1989 Outrage 18' - Teak Redo-Oil or Varnish?

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  1989 Outrage 18' - Teak Redo-Oil or Varnish?

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Author Topic:   1989 Outrage 18' - Teak Redo-Oil or Varnish?

vdbgroup posted 02-04-2012 01:22 PM ET (US)
Would appreciate some pros, cons, tips as I am planning to do a refurb on all my wood trim inlcuding teak gunnels and teak console doors and teak swim platform.
I have seen pics of gunnels and doors varnished that look great, but wondering about the durability and maintenance. I do my boating in Texas-saltwater.
I know how to do a good teak clean-up and oil, but like the rich look or varnish. So need some tips and pros and cons of using varnish.
I will be applying new varnish to rod holders and cooler cleats as the varnish has peeled off.
Thanks.

Lionheart posted 02-04-2012 05:31 PM ET (US)
On my last two boats, I've had good results with 3 coats of West System Epoxy, and then 8 coats of high gloss varnish with extra UV protection.
stefan posted 02-04-2012 07:33 PM ET (US)
I currently use the sanding/oil method, but next time, plan to use cetol. I've seen great results, and much less issues with upkeep and peeling like varnish (i'm told)
Buckda posted 02-04-2012 07:39 PM ET (US)
You need to use the special hardener with WEST SYSTEM - otherwise it will yellow with exposure to UV.
Rule of thumb is that if you can visibly notice that you need to re-varnish, you've let it go too long.
I prefer varnish - and recommend that you take the time and extra steps to do a great job - and remember to scuff and re-coat all your wood once each year.
A durable finish will require several thinned base coats over bare wood, and then multiple build coats. Think 2-3 thinned coats and then 6-8 build coats with a new coat scuffed and laid on each year. Also, you must remember to repair scratches and nicks....varnished brightwork takes WORK.
The other way is fine too - and there are plenty of boats out there that use teak oil and look great. Application of teak oil is easier (although be sure to keep it off any painted surfaces), but in that Texas sun, you'll need to do it multiple times each season - think 4 or 5 times.
I'd rather take my medicine once each year with the varnish...but it's a personal preference.
ericflys posted 02-04-2012 10:21 PM ET (US)
On my boat I use Sitkens Teak product with great results. Its expensive, but its the best.
Basshole posted 02-10-2012 12:59 PM ET (US)
I have been using Sikkens Cetol for redwood fences and garage doors for years. It works much better than anything else I've tried. It really holds up well to constant sun exposure, and for a long time. I think I will use it for the wood on my Montauk when I refinish. Is the teak product Eric mentioned even available in CA?
Tohsgib posted 02-10-2012 02:10 PM ET (US)
I agree with the varnish(Sikkens Cetol) ESPECIALLY if you have canvas to protect it. If not follow Buckda's advice.
andygere posted 02-10-2012 05:11 PM ET (US)
Do you keep the boat covered? Do you fish? In my opinion, varnish is really too fragile for a boat that gets used hard, and once it's compromised, you have to remove it completely to get it looking good again. I have always oiled my teak, and if kept clean and covered, it keeps looking good for a long time. It's easy to touch up and reapply, and it's much more durable under feet, bait, big flopping fish coming over the rail and anything else you can throw at it. Whaler selected teak for it's natural durability, and because the boats are meant to be used. I appreciate the look of gleaming varnish, and don't find fault with those who go that route. Be advised though, that once you varnish, there's really no going back and it's a big commitment to keep it looking good. Neglected teak that's been oiled is relatively easy to bring back. Neglected teak that's been varnished? A nightmare. 1 vote for oiled teak here.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/ Fleet%20Week%20Cruise%202006/IMG_1919.jpg
Lionheart posted 02-10-2012 06:32 PM ET (US)
Should you consider West System Epoxy, there are three hardners....205,206 and 207. The 207 is used when you want to keep the natural colour of the wood.
ericflys posted 02-10-2012 08:44 PM ET (US)
The product I use is "Sikkens Cetol Marine Natural Teak". My boat is exposed everyday of the year, and it seems to hold up the best and is easy to apply yearly maintenance coats(highly reccomended).
vdbgroup posted 02-12-2012 02:41 PM ET (US)
Thanks All. Will stick with oiling the teak and try Sitkens product.
Will get my varnish kicks on cleats and rod holders.
BTW, boat is kept in dry storage used mostly for fishing.
Will post some pics in a couple of months.

