1962 Johnson 40-HP: Stopping Motor Without Ignition

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Author Topic:   1962 Johnson 40-HP: Stopping Motor Without Ignition

ULMike posted 03-14-2012 04:16 PM ET (US)
I'm a newbie at boat engines. I just got a 1962 Johnson 40-HP model RKL-24l. It does not have the ignition. I want to make sure it runs before I spend any money on one. If I start the motor manually, is there a killswitch? Or do I just have to unplug the spark plugs? Any help would be appreciated.
jimh posted 03-14-2012 08:39 PM ET (US)
Please clarify what you mean when you say the motor does not have ignition.
Binkster posted 03-14-2012 08:46 PM ET (US)
Evidently its a pull start motor. To shut it down just close the throttle and the motor will quit. If you try to unplug the spark plugs you might be in for quite a shock.
rich
Binkster posted 03-14-2012 08:49 PM ET (US)
Also those motors will start in gear. Make shure it is in nuetral before you pull the rope starter, or you may fly over the transom when it starts.
rich
pcrussell50 posted 03-15-2012 01:26 AM ET (US)
Binks--my '59 Super Seahorse 35hp had a mercury switch that would not allow it to be started in gear. That feature was removed sometime during the life of my motor. The mercury switch was still there, but the wires to it were cut.
-Peter
seahorse posted 03-15-2012 07:59 AM ET (US)
The RK series are the electric shift 40hp outboards. You need a control box with the correct switch and wiring to be able to put it into and out of gear. Make sure there is a belt driven generator attached to the motor and a rigging box with a regulator and starter solenoid in it, along with the associated wiring.
Don't buy it without the required electrics as it could cost more than the price of the motor to purchase them if you can find them.
Theron1033 posted 03-15-2012 11:01 AM ET (US)
does the outboard have a choke? i have a 1996 Suzuki 30hp outboard with elec start and crank start, i dodged the battery and the ignition. and to shut the engine down i just pull the choke out twice.
dg22 posted 03-15-2012 12:27 PM ET (US)
I'd first check the compression and if you decide to try starting it in a barrel of water, you could use the choke like Theron mentioned to stall the engine and make sure it's in neutral. If you want to see if it goes into gear, I'd check the gear lube in the lower unit first.
Since you are new to boat engines, I'd try and find an older mechanic in your area to see what it would cost to get it tuned up, clean the carbs, set the timing, and new spark plugs. You may want to put a new impeller and often the older lower units need a new seal unless it was well maintained by the previous owner. Just some things to think about.
jimh posted 03-15-2012 07:30 PM ET (US)
What does it mean to "dodge the battery"?
Binkster posted 03-15-2012 10:11 PM ET (US)
When you say the motor does not have an "ignition" what you mean is it does not have a wiring harness and an ignition switch. I did not check out the numbers and assumed it was pull start. You can find a wiring harness for your motor fairly easy on E-Bay or on the for sale forum on the AOMCI (Antique Outboard Motor Club) website probably for $50-125 depending on the condition. Some/all the wires may be brittle and need replacing, not a real big thing. Your motor might still have the switch needed to only start in nuetral but most have been disconnected or removed over the years. There is no such switch on my '58 Evinrude Lark 35 or my '61 V4 Evinrude Starflite 75. It can be an advantage to start in gear though if you happen to flood the motor. Just put it in gear open the throttle and turn the key. The advanced spark will fire it up. Just point the boat away from trouble first.
Starting the motor is not the most important first step. You need to check the compression first to see if is even worth buying at any price. The compression should be about 140 psi on each cylinder and not vary by more than 10 per cent. You can hot wire the motor to a battery and turn it over, or you can pull the remote starter. If the motor can match or come close to those numbers, it will run OK. Coils condensers and carb kits are easy to come by. If you are not able to check this motor out yourself and don't understand what I just explained don't get involved. If you do, buy it for maybe $200 with no wiring harness, join the local AOMCI chapter near you, make some friends and learn about these great old outboards. They are really simple.
But if you are only looking for a cheap way to get on the water this is not the way to go.
pcrussell50 posted 03-17-2012 01:41 AM ET (US)
Those old Evinrude "big twins" are amazing motors. Mine was a '59, and still is going strong, with only the most basic of care and maintenance. It was the first boat and motor I ever bought, back in the midsummer of '08. I changed the impeller and re-sealed the lower unit all by myself as a precaution and it was super easy. Not that it needed it--it was running fine. Her crowning moment was when we towed back in somebody with a much much newer, broken-down motor. All the parts needed to keep it running reliably are still available. EXCEPT for the electric shift versions. Unless you are looking for a show piece, I'd avoid the electric shift models. If you are looking for a daily use, workhorse get a manual shift model.
No man should ever buy a small boat and motor without first reading this:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/15/index.cfm
I am a whippersnapper not given to jingoistic, old cliches. I tune my race car's fuel injection system on a laptop. But that old motor taught me my lesson about American ingenuity and know-how, and "they don't build them like they used to". When the era of "Mad Max" comes around, motors like that will be the ones still running.
-Peter
Theron1033 posted 03-17-2012 07:22 PM ET (US)
sorry, what i meant by "dodge the battery and ignition" was to get rid of it. because my motor has both crank start and electric start i decided id rather not have a battery in my boat.

