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Author Topic:   Drain Tube Replacement

gmoulder posted 09-18-2011 10:54 PM ET (US)
[On a Boston Whaler 1988 Outrage 18] the three transom 1-1/4-inch drain tubes have been replaced with little [difficulty]. [An attempt was made] to replace the smaller drain tube in the small sump in the starboard aft section. If all the other drain tubes were corroded, that one should be ready to go as well. Also, I have never been able to get the tube to stop leaking into the sump. [I] bought the 1-inch drain plug from West Marine, bought a length of 1-inch diameter copper tube at Home Depot, removed the existing drain tube, then discovered two things: the new 1-inch diameter tube was slightly larger than the existing hole, and the new 1-inch diameter drain plug was smaller than the new tube. Turns out the existing 1-inch diameter drain tube is not 1-inch but is actually 7/8-inch diameter; and so is my new 1-inch drain plug. It would seem that the way out on this one is to obtain some 7/8-inch tube. It does appear that the reason water continued to collect in the sump--no matter how hard I screwed down on the drain plug--was because water was leaking past the interface on the bottom of the boat, into the boat, and then into the sump past the interface in the sump. There was some water in the section between the inner and outer fiberglass, but not much. It will be hard for me to drill a 1-inch hole through from either top or bottom due to the trailer and sump configuration. What is going on here, and how do I get out of this? Glen
MATTANZA posted 09-19-2011 05:00 AM ET (US)
[I]'m in the midst of replacing all seven of my brass drain tubes in my [OUTRAGE 25]. Use brass, not copper. [I] got the brass tubing from [M]c[M]aster[-C]arr. [I] got the flaring tool fron [J]amestown [D]istributors. [They] also have the drain tubes in all different sizes. [I] made my own tubes from the tubing. [Y]ou will also need #18 [O-]rings. [I] got them at [H]ome [D]epot. [E]verything on my boat is 1-inch, not 7/8-inch.
MyOutrage posted 09-19-2011 08:23 AM ET (US)
Read through the following post. It should answer all your questions. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
jimh posted 09-19-2011 11:02 AM ET (US)
Drain tube replacement is discussed in the FAQ. Below is a hyperlink to the FAQ answer on the topic of drain tube replacement.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12
Tom W Clark posted 09-19-2011 12:38 PM ET (US)
Glen -- The drain tubes are brass, not copper. Do not use copper for drain tubes.
The sump drain is 1" not 7/8", though during the flaring process there is often a counter-bulge or the beginning of a buckle that makes the inside diameter of the tube a little less than 1". That is actually a good thing as it helps synch the tube to the fiberglass skin of the hull.
The drain plugs can be adjusted to accommodate hole a little less or a little more than 1" in diameter. You simply unscrew or tighten the nut on the end of the drain plug to adjust its compressibility and ultimate diameter.
gmoulder posted 09-20-2011 02:06 PM ET (US)
Act in haste, repent in leisure. I was in a hurry on this one, and did not think what was happening through. Did not make sure that the new 1" drain plug would fit in the Home Depot tubing before embarking on the job. Have now ordered the 1" flanging tool [was going to do the ball peen hammer trick] and the proper ID / OD tubing in brass. I operate [when I can get to the boat] in fresh water so am not sure about the difference in use of copper and brass. We use copper pipe / tube in fresh water industrial applications all the time. Will replace the 1 1/4" center transom drain in brass while I am at it, did not like the job I did recently with the copper anyway. Who knows, might get in the big water one of these days. Thanks everyone. Glen
MyOutrage posted 09-21-2011 07:59 AM ET (US)
If you have the resources (aka a compressor) you might also want to try the pneumatic driver solution for the flanging die. I know first hand that it was invaluable when it came to the non-90 degree angles you have to deal with.

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Author	Topic: Drain Tube Replacement
gmoulder	posted 09-18-2011 10:54 PM ET (US) [On a Boston Whaler 1988 Outrage 18] the three transom 1-1/4-inch drain tubes have been replaced with little [difficulty]. [An attempt was made] to replace the smaller drain tube in the small sump in the starboard aft section. If all the other drain tubes were corroded, that one should be ready to go as well. Also, I have never been able to get the tube to stop leaking into the sump. [I] bought the 1-inch drain plug from West Marine, bought a length of 1-inch diameter copper tube at Home Depot, removed the existing drain tube, then discovered two things: the new 1-inch diameter tube was slightly larger than the existing hole, and the new 1-inch diameter drain plug was smaller than the new tube. Turns out the existing 1-inch diameter drain tube is not 1-inch but is actually 7/8-inch diameter; and so is my new 1-inch drain plug. It would seem that the way out on this one is to obtain some 7/8-inch tube. It does appear that the reason water continued to collect in the sump--no matter how hard I screwed down on the drain plug--was because water was leaking past the interface on the bottom of the boat, into the boat, and then into the sump past the interface in the sump. There was some water in the section between the inner and outer fiberglass, but not much. It will be hard for me to drill a 1-inch hole through from either top or bottom due to the trailer and sump configuration. What is going on here, and how do I get out of this? Glen
MATTANZA	posted 09-19-2011 05:00 AM ET (US) [I]'m in the midst of replacing all seven of my brass drain tubes in my [OUTRAGE 25]. Use brass, not copper. [I] got the brass tubing from [M]c[M]aster[-C]arr. [I] got the flaring tool fron [J]amestown [D]istributors. [They] also have the drain tubes in all different sizes. [I] made my own tubes from the tubing. [Y]ou will also need #18 [O-]rings. [I] got them at [H]ome [D]epot. [E]verything on my boat is 1-inch, not 7/8-inch.
MyOutrage	posted 09-19-2011 08:23 AM ET (US) Read through the following post. It should answer all your questions. http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/009805.html
jimh	posted 09-19-2011 11:02 AM ET (US) Drain tube replacement is discussed in the FAQ. Below is a hyperlink to the FAQ answer on the topic of drain tube replacement. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12
Tom W Clark	posted 09-19-2011 12:38 PM ET (US) Glen -- The drain tubes are brass, not copper. Do not use copper for drain tubes. The sump drain is 1" not 7/8", though during the flaring process there is often a counter-bulge or the beginning of a buckle that makes the inside diameter of the tube a little less than 1". That is actually a good thing as it helps synch the tube to the fiberglass skin of the hull. The drain plugs can be adjusted to accommodate hole a little less or a little more than 1" in diameter. You simply unscrew or tighten the nut on the end of the drain plug to adjust its compressibility and ultimate diameter.
gmoulder	posted 09-20-2011 02:06 PM ET (US) Act in haste, repent in leisure. I was in a hurry on this one, and did not think what was happening through. Did not make sure that the new 1" drain plug would fit in the Home Depot tubing before embarking on the job. Have now ordered the 1" flanging tool [was going to do the ball peen hammer trick] and the proper ID / OD tubing in brass. I operate [when I can get to the boat] in fresh water so am not sure about the difference in use of copper and brass. We use copper pipe / tube in fresh water industrial applications all the time. Will replace the 1 1/4" center transom drain in brass while I am at it, did not like the job I did recently with the copper anyway. Who knows, might get in the big water one of these days. Thanks everyone. Glen
MyOutrage	posted 09-21-2011 07:59 AM ET (US) If you have the resources (aka a compressor) you might also want to try the pneumatic driver solution for the flanging die. I know first hand that it was invaluable when it came to the non-90 degree angles you have to deal with.