1992 Evinrude 200 Service - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  1992 Evinrude 200 Service

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   1992 Evinrude 200 Service

JMARTIN posted 03-29-2011 01:33 PM ET (US)
The [1992 Evinrude 200-HP engine] is an E200TXENE with 440-hours of saltwater use. I was going to replace the water pump--it's been 3 years--the gear oil, plugs, external gas and oil filters. I do not think the oil filter has ever been changed.
I have been using SeaFoam at times, and my old mechanic says that my VRO is a little heavy on the "clicks" so it gets lots of oil. Do you think I should have them do a [de-carbon procedure]?
It's been about four years since I had the carburetors cleaned and synchronized. The motor is running very smoothly and the [fuel] economy is as good as it has ever been. Should I have [the carburetors] synchronized again?
My old mechanic said to leave hthis alone. The housing seems sound, but the enamel looking paint on it is cracked all over the place. It's like it got hot and expanded or something. I have painted it a bit and put some Lifecaulk on it last year.
This will be a new shop for me and I hope they have a looper-skilled mechanic. The last two shops I used have gone out of business.
John
Peter posted 03-29-2011 01:48 PM ET (US)
A [de-carbon procedure] cannot hurt. But you can do that yourself by spraying a can of Engine Tuner into the carburetors following the directions on the can.
I would not do a carburetor clean or sync-and-link if [the engine] is running well.
Tohsgib posted 03-29-2011 01:56 PM ET (US)
I agree with Peter...yes I said that ;)
Tom W Clark posted 03-29-2011 02:00 PM ET (US)
I concur.
JMARTIN posted 03-29-2011 02:08 PM ET (US)
In order to spray into the carburetors I have to remove the air [silencer], and it has a gasket--so I am told. Can I remove [the air silencer] and reinstall without replacing the gasket? The motor has a fogging valve. Do [Evinrude] make a product that fits on there for de-carbon procedures?
If I remember correctly, I poured some SeaFoam into the external gas filter last time for a concentrated dose.
John
JMARTIN posted 03-29-2011 02:10 PM ET (US)
What do you think about the rusty tilt trim motor housing?
John
Peter posted 03-29-2011 02:17 PM ET (US)
You should be able to spray it in through the fogging valve. Just buy a can of fogging oil with the fogging valve adapter, pull the adapter off the fogging oil can and snap it onto the Engine Tuner can.
Leave the tilt motor housing alone. You can paint it with a can of white outboard motor paint if you like.
Tom W Clark posted 03-29-2011 02:21 PM ET (US)
John--The valve at the primer will need a Schrader Valve to attach the can of OMC Engine Tuner to. It is an easy part to add if your motor does not already have one.
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009893.html
Take your old mechanic's advice and do not mess with the tilt motor. Scrape and paint if you like.
adlert posted 03-29-2011 05:46 PM ET (US)
I also agree you should leave the trim motor alone for now. However, make sure you know where your manual release valve is and carry whatever tool you need to actuate it onboard (usually a good-size slotted screw driver). Should your tilt motor fail, you will likely need to use that manual release valve that day.
jimh posted 03-29-2011 07:28 PM ET (US)
I have never heard the expression "heavy on the clicks" used in regard to the Evinrude variable-ratio oiling (VRO) or oil mixing system (OMS) fuel pump. If my memory is correct, on a c.1992 engine the fuel pump should be running a bit lean on oil compared to the later replacement pumps. I think a c.1992 V6 engine would have had a fuel pump that tended to run with a higher gasoline:oil ratio, say as high as 100:1, than the later pumps. I think Evinrude backed the gasoline:oil ratio down to more like 60:1 on the later pumps. Perhaps you engine has already been fitted with a newer pump. In any case, I never heard of any adjustment being possible, so I don't understand the mechanic's reference to clicks, which I interpret to mean like the ratchet setting of some sort of adjustable control. There aren't any adjustments on the VRO or OMS pumps, and the gasoline:oil ratio is fixed by the design of the pump and the engine speed.
JMARTIN posted 03-29-2011 10:57 PM ET (US)
He listened to the pump and counted the "clicks". It is one of the newer pumps with the brown elbow on the top.

John
Tom W Clark posted 03-29-2011 11:57 PM ET (US)
If the OMS or VRO pump makes clicking sounds as it meters the oil, then I assume that is what the mechanic is referring to. I can see no implication of it being adjustable in any way. Indeed, we know it is not adjustable.
We also know that the VRO and OMS oil mixing pumps will tend to increase the oil/gas ratio as it wears. This is one of its benefits; the motor will not be starved of oil as the pump grows older.
So if the OMS pump is putting out a little extra oil because of its age, it will be clicking more or be "a little heavy on the clicks".
seahorse posted 03-30-2011 07:05 AM ET (US)

quote:

He listened to the pump and counted the "clicks".

