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Author Topic:   New 16.5 ft Project Hull

robrcr posted 04-16-2012 12:10 AM ET (US)
I've been searching for a classic 16-foot or 17-foot Boston Whaler boat hull to use as a blank slate for a long time. I finally found a 1968 model that's been sitting at a boatyard for years. This one has been neglected for years as it looks like the last guy added a console made of plywood and did a bad paint job on the whole boat. My goal is not a "restoration" to original but just a renovation. I plan to document the whole process on my website (see for pics). Of course I'm already comparing my engine options.
Being a new Whaler owner I have some questions you guys can maybe help me out with:
My anchor is not even close to fitting in the anchor locker, yet alone with line. Do you guys just use really small anchors?
Do you ever use the center bow "cleat" (the one that is directly forward of the anchor locker)? I would think to use the real cleats on the port or starboard side as needed.
I'm having a heck of a time stripping the old paint off with my palm sander. Any suggestions?
I plan on removing the stainless bow and side rails, which are are great condition except for the bases which are corroded. I also plan on removing the captain's seat-- this one is original but in bad condition although still restorable. What do you think these would fetch price wise?
Thanks for any input.
skred posted 04-16-2012 03:01 PM ET (US)
I've found that your size Whaler doesn't need a really large anchor. Best bet might be a Danforth fluke-type. Very light relative to holding power The size I used on my former Montauk fit easily in the anchor locker.
All the Whalers I have seen (pre-1990) don't have cleats on the sides at all. I always used the Norman pin (you called it a center bow cleat) to tie off the anchor line, and ran it through the guides on the bow light assembly.
"Peel Away" is very effective at removing most, if not all bottom paint. Not an easy job, for sure. Finish up with light sanding and buffing. This assumes the bottom was not "scuffed" as a prep for painting, of course.
Interestingly, I just posted a "Want to Buy" here for bow and/or side rails. We should talk...
Tom Hemphill posted 04-16-2012 05:30 PM ET (US)
I am using Franmar Soy Strip to remove bottom paint on my old 16-foot Whaler. I highly recommend it over sanding.
robrcr posted 04-17-2012 08:56 AM ET (US)
I always wondered what the Norman pin was called. Now I know.
Thanks for the suggestions on paint remover. I basically have to remove all the paint on the boat as it is chipped and cracked over the whole hull inside and out.
I'm still debating whether to keep the rails but am leaning toward no. I figure they will get in the way every time I go diving or want to get off the bow. However my wife says to keep them for safety so you know how that goes.
skred posted 04-17-2012 11:13 AM ET (US)
I understand the wife-factor... If you happen to somehow override the protests, e-mail me with specifics....
skred posted 04-20-2012 04:34 PM ET (US)
About my post above: Please disregard... I found rails...

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Author	Topic: New 16.5 ft Project Hull
robrcr	posted 04-16-2012 12:10 AM ET (US) I've been searching for a classic 16-foot or 17-foot Boston Whaler boat hull to use as a blank slate for a long time. I finally found a 1968 model that's been sitting at a boatyard for years. This one has been neglected for years as it looks like the last guy added a console made of plywood and did a bad paint job on the whole boat. My goal is not a "restoration" to original but just a renovation. I plan to document the whole process on my website (see for pics). Of course I'm already comparing my engine options. Being a new Whaler owner I have some questions you guys can maybe help me out with: My anchor is not even close to fitting in the anchor locker, yet alone with line. Do you guys just use really small anchors? Do you ever use the center bow "cleat" (the one that is directly forward of the anchor locker)? I would think to use the real cleats on the port or starboard side as needed. I'm having a heck of a time stripping the old paint off with my palm sander. Any suggestions? I plan on removing the stainless bow and side rails, which are are great condition except for the bases which are corroded. I also plan on removing the captain's seat-- this one is original but in bad condition although still restorable. What do you think these would fetch price wise? Thanks for any input.
skred	posted 04-16-2012 03:01 PM ET (US) I've found that your size Whaler doesn't need a really large anchor. Best bet might be a Danforth fluke-type. Very light relative to holding power The size I used on my former Montauk fit easily in the anchor locker. All the Whalers I have seen (pre-1990) don't have cleats on the sides at all. I always used the Norman pin (you called it a center bow cleat) to tie off the anchor line, and ran it through the guides on the bow light assembly. "Peel Away" is very effective at removing most, if not all bottom paint. Not an easy job, for sure. Finish up with light sanding and buffing. This assumes the bottom was not "scuffed" as a prep for painting, of course. Interestingly, I just posted a "Want to Buy" here for bow and/or side rails. We should talk...
Tom Hemphill	posted 04-16-2012 05:30 PM ET (US) I am using Franmar Soy Strip to remove bottom paint on my old 16-foot Whaler. I highly recommend it over sanding.
robrcr	posted 04-17-2012 08:56 AM ET (US) I always wondered what the Norman pin was called. Now I know. Thanks for the suggestions on paint remover. I basically have to remove all the paint on the boat as it is chipped and cracked over the whole hull inside and out. I'm still debating whether to keep the rails but am leaning toward no. I figure they will get in the way every time I go diving or want to get off the bow. However my wife says to keep them for safety so you know how that goes.
skred	posted 04-17-2012 11:13 AM ET (US) I understand the wife-factor... If you happen to somehow override the protests, e-mail me with specifics....
skred	posted 04-20-2012 04:34 PM ET (US) About my post above: Please disregard... I found rails...