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Author	Topic: 1962 Johnson 40-HP: Stopping Motor Without Ignition
ULMike	posted 03-14-2012 04:16 PM ET (US) I'm a newbie at boat engines. I just got a 1962 Johnson 40-HP model RKL-24l. It does not have the ignition. I want to make sure it runs before I spend any money on one. If I start the motor manually, is there a killswitch? Or do I just have to unplug the spark plugs? Any help would be appreciated.
jimh	posted 03-14-2012 08:39 PM ET (US) Please clarify what you mean when you say the motor does not have ignition.
Binkster	posted 03-14-2012 08:46 PM ET (US) Evidently its a pull start motor. To shut it down just close the throttle and the motor will quit. If you try to unplug the spark plugs you might be in for quite a shock. rich
Binkster	posted 03-14-2012 08:49 PM ET (US) Also those motors will start in gear. Make shure it is in nuetral before you pull the rope starter, or you may fly over the transom when it starts. rich
pcrussell50	posted 03-15-2012 01:26 AM ET (US) Binks--my '59 Super Seahorse 35hp had a mercury switch that would not allow it to be started in gear. That feature was removed sometime during the life of my motor. The mercury switch was still there, but the wires to it were cut. -Peter
seahorse	posted 03-15-2012 07:59 AM ET (US) The RK series are the electric shift 40hp outboards. You need a control box with the correct switch and wiring to be able to put it into and out of gear. Make sure there is a belt driven generator attached to the motor and a rigging box with a regulator and starter solenoid in it, along with the associated wiring. Don't buy it without the required electrics as it could cost more than the price of the motor to purchase them if you can find them.
Theron1033	posted 03-15-2012 11:01 AM ET (US) does the outboard have a choke? i have a 1996 Suzuki 30hp outboard with elec start and crank start, i dodged the battery and the ignition. and to shut the engine down i just pull the choke out twice.
dg22	posted 03-15-2012 12:27 PM ET (US) I'd first check the compression and if you decide to try starting it in a barrel of water, you could use the choke like Theron mentioned to stall the engine and make sure it's in neutral. If you want to see if it goes into gear, I'd check the gear lube in the lower unit first. Since you are new to boat engines, I'd try and find an older mechanic in your area to see what it would cost to get it tuned up, clean the carbs, set the timing, and new spark plugs. You may want to put a new impeller and often the older lower units need a new seal unless it was well maintained by the previous owner. Just some things to think about.
jimh	posted 03-15-2012 07:30 PM ET (US) What does it mean to "dodge the battery"?
Binkster	posted 03-15-2012 10:11 PM ET (US) When you say the motor does not have an "ignition" what you mean is it does not have a wiring harness and an ignition switch. I did not check out the numbers and assumed it was pull start. You can find a wiring harness for your motor fairly easy on E-Bay or on the for sale forum on the AOMCI (Antique Outboard Motor Club) website probably for $50-125 depending on the condition. Some/all the wires may be brittle and need replacing, not a real big thing. Your motor might still have the switch needed to only start in nuetral but most have been disconnected or removed over the years. There is no such switch on my '58 Evinrude Lark 35 or my '61 V4 Evinrude Starflite 75. It can be an advantage to start in gear though if you happen to flood the motor. Just put it in gear open the throttle and turn the key. The advanced spark will fire it up. Just point the boat away from trouble first. Starting the motor is not the most important first step. You need to check the compression first to see if is even worth buying at any price. The compression should be about 140 psi on each cylinder and not vary by more than 10 per cent. You can hot wire the motor to a battery and turn it over, or you can pull the remote starter. If the motor can match or come close to those numbers, it will run OK. Coils condensers and carb kits are easy to come by. If you are not able to check this motor out yourself and don't understand what I just explained don't get involved. If you do, buy it for maybe $200 with no wiring harness, join the local AOMCI chapter near you, make some friends and learn about these great old outboards. They are really simple. But if you are only looking for a cheap way to get on the water this is not the way to go.
pcrussell50	posted 03-17-2012 01:41 AM ET (US) Those old Evinrude "big twins" are amazing motors. Mine was a '59, and still is going strong, with only the most basic of care and maintenance. It was the first boat and motor I ever bought, back in the midsummer of '08. I changed the impeller and re-sealed the lower unit all by myself as a precaution and it was super easy. Not that it needed it--it was running fine. Her crowning moment was when we towed back in somebody with a much much newer, broken-down motor. All the parts needed to keep it running reliably are still available. EXCEPT for the electric shift versions. Unless you are looking for a show piece, I'd avoid the electric shift models. If you are looking for a daily use, workhorse get a manual shift model. No man should ever buy a small boat and motor without first reading this: http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/15/index.cfm I am a whippersnapper not given to jingoistic, old cliches. I tune my race car's fuel injection system on a laptop. But that old motor taught me my lesson about American ingenuity and know-how, and "they don't build them like they used to". When the era of "Mad Max" comes around, motors like that will be the ones still running. -Peter
Theron1033	posted 03-17-2012 07:22 PM ET (US) sorry, what i meant by "dodge the battery and ignition" was to get rid of it. because my motor has both crank start and electric start i decided id rather not have a battery in my boat.