If there is air in the fuel lines, the aerated fuel volume against the pumping diaphragm has less resistance than the pump chamber filled with liquid gasoline so the "VRO" will cycle quicker and click more often. Each click also adds oil so more clicks richen the gas-oil mixture.

quote:

It is one of the newer pumps with the brown elbow on the top.
The brown elbow pumps were last used about 1995, 16 years ago.
jimh posted 03-30-2011 07:11 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the explanation of the acoustic clicking of the VRO or OMS pump. I do not recall that being mentioned before.
JMARTIN posted 03-30-2011 12:41 PM ET (US)
Maybe the mechanic had not listened to my style of VRO pump before. It would "click" more often than the older style.
From this fine article;
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

"The older pumps idled between 150:1 (prior to 1990) and 100:1 (1990-1992), then richened up to 50:1 as the engine load increased. They are recognized by the brown fuel outlet fitting and/or a wiring harness attached to the alarm module."
I am worried about the age of the hoses. The ones I can see look OK, but they have to be getting brittle by now.
John

Tohsgib posted 03-30-2011 01:59 PM ET (US)
I have never seen a VRO hose get brittle that was not exposed to sun continuously. Mine were hidden and after 15 years looked like new. I still have a couple cans of OMC Tuner with the scrader hose connector. Comes in handy and no mess. Should still be able to buy at any BRP dealer.
JMARTIN posted 03-30-2011 06:28 PM ET (US)
I was wondering about heat degrading the hoses over time. The overheat alarm and SLOW mode has kicked in 3 times, darn kelp, and she is pretty hot in no wake zones.
I better do the thermostats also.
John
seahorse posted 03-31-2011 06:20 AM ET (US)
I just came across this link about air leaks in the fuel and how they affect the operation of the "VRO" pump and the oiling ratio.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEbW-6eOc5I&feature=related
andygere posted 04-01-2011 11:01 AM ET (US)
Replace the hoses. My Mercury 200 died an early death because an automatic oiler hose cracked and leaked enough oil to let one of the cylinders run lean. Heat was the killer, since the hose was soft and pliable in the middle, but as it turns out, brittle on the hose barbs attached to the motor. I did what everyone does to check them: give them a little squeeze to see if they are pliable. The middle will be, but the ends are probably rotten.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 1992 Evinrude 200 Service
JMARTIN	posted 03-29-2011 01:33 PM ET (US) The [1992 Evinrude 200-HP engine] is an E200TXENE with 440-hours of saltwater use. I was going to replace the water pump--it's been 3 years--the gear oil, plugs, external gas and oil filters. I do not think the oil filter has ever been changed. I have been using SeaFoam at times, and my old mechanic says that my VRO is a little heavy on the "clicks" so it gets lots of oil. Do you think I should have them do a [de-carbon procedure]? It's been about four years since I had the carburetors cleaned and synchronized. The motor is running very smoothly and the [fuel] economy is as good as it has ever been. Should I have [the carburetors] synchronized again? My old mechanic said to leave hthis alone. The housing seems sound, but the enamel looking paint on it is cracked all over the place. It's like it got hot and expanded or something. I have painted it a bit and put some Lifecaulk on it last year. This will be a new shop for me and I hope they have a looper-skilled mechanic. The last two shops I used have gone out of business. John
Peter	posted 03-29-2011 01:48 PM ET (US) A [de-carbon procedure] cannot hurt. But you can do that yourself by spraying a can of Engine Tuner into the carburetors following the directions on the can. I would not do a carburetor clean or sync-and-link if [the engine] is running well.
Tohsgib	posted 03-29-2011 01:56 PM ET (US) I agree with Peter...yes I said that ;)
Tom W Clark	posted 03-29-2011 02:00 PM ET (US) I concur.
JMARTIN	posted 03-29-2011 02:08 PM ET (US) In order to spray into the carburetors I have to remove the air [silencer], and it has a gasket--so I am told. Can I remove [the air silencer] and reinstall without replacing the gasket? The motor has a fogging valve. Do [Evinrude] make a product that fits on there for de-carbon procedures? If I remember correctly, I poured some SeaFoam into the external gas filter last time for a concentrated dose. John
JMARTIN	posted 03-29-2011 02:10 PM ET (US) What do you think about the rusty tilt trim motor housing? John
Peter	posted 03-29-2011 02:17 PM ET (US) You should be able to spray it in through the fogging valve. Just buy a can of fogging oil with the fogging valve adapter, pull the adapter off the fogging oil can and snap it onto the Engine Tuner can. Leave the tilt motor housing alone. You can paint it with a can of white outboard motor paint if you like.
