posted 03-19-2012 01:48 PM ET (US)            

I would start with a firm putty knife. This would be my main tool for the bulk of the work. Wrap it with your sandpaper and work it along the surfaces of the slats. The firm steel blade will level the variations in the grain. Give special care to the edges and only do them with finer papers. If I come across an area that needs a little detail work, I will switch to a narrow flexible putty knife that can be slightly bent to concentrate pressure on the area that is in need of the extra work.

As to Jeff’s suggestion about acrylic (or Plexiglas), I often use Plexiglas as a sandpaper backer because it can be shaped to fit into whatever tight area I am working in or around. I suspect Jeff is using the plastic as a backer to the sandpaper just like I am. I just find it more comfortable for me to hold the handle of the putty knife in my hand and extend my index and middle finger forward onto the blade to both apply directional pressure and bind the paper to itself and the blade. I am confident Jeff’s use of acrylic will also produce completely acceptable results.

posted 03-19-2012 07:23 PM ET (US)            

I take a scrap 1/8" piece of acrylic (any strong sub-straight can do) and usually trim it to about 2" wide. With that you are then able to wrap sand paper over the end and hold it with your fingers getting into the tight areas.

The other options is to get a roll of sticky back sanding pads and use them. You can take one off and usually trim it in half.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 2012-03-19_15-12-53_989.jpg

Then align one side to the edge of the acrylic, and stick it down.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 2012-03-19_15-13-38_875.jpg

Then fold it over the acrylic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 2012-03-19_15-12-23_932.jpg

finally trim the side(s) with the extra materail(s).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 2012-03-19_15-11-23_728.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 2012-03-19_15-11-33_620.jpg

This will make fast work of getting those tight areas sanded down.

Before oiling I was just go over the piece with a tack cloth or use an air compressor to blow that part off.

For a good oil only use a furniture grade product. Behlen or Watco are my preferred choices.

Behlen can be found at Rockler Woodworking stores
http://preview.tinyurl.com/Behlenoil

Watco can be found at Lowes as well as Rockler and Woodcraft Woodworking stores.
http://preview.tinyurl.com/Watcooil

For me it usually takes 8-12 coatings to get a good finish that lasts a few years.

Process for bare wood

First 4 coats should be done every 15 minutes with a Jersey-knit rag. The rag should be soaked and leaving a heavy coating each time. Let the wood sit for an hour.

Second 4 coats should be done every 1 hour with a Jersey-knit rag. The rag should be soaked and leaving a heavy coating each time. Let the wood sit overnight in temps above 50 degrees. In the morning using a heavy terri-cloth rag remove any oil still on the surface.

Last four coats should be done every 2 hours with a Jersey-knit rag. The rag should have a medium amount of oil on it just leaving a fine film of oil on each coating. After the last coating let the wood sit for 2-4 + hours. Go back after that time with a heavy terri-cloth and begin to work the excess oil on the surface of the wood to and matte - semi gloss shine by a heavy back and forth polishing action. Let the parts cure for a day before getting the wet. If they get wet before cured they will have water marks in the finish. If you can let them bake in the hot sun that is the best for curing.

With this process my teak on my 22 outrage stayed in the matte - semi gloss state for nearly the entire summer under a mooring cover.

To redo the teak may require a light sanding of 400 - 600 grit paper. I used wet sand paper and wet sanded the wood and finish. Sometime I just recoated over the finish as is. I applied one heavy coat and let it sit for a half hour and finished with a lighter one and let it sit for an hour or two then polished the remaining oil back to this type of finish.

Here is a photo of the finish I get after polishing the final coat of oil.

[url]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4693.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4688.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4689.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4697.jpg

posted 03-19-2012 07:27 PM ET (US)            

url]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4687.jpg[/url]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4693.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4697.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4689.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/ 22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4691.jpg

posted 03-19-2012 08:23 PM ET (US)            

Raising the fibers of wood with water is generally used as a pre-finishing step prior to a person using an initial coat of water-soluble dye or water base finish. Wetting dry wood with water causes the surface fibers to swell slightly and when the wood air-dries, those surface fibers prone to raising will dry in a raised orientation where they can be sheared off by a very quick and light sanding with fine sandpaper. Most people tend to overdo it and expose new fibers prone to rising when the water base dye or finish is then applied.

If I were working with mahogany in a marine environment I would consider raising the grain based upon the finish schedule and desired sheen. If I were going to use potassium dichromate as part of the finishing schedule, I would also raise the grain prior to its application, but that is another whole thread all in itself.