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Author	Topic: 1989 Outrage 18' - Teak Redo-Oil or Varnish?
vdbgroup	posted 02-04-2012 01:22 PM ET (US) Would appreciate some pros, cons, tips as I am planning to do a refurb on all my wood trim inlcuding teak gunnels and teak console doors and teak swim platform. I have seen pics of gunnels and doors varnished that look great, but wondering about the durability and maintenance. I do my boating in Texas-saltwater. I know how to do a good teak clean-up and oil, but like the rich look or varnish. So need some tips and pros and cons of using varnish. I will be applying new varnish to rod holders and cooler cleats as the varnish has peeled off. Thanks.
Lionheart	posted 02-04-2012 05:31 PM ET (US) On my last two boats, I've had good results with 3 coats of West System Epoxy, and then 8 coats of high gloss varnish with extra UV protection.
stefan	posted 02-04-2012 07:33 PM ET (US) I currently use the sanding/oil method, but next time, plan to use cetol. I've seen great results, and much less issues with upkeep and peeling like varnish (i'm told)
Buckda	posted 02-04-2012 07:39 PM ET (US) You need to use the special hardener with WEST SYSTEM - otherwise it will yellow with exposure to UV. Rule of thumb is that if you can visibly notice that you need to re-varnish, you've let it go too long. I prefer varnish - and recommend that you take the time and extra steps to do a great job - and remember to scuff and re-coat all your wood once each year. A durable finish will require several thinned base coats over bare wood, and then multiple build coats. Think 2-3 thinned coats and then 6-8 build coats with a new coat scuffed and laid on each year. Also, you must remember to repair scratches and nicks....varnished brightwork takes WORK. The other way is fine too - and there are plenty of boats out there that use teak oil and look great. Application of teak oil is easier (although be sure to keep it off any painted surfaces), but in that Texas sun, you'll need to do it multiple times each season - think 4 or 5 times. I'd rather take my medicine once each year with the varnish...but it's a personal preference.
ericflys	posted 02-04-2012 10:21 PM ET (US) On my boat I use Sitkens Teak product with great results. Its expensive, but its the best.
Basshole	posted 02-10-2012 12:59 PM ET (US) I have been using Sikkens Cetol for redwood fences and garage doors for years. It works much better than anything else I've tried. It really holds up well to constant sun exposure, and for a long time. I think I will use it for the wood on my Montauk when I refinish. Is the teak product Eric mentioned even available in CA?
Tohsgib	posted 02-10-2012 02:10 PM ET (US) I agree with the varnish(Sikkens Cetol) ESPECIALLY if you have canvas to protect it. If not follow Buckda's advice.
andygere	posted 02-10-2012 05:11 PM ET (US) Do you keep the boat covered? Do you fish? In my opinion, varnish is really too fragile for a boat that gets used hard, and once it's compromised, you have to remove it completely to get it looking good again. I have always oiled my teak, and if kept clean and covered, it keeps looking good for a long time. It's easy to touch up and reapply, and it's much more durable under feet, bait, big flopping fish coming over the rail and anything else you can throw at it. Whaler selected teak for it's natural durability, and because the boats are meant to be used. I appreciate the look of gleaming varnish, and don't find fault with those who go that route. Be advised though, that once you varnish, there's really no going back and it's a big commitment to keep it looking good. Neglected teak that's been oiled is relatively easy to bring back. Neglected teak that's been varnished? A nightmare. 1 vote for oiled teak here. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/ Fleet%20Week%20Cruise%202006/IMG_1919.jpg
Lionheart	posted 02-10-2012 06:32 PM ET (US) Should you consider West System Epoxy, there are three hardners....205,206 and 207. The 207 is used when you want to keep the natural colour of the wood.
ericflys	posted 02-10-2012 08:44 PM ET (US) The product I use is "Sikkens Cetol Marine Natural Teak". My boat is exposed everyday of the year, and it seems to hold up the best and is easy to apply yearly maintenance coats(highly reccomended).
vdbgroup	posted 02-12-2012 02:41 PM ET (US) Thanks All. Will stick with oiling the teak and try Sitkens product. Will get my varnish kicks on cleats and rod holders. BTW, boat is kept in dry storage used mostly for fishing. Will post some pics in a couple of months.