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Author Topic:   1973 Outrage 19

Stokes889 posted 03-14-2011 09:48 PM ET (US)
[Three separate threads whose topic was the same have been consolidated into this single thread. Please do not begin a new thread for each new comment to be made about this boat restoration project.--jimh]
I have the boat [which was latered determined to be a c.1973 Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 19] taken completely apart and now am ready for the restoration phase. Please see these pictures: http://s1109.photobucket.com/home/Stokes889/index. You'll see all that I've taken apart, except now [I] lifted the fuel tank out and the center console has nothing on it. I[']m worried this may cost a lot, although my parents have tons of extra fiberglass supplies from the family business. I unfortunately have little experience with fiberglass repairs. Also I'm not [too] sure which direction to take. [The boat] is over 40 years old. Should [I] just mostly leave it alone, other than cleaning it up and getting the electric working?
Tom W Clark posted 03-14-2011 09:56 PM ET (US)
http://s1109.photobucket.com/home/Stokes889/index
That is an Outrage 19, not a 20' Outrage.
How much of a restoration you want to undertake is up to you.
There is a lot of prior experience and advice available through the search function:
http://continuouswave.com/htdig/
Stokes889 posted 03-14-2011 11:49 PM ET (US)
Im wondering if I should go and grind the old gel coat off, I'd loose the factory grip on the floor, and the off white color.
Also when cleaning should i have the holes taped up, will a bit of water cause damage? Also a few holes I need to reuse are stripped out, maybe fill with epoxy?
Certain spots need epoxy filling, i wonder if I should do this to every hole, then sand and get ready to gel coat.
Also any advice on how to care for the tank, i was thinking rhino liner, but maybe thats an expense i could avoid.
sraab928 posted 03-15-2011 05:31 AM ET (US)
Have a look through here for a complete restoration done on my 1972 Boston Whaler 19. There are 265 pictures to look through and should give you a good overview of the process of a total restoration. I started doing a minor update and then got out of control(pulling the cap and re-gelcoating the entire boat). I ended up putting close to $30k in mine including new trailer and motor. I just realized I need to put updated pictures with the new windshield etc.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/ 1973%20Boston%20Whaler%2019%20Outrage/?albumview=slideshow
Best of luck to you - keep us updated with pictures of your progress.
Stokes889 posted 03-15-2011 09:22 PM ET (US)
Sraab, thanks for the pics, you did a great job. Hope mine comes along like that, but I also hope I don't spend 30k!
I don't need to replace anything too big, the engine and fuel tank are good, and i think the electronics will work once wired correctly.
Stokes889 posted 03-17-2011 10:03 PM ET (US)
New pics posted at
http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h426/Stokes889/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ24.
Starting to grind down on the center console. Using a very heavy grinder trying to be careful, finding out it may come out uneven in spots where cracks are deep, what do you guys do to grind down the old gel coat without going to crazy. I suppose bondo or marine teck could be used like spackle?
Also youll see a picture of the only soft spot i found on the boat, you'll see my hand touching the spot in one picture. Its where the oil tank sits in the back of the boat, the area is a bit soft and squishes water up out of the holes when wet.
Maybe i should drill holes and inject epoxy?
How would you guys go about refinishing this boat i have my hands so full with?
Stokes889 posted 03-15-2011 09:12 PM ET (US)
You could take a look at the pictures I've posted on photobucket, http://s1109.photobucket.com/home/Stokes889/index.
There's plenty of small screw holes in places such as all along the gunwales and a few an the floor from the captin's bench and the center console as well as the cooler, battery and other accessories were all drilled into the boat in various areas, (not to mention a few areas that need extra care with bondo putty).
These screw holes wont all be reused, some are stripped out and some seem to be wet (I stuck a q-tip in to feel around and it was a bit damp.)
History: The boat sat around for a good few years before i bought it back last spring. I used it all summer and it was great, but needed big time cosmetic and practicality adjustments.
Im wondering if i should bondo all the holes and areas that have been split (the transom is split and a few dings here and there on the outer hull, see pictures).
Also, should i dry it out, and how?
I really don't want to drill holes in the back and tilt it, was the old whaler foam able to withstand the wear and tear? You guys know better than me, I am new to this for sure. Also, thanks to all you with this website, I've come a long way so far and had lots of good advice.
I realize its hard to answer my question directly without being right next to it in person, I will have more photos up soon. Basically I'm asking you guys for advice based on personal experience
tjxtreme posted 03-15-2011 09:46 PM ET (US)
This is a frequently asked question. I suggest starting here:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q3
The best way to tell is to weigh it. You could also launch it, and compare its waterline to one that you know isn't waterlogged. Most, if not all, older hulls have some amount of water in them. There is no good way (yet, at least) to get the water out. Either there is a small amount of water and you will just accept that and move on, or there is too much water and it is not worth investing in.