Teak that is going to be oiled lightly or receive little future maintenance might benefit from a grain raising to minimize future grain raising when the oil content in the wood reduces with exposure to the natural environment. I would also consider raising the grain if my goal is to build a higher sheen on the teak. If I planned to keep teak well-oiled and prefer a lower more natural luster, I would probably omit the grain raising.

posted 03-20-2012 06:17 PM ET (US)            

OSPREY 1

posted 03-20-2012 08:45 PM ET (US)            

WATCO teak oil is not really what the name suggests. Despite its name, it is really nothing more than one of many formulations of wiping varnishes commonly available to consumers. It’s not really an ideal product for exterior use. There is probably nothing more confusing to a beginning woodworker than trying to understand formulations of finishes.

To help you understand some of the basics of finish formulations, I did a quick search for an online article from one of the finishing gurus, Bob Flexner. I hope you find it informative:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/ oil-finishes-their-history-and-use

I had previously saved the following information on teak refinishing, but don’t know the source:

For many applications on a boat or yacht, the best finish for teak is no finish at all. This is especially true of teak decks or steps. Teak also contains silica which makes it a great non-skid surface when wet. Teak decks are unequaled as a surface to walk on when the decks are wet with waves or rain. Putting any type of finish on such a deck simply ruins it and destroys this desirable characteristic. Teak decks do, however, weather with age and turn silvery gray. This is also desirable up to a point, but all deck decks require sanding ever so often to bring back the natural light brown color and prevent deep grooves from being caused by this weathering. This sanding will over the course of many years result in the need to replace the deck, but if it was thick enough to begin with, such replacements should only be necessary once or twice in the life of the yacht.

Teak is used in many other places on boats besides decks or steps, though, and while some people also leave these wood parts bare, most prefer some type of finish to highlight the natural beauty of the wood. Rub rails, covering boards, door and window trim and hatches are all areas where finished teak is desirable. The simplest means of finishing these teak parts is by rubbing them down periodically with oil to supplement the natural oils in the wood and prevent drying out. Many boat owners swear by oiled teak and would use no other finish. But oiling teak still does not produce a highly finished look. Most owners would prefer their teak to have a high gloss finish that is often referred to in marine woodworking as "brightwork."

Brightwork is the art of finishing wood with varnish or clear polyurethane. The preferred finish for brightwork is spar varnish that is formulated to block ultraviolet rays from the sun. The enemy of brightwork is not water, but rather the sun, which can cook off a fine finish and reduce it to a peeling mess in just a matter of months. This is why it pays to buy the best spar varnish available. Cheaper finishes are not worth the effort required to put them on. Spar varnish on your exterior teak requires a commitment. You can't simply varnish your wood and then forget about it. Instead, you must go back at least twice a year and lightly sand the finish and apply two more coats. These coats are "sacrificial" and will break down in the sun but protect the underlying coats which should have been put on 5 to 7 deep when you first finished your wood.

Some boat owners have sought out lazier methods of achieving brightwork, such as by applying clear polyurethane instead of varnish. It lasts longer than varnish, but when it does break down as it eventually will, it is much more difficult to remove for refinishing. Another varnish substitute commonly seen on teak is called Cetol. Cetol is much easier to apply and lasts longer than varnish, but it turns your teak an ugly orange-brown color that is both unnatural and mostly opaque, hiding the natural beauty of the wood grain.

The traditional way to achieve a brightwork finish on teak is with spar varnish. Stick to good spar varnish and stay on a maintenance schedule and your teak will gleam. Leave your decks and steps unfinished, but keep them sanded when needed, and they will never let you down as an unparalleled non-skid surface.

Before I dig into the details, we need to know why we need a different varnish for outdoor applications. Any wood stored outside is going to be exposed to a wide range of temperatures and weather, as well as a good dose of damaging UV rays. These elements serve to break down the finish over time. Furthermore, changes in humidity cause the wood to expand and contract, and a standard indoor finish would simply crack and deteriorate under these conditions. Spar varnishes are typically designed to not only protect the wood, but also give it the flexibility and UV protection it needs to last for years. And the name “spar varnish” comes from the boating world; where the long wooden poles that support the sails are known as spars. So a spar varnish needs to be one that can withstand the rigorous conditions of seafaring life.