Tom W Clark	posted 03-29-2011 02:21 PM ET (US) John--The valve at the primer will need a Schrader Valve to attach the can of OMC Engine Tuner to. It is an easy part to add if your motor does not already have one. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009893.html Take your old mechanic's advice and do not mess with the tilt motor. Scrape and paint if you like.
adlert	posted 03-29-2011 05:46 PM ET (US) I also agree you should leave the trim motor alone for now. However, make sure you know where your manual release valve is and carry whatever tool you need to actuate it onboard (usually a good-size slotted screw driver). Should your tilt motor fail, you will likely need to use that manual release valve that day.
jimh	posted 03-29-2011 07:28 PM ET (US) I have never heard the expression "heavy on the clicks" used in regard to the Evinrude variable-ratio oiling (VRO) or oil mixing system (OMS) fuel pump. If my memory is correct, on a c.1992 engine the fuel pump should be running a bit lean on oil compared to the later replacement pumps. I think a c.1992 V6 engine would have had a fuel pump that tended to run with a higher gasoline:oil ratio, say as high as 100:1, than the later pumps. I think Evinrude backed the gasoline:oil ratio down to more like 60:1 on the later pumps. Perhaps you engine has already been fitted with a newer pump. In any case, I never heard of any adjustment being possible, so I don't understand the mechanic's reference to clicks, which I interpret to mean like the ratchet setting of some sort of adjustable control. There aren't any adjustments on the VRO or OMS pumps, and the gasoline:oil ratio is fixed by the design of the pump and the engine speed.
JMARTIN	posted 03-29-2011 10:57 PM ET (US) He listened to the pump and counted the "clicks". It is one of the newer pumps with the brown elbow on the top. John
Tom W Clark	posted 03-29-2011 11:57 PM ET (US) If the OMS or VRO pump makes clicking sounds as it meters the oil, then I assume that is what the mechanic is referring to. I can see no implication of it being adjustable in any way. Indeed, we know it is not adjustable. We also know that the VRO and OMS oil mixing pumps will tend to increase the oil/gas ratio as it wears. This is one of its benefits; the motor will not be starved of oil as the pump grows older. So if the OMS pump is putting out a little extra oil because of its age, it will be clicking more or be "a little heavy on the clicks".
seahorse	posted 03-30-2011 07:05 AM ET (US) quote: He listened to the pump and counted the "clicks". If there is air in the fuel lines, the aerated fuel volume against the pumping diaphragm has less resistance than the pump chamber filled with liquid gasoline so the "VRO" will cycle quicker and click more often. Each click also adds oil so more clicks richen the gas-oil mixture. quote: It is one of the newer pumps with the brown elbow on the top. The brown elbow pumps were last used about 1995, 16 years ago.
jimh	posted 03-30-2011 07:11 AM ET (US) Thanks for the explanation of the acoustic clicking of the VRO or OMS pump. I do not recall that being mentioned before.
JMARTIN	posted 03-30-2011 12:41 PM ET (US) Maybe the mechanic had not listened to my style of VRO pump before. It would "click" more often than the older style. From this fine article; http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html "The older pumps idled between 150:1 (prior to 1990) and 100:1 (1990-1992), then richened up to 50:1 as the engine load increased. They are recognized by the brown fuel outlet fitting and/or a wiring harness attached to the alarm module." I am worried about the age of the hoses. The ones I can see look OK, but they have to be getting brittle by now. John
Tohsgib	posted 03-30-2011 01:59 PM ET (US) I have never seen a VRO hose get brittle that was not exposed to sun continuously. Mine were hidden and after 15 years looked like new. I still have a couple cans of OMC Tuner with the scrader hose connector. Comes in handy and no mess. Should still be able to buy at any BRP dealer.
JMARTIN	posted 03-30-2011 06:28 PM ET (US) I was wondering about heat degrading the hoses over time. The overheat alarm and SLOW mode has kicked in 3 times, darn kelp, and she is pretty hot in no wake zones. I better do the thermostats also. John
seahorse	posted 03-31-2011 06:20 AM ET (US) I just came across this link about air leaks in the fuel and how they affect the operation of the "VRO" pump and the oiling ratio. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEbW-6eOc5I&feature=related
andygere	posted 04-01-2011 11:01 AM ET (US) Replace the hoses. My Mercury 200 died an early death because an automatic oiler hose cracked and leaked enough oil to let one of the cylinders run lean. Heat was the killer, since the hose was soft and pliable in the middle, but as it turns out, brittle on the hose barbs attached to the motor. I did what everyone does to check them: give them a little squeeze to see if they are pliable. The middle will be, but the ends are probably rotten.