Jeff posted 03-15-2011 10:27 PM ET (US)
For myself, and gauging a hull's "waterloggedness" I like to see the boat floated in water to check where the waterline falls. I also want to check and see if it lists to one side or the other. If the hull floats well, does not seem to sit low or list, I then feel comfortable that things are OK.
I don't think there is a Classic Whaler out there does not have some level water some where in the foam. Because of this a moisture meter is always going to give you elevated readings some where on the hull from a moisture meter no matter what. Weighing the hull is such an in exact science that I truly feel it is a fruitless venture. Whaler has openly admitted that no two classic hulls ever weighed the same and that their published weights were, well, educated guesses. Both the moisture meter and weighing test I think leave a lot of people unduly worried they have soaked/waterlogged hulls.
Honestly I would not be to worried about you boat. People have brought back hulls in FAR worse condition. Once you are finished with your restoration you will have a hull that will provide many many years for good service.
Tohsgib posted 03-16-2011 10:27 AM ET (US)
The gunwales on a 19 do not have foam and therefore are not waterlogged. A lot of the floor itself does not have foam and has a cavity underneath that the water would drain through. If it was fine last year, don't sweat it.
flippa posted 03-18-2011 08:40 PM ET (US)
Are you going to leave this boat a low profile of are you putting it back together?
Don't worry about trying to dry it out. Seal up the holes, clean it up/paint it & start enjoying it.
Stokes889 posted 03-18-2011 10:15 PM ET (US)
I plan to just fix a few spots paint and put it all back together.
Thanks for all the help
Stokes889 posted 03-21-2011 10:59 PM ET (US)
sraab928, i have looked through your photobook pictures for help with my project.
I would like to know from you, or anyone who might have an answer, how did you sand the floor without loosing the pattern. I'm not refering to the factory print on the gelcoat for grip but rather the large rectangular channels on the floor, also areas with slight elevation, such as the panels.
Im sanding and trying to grind down cracking in the gel coat. O plan to bondo and then give it a new gel coating. Does the old finish have to be sanded down all the way to the glass? or can you bondo over cracks.
Also any advice on how to disconnect the steering wheel, theres a circular clip on the bottom end of the wheel shaft. Im afraid to take it off cause it looks hard to get back on.
sraab928 posted 03-24-2011 05:28 AM ET (US)
For the most part my areas were ground down to the glass and rebuilt - We used a flex mold to replicate the non skid but didn't have good success with our methods so we ended up using a sand type non skid. I really don't remember how we did the channel to be honest.
dfmcintyre posted 03-24-2011 02:14 PM ET (US)
Regarding the floor anti-skid....
We had the same issue, ended up grinding down the anti-skid and applying two coats of epoxy with sand. If I had to re-do a floor, knowing what I know now, I'd give some serious thought about using this product:
www.seadek.com
I just saw the samples and was very impressed.
Regards - Don
jimh posted 03-25-2011 08:14 AM ET (US)
Don--Thanks for the information on SeaDek. They make a cushioned pad for use at the helm with a Boston Whaler logo:
http://www.seadekstore.com/bostonwhalerhelmstationpad-fauxteak.aspx
dfmcintyre posted 03-25-2011 05:23 PM ET (US)
Jim -
Tim West, the owner of the marina where we store and service our family boats showed me the product, along with the samples. He installed it in his fathers boat, using the template kit. It was an exact match to the template. The backing just peels off, exposing the contact cement. Much like the stick down carpet squares. The blanks don't have the routed edges. He mentioned that they can do custom logos, boat names, etc.
Not the cheapest way to go, on initial blush. However, if you factored in the labor involved in sanding down the old anti-skid, masking off the regions, preparing and painting twice, it might be econmically feasible.
I don't know about the efficacy applying the product right on top of existing anti-skid (say, with minimal prep, removing grease, etc.), vs applying a thin coat of thickened epoxy over the anti-skid to provide a smooth surface.
Tim's considering contacting them regarding becoming an installer up here.
Best - Don
Stokes889 posted 03-29-2011 08:15 PM ET (US)
I have been sanding and using bondo here and there for about a week now. So I'm at the point to decide how to go about putting on a new finish.
1.) will bondo work for the repairs I will be making on the boats body (i.e. screw holes, gel coat chipping and cracking and old repairs) or should i be using fiber putty or resin?
2.) how thick will the gel coat go on, (i will be brushing and rolling it on) I am wondering if small pin holes and little spider cracking will cover easily with the gel coat?