Nearly all modern varnish contains a few basic components: oil, resin, and a solvent. By modifying the types and amounts of these components, we can create a whole range of mixtures that vary in price and are specifically suited for either indoor or outdoor use. Fortunately for the finishing student, there are only so many ingredients that manufacturers have to choose from. And this makes it easier to see beyond the marketing jargon to deduce how a particular finish will behave. Here are the most common recipe ingredients:

Oils – Linseed Oil or Tung Oil
Resins – Alkyd, Phenolic, or Polyurethane
Solvents – Mineral Spirits, Naptha, or Paint Thinner

When a varnish is made, the ratio of oil to resin can have a dramatic effect on the way the varnish will behave. For instance, using a small amount of oil and a large amount of resin will produce a very hard but somewhat brittle finish. Obviously, this is not suitable for outdoor applications since we need an outdoor finish to be flexible. So what makes more sense is to create what is known as a “long-oil varnish”, that is, a formulation that contains a greater percentage of oil. The extra oil results in a softer, more flexible finish that will not crack when the wood expands and contracts.

The most common oil used to make varnish is linseed oil. Its lower cost makes it the most practical choice for both indoor and outdoor formulations. But tung oil is actually better for outdoor use. Higher quality oil equates to a higher quality varnish, and thus a higher price tag. As a result, the best high-end marine varnishes will be made with tung oil instead of linseed oil.

Generally speaking, phenolic resins are best-suited for outdoor use. But that doesn’t mean every spar varnish is made with phenolic resins. Much like the situation with oils, the better product is also the most expensive. So you’ll find plenty of outdoor formulations using alkyd and urethane resins. A popular finish like Helmsman Spar Urethane contains urethane modified alkyd resins. A higher quality finish like Epifanes contains phenolic modified alkyd resins. There are many other brands of outdoor oil-based varnish, but the ingredients list is usually much more revealing than the words on the front of the can.

Most spar/marine varnishes will contain other important additives, such as UV blockers, that give the wood that extra bit of protection it needs in harsh conditions. UV light will not only damage the wood, but also the finish itself, eventually resulting in finish failure. So it’s a good idea to use a finish containing UV-blockers for any outdoor project.

Generally-speaking, my preferred outdoor varnish would be a long-oil varnish made with tung oil and at least some phenolic resins and UV inhibitors. The brand I reach for is Epifanes.

posted 03-20-2012 08:59 PM ET (US)            

quote:

---

WATCO teak oil is not really what the name suggests. Despite its name, it is really nothing more than one of many formulations of wiping varnishes commonly available to consumers.

---

posted 03-21-2012 07:58 AM ET (US)            

Thanks so much for the teak/sanding/oil information.

I will have to print this all out and read it. I did use the putty knife with sandpaper folded over that Jeff recomended. I can see that this is going to take some time.

Another question, when I'm ready to do the RPS how will I handle the inside. Will I need to take the RPS appart so I can sand or should I just do the outside and leave the inside alone.

posted 03-21-2012 09:22 PM ET (US)            

The product was used on vessels that were under a mooring cover but stay outside in the heat and sun.

The Behlen product worked just as good as far as keeping the wood looking coated and not dry but, it did not leave the luster the Watco did.

Others here use Watco as well and have had good success with it.
[http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/018724.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000004.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/008536.html
And there are others.

posted 03-21-2012 10:31 PM ET (US)            

My preference for a product like Epifanes over WATCO is because of the use of linseed oil in WATCO's formulation. Linseed oil is well known to be a food for numerous molds common in the marine environment. If the finish will be regularly maintained, then it is unlikely mold will take hold in the finish. However, I think we all have seen neglected varnished exterior wood with black spots at one time or another. That mold got a foothold feeding on the linseed oil in the finish the manufacturer used. Once the mold gets a foothold, it will quickly multiply and spread and begin to feed on the wood when the nutritional value of the linseed oil in the finish is exhausted. If ignored, the finish dries, cracks, and eventually fails and delaminates leaving the wood rone to decay. This is more common in Mahogany than Teak (because of Teak's higher natural resistance to mold) but it should still be a concern to boaters.

A tung-based long-oil phenolic varnish with heavy uv and mold inhibitors will require less maintenance than a linseed oil based product like WATCO. For some people this will be a better solution. For others, a more routine regimen with WATCO will provide a level of satisfaction that may be preferable.

I personally prefer the less is more approach. For me, less maintenance and upkeep means more satisfaction.

Osprey,