Downriggers on a Tashmoo (applicable to Newports as well)

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  Downriggers on a Tashmoo (applicable to Newports as well)

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Author Topic:   Downriggers on a Tashmoo (applicable to Newports as well)

lasersailor posted 03-22-2011 04:52 PM ET (US)
I recently moved from Florida to Whidbey Island, WA and have been outfitting my Tashmoo for use up here. I just purchased a used Scotty electric downrigger. After reading a lot of advice on this forum and others, and with salmon holding past 100' regularly up here, I decided to buy one electric instead of 2 manuals for now and save up for a second.
I am looking at my mounting options and trying to decide between two. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Tashmoo, it has an approximately 8" wide sidedeck/gunwale and rail setup identical to the Newport, in addition to molded casting/lounging decks fwd and aft and a small center console. I will try to add some pictures of my setup.
I am thinking that the easiest method would be to use one of the scotty rail mounts on the aft grab rail.
The other, more finished option would be using the standard scotty flip up mount just aft of the grab rail. My concern is that the gunwale cap on the Tashmoo (same as the Newport) may not be sturdy enough to handle the load of a downrigger wih a 10 or 12lb weight (30" boom), even with a backing plate. If it is strong enough the plan would be to make a mahogany wedge on top to bring the gunwale from sloping to parallel with the water, with a starboard backing plate underneath.
If any of you have mounted something like this on your newport, and have insight on the best method or whether the deck is strong enough please chime in. I'm also not sure how far to extend the backing plate on each side of the downrigger base if I go that route.
Also, if you were fishing with one downrigger, which side would you mount it on. I have read the discussions debating between mounting in the middle and mounting on the aft corner, but none on which side, presumably because most people are mounting in pairs, which I will do eventually. The only consideration I can think of for which side is weight and balance, if there are others that I am missing please enlighten me as I am new to downrigger fishing. Thanks
Jeff
kwik_wurk posted 03-22-2011 11:46 PM ET (US)
Welcome to the PNW, sorry for the crappy Spring weather. It's been below average this year. -- I advise buying a lot of pink salmon gear now, PNW is going to have a good run this year. (Smart move on the electric, I love mine, and always look for deals on used ones.)
For the short term I would clamp to the aft grab rails. Wait until you get out on the water and have had your lines down for a bit before drilling holes. -- Holes are hard to undo. -- (And make sure to install a brace to keep the downrigger boom from rolling over due to load.)
(You imply you'll fish solo more often than not correct?)
For the long term, I would suggest the aft corners. But I can't make comments on mounting, but it should be sturdy, you'll be fishing deep at times.
Here are my $0.02:
1. The layout of the boat really dictates what you can (or can not do). But ideally you should be able to sit at the helm to steer (sideways or aft facing most often) and have the tip of the pole/rod in your sight-line. You are fishing after all. - For conventional boats this means helm to Stbd, and the solo rod is to Port. On a center console this is a moot point, but your layout may differ.
2. Most people mount their downriggers far enough aft that when making a turn the lines clear the transom and whatever else is back there. You can overcome this by extending the boom, but the extra length can be awkward at times. (On my boats, the riggers are aft quarters, but forward enough on the gunnels that I can stand further aft than the downrigger base itself, or about 1.5'-2.5' forward of the transom.) -- The overall elementary problem is keep the wire and line from rubbing/touching anything while you fish. (Not rocket science.)
3. You'll likely want a kicker sooner or later. The 16' and 16'7" hull prop torque causes noticeable list to port while underway (you likely know this). Hence, kickers almost always ends up on Stbd. --- With the kicker to Stbd, I always fish solo to Port. Mainly, to stay away from the prop (guard) and to distribute the weight better when you fish opposite the kicker
4. Anticipate how you are going to retrieve the weight and stow/rotate your downrigger when not in use. Mine swivel 360, and I can grab/drop the ball fore or aft of the base. -- Once you get in the water this will make a lot more sense.
davej14 posted 03-23-2011 02:29 PM ET (US)
Good advice from kwik-wurk, I would add:
1. If you have a Bimini, consider the potential interference with the Bimini in the up and stored position.
2. I mounted my one Scotty electric downrigger on the port side because my steering wheel is also closer to the port side. Where you can position the electrical socket is another consideration.
3. I use a Scotty rail mount. You need to have the brace as mentioned above. Not so intuitive is that you also need to prevent the mount from rotating to inboard when you tip up the downrigger. I mount it at a vertical rail support location and use a couple of 3/4" plastic electrical conduit "U" clamps around the vertical support and attached to the backside of the brace. I started out fabricating the brace from 3/4" poplar to get the dimensions right. I was intending to make it from "starboard" but it worked so well I ended up painting it instead. After three years it's still going strong and looks presentable.
lasersailor posted 03-23-2011 11:03 PM ET (US)

