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Author Topic:   1991 200 Yamaha rerigging trouble

6992WHALER posted 05-21-2012 07:52 PM ET (US)
I decided to replace my worn out rigging hose on my 1991 Yamaha 200s. After replacing all the hose and reconnecting all the wires and hoses (only did one engine, the port). I find that when I turn the key I have nothing. The trim is dead as well. I have power at the starter.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
jimh posted 05-21-2012 08:58 PM ET (US)
Look for a blown fuse under the cowling. The power from the battery to the remote controls flows through the fuse. It may have blown if you inadvertently left the battery switch ON while working on the wiring.
6992WHALER posted 05-21-2012 09:01 PM ET (US)
I will check, but I had the battery disconnected from the cables.
6992WHALER posted 05-21-2012 09:19 PM ET (US)
I did find a blown 20-Ampere fuse. It does not blow if I disconnect the big back 9 pin plug.
So at least I have it narrowed down to that set of wires.
I think I owe you a beer Jim.
6992WHALER posted 05-22-2012 05:32 PM ET (US)
When I disconnected the big 10-pin (not 9) wiring harness plug, I must have bent a couple of the pins. So when I put it back together the pins must have come in contact with other pins and shorted out.
I straightened all the pins and this time when I put it back together everything works.
Thanks Jim, your fuse clue really helped me narrow down the search. It only took three 20-Ampere fuses to find the bad plug. Beer on me next time I see you.
John
jimh posted 05-26-2012 09:32 AM ET (US)
John--I am pleased to hear that you resolved the electrical problem. I believe there is a tendency among boaters to be a bit indelicate with electrical connectors and the mating of them.
When mating electrical connectors one has to be gentle, and it often happens that a bit of lubrication is needed to allow insertion. If the connectors have rubber bodies, application of some alcohol to the mating surfaces will make insertion and mating much easier. The alcohol will eventually evaporate, and no residue will be left behind. One caution: look for alcohol that is mostly alcohol. Some containers of "rubbing alcohol" are really only a 50:50 mix of alcohol and water.
If the connectors have a thermoplastic shell or body, a very delicate and very light application of a lubricant grease to the areas of the receptacle into which the plug must fit can ease insertion. If the circuitry is low voltage, you can use almost any sort of grease. You do not need to use the $50-per-ounce dielectric grease that is sold for very high voltage applications like spark ignition wires. Plain ol' marine grease will work; use just a very tiny amount. The grease is an non-conductor, and it must not be applied to the electrical contacts themselves. The grease is only for the connector body.
jimh posted 05-26-2012 09:33 AM ET (US)
Also, I very much am looking forward to enjoying that beer. I'd like to drink in the cockpit of HOLLY MARIE while we are at anchor in a remote wilderness harbor this summer in latitude 46-North.
K Albus posted 05-26-2012 09:41 PM ET (US)
Are you guys gonna need to some alone time in MacGregor Bay?
6992WHALER posted 05-27-2012 10:48 AM ET (US)
Kevin, I will bring one for you too. Just don't walk on the salt shaker drive to get it.
K Albus posted 05-27-2012 02:46 PM ET (US)
I'm not coming anywhere near your boat if Jim is going to be talking about lubing and mating things.
6992WHALER posted 05-28-2012 10:04 AM ET (US)
Kevin, I thought you said you would always have my back.
jimh posted 05-28-2012 10:55 AM ET (US)
Kevin--If you want to join John and me in the cockpit while we have a beer, you will have to bring something salty. I like salted cashews. I also like India Pale Ale.
K Albus posted 05-28-2012 01:52 PM ET (US)
I'm just glad you didn't ask me to bring lemons.
6992WHALER posted 05-29-2012 01:00 PM ET (US)
I don't think I am going to make it as a boat rigger.
It took me about 5 hours to do each engine. I needed an additional hour to figure out my mistake on the Port engine.
The job cost me about $18.00 for the hose.
I was amazed at how much stuff is inside the rigging hoses:
Fuel line, oil line, two battery cables, one 10 wire cable, two 4 wire cables, one 2 wire cable, and the two control cables. The port has one more wire that charges the house battery.
The hardest part was figuring out how long to make each hose.
The old hoses were to broken down to use to measure the correct length. On both engines I made the hose too long and had to just keep cutting it down to make it work.
The plugs are to big to all be pulled at once so you have to pull all the components one at a time.
Makes you think that rigging a new outboard with flyby wire and a NMEA2000 network would be a lot easier.

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/johndraby/New%20Rigging%20hose/
Russ 13 posted 05-31-2012 12:14 AM ET (US)
Nice Job!!
I just re-hosed my Yamaha 225, indeed labor intensive.
I had trouble with the rigging tube connection at the engine cowling, falling off the gromet.
Yamaha makes a hard plastic piece that takes the place of the soft rubber one.
It has grooves that the rigging tube threads into, this Yamaha piece solved my problem..
It is Important to keep the fuel & oil hoses pinch free in the maze of wires run through the rigging tubes.
6992WHALER posted 05-31-2012 09:39 AM ET (US)
Thanks Russ 13
I am a little concerned that something might have gotten pinched or kinked. I am hoping that when she goes in the water everything works correctly.