3.) my gel coat is white, I want off-white! I know you can tint paint, how about gel coat, any of your glass experts know? (haha)

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Author	Topic: 1973 Outrage 19
Stokes889	posted 03-14-2011 09:48 PM ET (US) [Three separate threads whose topic was the same have been consolidated into this single thread. Please do not begin a new thread for each new comment to be made about this boat restoration project.--jimh] I have the boat [which was latered determined to be a c.1973 Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 19] taken completely apart and now am ready for the restoration phase. Please see these pictures: http://s1109.photobucket.com/home/Stokes889/index. You'll see all that I've taken apart, except now [I] lifted the fuel tank out and the center console has nothing on it. I[']m worried this may cost a lot, although my parents have tons of extra fiberglass supplies from the family business. I unfortunately have little experience with fiberglass repairs. Also I'm not [too] sure which direction to take. [The boat] is over 40 years old. Should [I] just mostly leave it alone, other than cleaning it up and getting the electric working?
Tom W Clark	posted 03-14-2011 09:56 PM ET (US) http://s1109.photobucket.com/home/Stokes889/index That is an Outrage 19, not a 20' Outrage. How much of a restoration you want to undertake is up to you. There is a lot of prior experience and advice available through the search function: http://continuouswave.com/htdig/
Stokes889	posted 03-14-2011 11:49 PM ET (US) Im wondering if I should go and grind the old gel coat off, I'd loose the factory grip on the floor, and the off white color. Also when cleaning should i have the holes taped up, will a bit of water cause damage? Also a few holes I need to reuse are stripped out, maybe fill with epoxy? Certain spots need epoxy filling, i wonder if I should do this to every hole, then sand and get ready to gel coat. Also any advice on how to care for the tank, i was thinking rhino liner, but maybe thats an expense i could avoid.
sraab928	posted 03-15-2011 05:31 AM ET (US) Have a look through here for a complete restoration done on my 1972 Boston Whaler 19. There are 265 pictures to look through and should give you a good overview of the process of a total restoration. I started doing a minor update and then got out of control(pulling the cap and re-gelcoating the entire boat). I ended up putting close to $30k in mine including new trailer and motor. I just realized I need to put updated pictures with the new windshield etc. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/ 1973%20Boston%20Whaler%2019%20Outrage/?albumview=slideshow Best of luck to you - keep us updated with pictures of your progress.
Stokes889	posted 03-15-2011 09:22 PM ET (US) Sraab, thanks for the pics, you did a great job. Hope mine comes along like that, but I also hope I don't spend 30k! I don't need to replace anything too big, the engine and fuel tank are good, and i think the electronics will work once wired correctly.
Stokes889	posted 03-17-2011 10:03 PM ET (US) New pics posted at http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h426/Stokes889/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ24. Starting to grind down on the center console. Using a very heavy grinder trying to be careful, finding out it may come out uneven in spots where cracks are deep, what do you guys do to grind down the old gel coat without going to crazy. I suppose bondo or marine teck could be used like spackle? Also youll see a picture of the only soft spot i found on the boat, you'll see my hand touching the spot in one picture. Its where the oil tank sits in the back of the boat, the area is a bit soft and squishes water up out of the holes when wet. Maybe i should drill holes and inject epoxy? How would you guys go about refinishing this boat i have my hands so full with?
Stokes889	posted 03-15-2011 09:12 PM ET (US) You could take a look at the pictures I've posted on photobucket, http://s1109.photobucket.com/home/Stokes889/index. There's plenty of small screw holes in places such as all along the gunwales and a few an the floor from the captin's bench and the center console as well as the cooler, battery and other accessories were all drilled into the boat in various areas, (not to mention a few areas that need extra care with bondo putty). These screw holes wont all be reused, some are stripped out and some seem to be wet (I stuck a q-tip in to feel around and it was a bit damp.) History: The boat sat around for a good few years before i bought it back last spring. I used it all summer and it was great, but needed big time cosmetic and practicality adjustments. Im wondering if i should bondo all the holes and areas that have been split (the transom is split and a few dings here and there on the outer hull, see pictures). Also, should i dry it out, and how? I really don't want to drill holes in the back and tilt it, was the old whaler foam able to withstand the wear and tear? You guys know better than me, I am new to this for sure. Also, thanks to all you with this website, I've come a long way so far and had lots of good advice. I realize its hard to answer my question directly without being right next to it in person, I will have more photos up soon. Basically I'm asking you guys for advice based on personal experience
tjxtreme	posted 03-15-2011 09:46 PM ET (US) This is a frequently asked question. I suggest starting here: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q3 The best way to tell is to weigh it. You could also launch it, and compare its waterline to one that you know isn't waterlogged. Most, if not all, older hulls have some amount of water in them. There is no good way (yet, at least) to get the water out. Either there is a small amount of water and you will just accept that and move on, or there is too much water and it is not worth investing in.
