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  Katama Mills Top and Wooden Side Clamps

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Author Topic:   Katama Mills Top and Wooden Side Clamps
Camuyano posted 04-02-2012 03:00 PM ET (US)   Profile for Camuyano   Send Email to Camuyano  
Hello:

After a few years of being non-whaler owner, I am back in "the club" this time with a 1970 Katama that has undergone a partial restoration (not to original condition but functional). One of my first additions will be a Mills sun top that I just received last week. The instructions call for mounting the hinges on the top edge of the wood clamps on either side that, on my boat, are MIA. This brings me to my questions:

1) Has anyone mounted the Mills top WITHOUT these clamps? What are the drawbacks and/or potential disasters that could result from doing this? I have not looked to see if the top could be properly supported in this configuration but my guess is that height would be an issue since the Katama top is already lower than the Montauk one. (I wish I would have searched this site more thoroughly for "Katama Mills top" since there are several posts on this issue and some have decided to go with the Montauk top for the Katama. When I test rode the boat, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that one could drive standing up relatively comfortably; however, this may not be an option with the lower top.)

2) Is there any purpose to these clamps other than for mounting the top? (Sorry if this is a stupid question or has been answered here before!) It seems like on the sport models these clamps hold the seats and console. Is it the same for the Katama? I am not sure if the PO re-attached the original console as it came from the factory but it seems pretty secure without the clamps in place. Also, the seat is from a 16 Outrage or something like that so it rests on and is bolted to the "ledge" to either side.

3) If the clamps must be in place, does anyone have templates, measurements and/or diagrams that could help me reproduce and re-mount these? Are there reproduction parts out there? I have searched the web but can only find complete interiors for the more common sport models. These seem like a relatively easy part to make but I would like to get the proportions right so they look original and do not interfere with the factory rails, which I do plan to reinstall at some point.

4) Can the clamps be installed without removing the console? As I said, the boat is functional and I would like to enjoy it this season. I'm already going a bit overboard this Spring by painting the hull on my very limited free time so I would like to avoid other projects that could potentially put the boat out of commission for a while. Can anyone recommend a "temporary" installation that would not screw things up too badly?

Any information and/or suggestions will be highly appreciated.

Thanks,
Camuyano
Dahlgren, VA

Camuyano posted 04-12-2012 02:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Camuyano  Send Email to Camuyano     
In case anyone has the same issue in the future, I will reply to my own thread:

I called W.J. Mills and they said the reason for the wooden "cleats" is because the wood on this model is bonded into the side of the hull and not the horizontal "ledge" on which the hinge rests. Therefore, you need the cleats which attach on the side and not the bottom. They also said they could send me replacement cleats for around $30 with shipping. Even though the guy said they were identical to the factory ones, I was doubtful due to the price. Indeed, they look like miniature versions about six inches in length and one inch tall that mount just under the hinge. (Perhaps some boats were equipped this way from the factory but I have never seen it.) I will use the small cleats for now but may still try to find or make full size versions since I suspect I will need more headroom under the top.

Later,
Camuyano

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