Kwik and Dave. Thanks for the tips. After thinking about it and sitting on the boat for a while, it is more comfortable to look back to the port quarter than the starboard so I will mount the first one there, as it may be a while before I get a second anyway.
I don't currently have a bimini. I will be adding a forward shelter, but that should be far enough forward not to interfere. Dave, do you have any photos of the way your rail mount is set up? I hadn't thought about supporting it in the flipped up position. The rail doesn't have any handy vertical supports and doesn't seem as sturdy as a Montauk rail. I think I am leaning toward beefing up the gunwale cap just aft of the rail with a backing plate and a 10 degree wedge on top to make it level. That should give me enough room behind it to sit on the aft deck and reach the release while setting up.
Here are some photos of that area for those who aren't familiar with the Tashmoo.
<http://www.flickr.com/photos/55413597@N03/5555071740/>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55413597@N03/5555071760/
davej14 posted 03-25-2011 11:46 AM ET (US)
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Author	Topic: Downriggers on a Tashmoo (applicable to Newports as well)
lasersailor	posted 03-22-2011 04:52 PM ET (US) I recently moved from Florida to Whidbey Island, WA and have been outfitting my Tashmoo for use up here. I just purchased a used Scotty electric downrigger. After reading a lot of advice on this forum and others, and with salmon holding past 100' regularly up here, I decided to buy one electric instead of 2 manuals for now and save up for a second. I am looking at my mounting options and trying to decide between two. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Tashmoo, it has an approximately 8" wide sidedeck/gunwale and rail setup identical to the Newport, in addition to molded casting/lounging decks fwd and aft and a small center console. I will try to add some pictures of my setup. I am thinking that the easiest method would be to use one of the scotty rail mounts on the aft grab rail. The other, more finished option would be using the standard scotty flip up mount just aft of the grab rail. My concern is that the gunwale cap on the Tashmoo (same as the Newport) may not be sturdy enough to handle the load of a downrigger wih a 10 or 12lb weight (30" boom), even with a backing plate. If it is strong enough the plan would be to make a mahogany wedge on top to bring the gunwale from sloping to parallel with the water, with a starboard backing plate underneath. If any of you have mounted something like this on your newport, and have insight on the best method or whether the deck is strong enough please chime in. I'm also not sure how far to extend the backing plate on each side of the downrigger base if I go that route. Also, if you were fishing with one downrigger, which side would you mount it on. I have read the discussions debating between mounting in the middle and mounting on the aft corner, but none on which side, presumably because most people are mounting in pairs, which I will do eventually. The only consideration I can think of for which side is weight and balance, if there are others that I am missing please enlighten me as I am new to downrigger fishing. Thanks Jeff
kwik_wurk	posted 03-22-2011 11:46 PM ET (US) Welcome to the PNW, sorry for the crappy Spring weather. It's been below average this year. -- I advise buying a lot of pink salmon gear now, PNW is going to have a good run this year. (Smart move on the electric, I love mine, and always look for deals on used ones.) For the short term I would clamp to the aft grab rails. Wait until you get out on the water and have had your lines down for a bit before drilling holes. -- Holes are hard to undo. -- (And make sure to install a brace to keep the downrigger boom from rolling over due to load.) (You imply you'll fish solo more often than not correct?) For the long term, I would suggest the aft corners. But I can't make comments on mounting, but it should be sturdy, you'll be fishing deep at times. Here are my $0.02: 1. The layout of the boat really dictates what you can (or can not do). But ideally you should be able to sit at the helm to steer (sideways or aft facing most often) and have the tip of the pole/rod in your sight-line. You are fishing after all. - For conventional boats this means helm to Stbd, and the solo rod is to Port. On a center console this is a moot point, but your layout may differ. 2. Most people mount their downriggers far enough aft that when making a turn the lines clear the transom and whatever else is back there. You can overcome this by extending the boom, but the extra length can be awkward at times. (On my boats, the riggers are aft quarters, but forward enough on the gunnels that I can stand further aft than the downrigger base itself, or about 1.5'-2.5' forward of the transom.) -- The overall elementary problem is keep the wire and line from rubbing/touching anything while you fish. (Not rocket science.) 3. You'll likely want a kicker sooner or later. The 16' and 16'7" hull prop torque causes noticeable list to port while underway (you likely know this). Hence, kickers almost always ends up on Stbd. --- With the kicker to Stbd, I always fish solo to Port. Mainly, to stay away from the prop (guard) and to distribute the weight better when you fish opposite the kicker 4. Anticipate how you are going to retrieve the weight and stow/rotate your downrigger when not in use. Mine swivel 360, and I can grab/drop the ball fore or aft of the base. -- Once you get in the water this will make a lot more sense.
davej14	posted 03-23-2011 02:29 PM ET (US) Good advice from kwik-wurk, I would add: 1. If you have a Bimini, consider the potential interference with the Bimini in the up and stored position. 2. I mounted my one Scotty electric downrigger on the port side because my steering wheel is also closer to the port side. Where you can position the electrical socket is another consideration. 3. I use a Scotty rail mount. You need to have the brace as mentioned above. Not so intuitive is that you also need to prevent the mount from rotating to inboard when you tip up the downrigger. I mount it at a vertical rail support location and use a couple of 3/4" plastic electrical conduit "U" clamps around the vertical support and attached to the backside of the brace. I started out fabricating the brace from 3/4" poplar to get the dimensions right. I was intending to make it from "starboard" but it worked so well I ended up painting it instead. After three years it's still going strong and looks presentable.
lasersailor	posted 03-23-2011 11:03 PM ET (US) Kwik and Dave. Thanks for the tips. After thinking about it and sitting on the boat for a while, it is more comfortable to look back to the port quarter than the starboard so I will mount the first one there, as it may be a while before I get a second anyway. I don't currently have a bimini. I will be adding a forward shelter, but that should be far enough forward not to interfere. Dave, do you have any photos of the way your rail mount is set up? I hadn't thought about supporting it in the flipped up position. The rail doesn't have any handy vertical supports and doesn't seem as sturdy as a Montauk rail. I think I am leaning toward beefing up the gunwale cap just aft of the rail with a backing plate and a 10 degree wedge on top to make it level. That should give me enough room behind it to sit on the aft deck and reach the release while setting up. Here are some photos of that area for those who aren't familiar with the Tashmoo. <http://www.flickr.com/photos/55413597@N03/5555071740/> http://www.flickr.com/photos/55413597@N03/5555071760/
davej14	posted 03-25-2011 11:46 AM ET (US) You've got mail.