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Author	Topic: 1991 200 Yamaha rerigging trouble
6992WHALER	posted 05-21-2012 07:52 PM ET (US) I decided to replace my worn out rigging hose on my 1991 Yamaha 200s. After replacing all the hose and reconnecting all the wires and hoses (only did one engine, the port). I find that when I turn the key I have nothing. The trim is dead as well. I have power at the starter. Any ideas would be appreciated.
jimh	posted 05-21-2012 08:58 PM ET (US) Look for a blown fuse under the cowling. The power from the battery to the remote controls flows through the fuse. It may have blown if you inadvertently left the battery switch ON while working on the wiring.
6992WHALER	posted 05-21-2012 09:01 PM ET (US) I will check, but I had the battery disconnected from the cables.
6992WHALER	posted 05-21-2012 09:19 PM ET (US) I did find a blown 20-Ampere fuse. It does not blow if I disconnect the big back 9 pin plug. So at least I have it narrowed down to that set of wires. I think I owe you a beer Jim.
6992WHALER	posted 05-22-2012 05:32 PM ET (US) When I disconnected the big 10-pin (not 9) wiring harness plug, I must have bent a couple of the pins. So when I put it back together the pins must have come in contact with other pins and shorted out. I straightened all the pins and this time when I put it back together everything works. Thanks Jim, your fuse clue really helped me narrow down the search. It only took three 20-Ampere fuses to find the bad plug. Beer on me next time I see you. John
jimh	posted 05-26-2012 09:32 AM ET (US) John--I am pleased to hear that you resolved the electrical problem. I believe there is a tendency among boaters to be a bit indelicate with electrical connectors and the mating of them. When mating electrical connectors one has to be gentle, and it often happens that a bit of lubrication is needed to allow insertion. If the connectors have rubber bodies, application of some alcohol to the mating surfaces will make insertion and mating much easier. The alcohol will eventually evaporate, and no residue will be left behind. One caution: look for alcohol that is mostly alcohol. Some containers of "rubbing alcohol" are really only a 50:50 mix of alcohol and water. If the connectors have a thermoplastic shell or body, a very delicate and very light application of a lubricant grease to the areas of the receptacle into which the plug must fit can ease insertion. If the circuitry is low voltage, you can use almost any sort of grease. You do not need to use the $50-per-ounce dielectric grease that is sold for very high voltage applications like spark ignition wires. Plain ol' marine grease will work; use just a very tiny amount. The grease is an non-conductor, and it must not be applied to the electrical contacts themselves. The grease is only for the connector body.
jimh	posted 05-26-2012 09:33 AM ET (US) Also, I very much am looking forward to enjoying that beer. I'd like to drink in the cockpit of HOLLY MARIE while we are at anchor in a remote wilderness harbor this summer in latitude 46-North.
K Albus	posted 05-26-2012 09:41 PM ET (US) Are you guys gonna need to some alone time in MacGregor Bay?
6992WHALER	posted 05-27-2012 10:48 AM ET (US) Kevin, I will bring one for you too. Just don't walk on the salt shaker drive to get it.
K Albus	posted 05-27-2012 02:46 PM ET (US) I'm not coming anywhere near your boat if Jim is going to be talking about lubing and mating things.
6992WHALER	posted 05-28-2012 10:04 AM ET (US) Kevin, I thought you said you would always have my back.
jimh	posted 05-28-2012 10:55 AM ET (US) Kevin--If you want to join John and me in the cockpit while we have a beer, you will have to bring something salty. I like salted cashews. I also like India Pale Ale.
K Albus	posted 05-28-2012 01:52 PM ET (US) I'm just glad you didn't ask me to bring lemons.
6992WHALER	posted 05-29-2012 01:00 PM ET (US) I don't think I am going to make it as a boat rigger. It took me about 5 hours to do each engine. I needed an additional hour to figure out my mistake on the Port engine. The job cost me about $18.00 for the hose. I was amazed at how much stuff is inside the rigging hoses: Fuel line, oil line, two battery cables, one 10 wire cable, two 4 wire cables, one 2 wire cable, and the two control cables. The port has one more wire that charges the house battery. The hardest part was figuring out how long to make each hose. The old hoses were to broken down to use to measure the correct length. On both engines I made the hose too long and had to just keep cutting it down to make it work. The plugs are to big to all be pulled at once so you have to pull all the components one at a time. Makes you think that rigging a new outboard with flyby wire and a NMEA2000 network would be a lot easier. http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/johndraby/New%20Rigging%20hose/
Russ 13	posted 05-31-2012 12:14 AM ET (US) Nice Job!! I just re-hosed my Yamaha 225, indeed labor intensive. I had trouble with the rigging tube connection at the engine cowling, falling off the gromet. Yamaha makes a hard plastic piece that takes the place of the soft rubber one. It has grooves that the rigging tube threads into, this Yamaha piece solved my problem.. It is Important to keep the fuel & oil hoses pinch free in the maze of wires run through the rigging tubes.
6992WHALER	posted 05-31-2012 09:39 AM ET (US) Thanks Russ 13 I am a little concerned that something might have gotten pinched or kinked. I am hoping that when she goes in the water everything works correctly.