not a matter of brand, it's a matter of type of paint and compatibility with what's on there. All of the paint company websites have information on this. Interlux is particularly good, and Pettit is OK too. Just do a search and you'll be inundated with information. Tim
Newtauk1	posted 11-22-2010 09:41 AM ET (US) Did he use the wrong paint the first time?
sdwhaler17	posted 11-22-2010 02:07 PM ET (US) Driscoll Boat Works in San Diego is painting my Newport. The ablative bottom paint I had was peeling and flaking off because the gelcoat was not roughed prior to painting years ago. I am having it all removed and done properly, with an Epoxy. You can later paint ablative style paint over an epoxy but not the other way around. Driscoll advised that this is the way to go because at some point the regulations may change and traditional ablative paints may not be usable in CA.
Tohsgib	posted 11-22-2010 02:34 PM ET (US) That makes sense to me. If [the first coat is an albative paint], it is hard for any other paint to adhere to it. If it rubs off on your finger easily it is albative. If it was painted in epoxy and it still looks good, I would do an albative over it to limit your sanding and prep. On my painted boats I went three seasons on epoxy and it worked fine, hence I [had] little buildup. I also use a foam brush as it is a much thinner coat and smoother than a roller.
zx12r	posted 12-02-2010 11:00 AM ET (US) [The author says he is still] not sure what was used on the initial cote. [I] will just [use a follow up coating of an] ablative [anti-fouling paint] like recommended. Even if the first [coat were] epoxy--which I doubt--[an ablative anti-fouling paint] will work. [The author says he is] thinking about the different color [technique]. [The] first [coat] was black so [I] don't know how hard or how many [coats] it will need to turn her blue, the color [I am] thinking about using. [T]hanks [guys].