Jeff	posted 03-15-2011 10:27 PM ET (US) For myself, and gauging a hull's "waterloggedness" I like to see the boat floated in water to check where the waterline falls. I also want to check and see if it lists to one side or the other. If the hull floats well, does not seem to sit low or list, I then feel comfortable that things are OK. I don't think there is a Classic Whaler out there does not have some level water some where in the foam. Because of this a moisture meter is always going to give you elevated readings some where on the hull from a moisture meter no matter what. Weighing the hull is such an in exact science that I truly feel it is a fruitless venture. Whaler has openly admitted that no two classic hulls ever weighed the same and that their published weights were, well, educated guesses. Both the moisture meter and weighing test I think leave a lot of people unduly worried they have soaked/waterlogged hulls. Honestly I would not be to worried about you boat. People have brought back hulls in FAR worse condition. Once you are finished with your restoration you will have a hull that will provide many many years for good service.
Tohsgib	posted 03-16-2011 10:27 AM ET (US) The gunwales on a 19 do not have foam and therefore are not waterlogged. A lot of the floor itself does not have foam and has a cavity underneath that the water would drain through. If it was fine last year, don't sweat it.
flippa	posted 03-18-2011 08:40 PM ET (US) Are you going to leave this boat a low profile of are you putting it back together? Don't worry about trying to dry it out. Seal up the holes, clean it up/paint it & start enjoying it.
Stokes889	posted 03-18-2011 10:15 PM ET (US) I plan to just fix a few spots paint and put it all back together. Thanks for all the help
Stokes889	posted 03-21-2011 10:59 PM ET (US) sraab928, i have looked through your photobook pictures for help with my project. I would like to know from you, or anyone who might have an answer, how did you sand the floor without loosing the pattern. I'm not refering to the factory print on the gelcoat for grip but rather the large rectangular channels on the floor, also areas with slight elevation, such as the panels. Im sanding and trying to grind down cracking in the gel coat. O plan to bondo and then give it a new gel coating. Does the old finish have to be sanded down all the way to the glass? or can you bondo over cracks. Also any advice on how to disconnect the steering wheel, theres a circular clip on the bottom end of the wheel shaft. Im afraid to take it off cause it looks hard to get back on.
sraab928	posted 03-24-2011 05:28 AM ET (US) For the most part my areas were ground down to the glass and rebuilt - We used a flex mold to replicate the non skid but didn't have good success with our methods so we ended up using a sand type non skid. I really don't remember how we did the channel to be honest.
dfmcintyre	posted 03-24-2011 02:14 PM ET (US) Regarding the floor anti-skid.... We had the same issue, ended up grinding down the anti-skid and applying two coats of epoxy with sand. If I had to re-do a floor, knowing what I know now, I'd give some serious thought about using this product: www.seadek.com I just saw the samples and was very impressed. Regards - Don
jimh	posted 03-25-2011 08:14 AM ET (US) Don--Thanks for the information on SeaDek. They make a cushioned pad for use at the helm with a Boston Whaler logo: http://www.seadekstore.com/bostonwhalerhelmstationpad-fauxteak.aspx
dfmcintyre	posted 03-25-2011 05:23 PM ET (US) Jim - Tim West, the owner of the marina where we store and service our family boats showed me the product, along with the samples. He installed it in his fathers boat, using the template kit. It was an exact match to the template. The backing just peels off, exposing the contact cement. Much like the stick down carpet squares. The blanks don't have the routed edges. He mentioned that they can do custom logos, boat names, etc. Not the cheapest way to go, on initial blush. However, if you factored in the labor involved in sanding down the old anti-skid, masking off the regions, preparing and painting twice, it might be econmically feasible. I don't know about the efficacy applying the product right on top of existing anti-skid (say, with minimal prep, removing grease, etc.), vs applying a thin coat of thickened epoxy over the anti-skid to provide a smooth surface. Tim's considering contacting them regarding becoming an installer up here. Best - Don
Stokes889	posted 03-29-2011 08:15 PM ET (US) I have been sanding and using bondo here and there for about a week now. So I'm at the point to decide how to go about putting on a new finish. 1.) will bondo work for the repairs I will be making on the boats body (i.e. screw holes, gel coat chipping and cracking and old repairs) or should i be using fiber putty or resin? 2.) how thick will the gel coat go on, (i will be brushing and rolling it on) I am wondering if small pin holes and little spider cracking will cover easily with the gel coat? 3.) my gel coat is white, I want off-white! I know you can tint paint, how about gel coat, any of your glass experts know? (haha)